Gilbert the adventurer: or, Travels in distant countries

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I 600065377X

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^' THE I/'

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IflMSM.SEi

GILBERT

fjft J^Irbtntum :

OB,

TRAVELS IN DISTANT COUNTRIE&

Edited by PETER PARLEY.

WITH ILLUSTl^TIOITS.

LONDON:
G. ROUTLEDGE & CO., FARRINGDON STREET.

1856.

I. m> iDWAXDi, niBTiis, oumoi rauir.

PREFACE.

" Peteb Pabley" is a name rendered welcome to the
youthful reader by many pleasing associations, and
one that affords a rich promise of instruction and
delight. In many charming works he has made him-
self the guide and the companion of the young ; and,
whilst administering to their gratification, he has
stored their minds with useful knowledge. To impart
information in a winning manner is not a very easy
task, yet our Mend " Peter Parley" has accomplished
this with complete success.

" Gilbert the Adventurer" may safely trust his little
barque to the tide of public , opinion, under such dis-
tinguished guidance. Tet he possesses many inde-
pendent claims to general support. He has not only
travelled through lands that lie far from the common
route and the beaten track, but he has carefully ob-
served the peculiarities of scenery, productions, and
climate of the different coimtries through which he
passed, as well as of the manners and customs of their
inhabitants. To some, his incidents of travel may
appear marvellous. It would, however, be unjust to
confine the bold adventurer witlain t\i^ xv-axro^ \vsks^'?^
of our experience, A certain iii8eiisib\M\>y \»o ^asv^^^

IV PEEFACE.

will carry a man through many perils ; and were there
not very extraordinary escapes, enterprise and adven-
ture would lose half their attraction. The glimpse that
Gilbert gives the reader of a world of which little is
known, the strange people he brings upon the stage,
and the stranger customs which he so quaintly describes,
render his book both entertaining and instructive. The
useful information the reader gleans from a perusal of
these pages will be treasured up and remembered,
when the lighter vein of narrative that served to
awaken his curiosity is forgotten.

Amusement thus becomes the handmaid of know-
ledge ; she cannot occupy a more honourable position ;
it is one which she holds in this book ; and this
constitutes its chief recommendation, and its sure pass-
port to a large circle of grateful admirers.

London, February, 1856.

CHAPTER I.

The Beginning. — My Native Town. — ^My Birth and Christening.^*
First Start in Business. — The Clock Business. — A Crash. —
Deliberations. — Start for China. — ^Bring up at Singapore.

As I am about to give an account of my adventures
in foreign parts, and as I am a very plain-spoken sort
of a man, it seems proper that I should begin at the
beginning, and tell how I came into the world, and how
I got my education. This will, I hope, furnish a good
excuse for any want of skill in the manner of telling my
story.

Several miles north of the city of New Haven, on
the old road to Middletown, there is a broad, straight
street, running over a sandy plain. It is decorated on
each side with a row of Lombardy poplar trees, most of
which are dead, half way down. Some are reduced to
mere stumps, but they serve to make up the row. The
houses are few and far between, mostly of a brown com-
plexion, though some half-dozen were painted white in
their early days.

Now, it was in the year 1827, on the 4th day of July,
that the aforesaid poplar trees were planted by the
patriotic and public-spirited citizens of Sandy Plain;
and on that very 4th of July, as I have been credibly
informed, I was bom. Of course, coming into the
world in the midst of such stirring events, my mother
expected great things of me, and by the time I was six
years old, she had put it strongly into my head tlx^ "L
was destined to make a figure in the 'woiVdi. ^^^i-*^ ^or^^ax

B

I

2 MY BIETH AJSTD CHEISTEITINa.

trees grew apace, and so did I. Not to go into parti-
culars, I may say, that — ^by the time I was ten years
old — in running a race, flying kites, snaring quails, and
smoking out wood-chucks, I went before any of my
mates.

My family name was Gilbert, and I received the
baptismal title of Joseph Head, after my grandfather by
the mother's side. School-boys are always full of fun,
and it was not long before my companions turned Jo
Head into Oo-ahead — a title which stuck to me very
readily, as it was supposed to suit my somewhat heedless
and adventurous character. As I grew up, it became,
in fact, my principal title, and, by the time I was
sixteen, my name was turned round, and the whole
neighbourhood called me Gilbert Go-ahead,

Thus impressed by early teaching, and by the very
name I bore, with the idea that I was to do something
in the world, I set forth from Sandy Plain, stocked with
the arts of reading, writing, and arithmetic, and, big
with expectation, commenced my adventurous career.
I was first engaged as a porter in a store on Long
Wharf, in New Haven. My employers ran a line of
packets to Charleston, South Carolina ; and, at the end
of six months, I made a trip in one of their vessels,
called "Ben Beecher," having in my especial charge two
thousand com brooms, one hundred barrels of potatoes,
one hundred and sixty strings of onions, two gross of
wooden buckets, nine pigs, and a three-year-old colt,
together with a general cargo of Yankee notions.

I managed the business greatly to the satisfaction of

the several owners of the articles. I had no difficulty

in getting employment of this kind, and, in the course

of a few months, made three similar trips to Charleston.

J" nex^ went as supercargo to the West Indies, onboard

7IBST 8TAST IS BrSHfTESS. 3

tlie brig " Scraper," belonging to the well-known firm
of Dig and Pinch. On this occasion I took out, among
other things, four dozen clocks, made at Bristol, Con-
necticut, by Messrs. Turner and Lathem. These
succeeded admirably ; and, on my return, I had an offer
from these gentlemen to go into the clock business
altogether. This I accepted, and for eighteen months
was occupied in seUing these articles in the Southern
States. Sometimes I sold a clock for cash, sometimes I
exchanged for other articles, and sometimes I set one
up, and agreed to come round in a year and take either
the money or the clock. When the people had got
used to one of these time-pieces, they felt lonesome
without it : so I generally found setting one up was as
good as a sale. I was, in fact, very successful, and at
last had gained about one thousand dollars. This I
lent to my employers, thinking it the safest way of
investing my money ; but fortune now came near play-
ing me a trick.

One day, soon after I had returned from a southern
trip, when I was crossing the bridge at Bristol, one of
my Mends met me and said, ''Have you heard the
news ?"

« Not at all," said I ; " what is it ?"
" Why, they say the clock business is wound up."
" That's better than if it had run down," said I.
" I don't know that," said my friend. " The fact is
that Turner and Lathem have stopped !"

I said little, but went to the establishment of these
gentlemen, and found the story to be true. I pleaded
hard for my money, but without avail. They finally
offered me two hundred clocks ; and, as I could do no
better, I took them — as full payment for tcv^ Vo^scl <^^ ^
Hbousand dollars. I now began to consv^et TN>aafc\»^^& \»^

b2

4 BTABT POB CHIKA.

be done ; and, not having fully made up my mind, I
went to New York.

As I walked along the wharves, T saw a vessel up for
China. I immediately began to think of taking my
clocks to that country. I had heard of some being
sold there at fifteen or twenty dollars apiece, and began
to reckon up the money I should get from such a
venture. " Two hundred clocks," said I, " at fifteen
dollars apiece, will be three thousand dollars. I'll lay
this all out in tea, and I'll get twice as much as I gave
for it — that will make six thousand dollars. I'll work
my passage out and back ; so I'll have no expenses but
freight, duties, &c. — call these one thousand dollars.
That leaves five thousand, net and clear. This would
be a nice sum, and would set me up in Sandy Plain.
How proud father and mother would be, and how all
the people would roll up their eyes and say, * There, I
told you so ! That Go-ahead Gilbert has come back
with five thousand dollars; anybody could see with
half an eye that he was bom to good luck. But how
proud he is ! He seems to think himself as tall as a
Lombardy poplar.' " At the end of this soliloquy I
had made up my mind. " I will go to China !" said I.

No sooner said than done. At the end of eleven
days my two hundred clocks were snugly packed on
board the "Hong Kong," and we went out to sea.
Nothing remarkable occurred on our voyage. After
three months we found ourselves at Singapore, an island
at the southern extremity of a long peninsula, which
bears the name of Malacca. It is about thirty miles
long. The climate is that of almost perpetual summer ;
and oranges, lemons, melons of various kinds, are
abundant throughout the year. It belongs to Great

'tain, which, hjr the way, seems to have got posses-

BBnra UP AT SIKGAFOBE. 5

sion of many of the finest spots in tliese Eastern
countries.

On the south side of the island is the town of Singar
pore, which is divided into three parts. In the centre
are the English merchants, with the pubhc offices ; to
the west is the Chinese quarter, and to the east the
Malay quarter. In the latter portions the people are
a strange looking set ; living in slight huts or shanties,
which appear as if they would be blown away by the
wind. The Chinese are smooth, yellow, oily little
fellows, just such as everybody has seen at Bamum's
Museum. The Malays seem to be half savages. Their
skin is a dark brown ; their hair coarse and lank ; their
eyes small, black, and sparkling. Their dress is slight,
ofben leaving the shoulders and chest uncovered. The
younger children are naked. The English quarter of
the place has some good houses of brick.

This town is a great stopping-place for vessels pass-
ing between India and China, and has intercourse, by
means of trading vessels, with numerous ports along the
Asiatic coast, as well as those in the surrounding islands.
As our vessel remained here about a fortnight to refit
her sails and rigging, which had been sadly damaged
in a hurricane, I had opportunity to make inquiries,
and finally concluded to stop here, and give up the idea
of going on to China. I therefore had my clocks all
taken out, and immediately entered on my plans for
selling them.

I

CHAPTER II.

Description of Singapore. — Farther India. — Sumatra. — Borneo,
&c. — Selling Clocks. — How to get a draught of (boat's Milk. —
Bargain off a Clock to a Malay. — Serious Consequences. — All
Bight. — Quite a Trade. — Set out for Sumatra. — Arrival at
Bencoolen.

Befobe I proceed farther, in an account of my travels,
it seems proper to give my readers a brief description
of the far-off region in which my strange adventures
took place.

As I have said before, the little island of Singapore is
at the southern extremity of the long, narrow penin-
sula of Malacca. To the north are several countries,
such as Siam, Birmah, Anam, &c., bearing the general
name of Farther India. These countries are fiill of
people ; some in a savage and some in a barbarous state,
and having many strange and barbarous customs.

South and east of these countries are a great number
of islands, some large and some small. The island of
Sumatra is about one thousand miles long, and lies
south of Malacca. It is separated from it by the Straits
of Malacca, which are twenty-five miles wide at the
narrowest part. In passing through this channel, we
could see the land on both sides ; the mountains of
Sumatra rising up like bluish clouds on the right, and
seeming to mingle with the sky.

If the reader will consult any school map, he will get
a clear idea of the various countries in Farther India, as
well as Malacca, Singapore, and the Asiatic islands. To
the east of Sumatra, at a distance of about three hun-
dred miles, is the great island of Borneo. To the south
of this, at the distance of about two hundred and fifty
milee, is the interesting island of Java. There are

SELLnra CLOCKS. 7

numerous other islands to the east of these. They all
lie near the equator, and some of them directly imder
it. The climate is nearly the same as that of the West
Indies.

I remained about a nK)nth at Singapore before I could
make up my mind what course to pursue. I sold a few
clocks to the English settlers ; but in general they were
well supplied, and I found but a poor market among
them. I went to see the Chinese and Malays, but most
of them could not speak a word of English ; and, besides,
they did not understand the figures on the clocks, nor
did they generally appear to care a fig for the time ot
day ; they seemed to let the sun, moon, and stars take
care of themselves, while they were occupied in their
own concerns, indifferent to time and tide, night and
day, wind and weather.

I have found that every kind of information some-
times comes in play. One of my youthM companions
at Sandy Plain was deaf and dumb, and being sent to
the asylum at Hartford, learned the language of sig^.
Being often with him, I acquired some of these, and, one
day, at Singapore, I found them of great use. Having
one of my clocks on my back, I travelled to the eastern
part of the Malay village. I went to a little house
made of bamboo, and the weather being exceedingly hot,
I approached the door and sat down. The proprietor,
who was a short, lean, swarthy man, with no other dress
than a striped cotton apron, came out, and seemed to
bid me welcome.

" Speak English ?" said I, bowing.

" Lakkawak, lakkawak !" said he.

" Well,'* thought I, " I don't understand lakkawak, so
I must now try the universal language of signs." I was
very thirst/, and concluded I wouUl a&^ iot ^qtcdl'^ tk^.

8 BABOAUr OTF Jl olooh.

So I imitated with my two hands the drawing of milk
from the teats of a cow. The man seemed to understand
me immediately. He laughed heartily, and ran off to
a field, where he caught a goat by the horns and dragged
it to me, as much as to say "Help yourself!" I inti-
mated by signs that he should perform the operation of
milking. Instead of this, he called his wife, who seemed
the exact counterpart of himself, only smaller and rather
more fleshy. She soon drew some of the milk into a
eocoa-nut shell cup, out of which I took my first draught
of goat's milk. I may as well add that I found it very
refi-eshing, though rather thin and watery.

I expressed my thanks as well as I could, and soon
found myself on good terms with the Malay and his
wife. I then unpacked my clock, wound it up, and set
it going. My new friends looked on with wonder and
curiosity ; but I soon perceived that they did not at all
comprehend what it meant. I pointed to the sun and
described a vast circle in the air with my finger, mean-
ing to say that it was a time-piece, intended to measure
the progress of the sun around the earth. Both man
and wife opened their eyes, and exclaimed, " Jig a jig !*'
Immediately the wife ran to a comer of the house, where
she pulled out a large, fat, frightful image, and set
it before me.

It was easy to see that she had mistaken my clock
for a god, and she was now proposing to swap her god
for mine. This was a poser, and I declined the trade.
Several other things were brought and offered to me in
exchange ; at last she produced about a quart of nut-
m^, and three or four sheets of tortoise-shell, and we
concluded a bargain. I was then invited to dinner ;
hut^ as I learned that it consisted of sago-soup, seasoned
waitA a rat, I affected haste and went away.

BlBIOrS COirSEQTJEIfrOES. 9

I thought I had made a good bargain ; but, two days
afber, as I was in the Malay town, my customer met me
with a furious flourish of his flsts. A mob collected, and
I was speedily dragged to his house. It seems that the
clock had run down, and the man accordingly thought
his god was dead, which led him to conclude he had
been grossly imposed upon. I was on the point of
being torn to pieces, when a Malay sailor interfered.
He knew a little English, and was acquainted with the
use of a clock. He took the matter in hand, and began
an explanation. "Eat-it-te-tat, bang-dong-ding!'* said
he, pointing to the clock. " Hong-kong-hak-tak-pump-
pump !" said he, pointing to me.

He went on, apparently in a very eloquent style. At
first the audience looked gloomy, but when the truth
burst upon them, and the people understood that their
neighbour had bought a time-piece instead of a god, they
burst into a wild scream of laughter. Even Mr. Malay
and his wife seemed to enjoy the joke. The mob dis-
persed, and I was allowed to depart ; but, from the time,
I was a marked man, and every time I appeared in the
Malay village, I could see the boys and girls skulking
away and snickering, and imitating the vibrations of
the pendulum with their fingers, saying " Tick-tick,
tick-tick." I suppose that my name there is Mr. Tick-
tick to this day.

At the end of a month, I- had sold twenty clocks,
for which I had received about fifty dollars in money,
with lots of catechu, trepang, birds' nests for soup, sea-
weed, tortoise-shells, pepper, and nutmegs. Some of
these I traded off to the Chinese merchants, and others
I sold to the British traders. I sold one clock for
seven ivory gods, which I exchanged with a Chinaman
for a chest of tea,, which I swai^peA ioi ivi^^Joa^^ ^1 '^'^

10 ABBIYAL JLT BEKCOOLSK.

bird of paradise, and which I exchanged with an Ameri-
can adventurer for one of Colt's revolvers. This I kept ;
for, though I was a member of the peace society when I
lefb home, in these wild coimtries, I concluded that the
best way to keep peace was to be prepared for war.

Having got my business in a snug shape, I now
determined to try my luck in Sumatra. I accordingly
entered on board a Chinese junk, boimd for Bencoolen,
the capital of that island. She was loaded with pearl-
sago, agricultural implements, arms, and various other
articles manufactured by the Chinese at Singapore. She
was a clumsy crafb, but of considerable bulk, with three
masts, and an enormous double deck. She was manned
by about thirty sailors. During the voyage, I took the
greatest pains to learn to speak Chinese, and very soon
acquired many important phrases . This was necessary, as
I was to travel in countries where many people understood
this language. At the end of a fortnight, we passed the
Straits of Sunda, which are about seventy miles wide,
and separate Java from Sumatra.

We now turned northward, and at the end of another
week were at Bencoolen. This lies on the western side
of Sumatra, and is a well-built town, of twelve thousand
inhabitants. It belongs to the Dutch, who hold a
large territory here, and exercise a controlling influ-
ence over the whole of Sumatra. My adventures in
this island were very curious, and deserve a chapter by
themselves.

11

CHAPTER III.

Description of Bencoolen. — Pepper and Sneezing. — Camphor and
Comfort. — A Chinese Woman offers to marry me. — Battle with a )
Ram. — The Bajah of Mocomoco. — An Audience. — My first Speedi
in Public. — A Frightful Event. — Am taken into Royal Favour.
— Going to Mocomoco. — The Queen and her Black Eyes. — Am
Detained by the King and put in Prison. — A Fair Visitor. —
Escape. — A Swift Ride. — The Hippopotamus Line. — A Tiger
and a Boa Constrictor.

Bencoolen lies on the soutli-westem side of Sumatra,
and contains, as I have said, about twelve thousand
inhabitants. It is smaller than Singapore; but, in
some respects, it resembles that place. It was esta-
blished and built by the British nearly two hundred
years ago, but it was given up to the Dutch in 1826.
Some few English remained, and a considerable number
of Dutch are settled in the town. By far the greater
part of the inhabitants, however, are natives of various
tribes, mingled with Chinese. Most of the city is
built on low ground, near the water, where it is said
to be imhealthy; but a little farther inland is an
immense fortification, called Fort Marlborough, on ele-
vated ground, surrounded by country seats, where the
air is cool and refreshing.

I took about a day to survey the town, deliver a
letter of introduction, and get my clocks ready for dis-
tribution. " There's nothing like industry," said I,
and so I was up early the second day, and by twelve
o'clock, I had sold six of them. I got my pay mostly
in cash, but I was obliged to barter in some cases. At
night, on looking over my affairs, I found I had taken
about fifty dollars in money, a good lump of copper,,
a bag of sulphur, a lot of saltpetre, and about a. ta^
BpoonM of gold dust. The next day 1 ^o^^ioxo: 0^<5k^^

12 BATTLE WITH A BAM.

for two bags of pepper and a quantity of camphor.
The former, as I moved it about, set me a sneezing,
and then the dust got into my eyes and set me crying.
A Chinese woman, who happened to see me at this
time, asked me what was the matter. I pretended I was
weeping to think of one of the girls I had left in
Sandy Plain ; whereupon, the said Chinese woman told
me to stop crying, and, by way of inducement, offered
to marry me upon the spot !

After I got over the pepper, I began to arrange the
camphor, which reminded me very strongly of what
happened in my youth ; and I may as well tell it here.
One of our neighbours had a villanous sheep, with
an immense pair of horns. One day, as the latter was
going by our house, I shook my fist at him ; where-
upon, he stopped, looked me fuU in the face, drew in
his nose, and shook his head, as much as to say, ^' I
stump you to a battle." I had no idea of a regular
fight ; but, by way of joke, I got down on all fours,
and advanced toward the animal, drawing in my chin,
and shaking my head as he had done. Quick as
thought, the rascal bounded toward me, and, hitting
me plump in the forehead with his pate, laid me sprawl-
ing upon the grass. I was taken up quite stimned,
nor did I recover till I had been well rubbed with
spirits of camphor. This incident now rushed upon
my remembrance, though it had occurred fifteen thou-
sand miles off, and a dozen years before. Thus it is
that the memories of the past pursue us over the world !

In about a week I had supplied Bencoolen with
clocks, and was casting about for some other market,
when it chanced that one of the native chiefs of
the island came to visit the Dutch governor of this

THE SAJAH OE MOOOHOOO. 13

place. He was tlie Kajah of Mocomoco, a small
district about two hundred miles to the north. He
was a yellow little man, with a flat nose, and long
black braided hair. His upper teeth were filed to
a point, and coloured black ; his under teeth were
encased in a plate of gold. He had a long robe or
jacket, made of the inner fibre of bark, tied around
the waist by a sash, in which were stuck a pair of pis-
tols and a long knife, the stocks and handle being
mostly of gold, and richly chased. He had a turban
on his head, literally covered with peai'ls, there being
one superb diamond in front. He was attended by
about a dozen men, attired something like himself,
though in a plainer fashion.

I had never seen a live king before, and it may be
well supposed that I looked upon this specimen with
great curiosity. I soon began to reflect that the patron-
age of this potentate would be important to my business
in the clock line. It would be very weU to be able to say,
" that his highness Eam de Bang, the genuine, original,
and sublime rajah of Mocomoco had taken, purchased,
adopted, and patronized my clocks." The example of
royalty, all the world over, is contagious. Who could
refiise to buy my time-pieces afber such an example ?
" And beside," thought I, " who knows but there is a
chance to open a trade with Mocomoco, which may be
useful to our country? This prince seems to have
gold, and pearls and diamonds about him in such pro-
fusion, that one may doubtless scrape them up in his
country as easily as you can gather pebbles along the
sea-shore. I may never meet with such a chance again.
* When it rains porridge, hold up your dish.' * Faint
heart never won fair lady.' * One thing mac^ %& n^^jKl

14 JLK ATTDIENCE.

be done as another,' as Sam Patcli said when he jumped
over Niagara Falls. * Go it strong,' as David Crockett
said when he hung to the tail of a grizzly bear climbing
a cotton-wood tree. ' There's nothing like trying,' as
the monkey said when he used the cat's paw to pull
the chestnuts out of the fire." This reasoning was con-
clusive to my mind, and I was resolved to wait upon
his majesty of Mocomoco without delay.

I dressed myself in my best black suit, put on
my patent leather pumps, hired a Malay to carry one
of my best clocks, and proceeded to the quarters of
the king. He was speedily informed that a stranger
without wished to see him. In about half an hour
I was permitted to enter. His majesty was seated
upon a magnificent tiger skin, laid upon the floor. I
made a low bow, putting my hands to my forehead, as
I had seen the people do here. Eam de Bang looked
mysterious. I caused the clock to be set before him.
His majesty smiled, stretched out his hand, extended
his forefinger, and waved it ba<jk and forth like the
vibration of a pendulum, saying at the same time,
" Tick," " Tick !"

" Your majesty is a philosopher, as well as a great
king," said I, in the best Malay I could muster.

" Tick, tick ; pully, pully ; woolly, woolly !" said he.

" Your majesty is perfectly right," said I, though I
did not fully understand what he said. I now pro-
ceeded in a very eloquent style nearly as follows:
" That are clock, squire Ram de Bang, is a first-rate
article, and 1 lay it at your majesty's feet, free gratis
for nothing, though I shouldn't refuse one of them
pearls in your excellency's cap, just by way of compli-
znenL This clock is a real time-piece ; it'U go fifteen
dBj-s in a fortnight, without winding up, besides telling

MT PIEST SPEECH Hf PTTBLIO. 15

the day of the montli. It comes from the greatest
coimtry in the univarse— the country of George Wash-
ington, Ben Franklin, and Sam Slick, who fit the Ke-
volutionary War, druv out the redcoats, and established
the Fourth of July, as your majesty has no doubt read
of in Peter Parley's Universal History. Proud am I,
sire, to be the medium of communication between the
Universal Yankee nation and the kingdom of Moco-
moco. Accept, sire, this tribute of respect, and hand
it down to the latest generations, that it was given to
you by Gilbert Go-ahead, of Sandy Plain, New Haven
county, Connecticut, aged twenty-one years, six months,
and four days!"

It is not possible for the reader to understand fully
the beauties of my speech, which was delivered mostly
in the flowing language of the Malays, and which, on
account of its sweetness, is called the Italian of the
JEast, At any rate its effect upon Eam de Bang seemed
to be agreeable, for at first he opened his eyes, and then
he shut them, and fell into a profound snooze. Perhaps
the extreme heat contributed to the soothing effect of
my eloquence.

The whole audience, except myself, soon followed the
example of the rajah ; and, not to be outdone in polite-
ness, I sat down, stretched out my legs, and pretended
to be asleep. A deep silence reigned over the scene for
about ten minutes. The clock, which was standing in
front of his majesty, went on ticking as if nothing had
happened. Now you must know it was what is called
an alarm-clochy and I foresaw that great events were
near at hand. I had taken care to set the alarm so
that it would go off in about fifteen minutes. At length
the time arrived; Whur-r-r-r-r-r-r ! — went tlaa cXa^^
as if it were suddenly taken witla. a fi.t. TVi<i ^^^Ci\» ^^a»

16 AM TAKEK INTO EOTAL FAVOTJE.

electrical ; up jumped his majesty, and up jumped every
one of his attendants. In a moment their blades and
pistols were brandished in the air ; every one cleared
out from the clock, as if it had been a boa constrictor,
or a crocodile. Two or three pointed their pistols at it
in the most ferocious manner. His majesty seemed to
divide his suspicion between me and the time-piece.

At last I waved my hand in a manner to request
patience. I wished with all my heart that the clock
would hold its tongue, but on it went in a most furious
style. At last ib stopped, and then I had an opportu-
nity to speak. I was finally able to pacify the king
and his retinue, and made them understand the purpose
of the alarm. When his majesty fully comprehended
the ingenious device, he smiled graciously, took off a
superb diamond ring from his finger, and presented it
to me. With many profound bows I took my leave,
having found an opportunity before I went, to invite
some of the officers present to pay me a visit.

At the end of the week I had closed my business at
Bencoolen, and shipped the remainder of my clocks for
Acheen, a large town about five hundred miles to the
north-west, and capital of the most considerable state
in Sumatra. I had made arrangements to sail with
them the next day, when two of Kam de Bang's officers
called upon me, and gave me an invitation on the part
of the rajah, to accompany him and his suite to his
capital of Mocomoco. This request was too flattering
to be refused, and in two days we departed. Our whole
company consisted of about twenty persons, and four
small horses, for the use of the rajah, his two principal
officers, and myself. The rest went on foot.

We travelled near the sea-coast for a dozen miles,
aad then, turning to the north-east, passed over a hilly

GOING TO MOCOMOCO. 17

country, covered with small huts, and surrounded by
plantations of pepper. We passed several streams, on
the borders of which were numerous villages. The in-
habitants appeared to be a mild and inoffensive race,
spending a great part of their time in dozing in the
shade of palm trees, mingled with their children : they
seemed to me almost like flocks of sheep with their
lambs, letting time slip by, thinking only of the de-
mands of appetite. The weather was enchanting, ex-
cept that it was very hot in the middle of the day,
during which period everybody seemed to go to sleep
as we do at night in Yankee land. The moon was
nearly at its full, and most of our journey was per-
formed between sun-down and sim-rise. The scene
around was strange, but beautiful. " This is a very
curious expedition," said I to myself, fifty times. " Here
is simple Gilbert Go-ahead, of Sandy Plain, in the state
of Connecticut, who has got roimd t'other side of the
globe, and here he goes as the Mend and favourite of
the king of Mocomoco, to pay a visit, by special invi-
tation, to his capital." When I looked around upon
the wild, dark group at my side — when I g^ed upon
the landscape, and observed trees and plants, strange
and unknown to the land of my birth — ^when I remem-
bered that I was at least fifteen thousand miles from
my home and my kindred — I felt a sadness, a sense
of desolation, which drew tears to my eyes. But
these soon passed away, and my natural cheerfulness
returned.

After two or three days our road began to wind
among hills. As we advanced, these increased in eleva-
tion, and at last we were threading our way among
mountains whose tops seemed to to\ic\i^\vfe ^ow.^. ^^!>Ckft
land was heavily timbered in th© \\tt\ft N«Sifi^^ ^sA

18 THE QITEEK klSTD HEB BLACK EYES.

gorges, but the peaks of the mountains consisted of
bare and desolate rock, dark and brown like iron ore.
We soon had crossed the mountain territory, and began
to descend over a waving country to the north and
east. We now met with villages, consisting of rather
barbarous people, and at the end of ten days we reached
Moc-moc, or Mocomoco, which, however, is to be dis-
tinguished from the place of that name, lying in the
western part of the province, and the sea coast. The
rajah was received with great rejoicing by the people.
On reaching his palace, which consisted of about fifby
huts, joined together and covered with palm leaves, he
passed through a long file of soldiers, who closed the
ceremony with shouts and a prodigious banging of
gongs, drums, and horns.

I stayed at this place about a fortnight, being kindly
treated by the king, and introduced to his principal
queen. The latter was veiled, but she permitted me to
see one of her eyes, which was very black and pretty.
I thought she winked at me, and supposing it to be the
custom of the country, I winked back again. The next
day the lady privately sent me four large pearls, with
her compliments. " This is a great country," thought
I, " where a man can get pearls just for winking his
eyes at a queen."

I now announced that I desired to depart, but to my
amazement the king informed me that he expected me
to remain at Moc-moc. I assured his majesty I had
no such intention, and must immediately take leave.
Upon this the king rang a small hand-bell, and four
stout fellows entered. In a moment I was bound hand
and foot, and taken to a solitary prison made of stakes
jff^b JO the ground, and covered with plank. Here I
^lotoained a whole week, without seeing a &mgU i^raon^

A 7AIB YISITOB. 19

my food consisting of melons and figs, whicli were
thrust into my room throisLgh an opening in the wall.

One night I was awakened &om a sonnd sleep by a
noise at my door. The bolt was drawn aside, and the
door was sofbly opened. I perceived in the darkness
that a slight female form entered.

"Who are you?" said I.

"It matters not," was the reply; "but listen. Do
you desire your liberty ?"

" Yes, certainly."

" Well, I give it to you on one condition."

" And what is that ?"

" That you take me with you."

" And who are you ?"

" The Queen of Mocomoco."

" The lady of the black eyes ?"

" The same."

" Why should you go ? you are a queen here — I am
only a Yankee pedler."

" What is that ?"

" I seU clocks."

" Bah ! You are not a conjuror, then ? You are not
a prince — ^you are not of royal blood ?"

" Not a bit of it, madam ; I am only one of the
people."

" What a fool I am !" And saying this, the lady
slammed the door and departed.

I now made a great effort, broke the leathern strap
about my feet, and left my prison. It was about mid-
night, and a general stillness pervaded the city. I
made a wide circuit, for fear of pursuit, and at last
came to the bank of a river, which I afterwards learned
was the Jambi. The stream was about a hundred
yards in width. I was a goodi «iViXDSisX) «s^ ^j^f^%

o2

20 THE BmOTOrtJLMVS LEsrs.

what I took to be a rock, about balf way acrosa,
plunged in, and soon reached that point. What was
my amazement, as I sat astride of the seeming rock,
to perceive that it was in motion. Its coarse was, at
first, down the stream, the waters rippling and foaming
aromid me as if I had been in a boat. I concluded that
I was taken with vertigo, and that, at any rate, the
safest way was to hold on. Pretty soon I perceived
that I was carried toward the northern bank of the
river. Holding fast to the mysterious object which
bore me on, I speedily found myself carried to the
shore. The wonder was now explained ; I was mounted
on the back of a hippopotamus !

" Well," thought I, "this is a streak of luck." I
knew the creature was not vicious, and the best way
was to rido as far as he was going my way. He trotted
off at a good brisk rate, taking a northerly course, which
wan the direction in which I desired to go. It was
rtiihar hard holding on, as his back was round, aud his
>*hould<jn* worked up and down like a saw-mill. How-
(iViiVf I hugged hard with my legs, and occasionally, in
©morgoncy, put my arms around his neck. Thus we
journey(}d on smartly for three quarters of an hour. I
got some bad scratches from the trees and bushes, but
as I travelled gratis, I could not find fault. Suddenly
my companion came to a small lake, into which he
phmgod, rolling over at the same time, to make sure of
getting rid of me. This left me imbedded in the mud,
and I only escaped stiffbcation by a hard struggle. On
the whole I can't recommend the hippopotamus line in
Mooomoco, though it is cheap and expeditious, under
some circumstances.

Morning soon approached, and I continued my jour-
n^. The country was covered with patches of forest.

TiaEB AISTD BOA COITSTBICTOB. 21

and occasional spaces of thick matted shmbs and grasses.
Among the latter were winding paths, formed by the
wild animals that frequent it. I concluded that I had
better remain here during the day, for the sake of
security against the pursuit of the Mocomocoans. I
had made myself a kind of bed at the foot of a tree,
and was about sinking into a sweet sleep, when I heard
a rustling in the bushes at a short distance. Looking
before me, I saw a young tiger stepping softly through
the grass. Suddenly a huge serpent sprung upon him,
and woimd him in its terrible folds. The tiger uttered
one hideous yell, and expired. I did not dare to stir,
but lay still until the serpent had strangled his victim
and partially swallowed him. Thinking that his mouth
was too full to allow him to think of me, I retreated and
got out of the jungle as fast as my legs could carry me.
For two days I pursued my journey in a northerly
direction, toward the moimtains, and began to hope
that I should soon be able to reach the Dutch settle-
ment of Pedang, on the western coast; but this ex-
pectation was not realized.

CHAPTEE IV.

A dreary Situation. — ^My Stock -in-Trade. — The terrible Battas. —
Gloomy Reflections. — I take Courage. — Meeting with a Monkey
and his Friends. — ^A beautiful Night. — A Rencontre with Savages.
— I am taken into Captivity. — Strange Adventures in a Cave. —
Marvellous Escape. — Come to a Town and am surrounded by the
People.

Havin& reached the top of one of the mountains, I
found myself greatly fatigued. I lay down beneath the
thick shade of some cedars, and feeling tolerably secure
from immediate danger, soon fell asleep. After a lon^
nap, I awoke, and began to considei m^ ^VW^vsvi*

22 HT STOOJEC-IK-TBASE.

This was dreary enough. I had lefb Moc-moc in
such a hurry as entirely to forget my bag of gold dust,
my revolvers, my Sunday clothes, and many other
articles of value or necessity ; all the earnings of three
months' labour, and the product of at least fifby clocks,
were gone for ever. I had lost my hat in my ride upon
the hippopotamus, and one of my shoes had been lefb
sticking in the mud. In searching my pockets, I found
nothing remaining but a three-bladed knife, a small pair
of pincers, a file, nine screws, half a yard of brass wire,
a paper box of friction matches, the four pearls given
me by the Queen of Mocomoco, three horn buttons, two
yards of twine, sixteen percussion caps, an inch of lead
pencil, and a brass locket with a braid of hair and a
daguerreotype in it — the history of which I shall not
give at present.

Well, was not this a sorry inventory for a man on the
top of a mountain in Sumatra ? At first I laughed out-
right — for you must know that nature had given me a
cheerful heart. But a man cannot live by laughing,
and soon my mind took a more serious turn. " What
am I to do ?" said I. 'Twas a puzzling question. From
my elevated position I could see, far to the south-east,
the country of Lampong, broken with mountains, and
extending to the sea-shore. To the eastward of this,
along the line of the coast, I could trace the faint
images of settlements upon the borders of the river
Moosee, at the mouth of which, some hundred miles oflT,
lay the Dutch city of Palembang. To the west my
view was interrupted by mountains rising far above my
head.

My desire was, as I have said, to make my way to

Padang; a Dutch town on the western side of the

island. From this place I thought I might easily go

THB TEBRTBLE BATTA8. 23

to Acheen, where my clocks had been shipped, and with
these I could again try my fortune. But difficulties
beset me on every side. The interior of Sumatra is
seldom visited by white people, and is in fact wholly in-
habited by the native tribes. Some of these I knew to
be very savage. I had heard terrible stories of the
Battas, who make horrid feasts of prisoners, whom they
roast and devour with great relish; of the Bejangs,
who worship wild animals, and are addicted to many
ferocious customs, and of other savage races, practising
every kind of cruelty, especially upon strangers. I
knew the recesses of the country to be infested, also,
with wild animals, even more dangerous than these
savages.

I spent nearly a whole day in considering what was
to be done. I almost gave myself up as without hope,
and lay down upon the ground, determined to make no
effi)rt for deliverance. But, after a time, I began to
feel very hungry, and this brought me to my senses. I
resolved first to get something to eat, and then set out
for Padang. In this extremity, I did not forget the
good lessons my mother had given me; so I knelt
down imder a cedar tree and prayed to God for help.
It is very strange what comfort often visits the poor
and desolate wanderer, from the feeling that there is
One in Heaven who will listen to the prayers of his
children. I felt new strength and courage, and began
my journey, hoping to find some wild firuits on my
way.

I descended the slope of the mountain, and soon
reached a little narrow valley, filled with wild palm trees.
As I was passing along, I suddenly heard a terrible cry,
as if half a dozen Malays were shouting after me in the
woods. I immediately skulked in ttift \.«SL ^j»8Ji\\s<s^>

24 A MOlifKEY AJSD HIS FBIEITDS.

before I had time to look round, I heard a rattling;
among the branches of a tree above me, and, instantly,
a huge cocoa-nut came down bang, at my side ! I
looked up in the tree, and there sat a queer-looking
little gentleman, gazing fidl in my face, and seeming to
be laughing at me.

" Oh, ho ! Mister Monkey," said I, " it is you making
all this noise ; well, well, I forgive you with all my
heart, for you have sent me a capital supper." So
saying, I picked up the cocoa-nut, and retiring to a
little distance, crushed it, and made a hearty meal.
Having done this, I returned to the tree, and beckoned
to the hospitable monkey to come down and shake
hands with me ; but he set up a furious yell, and I saw
three or four of his neighbours jumping, leaping, and
swinging along the branches of the trees — all fixing
their grinning looks upon me. Supposing they in-
tended a united attack, and annoyed by their clamour,
I bade them farewell, and, after some pretty tall walk-
ing, crossed the valley, and began to ascend the moun-
tain before me.

The night was dark, except that the stars shone with
a brilliancy unknown in New England. Most of them
consisted of groups I had never seen before. Several
of them looked three times as large as our Yankee stars,
and, in fact, appeared like little glimmering moons.
Aided by their partial light, I was able to continue my
journey. In the morning I reached the top of the
mountain, and had an imbounded view to the west. As
the sun came up from the blue mist that covered the
ocean, a scene of grandeur, which I cannot describe, was
presented to me. In a short time, I was able to trace
the mountain tops, that rose like huge elephants along
^^e centre of the khnd, and to the west, I fancied I

A BENCONTBB WITH 8AYA6E8. 25

could discover, among various settlements, the town of
Padang. I breakfasted on some cocoa-nut meat, which
I had brought with me ; and, after a nap of four hoiu^,
began to descend the moimtains.

I had fancied that I might reach Padang in two
days, but I soon found my progress more tedious than
I had expected. The groimd was exceedingly irregular ;
and, what had seemed to be a smooth slope, was, in
fact, a series of rocky ridges, deep ravines, and a wild
labyrinth of woods and thickets. The farther I ad-
vanced, the more intricate and confused was my
course. At night, I was involved in a maze of trees
and shrubs, surrounded by steepling rocks and jutting
precipices.

The scene was indeed terrific ; but I had no choice,
and cast about for some place where I might spend the
night. I soon found an opening beneath a large rock,
which seemed to be the entrance of a cave. I explored
this for a short distance, and having gathered some
branches of large-leaved trees, I made myself a bed, and
prepared for my repose. I was greatly fatigued, and
fell asleep, but was soon awoke by the noise of several
voices. Qtszing aroimd, I saw half a dozen wild-looking
men entering the cave upon their knees, and passing
very near to me. They disappeared in the recesses of the
cavern, which, however, sent forth a lingering echo of
their noisy conversation.

I remained silent for some time, and then concluded
to steal away ; I had proceeded only a few steps, how-
ever, when I was met by three other savages. They
uttered a terrible shout, which called the men out of
the cavern, and I was immediately surrounded and
captured. I was taken into the cave, and a torch being
lighted, I was examined witii g;te«i\> ^sioteA^^^ ^sA

26 I AM TAKEir IITTO CAPTIVITT.

curiosity. Their language was a wild jargon, and I
could understand very little of it.

It seemed, however, that they were gold-washers, and
lived among the mountains, to gather the particles of
the precious metal, which they found in the sands of
the little river which rippled through the valley. They
concluded to keep me for two or three days, when they
would return to their village, and make a feast of me.
I was, therefore, tied hand and foot, and laid in a
remote part of the cave. My captors now occupied
themselves in tying up their gold dust in little bags.
They then ate their supper, put out the torch, and
finally went to sleep.

With me, it was no time for repose. The horrible
prospect of being roasted and devoured by these can-
nibals filled my mind with horror. What could I do
to escape such a dreadful fate ? To break my bonds
with a violent effort, and rush upon these men was my
first project. Such a scheme, however, seemed al-
together too desperate. I lay at least two hours,
devising all sorts of plans ; at last, I thought of my
friction matches. " That's a bright idea of yours,
Gilbert Go-ahead," said I ; " you wasn't made a Yankee
for nothing; 'necessity is the mother of invention.'
These are very superstitious people, and I'll frighten
them, if I don't give them a singeing."

The darkness was intense ; yet such was my excite-
ment, that I could see the projecting angles of the
rocks, and distinguish the prostrate forms of the enemy
upon the floor of the cavern. With a tremendous
effort, I broke the bark thongs which boimd my wrists,
and easily sundered those around my ankles with my
knife. I now crept forward, like a cat, and placed a
I(g'hted match at the tail of each coat of the savages.

KABTEIiLOrS ESOAPB. 27

These garments consisted of the inner fibres of bark,
and were very combustible. I then retreated to a deep
nook in the cave. Every match but one took effect. The
scene that followed beat every Indian fire-dance that
ever was heard of. First one jumped up, and then
another, and another, till they were all on their feet ;
each looking like a two-legged comet, with a fiery train
behind. Such a slapping, screanung, running, and
jumping. I am very sorry to say that I could not help
laughing at the scene. Luckily, it was soon over. In
the space of a few minutes, the savages had cleared out
from the cavern, leaving me in possession of the pre-
mises. I picked up their little bags of gold — deeming
them a reward for the entertainment I had given —
and put them carefully into my pocket.

Taking advantage of the darkness, I left the cavern,
and, scrambling through forest and glen, found myself
at a considerable distance from the scene of action as
the dawn approached. For three whole days I pursued
my journey through the wilderness ; keeping, as I sup-
posed, in the direction of Padang. On the third day I
came to the open coimtry, and saw several villages
scattered along the banks of a river. I had little doubt
that these belonged to the Dutch settlement, and that
I should find myself safe among the people, whom I
expected would be partially civilized. I therefore pro-
ceeded towards one of these places.

As I approached it, I noticed a great hubbub among
the people. Everybody seemed to be racing and
chasing about ; men and women, girls and boys.
Pretty soon I saw a long line of men issue from the
town. These suddenly commenced running toward me,
and I speedily found myself encircled by an army of at
least three hundred men. Ttese "vjet^ xcio^^^ ^^ii^<:ssj|^

28 GOHS TO A TOWK.

weapons ; but a few of them had clubs, knives, and
pistols. They did not approach me at first, but kept
at a distance, uttering wild cries, throwing up their
arms, and performing all sorts of antics ; at last, they
all knelt down, put their hands to their foreheads, and
bowed before me with an air of reverence !

" Oh, ho ! " said I to myself, " those vagabonds of
the cave have run away, and have told their story to
these people, who take me for a fire-king. Well, there's
nothing like luck. Who knows but what I shall turn
out a rajah, and wear a turban sprinkled with diamonds.
* What can't be cured must be endured ! ' " Scarcely
had I ended this train of reflection, when a new scene
was presented.

CHAPTEE V.

How I extricate myself from a difficult Situation, and am
named Fire-Cloud. — Menankabow. — Products of Sumatra. — De-
scription of the Malays. — Their Persons, Dress, Houses, Tools,
Arts, &c. — The Village of Bang-de-Bang, — Rice, Pepper, and
other Spices. — Sugar-cane and Camphor. — ^Mechanical Inven-
tions. — I go on a Hunting Expedition. — A beautiful Scene.

Fbom what I had heard of the inhabitants of this
part of Sumatra, I supposed the people who now sur-
rounded me to belong to the State of Menankabow,
which was once the most powerful in the island. This
proved to be correct, as we shall see hereafter.

I conjectured, from their appearance, that the people
around me were not very savage ; I supposed they had
heard the adventure of the men in the cave, and took
me to be a sort of fire- witch. This idea was strength-
ened, \^hen I saw two or three persons come out from
the crowd, each having the hinder part of his coat or
Jacket burnt off for about six inches. These turned

HOW I EXTBICATS MYSSLI*. 29

round, so as to show me what had happened, and one of
them made a sign, as if his skin had got singed as well
as his garment. I was glad to perceive that the
sufferers appeared to he rather filled with reverence
than revenge.

The people now hegan fco advance, and the circle to
grow smaller ; this gave me some alarm, and I thought
it hest to establish my authority over the people. The
season was hot, and the tall grass around was dry as
tinder. I stood on a hare knoll, and was therefore safe
from a stratagem I immediately put in practice.
Seizing a handful of the herbage, I set fire to it with a
match, whirled it wildly in the air, jumped up three
times, uttered an Indian war-whoop, and scattered the
blazing stubble around. It smoked for a second, and
then, in several places, the flames leaped up, red and
hissing, like the tongues of so many serpents. In a
short space, a wave of flame swept over the field on
every side. 'No sooner did the rabble see the fire gliding
toward them, than they scampered like sheep before a
wolf, in all directions. In a few minutes, I was left
alone on my hillock, complete master of the field !

Affcer a laugh, hearty and long, I began to consider
what was best to be done. " Shall I take to my heels
and run away ? " said I, " or shall I put on a bold face
and march into the village ? " * Faint heart never won
fair lady.' * None but the brave deserve the fair.'
* Courage and luck are trumps that win every game.'
" In short," said I, concluding the debate with myself,
" as there's nothing else to be done, I'll march upon
the village, and take it, or be taken myself."

I did not hesitate, but proceeded directly towards
the river, along which the houses, erected upon stakes
some ten feet high, were standing. "S^otV^ NiNi'^N^VOia

80 I AH IX AWED irSE-CLOTTD.

body of the rabble bad gathered into tbeir dwellings,
and nothing could exceed the curiosity of the people as
they saw me approaching. As I came near one of the
huts, I could see at least a dozen pair of eyes peering at
me from the doors and holes lefb for windows. There
were men, women, and children, of all sorts and sizes.
I wsdted for a time, and then beckoned to one of the
men to come down to me. He looked very shy, and so
I sat down on the ground. After a time, he came out,
put down his ladder, and with a very doubting air, ap-
proached me. I spoke to him in Malay, and he
answered in a language so similar that I readily under-
stood him.

We now entered into conversation. Soon afber
several other men came out, and then I saw the women,
and finally the children, coming down the ladders in all
directions. I was shortly surrounded by a great num-
ber of persons, who seemed to gaze on me as a prodigy
at once interesting and dangerous. At last, the prin-
cipal men of the village came, and invited me to a sort
of public reception. This took place beneath a long
edifice, consisting of poles set into the ground, and
covered with palm leaves. Here I was addressed in a
respectful manner, and invited to take up my residence
among the people. I was christened Fire-Cloud, in
their language, which I found to be a very respectable
title. After the ceremonies, I had a hut assigned to
me, of which I took immediate possession, and where
I soon found myself very comfortable.

As I spent some weeks in this place, I had a good

opportunity to study the manners and customs of the

people, which are very curious, and of which I shall

give some account. The country, as I had conjectured,

belonged to the rajah of Menankabow. This state is

PB0DUCT8 OF SITILLTBA.. 81

less powerM than formerly, but it still contains several
hundred thousand inhabitants. It is under the actual
control of the Dutch settlement of Fadang. Here the
rajah resides a great part of the time, but he occasion-
ally lives in his provinces, chiefly among the hilly
country, bordering on the mountains. There are
nimierous villages, mostly in the low valleys, and
generally along the banks of rivers. The houses are
built upon stakes, partly to avoid the serpents, scor-
pions, and other venomous reptiles, and partly to be
secure in times of inundation. The people are generally
Malays, and are of a gentle character in the low and
cultivated district-s ; in the mountains there are many
savage and ferocious tribes.

Sumatra is a wonderful island, not only for the rich-
ness and abundance, but also for the variety of its pro-
ducts. It yields gold, copper, iron, sulphur, and naphtha;
it produces more pepper than all the rest of the world,
thirty millions of pounds being annually raised ; cam-
phor, India-rubber, cocoa-nuts, bamboos, sugar, rattans,
rice, coflee, hemp, various gums, and a great variety of
grains, are abundant. A large part of the camphor
used throughout the world is obtained here.

The people of Menankabow may be taken as a sample
of the Malay population in general. They are small,
thin, and dark yellow. The men have a hght beard,
and what grows is carefully eradicated by quick-lime.
The hair is jet black, and regularly anointed with
cocoa-nut oil. Some of the higher rank are of a
tolerably fair complexion ; the eyes are very black and
clear. On the whole, the forms and movements of the
people exhibit great ease and grace, but the counte-
nances are ofben rendered hideous by having tliQ wofs^ss^
Battened in infancy, Sometunea t\i<b xxio^^cl^t^t&s^^^^

S2 BRBSS, ETC. 07 THE MALAYS.

ears of their children grow out from their heads, liko
those of calves.

Their dress was originally woven of the inner fibres
of bark, and this is still used to some extent. Cotton
cloths, made in the European manner, are now common.
The garments of the men are short drawers, a close
fitting vest, and a cloak or coat, extending nearly to the
knees, with a sash around the waist, in which a kris, or
dagger, is worn. The head is covered with a small
turban, or an umbrella hat, somewhat in the Chinese
fashion. The women wear a bodice, long petticoat, and
a cloak with long sleeves. The ladies wear gauze veils,
ornamented with figures of filigree. Both sexes
blacken their teeth, and file them to a point. The
great men sometimes set the under row in plates of
gold.

The furniture of the houses is very simple, chiefly
consisting of fine mats, serving as beds, low tables, a few
dishes of earthenware, with brass waiters and iron pans.
There are neither spoons, knives, nor forks. The diet
is mostly rice, sago, and fruits. The flesh of cattle and
calves, goats and fowls, is eaten, usually seasoned with
curry. There are some manufacturers of earthenware,
daggers, cotton, and silk. In working gold and silver
filigree, the people have g^reat taste and skill ; even in
the remote village where I dwelt, there were several
artisans who produced beautiful articles.

I was quite astonished to see the simplicity and rude-
ness of their tools. Their instrument for wire-drawing
was a piece of an old iron hoop ; an old hammer-head
stuck in a block served for an anvil. Two nails tied
together at one end answered for compasses. For a
bellows, they blew through along joint of bamboo. One
dBjr^ when h considerAble quantity of metal was to be

THE VILLAGB OP BAN&-DE-BANa. B8

melted, it was put into an old iron pot, some fire was

kindled beneath, and four men, each with a bamboo in
his mouth, lay flat on the ground, and blew away at the
fire with all their might. Yet the ornaments produced
by these people were exquisite. Some are sent to
Europe and America, where they decorate the persons
of fine ladies in the parlour and ball-room.

In many other things these people are unskilful^
They know nothing of either painting or drawing.
Their only mode of curing diseases is by charms and
talismans. They have a musical taste, but their instru-
ments are Chinese, consisting of pipes, guitars, drums,
^d gongs.

I have thought it best to give an account of the
manners and customs of this strange people in one con-
tinuous sketch, and have therefore got a little before my
own personal story. I spent some time in the village
of Bang-bang, which, as nearly as I could find out,
signified the Double City, as it consisted of two little
promontories, jutting into a broad expanse of the river.
The whole population was about seven hundred. At
first, the people, as I walked about the streets, seemed
to regard me with awe. The children would hide be-
hind the trees or comers of the houses, and as they
peered out, I could hear them say, " There goes Fire*
Cloud!" This shyness, however, wore off, and I was
soon on easy terms with the whole neighbourhood, and
engaged in most of their sports and many of their
occupations.

Their rice fields, or sawaha^ consist of low wet
grounds, which are trod into a kind of pudding, by
turning in buffaloes, which are here used instead of oxen*
There is some upland rice, the grouxid fe -^VsSis^ Sa»
turoed up with a sort of pickaxe, or xvx^i'b "^ovxj^* ^'^Sva

3>

81 BICE, PEFFES, ATSTD OTHEB SPICES.

rice plants are first struck in good soil, and then trans-
planted to the fields, and set out in rows ; this being
done in showery weather. The product is immense —
one seed sometimes producing a hundred-and-forty-fold.

Among the various spices of Sumatra, the most im-
portant is that of black pepper. This grows on a kind
of vine, which attaches itself by small fibres to other
bodies, like the English ivy. It has large, heart-shaped,
veiny leaves, with long slender flowers, succeeded by the
berries which we call pepper-corns. White pepper is
the same product, picked early, soaked, and dried in the
sun. Two crops are produced in a year. The pepper
is cultivated in gardens, carefully cleared of weeds.
Great pains are taken in watering the plants.

Another kind of spice is the betel- pepper, which re-
sembles the black pepper, though the leaves, flowers,
and seeds are much larger. It is used in various ways,
and is esteemed a necessary of life, among all the nations
of Southern Asia. The leaf is chewed to create a kind
of intoxication, not unlike that produced by smoking
tobacco. The leaf, as well as the seed, mixed with lime
and the areca nut, is chewed by everybody, — men,
women, and children. The people carry this ingredient
constantly about with them, and serve it to their guests
on all occasions.

The prince offers it in a gold stand, and the poor man
in a brass box, or matte bag. Many of the betel stands
are very curious and costly, containing various small
vessels for holding the nut, the leaf, and the chwnam, or
quick-lime. Great ceremony attends the presentation
of the betel. To omit giving it, or to reject it when
offered, would be a gross afiiont. It is a point of eti-
Quette for a poor man always to taste the betel, before
Jieepeaka to bis superior. I tried this mixture several

SUGjOt-OAKB JlSTD CAMPHOR. 35

tdmes, but it seemed to scald my mouth, and made me
80 giddy I could scarcely stand. Yet children of half
a dozen years, being used to it, took it &eely, and
seemed to relish it mightily.

Sugar-cane is cultivated to some extent, but only for
chewing so as to get the sweet juices of the plant.
Hemp is grown, and made to yield a liquor which im-
parts a kind of intoxication, which often amounts to a
trance. Some persons live nearly half their time under
the influence of this delirium.

In the forest there are a great many valuable kinds
of trees, among which the most remarkable is the cam-
phor tree. From this, both camphor gum, and camphor
oil or pitch, are taken. I went into the woods with
the camphor himters several times. It is not every
tree that produces the gum, and therefore deep incisioiJ
are ofben made in several trees before any gum is found.
In one instance, we cut down a tree, fully six feet in
diameter, and got out of it twenty-two poimds of gum.
We found it extending through the heart of the tree in
masses as thick as a man's arm.

I paid considerable attention to the various manu-
factures. I was able, from my Yankee ingenuity, to
introduce several improvements. I built a regular
work-shop for one of the goldsmiths, in which I con-
structed a bellows, according to our fashion. It worked
admirably, and made a roaring blaze. All the people
came to see it, and everybody said it was a wonderful
invention. The workmen were, however, evidently
a&aid of it. They said it might do for Fire-Cloud, but
it was too much like thunder and lightning for them.
They, therefore, refused to use it, and went on puffing
through their bamboo tubes.

After stajing at Bang-baag a\)Ou\iioxn^e^%^\)^f:»5fi&

J>2 4

36 I 60 OIT A HUITTINft EXPEDITION.

very anxious to pursue my journey to Acheen. I found,
however, that the people were very unwilling to have
me leave, and Matty, the chief magistrate, declared that
I was too useful to he permitted to quit the place. He
offered me a wife, a house, a horse, four earthen dishes,
a hrass saucepan, an iron pot, two pigs, and a small rice
plantation, as inducements to remain. My situation
was again somewhat emharrassing. The distance to
Acheen was several himdred miles through a rugged
country, entirely without roads, and occupied by vil-
lages of barbarians, or covered with forests aboxmding
with wild animals. I determined, nevertheless, to
depart as soon as I could find a good opportunity.

One day, I went with a party of about six men upon
a hunting expedition, our design being to remain
several days in the mountains. The hunters had bows,
arrows, and spears, and two of them had old rickety
fowling-pieces. As I was always on the watch for a
chance to run away, I took what Httle property I had
with me, consisting of five ounces of gold-dust, some
beautiful specimens of filigree ornaments, and my four
Mocomoco pearls. I had also adopted the Malay
dress, even to the turban, and being pretty well
browned by exposure to the sun, I hoped to be able to
make my way as a native of the country, through smy
of the unsettled districts I might have occasion to pass.
I had a long keen dagger in my belt, and was provided
for the hunt with a spear, bow, and quiver of arrows.
I had also six friction matches, which I esteemed, on
account of former success, more important than all the
rest.

We took our course to the north, through a long,
narrow valley, and, after travelling some twenty or
^Jurtjr miles, turned toward the mountains. These con-
Bhted of long ridgeSf rising one \>e\mid fti^ o\)tiet,\»"

. A BEAFTirUL SCEITB. 37

tween which were valleys, burthened with heavy forests.
Passing two or three of these ridges, we came at last
to the most beautiful spot I ever beheld. It was a
deep vale, shaped like a bowl, about five miles in
diameter ; the blue mountains rising aloft in the sky,
inclosing it on all sides. In the centre was a lake,
covered with a thin pale mist ; as we looked down upon
it from the heights, several cataracts, appearing like
ribbons of silver, leaped into it from the shaggy sides of
the mountains.

The higher peaks were darkened with cedars and
pines; a little lower down, were forests of camphor,
mango, and Malay apple trees, with many others, whose
names I did not know. The level bed of the valley
seemed overspread with palms, and the whole air was
fiUed with perfumes. Parrots of various forms and
hues, doves of many colours, yellow- billed cuckoos,
golden pheasants, and a variety of other gorgeous but
nameless birds, sang or fluttered among the branches
of the trees ; at the same time the air seemed filled with
troops of brilliant butterflies and other insects. The
mingled wildness and beauty of the spot, without
human inhabitauts, and the dwelling-place only of un-
tamed birds and animals, rendered it exceedingly
interesting.

CHAPTEE VI.

Bare Sport. — The Lake. — Curious Game. — Elephants. — A Paradise
of Birds. — Battle between a Crocodile and Tiger. — I meditate an
£scape. — Meet with a horrid Monster, and make a curious Ac-
quaintance. — Pursue my Journey, and am pursued. — How I was
bayed from a Tiger. — James Grinnel. — Am taken ill, and have
a remarkable Nurse. — Meeting with an Elephant. — Make
Friends with him, and take a Journey on his Back.

Wb reached the beautiful valley ^Ma\i 2t\. \?cv^ \st^^ <s5l
day, and our hunting immediately \iegasi% W» ^^& "^^^^

88 BABE BPOBT — THE tdLEE.

sport, for the animals were very numerous: my first shot .
was with the how at a golden pheasant. The hird was
standing near me, and, so far from heing afraid, hehegan
to strut, and spread his tail and feathers, just like a
peacock. The creature seemed to think that I was a
stranger, and must needs he delighted with his gaudy
attire. After he had gone through his pantomime, I
gave him the arrow, which passed entirely through his
hody. My next shot was a wild-cat, without any tail ;
I brought him down from the branch of a tree, hut he
was only stunned, and, as I picked him up, he gave me
a scratch, and ran off.

In an hour our party collected for breakfast. We
had altogether six pheasants, one wild-cat without a
tail, and one with a tail having six knobs upon it, one
small deer and three tupayas, resembling large weasels.
My readers may imagine that I am telling a mere fancy
story ; but, if they will read an account of Sumatra,
they will find that many strange and peculiar animals
inhabit the island, including all the species which I
describe.

After our meal, we descended into the lower parts of
the valley ; the scene here became still more interesting.
The palm trees grew in groups, with openings between,
giving the place the aspect of a garden. The lake lay
shining and smooth before us ; small fiocks of water-
fowl were seen gliding upon its surface, and long-legged
birds, of the heron kind, stood around its margin, either
looking into its crystal waters for fish, or perhaps
dreaming of pleasures past and to come. This general
aspect of repose was broken in the distance by three or
four tapirs which seemed to be basking near the shore.
Their long noses, extended nearly like the trunk of an
elephant, were thrust out, sometimes sending the water
-^ columns into the air. When they saw \x», \3tie^ t»jcl

ELXPHAITTS — A PABADISE OF BIBBS. 39

to the shore, and disappeared in the woods. They had
the general appearance of hogs, but were as large as
fimall cattle.

This whole region seemed to be teeming with animal
life. We saw the tracks of rhinoceroses in the soil, of
which there are two species here. Not long after, we
caught a glimpse of one of these enormous creatures, but
he did not permit us to approach him. We found paths,
winding about among the trees, made by the wild
animals which come to the lake to drink. In one of
these places we found the tracks of elephants. My
imagination was now greatly excited. In my native
state of Connecticut, I had never seen a wild animal
lai^er than a woodchuck ; it therefore produced in my
mind very strange emotions to be in the midst of a
country, where I knew myself to be surrounded by troops
of these enormous quadrupeds.

As we proceeded, we constantly met with flocks of
doves of splendid colours — ^the argus pheasant, elegant
in form, and even surpassing the peacock in richness of
plumage, with troops of warblers, thrushes and fly-
catchers, singing and fluttering on every side. ItreaUy
seemed as if I were in fairy-land, and I thought to my-
self how charming it would be to spend a whole life in
this valley ! Just as my mind was filled with these
thoughts, I saw the water of a little river at my side
suddenly become agitated. Immediately after, the long
head and glassy eyes of a crocodile were poked out
towards me; with its huge open jaws, the creature
leaped to the land, and made a dash at me ; I jimiped
quickly aside, but his boimd carried him into the midst
of my companions. At the same moment a tiger issued
from the bushes, and made a spring towards them.
This double attack was too much., aii^uV<i«nxi^^\Kmr
bleyell, they all scampered off, 1 ^^\e!^ ^\3kfe, «a^

40 IfEET WITH A HOBBID KOKSTEft.

thinking my time for escape had come, I took to mj
heels, and ran away in an opposite direction.

Shortly after, I paused to take breath, when there ap-
peared before me the most horrible spectacle I ever
beheld. An enormous serpent stood in my path ; its
head elevated to the height of six feet, while its eyes
glared, and its forked tongue threatened me like a small
red flame. The scales behind its neck rose up, and
assumed the colour of polished gold ; it was at once
superb and terrible. For a moment I thought it must
be the Evil One, and it crossed my mind that here was
the garden of Eden, which was still inhabited by the
tempter of our first parents.

But after a few moments, my panic passed away,
and drawing my bow, I sent an arrow at the serpent,
which entered his throat and passed out just below his
scales. The creature took the hint, and immediately
wound himself off through the bushes. I thought it
best to leave the beautiful regions around the lake, and
made my way toward the hills in a direction oppo-
site to that in which I had come. I soon approached
an elevated knoll, upon the top of which were three
small palm trees.

It was now very hot, and being much fatigued, I
determined to pause here for rest and repose ; but as I
came near the place, I saw what I conceived to be an
old man sitting on a log beneath the trees. We did
not see each other, till I had come within twenty feet
of him. When he saw me, he started, aud made two
or three boimds, as if to run away, but he suddenly
fell to the ground, and seemed too feeble to arise. I
perceived, at once, that it was an orang-outang, and
that for some cause, he appeared to be extremely weak.
At Brsb, I prepared to pierce him with my spear, but
i^ creature looked at me in a kind ot bea^ectoii^ "^^li

KAEB A CITBIOTTS AOQITAHrrANOX. 41

and I ventured to go near him. He grinned at me
fiercely, and threatened me with his long hooked fingers.
His right arm hmig by his side as if it were broken and
useless.

I approached the creature gently, and he soon became
pacified. He looked so much like a human being, that
I could hardly think of treating him like a beast. He
had a piteous and melancholy expression of face, and it
really seemed as if he were about to speak, and implore
my assistance. Afber gazing at him for some time, I
went to the palm trees and sat down. In a few
moments the creature followed, and taking a station
about four yards off, sat down also. I now gave him a
piece of broiled fish which I had in my bag ; this he
took in his hand and ate greedily. This seemed to
establish a good understanding between us.

I now stretched myself out in the shade, and my
fiiend Orang did the same. After two hours, I got up
and walked away. I had been gone about half an
hour, when, as I was walking in the woods, I heard
something behind me*. I turned round, when behold,
my new acquaintance was there! He grinned from
ear to ear, which I suppose was meant for a smile, and
at the same time pointed to his lame arm with a look
of distress.

' I approached him, and feeling it, saw that one of
the bones was broken just above the wrist. I immedi-
ately prepared to perform the surgical operation of
setting it. I cut a number of small sticks which I
reduced to the form of splints ; these I placed around
the fractured limb, and tore a piece of cotton from my
shirt, which I placed over them. I then secured the
whole with a cord. It was evident that I gave the
creature some pain, and two or tTniee \.\TCifi»\i^^5^^u«L^^
A snappish growl or grunt. But \\» 'w^a -^^aca. *Ooai^

42 PTTBSUX HT JOVBSEY, ASB AH PTmSXTED.

he placed confidence in the operation, and he only
meant his ejaculations as expressing a desire that I
would hurt him as little as possihle. When the whole
thing was arranged, he held up his arm, and after
examining it carefully, seemed to approve of what I had
done.

It was now near sunset, and heing anxious to get rid
of my patient, I made a gesture to signify that he
should leave me. I then proceeded up the hills, still
involved in the forests. I continued to travel till near
midnight, for the moon was shining with great hril-
liancy, and I could find my way almost as well as
during the day.

I was not a little disturhed, however, to perceive a
dark figure in my rear, keeping at the distance of ahout
fifty paces. Sometimes it assumed the form of an aged
man, hent with years, and sometimes it had more the
appearance of a quadruped, ambling along upon three
legs. It was, of course, the orang-outang, who had
conceived a violent friendship for me. It is said that
love begets love, and accordingly I began to feel an affec-
tion for this poor beast. I therefore stopped, and he soon
came up. I determined to keep him with me as long as
I remained in the forest, thinking that he might per-
haps be useful.

I now began to make preparations for the night, by
gathering some leaves and branches of trees. Having
made myself a bed, I prepared another for Orang. I
then gave him a broiled fish and a piece of sago bread.
When he had eaten them, I made a sign for him to Ue
down, which he did, first scraping up a bunch of leaves
for a pillow. Having made my supper, I also retired,
and was soon asleep.

It was not long before I was awakened by a rude
shake of the ishoulder. Opening my ey^^,\ -^ctc-^-v^^

HOW X WAS BATED FBOM A TIGXB. 43

that my companion was in great alarm, and had conse-
quently disturbed my repose : I turned my eyes to the
point at which he was gazing in great terror, where,
beneath the thick bushes, I saw two eye-balls glowing
like coals of fire. I could also perceive the outline of a
tiger, crouching, sa if about to spring upon me. Quick
as thought, I lighted one of my matches, and applied
it to the dry leaves of my bed. As the blaze rose in
the air, the tiger slunk away, and my friend Orang,
uttering a soimd between a whistle and a scream, dis-
appeared also. I remained by my fire till morning, and
then proceeded on my journey.

My way was now between the ridges of the moim-
tains, yet I made considerable progress. I journeyed
several days, when at last I felt very weary. I had
also some symptoms of fever. Fearing that I was going
to be ill, I looked about for a shelter, which I soon
found in one of the numerous caverns of a mountain. I
made myself a bed with some difficulty, and lay down.
In a short time I was under the influence of a raging
fever. My mind wandered, and I became incapable of
rising. Though bewildered in mind, I became conscious
that I was attended by a nurse.

Somehow or other, 1 seemed to be at Sandy Plain,
and in my delirium I fancied my attendant to be no
other than James Grinnel, son of the toll-gate keeper,
and one of my companions. We used to call him Gnw,
and falling into my old habits, I bestowed that title
upon my nurse Orang. He several times brought me
water in a cocoa-nut shell, which I believe saved my
life. In three days I began to get better, and at the
end of a week I was able to resume my journey. I had
now adopted Grin as my servant, and felt myself to be
travelling in considerable style.
Keeping a north-westerly route, wiSl wo\^i^Si% *vk^^

44». HEETHra WITH AN ELEPHANT.

villages, which I could see on the lower plains, I pur-
sued my journey steadily for about twenty days. I was
now satisfied that I was in the Acheen country, and
was very anxious to get down to the coast, so as to avoid
the terrible Battas, whom I have already mentioned. But
it often happens that we plunge into the very dangers
we are seeking to avoid. One day, as we were travelling
through a wooded glade, lying between two mountain
ridges, we came suddenly upon an elephant, not twenty
paces from us. I turned aside ; but the animal saw me,
and immediately pursued me. I soon reached an open
space, with a single tree near the middle of it. I ran
across this space, and mounted the tree. The elephant
came up instantly, and putting his tusks against the
trunk, shook it violently. I lost my hold, and was
suddenly jerked to the ground.

I gave up all hope of escape, expecting to be trodden
to death by the enormous beast. To my utter amaze-
ment, the animal stood quite still, putting out his trunk
toward me in a very respectful manner. Altogether,
his look seemed to say that he was quite sorry for what
had happened. After a short space, he suddenly twined
his proboscis around my waist, whirled me in the air,
and set me down astride of his neck. Having waited a
few moments, he started off at a tolerable pace. He
kept his trunk turned up, as if to catch me in case there
was danger of my falling.

Striking into one of the paths of the forest, he pro-
ceeded more rapidly — Grin keeping up, with some diffi-
culty, behind. This creature sometimes went on two
legs, and sometimes on all fours, for his arm was now
quite recovered. He seemed in excellent spirits, and I
concluded that it was all right, though I had no idea
bow this droll adventure was to end.

A YILLAaE or THB BATTAS. 45

In about an hour we had descended from the moun-
tainSy and now reached a low valley ; at a short dis-
tance, I saw quite a settlement standing on the borders
of a river. The elephant made straight for this place,
and, just as we entered the town, Grin jumped up
behind tne, and held on with both arms by my waist. -

CHAPTEE VII.

Arrival at a village of the Battas. — Battle between Grin and the
Boys. — Continuation of our Journey. — An unexpected Dinner. —
A Terrible Adventure. — I am taken by Mountain Robbers. —
Preparations to eat Me. — Help from an unexpected Quarter. —
Escape. — Arrival at Acheen. — Ghreat Reception. — Fate of poor
Grin. — Description of Acheen.

•The village into which I was carried consisted of about
one himdred and fifty people. Like all the towns and
villages in Sumatra, it was built upon the banks of a
river, and, as I afterwards learned, belonged to the
kingdom of Acheeu, which occupies the north-western
coast of the island. The great mass of the inhabitants
belong to the tribe of Battas, who are at once the
most civilized and the most ferocious people in these
r^ons.

My triumphal entry into the village, mounted on an
elephant, with Grin squatting behind me, speedily drew
the attention of the people in the streets. A shout ran
from shanty to shanty, and a mob of men, women, boys,
and girls was soou collected in my train. The elephant
took no heed of this, but plodded straight on. Grin,
however, seemed to be somewhat uneasy, for one of the
boys hurled a stick at him, which whizzed very close
by his ears. He therefore turned round, and stood
upon all fours, and faced the rabble with an indignant
countenance.

46 BATTLE BETWEEir QBJS AliTD THE BOYS.

•

This was bad policy, for it provoked a general assault;
at least a dozen bojs and girls began to pick up sticks
and throw them at him. One of them struck Grin
across the ears, which seemed to be an insult not to
be endured. Quick as thought, he leaped from the
elephant, and fell in the very midst of the young assail-
ants. Giving a cuff to the little rascal who had thrown
the offensive missile, he sent him reeling to the ground;
he then bounded forward, and, at one spring, was again
seated upon the elephant.

But a storm of sticks and stones immediately fol-
lowed, and Grin, like an able general, saw the necessity
of rapid retreat. He accordingly made three or four
scratches in the thick hide of the elephant, which
seemed to be perfectly understood by that sagacious
animal. He flapped his enormous ears, brandished
his little tail, and then fell into a walloping trot, which
soon lefb the village and the enraged rabble in the
distance.

For at least six hours we continued at a round pace,
following a pretty straight course to the north-west.
If we deviated, it was to avoid some mountain range,
some marshy thicket, or impenetrable forest. It was
quite obvious that my conductor was acting upon some
settled plan. What this might be, I could not exactly
determine ; for, though I could talk Malay and Chinese,
yet I had not acquired the language of elephants.

However, one thing was very clear, this huge beast
was travelling in my direction, and, for some reason or
other, he liked my company. I had heard that the
Acheenese, who are a very ingenious people, had suc-
ceeded in taming elephants, and making them useful
as beasts of burden; and I thought it very likely
^J^t my fourȣooted friend was one of these, which

Air xiinEXPXOTSD DHOEB. 47

had strayed away, and was now returning to his master.
It will be seen in the end that this conjecture was
partially true.

We proceeded on our journey till late in the afber-
noon, when the elephant stopped in a little valley,
shaded with palm trees. He then put up his trunk,
evidently inviting me to descend, which I did. Grin
followed my example. The elephant went to the bank
of a river near by, and, plunging in, walked and rolled
about, occasionally spouting columns of water into the
air with his trunk, as if it were the pipe of a fire-
engine. Afber bathing for half an hour, he came to the
land, and made an enormous dinner of the large succu-
lent leaves and plants that grew along the margin of
the stream.

Grin mounted a cocoa-nut tree, and speedily threw
down a large nut. This I appropriated to myself. He,
however, descended, and threatened to take it from
me. For a moment, I expected a serious battle ; but
^hen the fellow saw my glittering blade ready for the
enooimter, he paused, then turned suddenly away,
moTmted the tree again, and having provided himself
with another cocoa-nut, crushed it upon a stone, and
quietly made his meal by himself.

Overpowered with fatigue, I speedily fell asleep, and
for a long time was buried in repose. At last I was
awakened by wild shrieks, which filled the whole forest.
It seemed to be midnight ; yet, though there was no
moon, the brilliant stars spread a faint light over the
scene. By this, I saw, at a little distance, about a
dozen dark figures wrestling with my friend Grin. He
seemed to have wrenched a club from one of his assail-
ants, and was laying about him with uncouth but fero-
douB menaces.

48 A TEBBIBLE ADTEKTUBE*

The men stood aloof for a moment, and Giin, seizing
the golden opportunity, bounded through the ring and
fled. In his escape he passed near to me, which in-
stantly drew his enemies upon me. Before I had time
to form any plan, either of escape or defence, I was
attacked, thrown to the groimd and pinioned, with
knees upon my chest, and rough hands at my throat.

I was very speedily bound with strong cords, fasten-
ing my arms to my sides. I was then permitted to
rise, and forced to come along with my captors. At a
little distance we found the elephant, which, it seems,
they had entrapped, and fastened to a tree by a cable
around one of his hind legs. The creature appeared
utterly subdued, and when they placed a noose around
the end of his trunk, drawing it smartly, so as evidently
to give him pain, he still made no resistance.

The language of these people I did not fully under-
stand; but, as they kept talking with each other, I
was not long in comprehending my position. My
captors were a band of Batta robbers, who infested the
mountains. It seems they had made an expedition
into the country aroimd the city of Acheen, and be-
sides carrying off a large amount of gold, silver, jewels,
and other goods, had stolen an elephant from one of
the rich planters, and forced him to carry them away
into the mountains. I was now able to understand
the whole story of the elephant which I had met in
the woods, and which had brought me so far on my
journey.

It seems the creature, afber being taken and carried

away, had escaped from his captors, and wandered in

the wilderness for some time. When he met me, his

social disposition and domestic habits led him to become

JDjr companion and friend. It appe^ed qI&q^ from the

PBEFABATIONB TO EAT ME. 49

conversation I heard, that Grin had been partially
tamed, and had taken advantage of some good oppor-
tunity to escape into the woods. Has wound in the
leg made him docile, and returned him to his old
habits of submission, when he fell in with me.

While I was thus able to read the story of the ele-
phant and orang-outang, I was at no great loss to im-
derstand the fate to which I was destined by my present
masters.

It may seem incredible that any human beings can
be so ferocious as to eat the flesh of their own race,
but the fact is certain, that this was once a common
practice with the Battas, a people living in the king-
dom of Acheen, and occupying the north-western part
of the island. Every man guilty of certain crimes was
doomed to be eaten alive. At the ceremony, the officers
of justice presided, and the person most injured cut the
first slice, seasoning it with salt, pepper, and citron.
Finally the chief magistrate cut off the head, and
carried it away in triumph.

This custom has been abandoned by the more civi-
lized Battas, but I knew it to be still practised by the
wild hordes of the momitains. If I had entertained
any doubts, they would have been dissipated by what
I heard, for I was able to gather from the chattering
around me, that my captors were only waiting till
night, when they intended to have their horrid revel.

I was left, bound hand and foot, during the day, and
the elephant also continued tied to his tree, though at
a considerable distance. My situation was indeed most
appalling. After the robbers had slept several hours,
they began to prepare for my execution. They ar-
ranged a inide table or platform of dried sticks and logs^
beneath a thick, massy group of coooa-ii\i\) \>x^^<&\ 'O^.

s

50 PBEPABATIOKS TO EAT ME.

I knew was intended for the feast, and here, I was to
be roasted and served up for the meal.

The night at last set in, and a blazing fire was kin-
dled near by. As the plot thickened, I saw the savages
dancing, strutting, and making wild gestures around
the festal board. At length, I was taken from the
ground and carried to the pile of sticks. I was so
firmly tied as to be utterly helpless. I had given up all
hope, and made no resistance. Being laid on the plat-
form, the savages seized some of the blazing fagots,
and, brandishing them over me, again began their horrid
dance.

At this moment, I heard a rustle in the eocoa-nut
trees above me. Looking up, I saw, reflecting the glare
of the fire, a fierce coimtenance, horrible to look upon.
I thought, at first, that I was losing my senses ; but
soon I discovered that the hideous image was no other
than Grin. He sat couched on his legs, with an enor-
mous cocoa-nut in his hands. I can hardly tell why,
but the presence of this creature inspired me with a
gleam of hope.

I made a slight movement to try the strength of the
cords that bound me. It seemed to me that I had the
power of Samson, and I determined not to yield my
life without an effort. Slipping one of my hands loose
from my side, I was able to get my knife, which was
hid in the 1^ of my trowsers. I had only time to cut
the cords which boimd my feet, when the savages came
aro\md me, each armed with a long glittering blade.
One hideous-looking fellow, apparently the chief, glared
on me as if he longed to begin his feast.

" So," thought I, " you are to have the first slice :

we shall soon see how this will end." The robber

Mtood a moment, preparing to stt^e hia blow, when

HELP FEOM JLir rmeXPEOTED QTTABTEB. 61

suddenly a terrible noise, half howl and half scream,
burst from the trees. Then fell a huge cocoa-nut,
plump on the head of the chief, dashing him to the
ground. At the same time, a gigantic figure was in the
midst of the astonished group, yelling and sweeping
about with ferocious gestures. The scene was too
frightful and too imaccountable for the nerves of the
Battas. They, naturally enough, imputed these sudden
events to supernatural agents, and fled in uncontrol-
lable terror into the woods. I soon cut my cords, re-
leased the elephant, mounted his back, and, with Grin
behind, we departed.

My sagacious carrier seemed perfectly to understand
the whole matter. Dark as it was, he threaded his way
in the woods, choosing the open glades, and spreading
out his legs into a kind of rolling gallop. He kept his
trunk turned back for me to hold on by. As to Grin,
he let him take care of himself. The poor fellow was
several times swept ofl^ by the bushes, and when this
happened, I fancied I could hear a gurgling laugh in
the huge bowels of the elephant.

By daylight, we had entered upon the open, level
country, and I could now see the ocean, spreading far
to the north. By noon, we reached a broad river, and
I could discover a large town on the opposite bank.
In plunged the elephant, and, first walking, and then
swimming, like a hogshead, he brought us to the other
shore. In a few minutes, we were in the main street of
Acheen ; and, once more, I was safe among a people who
acknowledged, in some degree at least, usages of civiliz-
ation.

Our arrival caused no little emotion among the
Acheenese. When my adventures were made known, I
became guite a hero. Hundreds oi 'geo^^d q^\£l^ \^ ^^^

b2

52 FATE OP POOR GEnr.

me ; among whom were the king and one of his fifty
wives. The owner of the elephant soon claimed his
property, but he had the grace to give me a kris, or
dagger, beautiftdly wrought, and set with a circle of
rubies at the hilt. Its value was at least a hundred
dollars. As to poor Grin, I put him in charge of the
captain of the American ship, " Bald Eagle," lying at
the mouth of the river, some twenty miles from the city,
for the stream is so shallow as to allow none but small
vessels to come up to the place.

I gave special directions to have him carried to an old
maiden aunt of mine at Sandy Plain, begging her to
take care of him for my sake. I wrote a full biography
of him ; told all his good qualities, and, as she was a
very good Christian woman, I fancied that she would
take a deep interest in his welfare. My aunt had a
small property, and it was generally thought she would
leave it to me. I had been accustomed to cultivate her
favour, and fancied this present of an orang-outang
would advance me greatly in her good graces.

But we often make mistakes where we deem our-
selves most acute and sagacious. So it chanced in this
case. A year after Grin was shipped, I got a letter from
home, telling me that he arrived safely, and was placed
under my aunt's care. For a time, the fellow behaved
well enough, but pretty soon he began to grow mischie-
vous. He had a great timi for mimicry, and was very
apt to do everything he saw my aimt do. He would
sit in a chair, put on her spectacles, open the Bible, and
appear to be reading it with great devotion. He would
often steal to my Aunt's side, when she was on her
knees at prayer, and do just as she did. When he was
caught in these tricks, he put on a very long face, and
pretended to he perfectly seriouB and sincere. All this

DESCHIPTION OP ACHEEB^. 63

was tolerated : but one Sabbath day, the fellow got one
of my aunt's old bonnets, put it on, and walked behind
her to meeting. She did not see him ; but, as she went
up the broad aisle, she observed the whole congregation
in a titter. Looking suddenly behind her, she beheld
Grin, walking on his hind legs, and very manifestly
imitating her air and gait. The fellow made oS as soon
as he saw the fire in my aunt's eye ; but the congrega-
tion could not get over it. Even the minister was on
the point of bursting into a laugh in the midst of the
sermon, and the nerves of the choir were so disturbed,
that they were obliged to omit three verses of the first
hymn.

This soon brought matters to a crisis, for it got into a
penny paper, and was the occasion of a great deal of
wicked fun. My aunt sent Grin to a museum, where
he soon after died ; but his skin was stuffed, and forms
one of the chief curiosities of the place. She then
made her will, in which she bequeathed me six cents,
giving the rest of her property to religious institutions !

I found the city of Acheen to contain about forty
thousand people, mostly natives. The houses are
chiefly of bamboo, set on poles, some ten or fifteen feet
high, along the margin of the river. There are many
trees among them, and, at a httle distance, the place
looks like a forest. The people are fond of the sea, and
many of them are pirates. They write on leaves of
bamboo, with the point of a dagger, beginning at the
bottom of the page.

They supply all Sumatra with fire-arms, which they
manufacture. Their filigree work is famous. They
are Mahometans in faith, and their city is the Mecca
of all the Sumatran worshippers of the Prophet. The
kingdom is independent, but was £ormex\y mws^ \siQt^

i

54 I SET OUT roB snraAPOBE.

extensive than at present, even claiming dominion over
the whole island.

I obtained my clocks, shipped from Bencoolen to this
place, and, in four weeks, sold them all. I now took
passage on an Acheen sloop for Singapore ; but it was a
long time before I reached that place, as farther chap-
ters of my story will show.

CHAPTER VIII.

I Bet out for Singapore, but go another Way. — Dangerous Position. —
— A Talk with Myself. — I am taken ashore at a small Island, and
sold to the Chief. — Became the Slave of King Mighty Mug. — ^I
escape, and arrive at Java. — ^Description of this great Island. —
Batavia. — Find Myself in a destitute Situation. — Low Spirits. —
Am revived by a Squirt Fish.

The little vessel in which I had embarked for Singa-
pore was manned by seven men, all natives of Acheen,
and a wild-looking set they were. Their eyes were
black, sparkling, and snaky ; their hair coarse, black,
and hanging in shaggy locks over their foreheads.
They were short and thin, but exceedingly active. The
schooner was rather a crazy craft, built of small poles,
somewhat flattened, and bound together, partly by in-
tertwined withes, and partly by bolts of copper. The
two sails were of matting, very much in the Chinese
fashion. It was quite curious, however, to see how well
the active sailors contrived to make this rickety vessel
gUde along over the waters. Something was happening
all the time to keep them employed; either a bolt
broke, a withe gave way, a leak increased, or a rent was
made in the canvas. Nevertheless, these incidents
and accidents were met by great skill and ingenuity,
and, for a time, no serious difficidties occurred.
At the end of three or four day a I "noticed that the

A DAiraEBOUB POSITION. 55

bourse of otir vessel, instead of being to the north-east,
as it ought to have been in order to reach Singapore,
was to the south-east, almost in the opposite direction.
When I spoke of this to the captain, he made me a
shuffling reply, and as I mentioned it the next day, he
told me to hold my tongue, that he was commander,
&c. I now began to feel great anxiety. It was very
clear that I had put myself in the power of a set of
knaves who might, perhaps, murder me for my money,
which was over a thousand dollars.

I nbw began to watch my shipmates, and soon per-
ceived that they were watching me also. We continued
our course, with light breezes for a week, so near to the
land that I could sometimes see the azure tops of the
mountains on our larboard side. I had no difficulty in
perceiving that we were running down the western
coast of Sumatra. Occasionally we passed by small
rocky islands on our right. I soon made up my mind
that I had got into one of the little pirate vessels
which issue from Acheen, and scour the coa§t in quest
of phmder. Of course, my situation was critical. If
I was in the hands of pirates, I could hardly expect
them to spare my life or my property. In this state
of things I had a good many thoughts, something like
the following :

" Ah, Gilbert Go-ahead, you once thought yourself
bom to good luck, but you are always getting in scrapes,
and are about the unluckiest dog that ever was heard of.
Why, since you landed at Singapore, you have had a
constant succession of adventures, dangers, accidents,
and disappointments. Oh, Gilbert, Gilbert, are you
not, after all your imagined Yankee caution, a careless,
imprudent, short-sighted ninny? How much better
would it have been for you to hiave sVa^ye^^ Vom^'^a.

56 A TALK WITH MYSELF.

Sandy Plain, than to have come off here to be plumped
into the sea by a band of half-naked Malays. Well,
well, when your hand is in the bear's mouth it's no
time to consider how it got there. When you are in a
trap, the question is how to get out. It's hard weather,
Gilbert, but don't give up the ship ! Remember how
you gave the slip 'to Ram de Bang, at Moc-moo ; how
you ran away from the Battas at Bang-bang ; how you
escaped the fiery serpent ; and how you dodged even
the wild robbers of the mountains. After all, courage
is the best shield in the hour of danger ; so, cheer up,
Gilbert, cheer up, and, perhaps, it may all come out
right at last."

Such was the general tenour of my reflections. I had,
indeed, no doubt of the bad intentions of the captain
and his men, but I had hope of meeting some English
or Dutch vessels going to Bencoolen, which might give
me a chance of escape. We had now been out to sea
ten days, when at evening, we drew in close to the
shore of a little island covered with low palm-trees. In
the dusk, I could see a few small huts, made of bamboo,
and as it grew dark, I could discern several lights.
We were soon in shallow water, and as I was looking
upon the preparations to land, two of the sailors rushed
suddenly upon me, threw me down, and by the aid of
two others, bound me hand and foot. I was then
taken by the whole troop to the shore, the party
wading up to their waists. We soon reached the vil-
lage, where a good deal of bustle had been occasioned
by our arrival. The place proved to be a settlement
belonging to a petty chief who owned the island, and
whose capital was about two miles distant. I was
carried thither, and, to make a long story short, I was
sold as a slave to the Bajah, for sixteen bag& of black

DESCETPTIOBT OE JATA. 67

pepper ! The bargain being consummated, my Acbeen
friends departed, taking all mj property with them. I
gave them a hearty good-bye in English, for when a
man is angry he is apt to speak his native tongue.

It is necessary that I hasten along, or, like Sally
St. John's courtship, my story will be without end. I
remained three weeks in this island, which I christened
Ladies' Finger, from its resemblance, in shape, to that
charming feature of the charming sex. When I publish
my map, it will be seen off the outer coast of Sumatra,
bearing about south-west by west from Bencoolen. It
is sufficient to say, that having been employed by the
Hajah, whose name was Mighty Mug, or something
very like it, in polishing his nose-rings, scaring away his
fleas, and fanning him while asleep from the influence
of opium, I swam out to a Dutch vessel on her way to
Java, and being received and kindly treated on board,
was landed at that island just six weeks and three days
after I had left Acheen.

Of all the islands in the Pacific, Java is one of the
most interesting, on account of its history, its produc-
tions, and its present state. It is about half the length
of Suniatra, and is somewhat more than a third as large.
Its extent is about equal to that of the State of New
York. It is separated from Sumatra by the Straits of
Sunda, seventy or eighty miles wide. It has a range
of volcanic mountains, from 1000 to 2000 feet high,
running through the centre. The marshy districts
aroimd the mouth of the rivers are cultivated with
rice. Coffee is raised in great quantities, and large
amoimts are shipped to the United States and to
Jiurope. Indigo, cotton, tobacco, Indian com, cinnamon,
olives, and other fruits, are produced. Wild animals
abound in the unsettled regions.

58 DESCEIPTTON OP JAVA — BATATIA.

The population is enormous, being estimsiited at
nearly ten millions! Most of them are the native
Malays, with some Chinese, Arabs, and others. There
are native princes in the interior, ruling over several
bands. These, however, are subject to the Dutch,
who hold dominion of the whole island, though
the entire number of Europeans does not exceed
17,000. The capital is Batavia, at the north-eastern
point. There are numerous manufactures ; but the
chief products are agricultural. The exports are valued
at thirty millions of dollars a year. I had often heard
of Java before I reached the island, but I had formed
no adequate idea of its vast population. Think of
almost one-half as many people as live in the whole
United States, cooped up in a territory not much more
extensive than the State of New York !

I found Batavia, at which place 1 landed, to be a con-
siderable city, containing about fifty or sixty thousand
inhabitants, three thousand being Europeans, chiefly
Dutch, one thousand Chinese, one thousand Arabs and
Moors, two thousand negro slaves, and the rest natives
of various tribes. Never have I seen a more motley
population. The climate is very hot, and many of the
natives go almost naked, especially the children. The
town is situated in a marshy spot at the mouth of the
Jacatra river, and is very unhealthy. It is intersected
by canals, like the towns in Holland. There is very
little difference in the heat between winter and summer.
The Dutch have built a stadt-house, numerous hos-
pitals, and several churches. The Mahometans have a
mosque, and the Chinese several temples. There is
also a newspaper published here. The trade of the
place is very extensive.

When I Gist landed and saw around me evidences of

DXSTITUTB SITTrATION—LOW SFIBITS. 59

civilization, I felt great relief. "Now," thought I,
** I shall get along very well : I have got clear of the
savages, and, of course, I shall find friends." But these
pleasant fancies soon faded away. I discovered that
money is a very necessary thing where people live in
good houses, and have churches, good clothes, and
many other good things. These are sold, not given
away. I went to a hotel, and told my story. The
landlord replied civilly, that he had no room for me. I
was totally destitute of money, and had no property
but the clothes I wore. Even my cap had heen given
me hy a sailor, after my arrival, in exchange for a ring
of coral I chanced to have on my finger. I walked
about the town for some time, looking at every dwell-
ing, and peeping into every man's face, hoping to catch
some idea that might answer my present turn, and
help me out of my difficulty. Thus I walked on for
some hours, and, at last, getting a little tired and out
of spirits, I sat down upon a log that lay partly on the
land and partly in the water. I was on the skirt of
the town, and some distance from any dwelling. It
was past mid-day, and the sun was very hot.

This, however, I did not mind. Sitting on the log,
all alone, I pursued my meditations for some time. My
usual cheerfulness had deserted me, and I was giving
way to despair, when a small fish, gliding along in the
crystal water, attracted my attention. He sauntered
about for some time, as if he had lost his way, or was
in search of something he could not find. He swept
ro\md and round, in a circle, several times, and seemed
in such a hother that I had a fellow-feeling for him, as
if his situation was really similar to my own. " Well,"
said I, mentally, " I have heard that Timour the
Tartar tooJr counsel of an ant, wlaen Yift ^q^» \s^^

60 AM EETEVED BT A SQUIET-FISH.

trouble, and perhaps Gilbert Go-ahead may find a
schoolmaster in a fish. At any rate, I will see what
the fellow will do. It must be pleasant to live in such
a beautiful element as this pure water, and be able to
go where you like only by a wag of the tail ; yet the
want of hands, feet, and legs, must be a considerable
drawback. It's true you save gloves, shoes, and pan-
taloons, and, to one like me, who has no money, this is
a valuable consideration. Yet, after all, I should hardly
like to be a fish, except for a short time, and by way of
experiment, to see how it feels.

Just as I had finished this reflection I saw my scaly
little friend gradually rise to the surface of the river.
When he had come up so that the rim of his lip was
visible above the water, he remained still for an instant,
put his body in a line with a fly on the log, a foot from
him, and then let drive a column of spray, which struck
the insect, and brought him half way down to the fish's
mouth. The latter leaped at him vigorously, but the
fly was a burly blue-bottle, and escaped, though by the
skin of his teeth. He soon came back, and took his
station nigh the spot he had occupied before. Again
the crafty sportsman drew near ; again took deliberate
aim, and again discharged his liquid arrow at his mark.
The fly escaped, as before, but he was well spattered,
and, whirling wide in the air, took a final departure.
But other flies were seen standing or creeping along the
side of the log, and the shining little sportsman made
shot after shot, though for a long time without success.
At last, a fat Dutch-built fly, greatly resembling the
burgomaster of Batavia, whom I had seen, was brought
down by the fish, and taken into his jaws at a snap.
Afi the fellow floated lazily away, I fancied I could see a

JOIN A COMPAITT OF BIUD-ITEST HTTNTEES. 61

smile of the greatest satisfaction beaming along the
golden tissues of his gills.

Small things have often great results. This little
creature, whose species is weU known in Java by the
name of the squirt-fish^ had set me a good example.
He failed nineteen times, but the twentieth was
crowned with success. I hailed the incident as an
omen of good, and, rising from my seat, departed for
the city.

CHAPTER IX.

Join a company of Bird-nest Hunters. — Jonmej across the Island
of Java. — The Seasons. — The Cultivation. — Green Com and
Home-sickness. — An Internal Sermon. — Description of the
Country. — The People. — Cost of a Wife, a House, and a Farm. —
A Bat-catcher. — Magnificent Birds. — Scenery among the Moun-
tains. — Dreadful Thunderstorm at night. — The Subdued Tiger. —
A Delicious Morning.— Beautiful Countiy. — The Upas Tree. —
Wild Animals. — The Ape, the Crocodile, and the Anaconda.

As I was passing along from the remote and somewhat
solitary quarter of the city, where I had received a
lesson in patience and perseverance from a fish, I
chanced to meet two persons dressed like sailors, one a
Malay and the other a Chinese. We fell into conver-
sation, and they told me that they were to start the
nerb day, to join a company of bird-nest hunters on
the south of the island. Without much reflection I
proposed to join them, and an arrangement was imme-
diately entered into. I was to receive thirty cents
»-day, and one-tenth part of the value of the nests I
might collect.

Perhaps all my readers are not aware that among the
many curious animals in the East India Islands, there
is a kind of swallow which bmlds its nest in clefts and

62 JOTTBKET AGBOSS JAT^

caves along the rocky coasts, and that these, being
formed partly of a glutinous matter, are collected and
sent to China, where they are greatly admired for sea-
soning soups. The object of our expedition was to col-
lect nests of this kind.

In two days our arrangements were made, and our
party, consisting of five persons, left Batavia, and pro-
ceeded in an easterly course toward the destined hunt-
ing-ground. The distance we were to travel was about
200 miles. Each man was supplied with a sack and a
small quantity of dried meat, some pounded maize, a
small bag of pepper mingled with salt, and about three
dollars in money. The main body of the hunters had
gone forward some three weeks before, in two small
vessels, accompanied by the Dutch commissioner, for it
must be understood that all these swallows, as well as
their nests, belong to the government. As these
vessels had the poles, hooks, ladders, ropes, and lines,
and all other equipments, the little party to which I
was attached were laden only with the articles that I
have mentioned.

We set out before sunrise, and for about an hour
travelled along the paved road which the Dutch have
constructed on the eastern bank of the Jacatra river.
When the sun came up we were on a considerable high-
land, from which we could see Batavia and the sur-
rounding country. The port appeared crowded with
vessels from all parts of the world, and among them
were a great number of Chinese junks. The low part
of the city seemed sunk in the mud, but the new
town, on the hills behind, had a pleasant appearance.

The seasons in this part of the world are divided

into the wet and dry. The wet season begins in

October, and extends to March. The dry from March

THE SEASOirS — THB .CJXJLTIVATIOS'. 63

to October. Two crops are produced each year. It
was now April, and the people were busy with their
farms and gardens. As we passed along, we saw them
employed, some in cultivating rice, and some in pro-
ducing sugar, while others were attending the planta-
tions of coffee.

It was curious to see the several crops in different
stages of progress, standing side by side. For instance,
we saw one little farmer ploughing a rice field. By the
side of it some men were sowing another. Next to this
they were transplanting the shoots. In another field
the grain was in flower. In another it had the yellow
hue, indicating its approach to ripeness ; and close by
this the old men, women, and children, were busied in
reaping still another.

The rice is cultivated in the low grounds. The
coffee plantations spread over the uplands, and seem to
occupy a great part of the country. The fruit grows
on a small tree, which attains the height of twelve or
fifteen feet, at the age of five years. In Java it is
planted in rows, between which there are rows of the
dadap tree, to shelter it from the excessive heat of the
sun. Coffee is, in fact, one of the great products of
Java, and a considerable portion of that which is used
in Europe and America is from this island.

As we continued our journey, we saw the inhabitants
occupied in the production of various other articles.
Some were cultivating sugar, some pepper, some to-
bacco, and some other things. I saw one nice field of
green com, which made me feel homesick. I plucked
off one ear, the seeds of which were in the milk, and ate
it down to the cob. It seemed to me the most delicious
morsel I had ever tasted. Oh, how did the sweet
visions of hjrgone com and beans xise ui^oii th^ Vs^'dfi^*

64 AN ISTEJLSAJa SBBMOir.

nation ! And then came to mind the old brown house
in which I was bom and brought up. There stood the
old elm in front, and on its extreme branches the nests
of the golden robins seemed dancing in the breeze. In
the rear was the home lot — the scene of many a
childish adventure still fresh in remembrance. At its
western extremity were the bars, which I had let down
and put up a hundred times for the cows or the old
mare, as they were taken &om the pasture or returned
to it. The shape of every bar was now present to my
mind, and one that was crooked, triangular, and trou-
blesome both to get in and get out of the socket which
held it up, seemed actually before me. And all these
imaginings were called up by a breakfast of green com !
I believe I was bom a philosopher, and therefore I fell
into long musings, in which I very naturally discovered
a remarkable resemblance between the bar of which I
have just spoken, and myself.

"What am I, after all" — such was my train of
thought — " but a crooked stick, so full of twists, and
turns, and knots, that it can't lie still ? Now, had I
been like other people — ^had I been the straight stick,
instead of the crooked one, in our family, I might have
been at this moment at home, helping my &iend sdong
in the world. I might have been safe, and comfprtable, \
and useful, instead of being an outcast and a wanderer
here in this out-of-the-way place called Java, trudging ^
on foot, with four little fellows who can't spell crucifix,
and that too on an expedition for the purpose of catch-
ing swallows' nests for Chinese broth! Well, well,
* What can't be cured must be endured.' * What's
bred in the bone can't be got out of the flesh.' ' Long
legs will run.' * A sitting hen can't keep company with
SW&U0W8.' 'I was bom to be a traveller, and there's

COST OF A WIFE, HOUSE, AJSTD FARM. 65

no help for it.' * What's done is done.' Here I am,
and now I may as well make the best of circum-
istances."

Such were my meditations as we continned onr walk
at an even and moderate pace. We had left the high
road, and were pursuing a kind of footpath winding
among villages and scattered farm-huts. All the dwell-
ings of the peasants were slight edifices, resting on
bamboo-pillars, the sides and roofs being thatched
with rattans, palmetto leaves, and wild grass. The beds
are of mats, with loose rolls of palmetto for pillows.
On these the people sleep without undressing. In the
larger houses there are slight wicker partitions.

The people, in their labours, appeared cheerful and
happy. The women and children were in the fields,
performing the lighter tasks. Buffaloes, instead of
oxen, were used for ploughing. In the gardens I saw
a great abundance of beans, sweet potatoes, yams, and
fruits. In some places there were plantations of pis-
tachio nuts, cinnamon, betel-leaf, &g, Java is exceed-
ingly rich in its soil, and is very productive. The price
of labour is about six cents a day for a man, and about
half as much for a woman. Many things are very
cheap. A farm, a house, a wife, a pair of bufialoes,
four goats, five pigs, a plough, a rake, a hoe, two
sickles, and all the furniture and fixtures of the esta-
blishment, may be bought for fifby dollars ! Rice is the
great article of food, and for ten cents a day a man
may live like a prince.

In the course of five hours, we had travelled fifteen
miles. The heat was now very great, and we therefore
got into the shade of some wild palmettos, that we
might take our rest. After a very moderate meal, we
lay down. I was soon asleep, bub auidsiiltj «:^^^^ «di^

F

66 A BAT-CATCHEB.

feeling something cold gliding across my throat, I
arose, and to my horror, saw that a snake ahout six
feet long had been crawling over me. The noise I
made waked up all my companions, who asked what
was the matter. I pointed to the serpent, who was
now hiding himself under the grass. '* Poh !" said one
of the Malays, " it is only a cat."

" A cat, indeed !" said I ; " what do you mean by call-
ing this serpent a cat P"

''Because it catches rats. These creatures are
favourites with us : they live in our houses, and we
ofben feed them with milk. They save us from the
rats, which are terrible thieves, and would gnaw our
houses down, if we had not these snakes to defend us."
Upon this, my companions composed themselves to
sleep. I could not, however, close my eyes. I sat
apart, and after a while, the serpent I had seen, put his
head out of the grass, and finding all quiet, silently
took himself off.

Toward evening our party arose, and we continued
our journey. The country grew less and less culti*
vated, and at night we found ourselves in a thick forest
of teak trees, not a single human habitation being in
sight. Here we spent the night : the next day we were
up early, and soon began to wind among the moun-
tains which occupy the middle portions of the island.
Between the ridges we found numerous settlements, the
people being in a rude state, but of a gentle character.
Some of the hill-sides and valleys were marked with
indescribable beauty and fertility. Here were the
abodes of countless flocks of doves, wild peacocks, and
birds of paradise. Never have I seen such gorgeous
displays, as among these feathered tribes. They were
Jittie Accustomed to be hunted, and many of them al-

SCEIHEET AMONG THE MOUKTAIKS. 67

lowed US to come quite near to them. They would sit
on the low branches of the trees, turning their necks,
burnished like rubies and emeralds, in the sun, as if on
purpose to excite our admiration. There were at least
ten kinds of doves, some of them not larger than
our robins, and they were the most gentle, amiable
little fellows I ever saw. It was quite curious to see
the doves here, away in this remote country, always
billing and cooing, and making love to one another,
just as they are in our country.

On the fourth day of our journey we reached the top
of the mountain ridge. On one side, the whole country
was covered with a kind of whitish mist, but on the
other, we could see the land sloping away to the sea.
The air was here bracing and delightful. On the left,
to the north, we had a view of the state of Surakarta,
which is still held by its native princes, though they
acknowledge the sovereignty of the Dutch. We could
distinctly trace the Solo, which is the chief river of
Java, and runs through the capital of this province to
the sea.

The scenery among the mountains is very wild. The
whole region seems to consist of volcanic ruins. The
rocks appear like melted stones and metal thrown out
of a furnace. Many of the peaks and ridges rise in
dark and shaggy masses, up to the clouds, and totally
without verdure. One night, we found it necessary to
sleep in a ravine between two long mountain ranges.
At sunset it threatened to rain, and therefore we made
our bed high up the slope of a cliff, rather than in
the bottom of the gorge, as this might be inundated,
in case of a heavy shower.

We were all fatigued by clambering up the rocks and
descending the shingling sides of t\ie mo\>sAa3^!EA \ ^s^

r 2

68 THUKDEESTOEM AT NIGHT.

therefore we soon fell asleep. About midnight^ we
were awakened by terrible noises, which seemed alike
to fill the air and the bowels of the earth. Suddenly
these sounds ceased, and the most death-like stillness
prevailed. The darkness was also intense. While we
all stood waiting to see what might happen, a sudden
flash of lightning filled the whole valley with an ocean
of light. The next instant the thunder broke in ter-
rible peals, shaking the hills, and seeming to rock them
to their very foundations.

In a few moments a deluge of water fell, and plung-
ing down the steep and jagged sides of the mountain,
foamed, fretted, and thundered to the bed of the ravine
below. Huge masses of the cliffs were forced from
their positions, and descended, with the maddened tor-
rents, down the gorge. One of them struck the
Chinese who was standing near me, and he disappeared
with the rushing mass, not even having time to speaJk
a word or utter a cry. The scene was indeed terrible,
for total darkness prevailed, except that occasionally a
stream of fire was struck out in the collision of the
rocks, and the waters, whitened into foam, flashed
dimly in the gulfs through which they sped. The roar
that filled the ear was rendered still more hideous by
the yells of wild animals, forced from their dens, and
either wounded or perhaps crushed by the descending
fragments. In the midst of this scene, which made
me almost sink to the earth bewildered and overcome,
I suddenly saw what appeared to be two balls of fire,
at no great distance. They evidently moved, and I
could see that they were approaching me.

I may as well say that I wished myself, just at that
moment, at Sandy Plain. Indeed, the thing was so
terrible, and so unaccountable, that at first I concluded

THE SUBDUED TIOEB. 69

it must be a dream. Nevertheless, it was a fearful fact.
There were the two balls of fire, and now they were
within six feet of me. My excited vision enabled me
to perceive that they were the eyes of a huge tiger,
which I had reason to suppose was about to spring
upon me. In this I was mistaken. The creature
approached me on his belly, creeping submissively, like
a cat or a dog, to my feet. Another flash of lightning
enabled me to see the huge beast lying behind me, in a
subdued and timid posture. It was evident that he had
been overcome with fright at the terrible convulsion of
nature, and, with the instinct which often leads the
most savage beast to crave the aid of man, he had now
come to put himself under my protection.

I took courage by this incident. " This creature is
taught by nature," said I, mentally, to seek shelter of
man in the hour of danger; and does not even a Higher
Intelligence call upon man himself to ask protection
from the Father of all, in similar emergencies ?" With
this thought I turned my mind to the only source of
true comfort in those perils which often attend us, and
when Gk)d alone can give us succour. I hardly need to
add, that my earnest prayer was answered by a degree
of relief and self-possession. Humbled by the displays
of His power around me— conscience-smitten at the
thought of my forgetfulness of One who weighs the very
mountains in a balance — while yet He watches over
each of His children — I committed myself to God, in
hopeful confidence of His protection.

In this condition I remained for three-foiu4;hs of an
hour, when the dawn began to break, and the waters
to subside. As the sun rose, the clouds had passed, the
torrents had subsided into rills, and the hoarse thunder
into plaintive babblings. The tiger TmA cice^\> \xq\sx\^

70 THE ITFAS TBES.

place at my feet, and I saw him, restored to liberty and
self-confidence, leaping along the ridges of the distant
cliffs. Setting out with my remaining companions, I
now pursued my way, and I was happy, at the approach
•of evening, to find that we had now left the mountain
region behind us. I had often heard of the terrible
thunderstorms in the mountains of Java, but their
actual terrors I had never imagined till I witnessed
them.

Our route now lay through fertile but uncultivated
districts, covered with rich forests of teak, palms of
various kinds, and numerous trees of which I had never
heard the name. Some of the woods were covered
with creeping plants, which hung in rich and flowering
festoons from tree to tree, making the whole scene
appear like the decorated palace of some fairy queen.
It was in this seeming paradise that I saw the deadly
upas, which is not a tree but a creeping shrub, so fatal
as to be imagined to kill the birds that fly over it. Ita
poison is, indeed, most intense, but the idea of its in-
fecting the air is fabulous.

The forests in this quarter are the feeding-ground of
numerous large quadrupeds, such as the rhinoceros,
wild buffalo, wild ox, wild hog, deer of various kinds,
Ac. &c. Here, too, the serpents, which are abundant
in Java, reach an enormous size, sometimes measuring
thirty feet in length. There are tigers, both black and
striped, with abundance of crocodiles, to be found in the
marshes. The orang-outang is also met with, though
it appears to be rare. Monkeys of various descriptions
teem in different parts of the island : in the wild dis-
tricts I have just described, they seem to people every
forest and valley.

We had no weapons for hun^g *, «n.d, though we

THE APE, CBOCODILE, AND AKACOin)A. 71

saw a great many of the animab I have just mentioned,
and had some adventures with them, these will hardly
require to be told. I must, however, give an account
of one little affair, half comedy and half tragedy, in
which a monkey, a crocodile, and a boa-constrictor
were the leading characters.

It was one morning that I stood beside a small lake,
fed by several rills from the mountains. The waters
were clear as crystal, and everything could be seen to
the very bottom. Stretching its limbs over this pond
was a gigantic teak tree, and in its thick, shining, ever-
green leaves, lay a huge boa, in an easy coil, taking his
morning nap. Above him was a powerful ape, of the
baboon species, a leering race of scamps, always bent
on mischief. Now, the ape, from his position, saw a
crocodile in the water, rising to the top, exactly beneath
the coil of the serpent. Quick as thought, he leaped
plump upon the snake, which fell with a plash into the
jaws of the crocodile. The ape saved himself by cling-
ing to a limb of the tree, but a battle royal immediately
began between the parties in the water. The serpent,
grasped in the middle by the crocodile, made the waters
boil with his furious contortions. Winding his folds
round and around the body of his antagonist, he dis-
abled his two fore legs, and, by his contractions, made
the scales and bones of the monster crack. The water
was speedily tinged with the blood of both combatants,
yet both were unwilHng to yield. They rolled over
and over, neither being able to obtain a decided advan-
tage. All this time the cause of the mischief was in
a state of the highest ecstasy. He leaped up and down
the branches of the tree, and several times, coming
close to the scene of the fight, shook the limbs, uttered
an elvish jell, and again frisked a\>o\i\i. ^ *0^^ 'scl^ ^

72 BESTTLT OF THE STBTT06LX.

ten minutes silence began to come over the scene. The
folds of the serpent were gradually relaxed, and, though
there were tremblings along the back, the head hung
lifeless in the water. The crocodile, also, was still;
and, though only the spines of his back were visible, it
was evident that he, too, was dead. The monkey now
perched himself on the lower limbs of the tree, close to
the dead bodies, and amused himself for ten minutes in
making all sorts of mocking faces at them. This seemed
to be adding insult to injury. One of my companions
was standing at a short distance, and, taking a stone
from the edge of the lake, he hurled it at the ape. He
was totally imprepared, and, as it struck him on the
side of the head, he was instantly toppled over, and
fell upon the crocodile. A few bounds, however, brought
him ashore, and, taking to the trees, he speedily disap-
peared among the thick branches.

CHAPTER X.

Description of the Coast. — Method of taking the Soup Bird^s-nests. —
Fearful Story of a Young Malay. — Set ont for Borneo, and arrive
at Sambas.

I AM afraid I am wearying my readers with my long
and tedious travels. I must therefore hasten on with
a rapid stride. The latter part of our journey was
sometimes through wooded and watered tracts, the
abode of immense numbers of bitterns, wild geese, and
ducks of strange forms and hues, and sometimes
through uplands, covered with forests, or subdued by
man, and made the scene of a rich garden-like culti*
vation.

At last we approached the coast, which consisted of a
rooky bander, terminating in lofty cMa, at whose bases

METHOD or TAKIlfG SOUP BTED'S-IOISTS. 73

the ocean thundered with a never-ceasing roar. Here,
at the south-eastern point of the island, was to be the
scene of our labours ; and here we found about fifty
persons engaged in collecting swallows' nests. In order
to understand this operation, the reader must imagine
the shore to consist of rocks, rising abruptly from
the sea to the height of three or four hundred feet.
These have been worn and hollowed into a thousand
fantastic forms by the sea: sometimes they hang in
beetling cliffs over the surges below ; sometimes they
present deep fissures, winding into the rocks ; and some-
times caverns, like chambers, are discovered, in which
the ebbing and flowing tides keep up their hoarse and
melancholy murmurs.

It is in the deep and dark fissures and excavations
that the swallows build their nests ; and here, in these
giddy and dangerous places, it is the business of the
nest-hunter to seek his treasures. To aid him in this
pursuit, he has ladders made of ropes, hooks, poles, and
various other implements. With these, he creeps down
the cliffs, and, in case of need, swings over them, often
being suspended in the air by his rope-ladder, while the
waters, three or four hundred feet below, seem fretting
and foaming in their impatience to receive and swallow
him up.

When I first swimg myself over one of these dizzy
precipices, and looked down to the distant waters, the
blood rushed to my heart so suddenly as almost to de-
prive me of my senses. I felt, indeed, as if I was lost,
but in a moment I recovered my self-possession. After
this I gradually became familiar with my dangerous
vocation, and was really delighted with it. The swal-
lows resemble our chimney swaUows, and are exceed-
ingly numerous. The nests are made oi ^^t*Oa ^\A ^

74 TEiJtFlTL STOET OP A TOTHSTO MALAY.

glutinous substance with which nature has abundantly
provided this curious bird. It seemed to me quite
tasteless, and I imagine the fondness of the Chinese for
it arises rather from fashion than any real flavour or
peculiar nutriment to be found in it.

I spent two months in nest-hunting, and, though
some accidents and incidents took place, nothing hap-
pened of sufficient interest to require notice here, with
one exception. There was a young Malay among our
party, who was noted for his courage and daring. He
was a smooth, oily, little man, about two-and-twenty
years of age. His hair was black as jet, and he wore it
in a very full and bushy fashion. This fellow was one
day hanging over the cliff, at least three hundred feet
above the water, being suspended by a single rope.
This was held by three men above. He chanced to look
up, and he saw that the rope just over his head, having
been rubbed across the edge of a sharp rock, was nearly
cut in two. One of the three strands was already
severed, and another was so fretted as to appear to be
upon the point of breaking. His situation was terrible.
He shook the rope, to intimate to the men above that
he desired to be drawn up, but without the slightest
expectation of being saved. He closed his eyes, to keep
out the horrors of his situation. What was his asto-
nishment, at length, to find liimself on the height
above ! The last strand of the rope alone remained, but
that was sufficient to save him. Such, however, was the
shock he had received, that his hair began to turn white
at the roots, and, in a short time, his bushy, black
tresses were all as white as those of a man of seventy.
The fellow was a sight to see ; and ever after he went
by the name of Cotton-head.

Having worked out my time at nest-hunting, I took

DiscMPnoir OE bobiteo. 75

advantage of an opportunity offered by a vessel going to
China, and sailed for Borneo, which lies north of Java.
The distance is about three hundred miles between the
two islands, but as we were bound to Sambas, on the
west coast, our voyage was, at least, a thousand miles.
We were four weeks in performing it, but the weather
was delightM, and, as we sailed tranquilly along, I en<^
joyed it very much. I had, in truth, become a bttle
tired of wandering, and getting into all sorts of strange
adventures and awkward difl&culties. It now seemed to
me that it would be very agreeable to go home and
settle down in Sandy Plain, as a contented and useful
member of society. But, alas ! my restless and head-
long propensities were not yet wholly wrought out of
me, and new dangers, accidents, and escapes were
before me.

CHAPTER XI.

DescriptJon of Borneo. — ^Minerals. — Vegetable Products. — Animalfl.
— Inhabitants. — The Dyaks. — Labnan, Sarawak, and Sir James
Brooke. — Other Tribes. — Borneo Proper. — The Soolooks. — ^Pro-
ducts of this Country. — Description of Sambas. — I return to
Singapore. — Disagreeable Reflections. — ^Address to a Clock. — I
determine to go to China.

BoBNEO is altogether a very remarkable place. It is
the largest island in the world, excepting only New
Holland. It is eight hundred miles long, and seven
hundred wide, and contains about seven times as much
land as the whole state of New York. The number of
inhabitants is between three and four millions. Along
the coast, the land is generally low and muddy ; in the
interior, there are many hills and extensive plains, with
several ranges of mountains, some of which rise to the
height of thirteen thousand five ^mniOkie^ ift^\». ^YtiKt'Si

76 MIKEEALS — ^VEGETABLE PRODUCTS — AJHUALB.

are upwards of one hundred rivers, many of them
navigable.

This island is rich in minerals. Diamonds are found
in several places, especially in Landak. One has been
found here worth a million of dollars, and was the pro-
perty of a petty chief in the neighbourhood. Antimony,
iron, and tin are also obtained in abundance. Lying
under the equator, the chmate is hot. The soil is
generally fertile, producing various trees, among which
are ebony, iron-wood, mangrove, cocoa, betel, cinnamon,
and sago. The camphor tree is a native, and grows to
a great height, being sometimes sixteen feet in circum-
ference. The gum is obtained in the centre of the
trunk, in the same manner as in Sumatra, which I have
already described. Bice, maize, sugar-cane, plantain,
and many other tropical fruits, are cultivated. Here, as
also in other islands in this quarter, is the gutta-percha
tree, whose gum is one of the most curious and useful
products of the vegetable kingdom. It resembles India-
rubber, but it is harder, and, for many piu-poses, much
superior.

The animal wonders of this island are as varied and
strange as those of Sumatra. The elephant, rhinoceros,
and leopard are confined to the north-eastern comer of
the island. The wild ox and troops of wild hogs inhabit
the forests. In the thickets, which are here called
jungles, there is an endless variety of apes and monkeys.
Among these is a queer little fellow, without any sign
of a tail, and covered with glossy brown hair. He is
three feet high, and has an aquiline nose, sticking out
an inch and a half from his face. Here also is the
orang-outang, as tall and strong as a man. There are
several kinds of deer, small shaggy bears not larger than
racoons, and tapirs three times a& laxge as ho^s. The

INHABITANTS — THE DYAES. 77

marshes produce enormous serpents, and a variety of
water-fowls, among which are herons five feet in length.
The sea-shores abound with turtles, fish, and oysters.
Along the coasts, numerous spermaceti whales are
caught by English fishermen.

The inhabitants of Borneo consist of various races.
The Dyaks are a savage people, believed to be the
aborigines, and are scattered in small bands over the
whole island. They are of middle size, with straight,
black hair, black eyes, but without beard. The women
are ofben very good looking, and are mild and amiable.
Many of them are married to Chinese settled in the
island. Kice is the principal food of the Dyaks, but
they eat pork, fish, deer and other wild animals, which
they shoot by means of arrows, blown through tubes.
They also use bows and arrows, the latter being some-
times poisoned. Many of them reside in canoes along
the shore; others dwell in houses raised upon posts,
stuck in the mud. They have no towns, but usually
assemble in small groups, or camps of from two to twelve
huts. Sometimes, however, several tribes assemble in
villages, along the coast and rivers, and are governed
by a single chief; but the interior tribes are inde-
pendent.

The more civilized have adopted Mahometanism ; but
the savages believe in a future state where a great part
of their enjoyment will consist in owning slaves. They
believe, if they can kill a man and get his head, he will
become their slave in the other world. Hence, a system
of murder has spread among these tribes. No one can
marry, without the head of some one having been ob-
tained by himself or his Mends. At the funerals of
persons of consequence, or when treaties of peace acQ
made between cliiefs, slaves aui "pxiaoTaLSt^ ^^ ^^vi'w^-

78 LiLBUAK, 8ABAWAE, AKD SIB JAMES BBOOKE.

tated in order to obtain these valued trophies. Piratical
expeditions are often undertaken for no other purpose
than to obtain the heads of those who may be captured.
These hideous relics are dried in the sun, and then
hung up in the houses !

Beside the Djaks, there are various other tribes ;
some resemble negroes, and have woolly hair. The
west coast is occupied by Malays, Chinese, and Dutch
colonists. In the north-west there are some descen-
dants of Moors, who emigrated hither from Hindostan.
At the north there are bands of people from various
neighbouring countries. Along the shores there are
several tribes, whose origin is unknown, living always
in canoes, and moving about from place to place.

On the north-west there is a Malay kingdom, governed
by a sultan, who affects great dignity. This is called
Borneo Proper, the capital being Borneo or Brauni, with
22,000 inhabitants. The people here have some arts,
and considerable trade. They cast excellent cannon,
and manufacture arms and ammunition. At the pre-
sent time, this country appears to be under the super-
intendence of Great Britain, which has founded a colony
in this quarter, through the management of Sir James
Brooke. This individual first got possession of Labuan,
a small island on the north coast, and then was made
Eajah of Sarawak, a large district north of Borneo Pro-
per, by the sultan of that country. His capital, called
Sarawak, has 12,000 inhabitants, some being Chinese,
and others of the various tribes of Borneo. This
British establishment is likely to effect great changes in
this quarter.

There are several settlements in the north-east, and
the contiguous island, made by people called Soolooks.

I>£8C2IPTI0N 07 SAMBAfl. 79

The country abounds in lofty forests and plidns, covered
with wild cattle, introduced by the Spaniards two hun-
dred years ago. Gold, iron, and tin ore are obtained
here, being found upon the surface of the ground. Sago,
rice, betel-nut, camphor, wax, pepper, cinnamon, tortoise-
shell, swallows' nests, and various kinds of woods, with
canes and rattans, are exported from this r^on. On
the eastern coast there are several small states, some of
which are populous.

On the west coast the Dutch have two settlements,
Sambas and Pontianak, about eighty miles apart. The
former is the place where I arrived after leaving Java.
I found it meanly built, without a single habitation of
stone, or any other substantial material. Even the
government ofl&cers live in low wooden buildings, covered
with thatch. The huts of the natives are raised on
posts, the people ascending to them by ladders, which
are taken up at night. There are also many miserable
dwellings built upon floats in the river. The Dutch
are few in number ; the other inhabitants are made up
of Chinese, Malays, and various other races gathered
from other parts of the island, and the neighbouring
shores of Asia.

My adventures in Borneo were in no respect remark-
able. I heard a great deal about the proceedings of
Sir James Brooke, at Labuan and in the adjacent terri-
tories of Sarawak, where he became rajah, and lived like
a prince. He had some battles with the pirates which
infest the coast, and at last, after many, succeeded
in suppressing them. I should have been glad to
have visited this British settlement, but I had no clocks
to sell, and I was very anxious to get back to Singapore,
where I had still a pretty good stock. Having remained

80 ADSBSSS TO A CLOCK.

at Sambas about four weeks, I embarked on board a
Chinese junk, and after a voyage of twenty-one days, we
reached Singapore.

I found, on my return to Singapore, all my clocks in
good order, but I had some disagreeable subjects of re-
flection. I had now been absent from home more
than a year ; I had made great exertions and suffered
many hardships, and had also got rid of more than half
my property ; and here I was, without a ceut in my
pocket. This was rather discouraging, especially as I
was very strongly inclined to the opinion that my mis-
fortunes were the result of my own want of prudence,
reflection, and care.

It seemed to be high time that I should now adopt
a different line of conduct. One day, as I sat in my
room, I took one of my clocks, wound it up, and ad-
dressed it as follows : " Mr. Clock, for the present, be
so kind as to consider yourself as one Gilbeet Go-
ahead, while I play the schoolmaster and give you a
few lessons. Whatever you may think of yourseli^
Gilbert, you are a long, lean, lank,unlucky fellow. You
think yourself shrewd, sharp, and up to almost every-
thing ; yet here, among nations of barbarians, you have
been the sport of fortune, and have come back with an
empty purse; you have been robbed, imprisoned, hunted,
chased, and driven from country to country ; you have
been beset by venomous serpents, have come near being
roasted alive by savages, have been carried off by a
hippopotamus, and only saved your life by the kind
services of an orang-outang.

" Oh Gilbert, Gilbert ! what will become of you, if

you go on at this rate ? Don't make excuses : you

are a careless, headlong, break-neck fellow. The best

way for jou is to give up your roving propensities, sell

ABDXE8S lO JL CLOCi:. SI

out jour do^s, and go straight ba^ to Sandy Plains
Th€TO joa should settie down, be industiious, honesty
and faithful, and yoo- will be a Udeful and respected
citizen Hke your &ther befoire yoa« Don^t speak, Gil-'
berL Tot, tut, not a word ! I know very well what
yon would say. Ton would pretend that you wanted
e^erience ; ihat your hnlis have been those of youth
and ambition. Perhi^ you will promise to do better
hereafter.

^ Alas, my firiend, it is very easy to make promiaeei
and very easy to break them. However, I will not be
hard with you, my boy. Here you are, on the other
side of the world ; and, with even your long legs, you
cannot get home in a huny. Besides, you have got
some clocks left, and if you are wise and discreet, you
may do something yet. Let us calculate : you have
eighty-one clocks left ; these, at thirty dollars apiece,
would bring two thousand four hundred and thirty
dollars ; a pretty good sum, after all. Well, weU, there
is some hope of you, Master Gilbert, if you will take
the right tack. Sell out these clocks as soon as possible,
and then go home ; but keep in mind your dangerous
propensity to run off on new projects, to engage in wild
adventures, to look before you leap.'*

Having given myself this excellent advice, I wont
forth determined to follow it to the letter. About throe
days after, I was walking along upon the wharf, by the
side of which I saw a Chinese jimk. I went on board,
where I found the supercargo, a smooth, yellow, bulbous,
little man, not more than five feet high. I fell into
conversation with him, and found that he was making
up a cargo for the city of Nankin. Forgetting all my
prudent resolves, I made a bargain on the spot, to have
him take me and my clocks along mt\i\)mk« ^bl^^^w^

a

1

82 DOUBTS or THE TEBACITT OF MY 8T0BY.

sistent as my conduct may appear in the eyes of my
readers, I may as well confess the truth. In four days,
I was on board the junk, with all my property, and
bound for the Celestial Empire.

CHAPTER XII.

Painful Doubts of the Veracity of my Story. — Dialogue with my
Mother. — ^Evidence of my amiable Disposition. — Mr. Prim*S
Letter.

Feom this point, I began a new series of adventures ;
but I hesitated a long time before I concluded to com-
mit them to the eyes of the public. About this time,
I met one of my acquaintances, who had come direct
from New York in an American vessel. He told me
that he had read some accounts of my adventures in
the papers, and that there was a great dispute whether
the whole story was not a hoax. He told me that he
was fully of that opinion himself. He especially ridi-
culed my account of the ride on the hippopotamus, and
the biographical sketches of poor Grin.

This touched me to the quick, for, whatever may be
my faults, I do not like to be accused of dealing in
round plump fibs. I parted with my frien^ with the
remark that ignorance is ofben the father of unbelief ;
and I have since consoled myself with the reflection
that other great travellers, before my time, have been
made the subjects of ridicule, even while telling the
truth, because they gave accounts of things that had
not been heard of before. I recollected the instance of
Le Vaillant, a French traveller in Africa, who was
called a romancer because he said he killed a came-
lopard. They would not believe him, even when he
ebowed tiiem iHie skin. So it ^waA m\^ BtM^^yrho

DIALOGUE WITH MY MOTHXB. 83

went into Abyssinia, and described the people as cutting
slices of steak out of the side of an ox, then covering up
the place with the skin, and driving the beast along.
In both these cases, it has been found, by subsequent
travellers, that the authors told the truth, and that the
witty sneers of wags and wiseacres were only the idle
offspring of ignorance and conceit.

Now obstinacy was never my failing ; and, for that
matter, it was nev^ the failing of my family. My
father was a good, easy man, believing what people
told him, and doing whatever they asked, especially if
they called him good Gilbert, honest Gilbert, and the
like. My mother, whose maiden name was Tight, and
was third cousin to one of the firm of Dig and Pinch,
I forget which, was what you may call a smart woman,
and ruled the roost, not in the kitchen only, but in
matters and things in general. She had a sort of
masculine pride, which led her to desire power, or at
least to be thought to possess it. Nevertheless, my
mother, like the rest of her amiable sex, sometimes
changed her mind.

I remember a dozen instances like the following,
which I will put in the form of a dialogue.

OUbert, Mother, may I go a-fishing with Ben
Hooker this afbemoon ?

Mother, No ! indeed, you sha'n't.

O, Why not, mother ?

M, Because.

G, Because why ?

M, Hold your tongue!

G. Oh, dear! Oh, dear! Oh, I've pricked my
fing^!

M, Well, you've done it a-purpoae. Tlast^, \aiBJ^
that! (CHves me a box wUhfime nailc.*)

o2

84 DIALOGUE WITH MY MOTHEB.

G, Boo-hoo — ^boo-hoo — ^boo-o-o-o-o !

M, Stop that noise, or I'll send you to bed !

G. Boo — o— ou — ou — ou!

M, Go to bed!

G. Well, I'll go to bed, but do put a rag round my
finger first,

M, Let me see your finger.

G. There.

M. Oh! there's blood on it. Why didn't you
tell me ?

G. I did tell you.

M, No, you didn't.

G. 1 did.

M, You didn't ; hold your tongue ! There, I have
put some rum and sugar on it.

G. Thank you, mother. I always like rum and
sugar ; it makes the plaguy thing smart, but it tastes
good. (I hegin to such the rag, and mother begins to
smile.)

M, Now, go along.

G, Where's my hook and line, mother ?

Jf. In the table-drawer, there.

G, Well, mother, my finger's sore, you know ; so,
do fix this lead on, and just slip the cork over the line.
{Mother does m I request,) All's right, now.
There's Ben Hooker, coming up the walk! I'm
going, mother !

M. Well, go.'long !

G, I'm going a-fishing with Ben Hooker ?

-3f. Go where you please, only don't bother me.

G, Well, jest box my ears first !

M, I will, if you don't go away — what a saucy
chatterbox I
O. Do send me to bed, motlier\

EYIDENCE 01' HY AMIABLE DISFOSITIOIT. 85

Here mother turns away, pretending not to hear me
— though I see a smile round the comer of her face,
and notice symptoms of a chuckle in the tremulous
movement of her short-gown, just above the waist. So
my mother was fairly beat — though, had I told her so,
she would have gone to the stake, like John Bogers
and his family, rather than have confessed it.

Now, gentle reader, such being the characteristics of
my venerable parents, will you not consider it pardon*
able in me, also, to show a little amiable condescension P
Although some persons have expressed doubts as to the
accuracy of my travels, set forth in the public prints ;
and, considering these to be reflections upon my honour,
I had very properly determined not to continue the
publication of my adventures. Still, inasmuch as I am
informed by the following letter, that some people,
including at least one schoolmaster, believe me to be
an honest and faithful chronicler, and inasmuch as,
like my mother, I am of a yielding disposition, I have
concluded to continue my account.

To the Editors of the I^. T, Weekhf Museum,

Mammoth Oayb, Kentttokt, July — .

GENTLEMETf, — I Understand that some people have
sneered at Gilbert Go-ahead's Travels, which have
appeared in your periodical, because there are some big
stories in them. For this reason the author has got
offended, and wont go on with his accoimt. I'm sorry
for it. I was greatly amused with Gilbert, and do not
hesitate to believe every word of his narration, or, at
least, all that he says which is possible and probable,
when we consider what a harem-scarem kind of fellow
he is. and the strange countries in w\i\(i\L Ykft V^a ^Jt^^

86 HB. PBni's LETTSB.

yelled. Now, I am actnall j writmg from the moutli of
Mammoth Cave, where I have dined this day, with
seventeen other people. I have explored this wonderful
work of nature to the distance of nine miles, and yet
have not heen to the end of it ! I have seen what is
called the Devil's Dining Koom, and the Haunted
Chamber ; I have seen the stream covered with ever-
lasting darkness, where fishes, having no use for sight,
are in fact without eyes; I have seen, in this dim
solitude, apartments opening one into another, like the
halls of an Eastern castle, and lighted by torches,
exceeding even Aladdin's enchanted palaces, in their
glittering magnificence. Now, what is there in Gilbert
Go-ahead's stories so wonderful as all this ?

Messrs. Editors, I do not think it well to believe
everything we hear, but it is certainly not well to re-
ject what is merely new. Some people are very credu-
lous in one direction, and very incredulous in others.
I know a man who believes every word of Sinbad the
Sailor, Jack the Giant Eliller, and Puss in Boots, and
has made his children get them all by heart. They
insist upon it that " Hei-diddle-diddle !" is a historical
narrative ; that long, long ago — somewhere about the
time of the flood — there actually was a cat in a fiddle,
and a certain cow, on a certain day, did jump entirely
over the moon. I'm not sure that they couldn't tell you
the name of the owner, and perhaps the breed of the
beast ; and yet this family don't believe a word about
geology. When you tell them of the bones of animals
dug out of the earth, such as are not in existence
now — the mastodon, the plesiosaurus, the petrodactyle,
&c, — they say it is all book-gammon, or philosophical
jugglery.

Thus it 18 with many persons *, they are naturally

indiiied to pat fioth in the inaqpossibk, while tbey r^^ot
what is ootain, proTided ^ is coatnr j to their old
habitB of thought. And to apply this to the m»tt(^
in hand: I heg to express it as my <^[anion that Mr«
Go-ahead's travels oii^ht not to he suppressed on the
ground of want of fidelity to the tiuth. At least, they
gire correct descriptions of the animals, the trees, the
people, and the scenery of the countries through which
he passes ; and helieving them to he instructive as well
as amusing, I wish you to send him this letter, and b<^
him to ccmtinue the puhlication of his adventures.

I am, with great respect,

John Piiuc, Schoolmaster.

Well, this is the letter sent me hy the publishers {
and though, as I say, I had determined never to print
one word more about my travels, I herewith send a
continuation of the story, and hope it will fulfil the
expectations of my Mends.

CHAPTER XIII.

Acoount of our Voyage toward China. — The China Sea. — The
Anambas Isles. — A Typhoon. — ^A Fearftil Night. — Shipwreck.—
The Vessel is abandoned. — Hard Times Ashore. — Take an
Account of Stock. — Good Resolutions, and a Breakfast of MusRols.
— Set off for the Interior of the Country. — My Tavern. — A Con-
gregation of Idolators. — Camboja. — Arrival at Saigon. — Descrip-
tion of this City. — Curious Dream. — Colloquy with a Lobster. —
More about Saigon, and the Cambojans.

In a late chapter, I said that I had set out from Singa-
pore for Chuia. The voyage, I may remark, is all the
way on the Pacific Ocean, with its hays and straits.
Its general direction is north-eaat^ \»i\» Q>^ ^ve^iN^^ ^\

I

88 THE CHINA SEA — ^A TTPHOOK.

I

rather our junk, in working its way over the water,
went at all points of the compass.

The weather was generally hot and the winds light,
30 that we glided on at a snail's pace. In two weeks
we had reached the China Sea, and passing near the
Anamhas Isles, we stopped and went ashore. Here we
found a number of fishermen and bird-catchers — and a
queer-looking set they were. They seemed to be a
kind of compound — ^part bird, part fish, and part man.
They would dive, and swim, and float, as if they actually
belonged to the sea. We got a supper of fish, and I
tried to sell one of them a clock, oflering to take birds*
nests and shells in return. The man conceived it to be
an idol, or some piece of sorcery, and had I indulged
this fancy he would have bought it ; but when I ex-
plained that it was a time-piece, he turned on his heel,
exclaiming, " What have I to do with time ?"

We kept on our way, but in about a week we were
beset by a hurricane, which is here called a typhoon.
Unluckily we were near the coast, and the wind, being
from the east, drove us toward the land. The tempest
was preceded by a dead calm and a brazen look all over
head, with a black line around the horizon. As the
evening came on, we began to roll like a barrel ; yet
there was not a breath of wind. Our little China cap-
tain saw that mischief was brewing, and clewed up
his canvas. All the sailors and passengers chattered
like a flock of parrots.

By and by we saw, to the east, that the sea was
covered with foam, white as milk. In a moment we
were struck by the tempest, and our junk walloped
over on her beam-ends. I was prepared for this, and
was on the upper side as she went over. I held on to
the ropes said bulwarks, as did some twenty of my

A FBABFTJL KIGHT — SHIFWBECK. 89

companions. For a short time our ship lay still, as if
struck with death; but soon she rose and fell on the
waves, which were now rolling with terrible energy.
Night had set in, and the darkness was intense, except
80 far as the phosphoric flashes of the waves gave us
an occasional glimpse into the bosom of the deep, or an
outline of our staggering and helpless vessel.

I had become used to situations of danger, and my
nerves were pretty well braced against the ordinary
mischances of the sea; but, altogether, the scene
around me now was so terrible — so grand, yet so
fearful — ^that I closed my eyes involuntarily, and, with
a calm and humble mind, committed myself to God.

Several hours passed, during which my ears were
filled by the roar of the wind lashing the billows, and
the continual thumping of the ship by the waves,
sounding like dischai^es of artillery. Suddenly the
wind lulled, the sky cleared, and the stars shone with
a strange brilliancy over the sea ; but our vessel still
lay on her beam-ends, and it was clear that she had no
intention of righting. And now new dangers appeared :
all around the water seemed boiling as if in a pot. It
was obvious we were in the midst of reefs ; and, by the
light of the dawning day, we could see, at a little dis-
tance, the dark forms of cliffs, seeming like giants ready
to devour us. Suddenly there was a thump, and then
another, and then a stunning crash, which seemed for
a moment to take away our senses.

When we recovered, we perceived that our vessel had
been forced on the rocks by the waves, and no hope of
her holding together seemed to be afforded. She was
at one moment lifted up by the billows, and then let
down, as if the sea were in a rage, and sought to pound
her to pieces. The poor old thing gto^iXk!^ «cA oj^^-^SiBJi^

90 THE VESSEL IS JLBAKD0I9ED.

as if she had a fit of the colic, and our little Chinese
captain absolutely shed tears at her agonies.

The sailors behaved pretty well, and made strenuous
efforts to get the junk off. But at last they despaired,
and it was curious to notice their conduct. Most of
them got their clothes, trinkets, and stock of cash, each
tying them up in a handkerchief, and preparing to
swim ashore. One or two lost all courage, and threw
themselves upon the deck, wailing like children. A
little Chinese merchant-passenger wedged himself in
between the bulwark and a water-cask, where I saw
him holding an idol with his knees, and burning some
gilt paper before it. Every man on board, except him,
left the ship, and these all succeeded in climbing ashore
upon the rocks.

Night soon set in, and the storm began again to
sweep over the sea. The coast upon which we had
landed was rocky, and bore no traces of being inhabited.
For myself, as soon as I got out of the reach of the
spray, which came dashing along the shore, covering
it at intervals with a white cloud, I sat down, and,
after returning thanks to Heaven for my deliverance,
stretched myself out on the bare ground, and fell asleep.
When I awoke, it was broad day, but the sky was
cloudy, and the sea was covered with mist. I saw
nothing of my companions, and all my endeavours to.
find them were fruitless. I shouted aloud, I got upon
the top of a high rock, I endeavoured to discover and
to follow their track, but all in vain. At last, the dis-
mal consciousness of my forlorn situation came full
upon my mind. Here I was, on an unknown and wild
coast, without money, and without any other clothes
than those on my back. I had no other weapon than
a tfwo-hladed knife, and all my property beside, con-

TAKE AK ACCOVKT OE STOCK. 91

sisted of a box of wet matches, three fish-hooks, about
half a New York Herald, a gimblet with a split handle,
and the locket, which I have already mentioned, around
my neck, containing a daguerreotype likeness of one of
my friends at Sandy Plain.

What a stock in trade for one in my situation ! After
holding counsel with myself about an hour, I made up
my mind not to despair. I resolved to look about and
adopt that line of conduct which circumstances might
dictate. I foimd myself very hungry, and began to
look for something to satisfy my appetite. I soon dis-
covered plenty of mussels and small crabs, bedded in
the sea-weed between the rocks, and made a capital
meal. I then gathered a quantity of them, and tied
them up in some long leaves, and set off toward the
interior of the country.

After passing a succession of reddish-brown ridges,
rising some seven or eight hundred feet above the level
of the sea, I came to a wooded region, through which
I travelled for a whole day. At evening I found myself
in a small, open plain, and at a little distance, by the
twilight, I saw a building. I approached it cautiously,
and discovered it to be a temple or pagoda, partly in
ruins. Everything around was silent, and I judged
that the place was wholly deserted. The moon soon
rose, and, by the light, I discovered the edifice to be
still of great extent, though more than half of it was
tumbled into shapeless heaps. One portion was in a
good state of preservation. The floor here was beau-
tifully checkered with stone or marble, of black and
white, and the ceiling showed elaborate sculptures,
representing serpents and various grotesque images.
In a deep niche of the wall was an idol, resembling a fat,
smiling man, squatting down and eittm^ o\i\i\&\L^^^«

(

92 A COlTGBEaATIOK 07 IDOLA.TOAS.

I walked about the place for some time, and finally
concluded to adopt it as a tayern, inasmuch as nobody
appeared to claim it as a church. After tr3ring various
positions, I found one to suit me pretty well, and fell
asleep. Just about daylight, I was awoke by a strange
noise, and, looking round, I saw what I took to be an
aged man, come hobbling into the temple, helping him«
self along with his arms, like a child on all fours. It
was still dark, and I could only get a faint view of this
strange appearance. The personage, whoever he was,
went up to the idol I have just described, and kneeling
down before it, performed various signs and ceremonies.
After a time, he went away. He was soon followed by
a procession of about fifty similar personages, all hob-
bling along, now on two legs, and now on four. Having
made all sorts of grimaces before the idol, they also
departed. As they were passing out, one of them saw
me, and he set up the most frightful howl that ever
filled mortal ears. The procession was instantly thrown
into all sorts of paroxysms. Some of the party, which
I now discovered to consist entirely of apes and baboons,
yelled aloud; some scampered up the trees; some
jumped up and down ; and some came grinning at me,
as if to scare me out of my senses. I was pretty cool,
however, for I had been in this sort of company before,
and knew there was no danger ; and, besides, I foresaw
that I should get a good breakfast. It turned out as
I expected. One of the monkeys climbed a cocoa-nut
tree, and, taking pretty good aim, he threw a large nut
at my head. He missed his mark, and, taking the
fruit to the pagoda, I crushed it with a stone, and
made a delicious meal. Thus the monkey was my ser-
vant, though he did not know it.
I had no difficulty in discovermg that the coimtry

CAICBOJA — ^ABSIYAL AT 8AT00N. 93

where I now was, had heen thickly inhabited at some
remote day. The temple had, no doubt, in former
times, been firequented by the priests and devotees of
the Buddhist religion; and the monkeys, which are
great imitators, had kept up their rites and ceremo-
nies after they had deserted it.

I remained a day and night at the pagOda, for the
place was charmingly situated. Near by, was a small
rivulet of pure water, and along its banks were abun*
dance of beautiful flowers. I had some thoughts, in-
deed, of taking possession of the place, and spending
my life there, but it was too lonesome. The monkeys
and parrots were very talkative among themselves, but
it was impossible to have any instructive conversation
with them ; so I took my departure.

I concluded, from what I knew of geography, and
what the Chinese captain had told me, that I was in
the country of Camboja, which now forms part of the
kingdom of Anam. I supposed that, by travelling in a
westerly direction, I should come to some town, and
be put once more in connexion with my fellow-men.
In this I was right. After wandering for six days
from the time of my shipwreck, I reached Saigon,
which is the chief city of this part of the country.
The people greatly resemble the Ohinese, and I had no
difficulty in making myself understood.

Before I proceed, I must make a short digression.
Camboja was formerly a great kingdom, but nearly fifty
years ago it was divided between the kings of Anam
and Siam. Saigon, which belongs to Anam, is a sort of
double city — one half lying on the west bank of the
Saigon river ; and the other half, three miles off, on a
smaller river. The number of inhabitants is said to b^
200,000, many of whom are native Cj\mi<^»^. ^"^^ ^^1

94 DSSCBiPTioir or SAiooir.

is intersected by numerous canals, along which the
houses are disposed in straight lines. They are close
to each other, and are built of bamboo frames, with
walls of mud, plastered over. The roofs are mostly of
thatch, though a few are of tiles. Nearly all are of
one story.

Some of the streets are paved with flag-stones ; and
quays of stone and brick extend for a mile along the
river. In the stores and shops, I saw Chinese silks,
paper, tea, and firearms for sale. There were abo a
few broadcloths. I did not, however, observe a single
article of Yankee production : not a copy of the New
York Herald, or Merry's Museum; not an ounce of
Baker*8 Chocolate; not a bottle of Sand's Sarsapa-
rilla ; and, more than all, not a single clock, either of
brass or wood ! " Oh !" thought I, " if my fifby clocks,
which have gone down to the fishes, were only here, I
would get at least twenty dollars apiece! What a
misfortune ! What a waste of property — ^to view the
matter in the light of political economy ! Fifty clocks
— ^worth, at least, a thousand dollars — utterly lost to
the world I"

This consideration made a great impression on my
mind, and the very next night I had a dream about it.
I thought I had sunk, with my fifby clocks, into the
sea. To my great surprise, I was still alive, and found
myself called upon, by a lobster some six feet long, to
know the meaning of certain strange round-faced crea*
tures, that had just migrated into King Lobster's
dominions. Upon being shown one of them, I found
it to be one of my clocks. Strange to say, it seemed
to be alive, and, turn it up or down, it kept ticking
away iu a most furious manner. About every five
Johuteg it would strike, at wUch t\i<d kxtLg-lobster^

OOLZiOQITT WITH ▲ I0B8TEB. 05

and all his auite, inolading lots of crabs, ojsten, an^l
dams, would dear out, though they immediately re-
turned.

After a fbll exhibition, the lobster asked me what
this inatrument waa for. I told him it was to tell the
time of day. ^What do you mean by the time of
day?" said he.

** Don't you know P* said I.

* No— nor you either."

« Bah— but you do, though."

^ Not a bit of it, upon my honour !"

^ Well, then. Til explain it. You know the world,
on which we live, turns round every twenty-four
hours r

*^ I don't know any such thing."

** Well — but you know the sun goes round the woild
every twenty-four hours ?"

<" What is the sun P"

*' Surely your majesty is joking; you know all
about it."

*^ This wont do/' said the lobster, §^m\j\^ wtsry red,
'^this wont do. Tou are an egregious hur/ibug, Vi
come down here to instruct us, the niont intelli^^'mt,
moral, and religious of fishes." At this momc'nt J di^
covered for the first time, that all these creatures liad
but one eye^ and that was plaoesd in th^^ Knout. I iHtf
oeived, too, i^on further inquiry, that ilmy had only
one ide% which was, that they were the luin'i]ioxn<$»t,
wisest, and best creatures in the universe; that Uu»
world was made for them, and that all iMfsidt; them-
selves were vagabonds, cheat«, and good-for'U^Ahingn.
I ought to have known better, but I vi^nture<i Uf
suggest that, as I had two eyes, I could see more than
they could.

96 MOBB ABOUT SAIGON.

Upon this, His majesty flew in a passion, seized my
nose with his nght claw, and pinched it so immercifully
that I roared outright. At the same time all my fingers
and toes were attacked by crabs and hideous creatures,
each with one big eye, and biting like so many nippers.
When I awoke, I was standing in the middle of the
room, all covered with perspiration, and shivering like a
leaf. It was some time before I could get over the
horrible vision. I have never been able to relish lobster
since, either simple or in salad. One good, however, has
come of this dream : it has learnt me never to enter into
a dispute with creatures, whether lobsters or not, who
have but one idea. I advise others to follow my ex-
ample, alike at sea and ashore.

But to proceed in my account of Saigon. The market
is well supplied with poultry and pigs, and truth com-
pels me to add, young alligators, lizards, frogs, rats,
mice, and even worms, all of which are esteemed deli-
cacies. Fruits are various and abundant.

The two parts of the city have different names — one
being called Saigon, and the other Pingeh. The latter
is fortified, and is the seat of the governor, who rules
this part of the country in the name of the King of
Anam. There is here a naval arsenal, which was built
some half century ago, under the direction of European
engineers, employed by the government. It is really a
splendid affair, and here many fine vessels are built-
The people have a decided turn for maritime afiairs, and
seem to me better ship-builders than either the Chinese
or Japanese.

On the whole, I may say that Saigon is a very in-
teresting city, and, whenever lines of steamers are
established between Asia and San Francisco, they
ooffht to have a connecting line to thia ^la/(Sd. A ^eat

IKGllSrmTT on THB BAJBOVIASB. 97

trade may be carried on, for the country produces
beautiful woods for cabinet work, several kinds of var-
zdsh, cinnamon, cardamoms, pepper, indigo, ivory, silk,
copper, and many other valuable articles of merchandise;
The people resemble the Chinese, though they are ol
a darker colour. They are the proper Cambojans, and
their country produces the article called gamboge, used
in painting and medicine. They are^ however, for the
most part, ignorant and superstitious.

CHAPTER XIV.

Ingenuity of the Saigoniani. — ^I undertake to bmld a Ganiage for
Long-Tongs. — Extraordinary Misadyentare. — Embark for Hn6 in
the Boobng. — Two new Aeqnaintanoes. — Aniyal at Ha6. — ^His-
tory of Anam.

I HAD now been about three weeks in the city of
Saigon, during which period I had lived partly upon the
charity of an English merchant, who chanced to be
there on business, and partly by working for him in
writing, packing up goods, &q. As his stay was to be
short, however, I became very uneasy about my future
prospects.

My anxiety was increased by observing the general
ingenuity of the people, which seemed to leave very
little chance even for Yankee art and invention. But
at last, having noticed that there were no wheeled
vehicles in this country, I proposed to a rich person,
by the name of Long-Tongs, to build him a carriage.
After many explanations, he engaged me to do it, agree-
ing to give me my living while I was occupied on the
job, and to pay me about fifteen dollars when it was
done, if the thing suited him.

I went to work, and, at the endoi Wo i&oii^CsA^VDa^

98 EXTBAOBDINABY HISADTEITTXTBE.

produced a queer kind of machine, half cart and half
chaise, harness and all. The horses of this country are
about half as big as ours, and they are generally used
only for riding. I got one of them, and hitched him
to my chariot. I then mounted and took the reins,
and gave the animal a very polite chirrup, thus inviting
him to proceed. The little beast, however, only laid
down his ears, and whisked his tail. Upon this, I laid
the lash lightly over his back. He immediately reared,
kicked up, and then dashed forward as if he was at-
tacked by hornets. He took the middle of the main
street, which was none of the smoothest, and away he
went at a Virions gallop.

Never was there such a scene of terror and confusion.
John Gilpin's race was nothing to it. It was about
mid-day, and the streets were full of people. Some
were passing along in palanquins ; some were carrying
burdens on their heads, and some on bars across the
shoulders. Many, along the side of the streets, were
attending their little stalls of melons, poultry, pork, and
pickled fish. Straight ahead, amid this mingled multi-
tude, went my vicious pony, upsetting, smashing, and
dashing everything that came in his way.

I had no conception that so small an animal could
put forth such strength and speed. The amazement of
the people knew no bounds : they had never seen a cart
or carriage before, and, when I burst upon their asto-
nished vision, a shout of horror rose aroxmd me on all
sides. It was with difficulty T could keep my seat ;
and, as my charger grew more and more furious, I began
to look about for a sofb place to tumble into. This was
provided, however, without any exertion on my part ;
for, about half-way between Saigon and Pingeh, he
plunged into a deep slough, and W^mg ms^ and the

XXTBAOBBiyABY MISADYEKTXTBE. 99

chariot fast in the mud, he cleared out, and vanished in
the distance.

I crawled forth, looking more like a crocodile than a
man, for the ditch had furnished me with a jacket and
pantaloons of mud, fitting as close as my skin. Several
persons soon came up, and a circle was speedily formed
aroxmd me. They all looked as if they could scarce
restrain their rage. Two or three fellows came very
close, and thrust their fists in my face. As soon, how-
ever, as I rose from the ground, and threatened to chas-
tise them, the mob dispersed m all dh-ections.

Taking advantage of the fear I had inspired, I lefb
the place, and, passing through a series of narrow streets,
I was able to get clear of the town. I now made my
way along the banks of the canal, which is about
twenty miles in length, and connects Saigon with the
river Camboja. I reached this at daybreak, and, at a
small village, I purchased a melon, and made a good
breakfast.

I had with me about one hundred and twenty sepecs,
which are the small money of the country. They are
made of a brittle metal much used in all the countries
connected with China, called tutenaguey the basis of
which is zinc. This resembles silver, and is ofben
passed off upon strangers for that metal. The sepec is
of the size of a quarter of a dollar, with a hole in the
middle, by which it is usually carried upon strings.
Sixty of them are worth about five cents : so that my
whole wealth did not exceed ten cents. Provisions,
however, are cheap here, and for one sepec I bought the
melon of which I made my morning meal.

I had taken care to wash off the mud with which I
had been incrusted by my accident, and, now that I
saw one of the largest and finest met^ oi ks5ftSb.\i^<3«k

h2

100 EMBABK FOB Hu£ IK THE BOOBUe.

me, my spirits rose, and I Ix^an to form schemes for
my fhture career. While I was thus musing, a small
cmfb of some sixty tons came floating down the river. I
instantly made a sign to the people on hoard, and she
was hrought to the hank. I jumped upon deck, and
finding that she was hound to Hu6, the great capital of
the kingdom of Anam, I made a hargain to work mj
passage to that place.

The sloop, on which I was now emharked, was named
the '* Boohug," which, as feur as I could imderstand,
meant the Mosquito. She had three men hesides the
captain, and two passengers— one a Buddhist priest
from Thihet, and the other a juggler, cockfighter, and
maker of idols.

I had now a good opportunity to gain information as
to the countries which lie on either side of the great
Camhoja river. This stream takes its rise in Thihet,
and after breaking through the loftiest chain of moun-
tains in the world, it makes its way through rich and
populous countries to the ocean. Its whole length is
2000 miles, and its width, a himdred miles above the
sea, is Httle less than a mile. A great many villages,
and some towns, are situated upon its hanks. A large
commerce with China and Japan to the north, and to
the Asiatic islands at the south, is carried on upon it.
Sugar, raw silk, ivory, gold dust, silver, gamboge, gum-
lac, dye-woods, hides, horns, cinnamon, &c. &c., are
exported in vast quantities, and porcelain, drugs, gilt
paper, spices, tin, &c., are imported.

For myself, I had hardly heard of the river Camhoja

before I came hither ; and I was now amazed to find

the immense wealth which exists along its borders.

The countries through which it passes have more than

£/fy millions of people, and abound in rich and varied

TWO KXW AOQUAIKTAirOSS. 101

products. What avast field is open here for American
enterprise, as soon as we have established steam navi-
gation across the Pacific !

I fonnd much pleasure in talking with the priest.
He was a fat, sallow little man, with a sly twinkle in
his eyes, which bespoke at once g^d nature and cim-
ning. We gradually formed an intimacy, and he let
me into his plans. It appeared that although he was a
priest, he had also a taste for trade, and dealt pretty
largely in charms, amulets, and smaU idols. He had
belonged to the temple of Te-shoo-Lomboo, in Thibet,
but was now attached to the palace of Pootala, at Lassa
— the seat of the Grand Lama himself. He was the
bearer of an importaQt commission from several pious
Kootooktoos, or lamas, in Thibet, who had formed a
society for the amelioration of the condition of crickets
throughout Buddhadom. It is well known that all
animals are regarded with kindness by the pious Budd-
hists, and insects come in for a special share of their
sympathy. A famous Kootooktoo of Thibet, who was
assured that in a former state of his soul he had been a
pricket, observing that the Chinese had introduced
cricket-fighting, as a sport, throughout the east, deter-
mined to deliver these creatures from the cruel and de-
basing uses to which wicked and worldly men had snb-
jected them. He therefore caused a society for this
object to be formed, and my new acquaintance was one
of the agents for carrying the new reform to the capital
of the Anamese empire.

Notwithstanding his zeal in the object of his mission,
my friend the priest, who, by the way, bore the name
of Butter Pate, showed me, with great satisfaction, his
stock in trade. Among his various articles were thir-
teen im&gea of monkeys, every one oi '?i\as2ti^\ife ^asssafc^

102 TWO KSW AOQITAIirrAirOES.

me, would bring at least 300 sepecs at Hu^, inasxtiach
as they had been dipped in the water in which a holy
Lama of Teschoo-Lomboo had washed his hands. The
article which he chiefly prized, however, was rolled
up in about twenty pieces of gilt paper, and consisted
of what he assured me was a piece of the Grand Lama's
great toe-nail. This he intended as a present for the
head Queen of Anam, and which, he said, would ensure
him her special favour, inasmuch as it was not only a
charm against disease and misfortune, but a guarantee
of perpetual beauty.

I hope that none of my readers will turn from these
pages with an incredulous smile. Let them read the
accounts furnished by travellers who have visited the
countries of which I am speaking, and they will see
that the strange things here narrated do not by any
means equal those which are common in all nations
where the Buddhist religion prevails. Nor is it in vain
that we become acquainted with these facts ; for it is
by comparison with the darkness of the heathen lands,
that we may better estimate the light of that religion
which we enjoy, and better comprehend the extent of
that duty which calls upon the Christian world to extend
the blessings they enjoy to the dark and benighted
comers of the earth.

The juggler, whom I have mentioned as one of the
passengers, was from Bootan, and was called Wow-wow,
signifying Wizard — a title given him in consequence of
his wonderful performances. He had with him two
green serpents, which, although very poisonous, he
would handle, let them run over his body, and hide in
his bosom. He also made them dance while he played
to them on a sort of reed, which soimded like a flageolet.
He had six quails, which he had taught to tight like

ABBIYAL AT BUL 103

game-cocks ; besides which, he had a variety of curious
instruments which he used in his juggleries.

This man, as well as my friend Butter Pate, was
going to the great capital of Hu6 to exercise his pro-
fession. He was a very merry fellow, and told a great
variety of stories : he also sung songs, which the priest
said were very witty and delightful for worldly men,
but not proper to be listened to by such sanctified
persons as himself. Nevertheless he did listen, and the
twinkle of his eye seemed to contradict his professions.

We were no less than three weeks in performing our
voyage of about a thousand miles. At length, leaving
the China Sea, we entered the river Hue, and after
passing along between highly cultivated banks, studded
with numerous villages and country-seats, we reached
the capital.

This is really one of the most remarki^ble cities in
Asia. I found it to be about five miles in circum-
ference ; the population is from three to four hundred
thousand. It is enclosed by a wall, and has fortifica-
tions in the European fashion, capable of containing
fifty thousand men. The excellent style of the public
walks of Hu6, as well as their vast scale, have no parallel
in any other city of Asia. The great fortress is con-
nected with the city by a broad canal, very nicely
executed ; several trenches, also, lead from, the citadel
to the palace of the king, to the public granaries — ^which
are on an immense scale, and filled with grain — ^to the
arsenal, abimdantly supplied with guns and ammuni-
tion, and to various other state edifices. The canal is
crossed by bridges of stone, with stone balustrades and
marble pavements. The palace is enclosed by a double
wall ; the whole fortress is surrounded by barracks. On
the river, which is four hundred yax^ 'vi^iitb^^KfeXssaik^ssi^-

I04l HIBTOBY O? AITAM.

docks, and a large fleet of galleys. Its banks are ez«
tremelj beautiful, and the whole vicinity of the city is
in a high state of cultivation, producing cotton, rice,
mulberry, and various trees. The villages are numerous,
and many of them have a pleasing appearance, on
accoimt of the light and fantastic construction of the
houses, some of which are completely embowered in
broad-leafed palms or other tropical trees. The roads
and bridges around the city are many of them excellent.
The present kingdom of Anam — a word signifying
South Cotmtry — ^is composed of three distinct portions :
Cochin China, the principal coimtry, Tonquin, and
Camboja. The two latter have been conquered and
made subject to the first, within the present century.
A French missionary, named Adran, obtained great
influence here, and induced the government to employ
French engineers, who executed the public works found
at Hu6, Saigon, and other places. This remarkable man
was made prime minister of the celebrated Chung
Shung, who had conquered a great part of Farther
India about the year 1800, and in this capacity he
caused the public improvements to be made which we
have already noticed. He established manufactories of
gunpowder, made roads and canals, executed fortifica-
tions, oflered bounties upon silks, encouraged the culti-
vation of sugar-cane, opened mines of iron, erected
smelting furnaces, built and equipped a navy of gun-
boats and galleys, established schools to which parents
were compelled to send their children, introduced a good
system of laws, &c. &c. Thus the great kingdom of
Anam was in a fair way to pass at once from a state of
barbarism to a high degree of civilization. But these
fiur prospects were suddenly blasted by the death of the
great and eniig^htened Adran. His wise and energetic

I AH JLGtAXS IS TB017BLB. 105

oounsels being withdrawn, the country relapsed into its
former state, leaving, almost as barren monuments, the
great works he had undertaken and executed. Some
of these were indeed imperishable, and I found many of
them in a state of excellent preservation, but the laws,
the Bohoolsy the arts, had given place to general bar-
barism.

CHAPTER XV.

I am agam in Trouble. — A Hjsterioiis Proceeding. — Suddenly
find myself in a Scene of Magnificence. — Gba-goug, the Emperor.
— ^Bntta Tung, the Cream of Moonlight. — ^Mr. Penny-whisUe. — A
strange Apparition. — The Saucepan Philosopher. — The little
Pill Doctor. — The Cream of Moonlight in an Ecstasy. — ^I deliver
an Address. — Once more in Luck. — The Palace in a Panic — ^A
Bead Shot.

Wniuir I arrived at Hn^, I could not discover that
there was a single European in the city, nor was there
any American except myself. I was soon reduced to a
Etate of extreme poverty, not having a farthing of
money, and no article of property, except my jacket and
pantaloons of thin calico, an old handkerchief for a cap,
an old rusty Acheen knife or dagger, and about three
yards of bark twine, which I had manufactured on my
voyage to Hue. This was a small stock in trade, and
I saw that I must simmion all my genius if I would
avoid starvation.

I ruminated a long time on my situation, and men-
tally discussed a variety of plans and undertakings as
means of subsistence. The mind is doubtless the nobler
part of man, but the stomach takes the precedence, as
any one may find out if he will go eight-and-forty hours
without eating, as I had done. Let all the ameliorators
of mankind consider that God haa ^ xci«^<6\>&\ih!kS^\is^

(

106 A HYSTEBI0I7S PBOCXEDINa.

great mental or moral improvement can be profitably
undertaken till the people are provided with three good
meals a-day. If they doubt it, let them take a course
of experimental lectures in starvation.

I have heard of some great king crying out in battle,
"A horse — ^my kingdom for a horse!" My case was
less heroic, but it was hardly less agonizing, for at last,
seeing a fellow going by with a roasted monkey, I be-
seeched him to give it to me in exchange for my dagger.
This he refused with disdain,but afber a deal of chaffering,
he cut me off a hind quarter, which he grudgingly gave
me for the instrument. When I say that 1 foimd the
flesh delicious, let no one laugh, for a keen appetite and
monkey-mutton, are things that agree with one another
remarkably well, at least in Cochin China.

The next day my wants returned, and as night ap-
proached, I was walking along the banks of the river,
half thinking of drowning my sorrows in the stream.
While gazing into the waters, which are smooth and
tranquil, I heard the dip of oars beneath the dark shadow
of the citadel, whose battlements here frowned high in
front of me. In a moment after, a boat came into the
fair light of the moon, and I could see that it contained
two oarsmen, gaily dressed, with a man sitting in the
stem, who had the costume of a priest. As he passed,
he seemed startled at my tall, gaunt, haggard form, and
performed some juggling ceremony with his hands, as if
to keep off an evil spirit. A moment after, he made
a sign to the oarsmen, who suddenly turned the boat
toward me, and it came plump ashore. The priest then
spoke to me, and told me to get into the boat. My
fortunes were so desperate that I did not stop to reflect,
but instantly obeyed. He pushed off, and no one saying
A word, we glided along the river, till we came to a gate-

A HYSTEBIOTTS PBOCEEDIN&. 107

way in the quay ; here a door was opened, and the boat
passing in, entered a canal. Proceeding along this for
two or three hundred yards, we came to an archway,
Tinder which we passed, and were immediately inclosed
in utter darkness. We slid along in silence, excepting
only the light slapping of the water against the bottom
of the boat, for several minutes ; we then stopped, and
I was handed out, and made to ascend a winding stair-
case. We soon came to a vast hall, blazing with lamps.
The scene was very magnificent, and I was quite bewil-
dered, as I passed suddenly from complete darkness into
such a scene of light and splendour.

My mysterious guide beckoned me to follow, and
proceeding across the hall, we entered along gallery, and
finally came to a picture bung against the wall. The
man touched a string, the picture swung round, and
disclosed an opening at which we entered. Here was a
small cabinet — and the man taking off his high conical
cap, disclosed the smooth, swarthy features of the Thi-
betan priest who had been my companion from the
Camboja river to Hu6. His eyes twinkled, and a
knowing smile played at the comers of his mouth. He
now remarked that he had but five minutes for explana-
tion — as he was about to appear before Goa-gong, the
emperor, and his beautiful queen, the celebrated Butta
Tung. A great ceremony was to take place, and I must
perform a part. No sooner were these brief words
ended, than we were ushered into the presence of their
imperial majesties.

They were both seated on high cushions, richly deco-
rated. On the king's right hand were about twenty
ladies, and on the queen's lefb were about as many boys,
all gaudily dressed. These were standing. The king
was of a deep yellow skin , and afctvc^ xk\x.Ocl Ss\. Nh^a

108 ▲ scEHTB 07 yuL&srmcssot.

Chinese fashion, but with a kind of turban-cap on his
head, absolutely blazing with diamondis. His look was
mild, though he had an air of one who had seen all the
good things of the world, and had lost his interest in
life. The queen was of a lighter complexion, and had
bluish-grey eyes, with flaxen hair. These traits, veiy
unusual in Anam, were thought to constitute her beauty,
and the name of Butta Tung, meaning Cream of Moon-
light, was given to her by the popular court poety
Penny- whistle, as happily descriptive of her angelic
charms. She was dressed in a yellow satin jacket, and
blue Turkish pantaloons, seeming somewhat of a
Bloomer. Her head was bare, except that a narrow
coronet of jet, set with a few magnificent pearls, encu--
cled it. Her hair was braided m four ample tresses, one
falling forward over each shoulder, and the others sweep-
ing down her back.

Some fifty persons stood at a respectful distance —
seeming to be the nobles of the court. Another group,
of which I was one, consisting of a dozen persons, occu-
pied a sort of semi-circular recess at the right hand of
the king, and between him and the nobles.

It may be well supposed that I was not a little
puzzled at the scene before me, and no less curious to
know the part I was to perform in it. Reflecting upon
my dress — which was of a very humble character — my
pantaloons, especially, which were six inches too short,
giving great display to my bony ankles and large bare
feet — I felt not a little abashed to see the row of twenty
ladies all looking at me, and exchanging smiles and
glances with the Cream of MoonHght, evidently at my
expense. I stood in the background as much as pos-
sible, but as I was a third taller than anybody else in

aOA-GONO, THE XHPEBOB. 109

the room, my modesty did not shelter me from being a
very conspicuous object.

A long half hour passed, when a door at the bottom
of the hall was opened, and four servants of the palacei
entered, bearing a table — and on that table was — guess
my astonishment — one of my clocks !

I knew it in an instant. If it had been my own
child, I could not have recognised it more readily or
more certainly. But how came it here P Ah ! that was
the question. I had supposed all my clocks shipwrecked
and lost in the sea, when our vessel ran upon the rocks
on the coast of Camboja. How^ then, could one of them
have got to this city of Hu^, and fallen into the hands
of the king ? But it was no time to answer these ques*
tions, for, as soon as the table had been placed before
his majesty, a person of the court came forward and
stated that the object before them had been presented
to his majesty, and no one had yet been able to explam
its nature or its use. He observed that it had a face
with twelve eyes, that it appeared to have no mouth,
but it possessed two long black noses, which turned upon
a pivot I In looking into its head, he could discover
its brains, which consisted of a very curious collection
of brass wheels. Whether the thing was dead or alive
he was tmable to say. The purpose of the present
assembly was to call upon all the sages, artisans, and
philosophers, present at the court of Anam, to examine
and interpret this astounding phenomenon.

Having thus proclaimed the object of the convoca-
tion, an artisan of Hu6, a manufacturer of saucepans,
came forward and examined the clock. It was laid on
its back upon the table. He looked at it, shook his
head, and retired. A physician^ with ^ vo^ long.

110 THB LITTLE FILL DOOTOB.

solemn face, now advanced. He was very celebrated for
curing diseases with little pills as big as pinheads; but
what was most remarkable, he took the pills himself
instead of giving them to the patient. His doctrine
was, that all the regular physicians gave too much
physic ; that the smaller the dose the more powerful the
effect ; and, carrying out this idea, he came to the con-
clusion that no physic at all must prove to be the most
efficient system of cure for sick persons. To satisfy the
imagination of his patients, who naturally thought
that something ought to be done, he used to swallow
the little pills, making up mysterious faces, and per-
forming various other antics before the sick person
during the operation. He also required the nose of the
patient to be stopped, for he insisted that all disease
crept in at the nostrils.

This man had acquired an immense practice, and had
cast all the other physicians into the shade. He was
supposed to know everything; and, therefore, as he
approached the clock, everybody present seemed to be
in a state of high expectation. The doctor looked at
the face of the clock a long time, as if he considered it
a patient. He then took some little pills out of his
pocket, and swallowed them. But the clock did not so
much as wink. The wise man was bothered. He at
last took hold of it and gave it a shake, upon which it
rumbled, and there was a faint sound of a bell ! A look
of wonder came over every face, and the doctor assumed
a very important and mysterious air. He now set the
clock upon its legs. It ticked, and the two hands, or
rather what were considered the two noses, began to
move!

An emotion of surprise and admiration flashed over
the assembly. The king uttered a bum^^hl and the

CBEAK 07 UOOTSrmaKT TS Air ECSTASY. Ill

Cream of Moonlight clapped her hands ! The doctor
looked triumphant. What a palpable proof of the
efficacy of his system was here ! He had taken four of
his pills, and the mysterious thing before him had come
to life. The argument was conclusive; the physic-
giving doctors were confounded ; the no-physio doctor
was vindicated and established.

But Goa-gong was not yet satisfied. " The thing
moves/' said he, ''but what is it? what is its
use?" The doctor could not answer. Several per-
sons, celebrated in art and science, were now called
upon, but all were at fault. At last, the Thibetan
priest was requested to come forward. He advanced,
and kneeling first to the king and then to the queen,
whose acquaintance he had already made, he said,
"May it please your majesties, it is my vocation to
deal with the hearts of men, and not with the won-
ders of art. Permit me to point out to your majesties
a man from a distant country, who is a curious artist,
and gifted in many things. K I mistake not, he can
explain the mystery before us." Having said this, and
receiving a nod of assent from the royal pair, he caused
me to advance. This I did without hesitation, though
I could perceive, amid the general surprise, some sly
winking and tittering among the black-eyed ladies of
the court, evidently excited by my somewhat deficient
and dilapidated costume.

Having made due obeisance to the king and queen,
I turned the face of the clock to their majesties. I
then opened the back, and taking the key, I wound it
up; I then set it in motion, •and having done so, I
proceeded to deliver a lecture upon clocks, as follows : —

" May it please your most gracious majesty the
King of Anam ; and may it pleayae t\i<^ \)«»?:sdc&c\.^i^<^«c!k.^

112 I DELTTEB AK ADBBESS.

80 happily named the Cream of Moonlight ; may it al83
please all the ladies and gentlemen here present, this
instrument is a Clock or Time-piece^ made to follow
the Sim in its daily march aroimd the world. The day
and night, as you all know, are divided into twenty-
four hours. On the face of the clock are twelve marks,
indicating twelve hours. Now you ohserve two long
pointers or hands. One moves around the whole circle
every hour; the other moves, during the hour, only
from one point to another. The longer hand shows the
minutes, and the shorter one the hours. Thus, in a
cloudy day, or even at night, you can, hy means of this
instrument, tell the time with the utmost precision."

This is a very brief abstract of my discourse, in which
I illustrated the subject, and made it comprehensible to
my auditors. When I had done, I was rewarded with
a nod of approbation from the king, and a smile from
the queen, with abundant signs of approval from many
other members of the assembly. The little pill-doctor,
however, as well as the maker of saucepans, cast upon
me withering glances of suspicion and hate.

The assembly now dispersed ; but I was desired to
stay. This I did, and was directed to set up the clock
in the queen's apartment. Having done so, a purse of
money was given me, and I took my leave. The next
day, having enjoyed a hearty meal, and clad myself
neatly in the costume of the coimtry, I sought out the
Thibetan priest, and asked him if he knew how the
dock had got to Hu6. He told me that as I had in-
formed him of my shipwreck, and the loss of my clocks,
he had no doubt this was one of them. From inquiries
he had made, he beheved that the wreck of the vessel
in which 1 had gone ashore had been visited, afber the
storm bad isubsided, by a Siamese coaster ; that many

THE PALACE IN A PAITIO. 113i

articles were found on board and taken away. Among
them were a number of my clocks. These had been
taken to Bangkok, the capital of Siam, and one of them
had been sent by the king of that country, as a great
curiosity, to the emperor of Anam.

This seemed a probable story, and after further
inquiries, I became satisfied that such was the fact. I
began to think of setting out for Bangkok, to claim my
property, when unforeseen incidents caused a sudden
turn in my thoughts and my fortunes.

I had been frequently called into the palace to regu-
late the clock, and had received several valuable presents
&om the queen, so that I had now money and other
things to the value of three hundred dollars. I had^
however, never said anything about the alarm attached
to the clock, for, to say the truth, I was afraid of its
effect upon so sensitive a person as her majesty. Unfor-
tunately, I left it one day set in a manner to go off
about midnight, and go off it did ! The queen was
asleep in the same room, and at the distance of only
half a dozen yards. As all was hushed in silence, the
clang of the alarm-bell sounded to the queen like a dis-
charge of artillery. Her sudden screams of terror
awoke the maids of honour ; the maids of honour awoke
the sentinels ; the sentinels called the soldiers. In
rushed the latter, exclaiming, "What is it? where
isit?''

"Oh, it's that terrible thing there!*' said the
ladies.

" Where ? where ? " said the guard.

" There ! there ! " was the reply of twenty voices.

And, sure enough, the unhappy clock spoke for itself, .
clanging away as if to arouse the whole city. This
was enough. Pour of the guaid. \»oo\l «MXi^ «£A ^ ^\iSk>

X

114 GET INTO PBISOK AJSTD GET OFT AGAXIT.

cBscharge of their muskets, shattered it into a hundred
pieces. In an instant, the painted face, the curious
wheels, the varnished case, lay in fragments scattered
over the floor. But the cry of thieves, murder, insur-
rection, fire, pillage ! had rung through the palace, and
a scene of terror and confusion foUowed, which words
cannot easily describe. It was not till the day had
fairly dawned, and the grisly visions of night had
vanished, that quiet was restored.

CHAPTEE XVI.

A Dark Day.-^-I get into Prison, and get out again. — I set out for
Bangkok, capital of Siam. — ^My Arriyal. — Description of the
City. — The chief Temple. — The Priests. — The Palace. — Descrip-
tion of the Country. — Situation. — Climate. — Vegetation. — Mi-
nerals. — Animals. — White Elephants. — Population of Siam.—
Dress. — ^Manners. — Government. — The King a God. — Eeligion.

Abotjt eleven o'clock in the morning of this day, while
I was sauntering along the quay, looking at a Siamese
vessel loading for Bangkok, and meditating upon
taking passage in her, I was arrested and hurried to
prison. Here I remained nine days, immured in a
damp, dismal cell, utterly ignorant of the cause of my
confinement. I soon sunk into a state of utter despon-
dency ; but just at the point when I had given up all
hope of escape, I was suddenly released. The Thibetan
priest came to my cell, and told me the story of the
alarm clock. He said that the afiPair was thought to be
a device of mine against the life of the queen. This
view of the matter had been urged upon her by the
saucepan-maker and the little pill-doctor, who had a
^!resat jealousy of me, and who sought my destruction.
AH that the priest could do for me ^«& to ^^rocure aa

THE CITY OP BANGKOK. 115

order for my release, upon the condition that I should
immediately quit the coimtry.

I joyfully accepted these terms, and in the course of
a few hours, I was on board of the Siamese vessel, just
mentioned. The next day we set sail, and I was not a
little rejoiced at my deliverance, and the turn my
affairs had taken. Sailing along the coast of Cochin
China, to the southward, we doubled Cape Camboja, and
entered the great bay of Siam. The Siamese are very
good sailors, and our little craft, of one hundred and
fifty tons, made excellent progress. Our voyage of
fifteen hundred miles was made in the course of eighteen
days.

The city of Bangkok, which is the capital of Siam,
lies on both sides of the river Menam, about fifteen miles
north from the Gulf of Siam, and contains seventy or
eighty thousand inhabitants. It occupies a swampy
tract, and is altogether a most curious place. It con-
sists of three parts : the palace, the town, and the float-
ing town. The palace is on an island, and comprises
the residences of the king and chief officers, numerous
temples, and some inferior shops. These are encircled
by a high wall, with forts, and many gates, by which
the people go in and out.

The town proper extends along the two banks of the
river, and consists of palm-leaf houses, built on piles
driven into the sand. Each house is provided with a
boat, in which the inhabitants traverse the river. The
floating town consists of palm-leaf houses, built in rows,
on bamboo rafts. Each raft has from four to ten
houses upon it. In front is a platform, on which the
people expose the articles they have to sell. Half the
popidation reside on the river, and nearly all the trade
of the town is thus carried on upon the waters l^e'^^i^

I2

116 THE CHIEF TEMPLE.

was there a more strange-looking place, or a more odd
congregation of people. Altogether, they seemed like
a settlement of water-fowl, gUding ahout hither and
thither, quacking and cackling like so many ducks and
geese.

In the greater part of the city, merchandise is trans-
ported from place to place in small light hoats. There
are a great many temples, huilt in a pyramidal form,
and covered with gilding and paltry ornaments. Each
contains an enormous statue of Buddha, made of metal,
and covered with gilding. There are also a variety of
other images in clay or wood. The chief temple is 200
feet in height, and contains at least 15,000 images. It
is really a most strange-looking place. There are always
a great many priests there, kneeling, making signs, and
walking about in processions. I went into this temple
one night about twelve o'clock. The moon was shining^
and by the dim light I could see the immense congre-
gation of grinning images ; some of them are twenty
feet high, and all have a hideous smiling look. Nothing
could more clearly show the degradation of the people
than that such should be their religious temples, and
these horrid idols their gods.

The palace where the king resides is an immense
collection of buildings, surrounded by three different
walls. It has one splendid room called the Hall of
Audience, eighty feet long, forty wide, and thirty
high. It is richly, though rudely, painted and
gilded, and is ornamented with rich cut-glass cande-
labra.

The kingdom of Siam lies at the head of the Gulf of
Siam, between Burmah and Anam. It is a tropical
country, lying in about the same latitude as the
southern West India Islands. Eice is so abundant that

WHITE BLEPHAITTS. 117

five pounds are sold for a cent. It produces sugar,
pepper, tobacco, and a great variety of delicious fruits.
The country is about four times as extensive as the State
of New York. The greater part of the surface is covered
with forests, among which there are valuable woods, as
teak, sandal, satin, rose, eagle, and other variegated and
perfumed woods. There are also numerous species of
gums. To these products, we may add iron, copper,
tin, lead, and gold. What a rich commerce will be
carried on between this country and the United States
in the space of a few years !

The wild animals of Siam embrace a great variety
of interesting species. Elephants are very abundant.
These are caught and trained for use by the inhabitants.
A white variety of elephants is sometimes fqund, and is
held in great estimation. It is the exclusive property
of the king, who is called Lord of White Elephants.
Several of these animals are kept by the royal court,
and are richly caparisoned, being considered the most
splendid part of his majesty's equipage. A man who
discovers a white elephant, is as famous in Siam as a
man is among us who has been victorious in battle — as
General Harrison, who beat the Indians at Tippecanoe ;
Colonel Johnson, who killed Tecumseh ; or old Bough
and Ready, who thrashed Santa Anna at Buena Vista.
Such a fortunate discoverer is rewarded with a present
of silver and a grant of land equal in extent to the space
of country over which the cries of an elephant may be
heard. He and his descendants to the third genera-
tion are exempted from all sorts of servitude, and every
species of taxation.

Besides the elephant, Siam produces the rhinoceros,
the tiger, antelope, various kinds of deer, and an im-
mense variety of birds, many of ^loiciVL ^^ ^^\aas^&s>^}sa

118 POPTJLATIOir — ABBESS — ^MANTSTEBS.

for the splendour of their plumage. Insects and rep-
tiles abound. Some of the crocodiles and serpents are
of immense size.

The whole population of Siam is supposed to be
about five millions. The true Siamese are very short,
with thick, stout limbs. The general colour of the
skin is yellow. The hair is coarse, lank, and uniformly
black, covering nearly the forehead and temples. The
general form of the face has a curious square look. The
eyes are black and small, and squint toward the point
of the nose. Travellers generally represent them as
cunning, mean, conceited, and ignorant ; and I must
add that I found this representation to be just, though
it is but fair to say that they are attached to their
children, reverential to parents, exceedingly temperate,
and of gentle manners. The upper classes are rude and
brutal to those beneath them. Slavery is common,
and some of the chiefs have hundreds and even thou-
sands. Persons are sold into slavery for debt ; men sell
their wives and children as slaves, and the chiefs in the
remote districts seize the inhabitants and send them to
Bangkok, where they are sold into slavery.

Both sexes dress nearly alike. A cotton garment,
reaching downwards from the waist, is the common
costume : sometimes a scarf is worn over the shoulders.
Gambling and cock-fighting are pursued with passion-
ate fondness. Theatrical entertainments are common,
and music is cultivated by nearly all classes.

There are a great many Chinese settlers in different
parts of Siam. Half of the population of Bangkok
consists of these emigrants and their descendants. A
great many foreigners from the adjacent countries have
settled in different parts of Siam, especially in the
larger towns.

GtOVBEITMENT — ^BELI0I01!r. 119

The goyemment is an absolute monarchy. The king
claims that he is everything, and the people nothing.
He is called the god Buddha, and is considered by the
people as a deity, — as God himself. He is supposed to
own all the land and property of the country, and the
people are considered as made for his pleasure and use.
There are written laws, but any l^ing can change them,
and even set them aside at his pleastire. Still there is
a kind of public opinion, and settled customs, which
form the general guide of the administration of the
government. , No man ever seems to wish to be
free, or to be other than his ancestors have been — the
subjects and slaves of the king. The nobles engross
all the offices, and exercise a cruel dominion over the
people, who dare not complain unless they bring a
bribe.

The religion is Buddhism, the same as that of Anam^
Birmah, and other adjacent countries. The tahpoins,
or priests, live in monasteries ; some of these contain
several hundreds. They are endowed by the govern-
ment, or by pious persons. The Eoman Catholic
Church of Europe has had missionaries here for 200
years, and there are about 2000 Eoman CathoHo wor-
shippers in Siam at the present day.

CHAPTER XVII.

Diacorery as to my Lost Clocks. — Interview with the King. —
Curious Dialogue. — I tell a Story. — Am taken into the King's
Service, and sent off for the Mines. — Voyage np the Menam. —
Make my Escape. — Boating. — Find a Baby, and call him Moses.
— Take to the Land, and torn Norse. — Sad Times. — The Baby
sickens and dies. — Hi, ho 1

The reader will readily imagine that on my arrival at
Bangkok I immediately set about making mct^x&'Sk l^'s.

120 IKTEBVIBW WITH THE KlSe,

my clocks, which I had reason to believe had been
taken from the wreck on the coast of Camboja. I was
not long in discovering that the account I had heard
on this subject was true, and, indeed, I soon discovered
several of them in use among the wealthy inhabitants.
I claimed them as my property, but the people laughed
at me as a presumptuous rogue. I finally determined to
make an appeal to the king, hoping to prevail upon
him to do me justice. I found a number of people
here from different parts of Europe, and these all tried
to dissuade me from such a step. They told me that
it was the habit of his majesty, whenever he found a
person who was ingenious in any kind of mechanical
art, to seize him and compel him to work for him, or
perhaps to go to the tin mines and assist in the opera-
tions there. I did not heed this advice, so I went to
,the palace to ask an interview with the king.

At first the guards and officers, who were in great
mmibers around the gate, took me for an idiot, but
pretty soon they began to examine me with curious
and wondering looks. My height, which was nearly
twice as great as theirs, excited their astonishment.
At last the chief officer condescended to speak to me.
After a little conversation, he said he would go and ask
the king if I could be admitted. In twenty minutes
he returned, and I was conducted to the great hall of
audience, between a double row of soldiers. In one
comer, on a raised platform, was his majesty, sitting on
a cushion, with his heels under him. A slave stood by
and fanned him, for the weather was very hot. The
king was a very short, thin, yellow man ; his long, lank
hair as white as snow. He looked like a white-headed
orang-outang.

I was m&de to stand at a distance till the king had

CtrEIOTJS DIALOGUE. 121

looked at me for a long time. I was then ordered to
approach. When I was near, I bent down and saluted
him in the Siamese fashion, upon which the following
dialogue ensued : —

King. Who are you ?

Gil, Gilbert Go-ahead, of Sandy Plain, New Haven
County, State of Connecticut, United States of America.

King, You have got a name as long as a king.
Where is your country ?

Oil, Kound t'other side of the world.

King, Goo ! — ^You know how to lie !

Oil, Then I resemble the Siamese.

King, Who is king in your country ?

Cril, Franklin Pierce.

King, How many wives has he got ?

Oil, Only one.

King, Poor fellow ! Has he any white elephants ?

Oil. Not one.

King, I will send him one.

Oil, He does not accept presents.

King, Goo ! — ^there you lie again. What can you do ?

Oil, I can tell stories.

King, Well, tell us a story.

GHl, Your majesty is all-powerful, and I obey.
Once upon a time, in a far-off country, a man who was
very ingenious made a curious instrument to measure
the hours of the day. This was called a chch, and,
being very useful, clocks became very common in the
country where this man lived. There were large
buildings devoted to the making of clocks, and in some
of them a hundred were turned off in a day. Thus,
the use of clocks, in due time, was extended to other
countries, and the trade in them became very great.
Now, about these days, a certain xaasi WkVs^e^^^S^icj^-

122 I TELL A STOBT.

load of clocks, and set off to sell them in those nations
and kingdoms where the people did not understand
the art of making them. As the ship was passing
along hy a rocky shore, the winds blew terribly, and
she was driven on the reef. The sailors left the ship,
and the clock-merchant left it also — for they feared
that she would go to pieces, and they should all be
drowned. But the storm abated, and a ship coming
by the place, stopped at the wreck, took out all the
clocks, and carried them to a great city and sold them.

After a time the poor clock-seller heard of all this,
and so he went to the great city and claimed his pro-
perty. But the people scoffed at him, and called him
an impudent rogue. Now, the man said to himself,
" I will go to the king ; kings claim to be like God, and
like him they should promote truth and justice." But
the people said to the man : — " Beware of kings ; they
are like lions and tigers ; they are powerful, and make
prey of whomsoever they please." The man replied —
" I have no fear ; I have faith in the goodness of my
cause ; besides, I am six feet three inches high, and can
split a pine board with a blow of my fist." And so
the man went to the king, and the king asked him his
name, and inquired about his country, and the king
thereof. And the man said to the king — " My name
is Gilbert Go-ahead, and I am from America, which
lies on t'other side of the world ; and the king or chief
of my country s called Franklin Pierce, he having only
one wife and no white elephants."

King, And so you pretend to have been robbed ?

Oil, Your majesty has hit my idea exactly. I have
been robbed by some of your subjects, and when I
claim my property of them, they jeer and scoff, and call
me a thief.

AM TAKEK I17T0 THE EING's SEBYICX. L23

King, You can tell stories ; what else can you do P

Oil. I can eat a good dinner, as your majesty shall
see if you will give me an opportunity.

King, Well, I take you into my service. I am not
utterly ignorant of your country ; I have heard of it
before. I have seen Americans and Englishmen. You
Americans are very ingenious, and have many arts.
You have mines of gold, and know how to work them.
I have mines of iron, tin, and gold. I shall send you
to the mines to instruct my people. Officers, take him
away, and see that my will is done.

It was all over with me, and in two days I was sent
o£P in a boat with a gang of nine men. Our destination
was the mountainous country, lying three hundred
miles to the north, upon the higher waters of the
Menam river. I was secured by a chain of iron around
my ankles, but my arms were left free, so that I could
assist in rowing. Our course was up the river, along
the banks of which we saw a great nnmber of towns
and villages, all built on piles sunk in the mud. In
four days we had passed the flat alluvial country,
and the banks of the river were now steep, wild, and
precipitous.

Having made Mends of my g^^rd, I induced them to
take off the chain around my ankles, which they did
more readily, as they conceived it improbable that I
should attempt to escape where the country was so
rude and uninhabited. I, however, had gone far
enough, and was determined to bid my friends good-
bye on the first fitting occasion. Two days after this,
we had pushed the boat ashore, to avoid the heat of the
sun, which blistered our arms and shoulders. It was,
indeed, our custom to lay-by during the day, and go

124 TTSJ) A BABY, AJSTD CALL HIM MOSES.

ahead at night. On this occasion I remained near the
boat, and, watching my opportunity, I got slily into it,
and pushed off. I was in the middle of the stream
before the men saw me. They now set up a terrible
yell, and three of them jumped in and swam at me.
The boat, however, was light, and, putting her nose
down the stream, I was soon clear of my pursuers.
I whistled Yankee Doodle in token of victory, and
kept moving.

At the end of two days I began to approach the set-
tlements, and, being apprehensive of trouble, I turned
into a branch of the river which came in from the
west, and seemed to flow with a gentle and placid cur-
rent. It was about two hundred yards wide, and
though its banks were hilly, they were not iiigged or
savage. I continued to row up this stream for two
days, when I met something slowly swimming down
the tide. It lay directly in my course, and as I came
to it, I perceived it to be a basket, made of bamboo,
and in it lay a boy infant, some six moi^ths old, fast
asleep ! As I stooped over the side of the boat to take
the little fellow in, I perceived, in the water, imme-
diately beneath him, the ravenous jaws of a crocodile,
already half open to grasp him. The monster looked
at me with a horrid fishy stare, and at the same
moment brought his tail round in such a manner as
to give my boat a thump which nearly upset it.
After this I thrust an oar down his throat with a
furious plunge, upon which he rolled half over, and
went away. I then took the child in, and having given
him the name of Moses, I proceeded to consider what
was to be done. The little fellow soon waked up,
and put out his hands, paddling in the air, as if for
Ills mother and bis dinner.

TAKE TO THE LAITD, AKD TFBK KUBSE. 12S

Id my whole life I was never more puzzled as to
what I should do. I, however, took the infant in my
lap, and whistled and simg to it, while I rowed away as
well as I could. When, at last, he began to cry, I
pushed ashore, imder the spreading boughs of a tree ;
here I made a fire, and in my saucepan boiled some
rice, and squeezed the juice of it into his mouth. I
was never more relieved — indeed I may say I was
never more delighted — than when I saw Moses suck
away as if he had found his nurse. But what on
earth was I to do with him p That was, indeed, a
poser ! It was a perfect wilderness all around me. I
had no doubt that a superstitious mother had set the
infant afloat on the river, as an offering to some hideous
divinity ; and she, perhaps, would have deemed herself
happy, if she could have seen it devoured by the croco-
dile. "Such," thought I, "is Paganism: it teaches
the mother to abandon her tender offspring as a prey to
monsters ; while Christianity calls upon even a rude
man like me to become its protector, and, if there is
need, to stand in the place of father and mother. Poor
thing," added I, " Gilbert Go-ahead is a rough nurse,
but he will not abandon thee : he will do what he can,
Moses, and that is all that is to be expected of
any one."

I now sat down on a hummock of land, and gave the
child a tossing up and down, Connecticut fashion. He
smiled and evidently liked it. He was a plump, smooth,
soft little cherub; and when he was delighted he
crammed his fist into his mouth, just as our babies do.
'* Well," said I to myself, " we are all of one family :
this 'ere dark-skinned yoimg Pagan — ^the offspring of a
mother who never saw Bunker Hill, or heard of
pumpkin pie — has all the ways o^ «ic\rX.^\5M3^>^<^^\a^

126 SAD TIMES.

the fear and admonition of Deacon Smith, of Sandy
Plain. All he wants is education to he a Christian.
Any hody can see an immortal soul down at the hottom
of the little fellow's eyes. Well, well — ^that's plain
enough : hut what shall I do with him ? If I were at
home I'd adopt him, and send him to Yale College
when he grew up. He might, perhaps, hecome a shining
light in the church or at the har. At any rate, he's
got good limgs" — for as I said this the young rogue
spread out his arms and legs, and squalled in such a
manner as to make a long echo in the woods.

Afber some reflection, I concluded to ahandon my
hoat, and to march across the country to the west,
hoping to reach the Burmese territories, and thus
escape all danger of heing captured by the Siamese.
Taking a hundle containing my rice, a little sugar, and
my saucepan, and swinging Moses like an Indian
papoose in a sack over my shoulder, I set out upon my
journey.

The country over which I now passed consisted of
elevated harren ridges, with narrow valleys between,
which, in some cases, were well wooded, and covered
with a rich tropical vegetation. These places I avoided
on account of their impenetrable thickets, and the
dangerous beasts and venomous reptiles which infested
them. Thus obliged to keep to the hills and moun-
tidns, my course was circuitous, and my actual progress
very slow. After six days' severe march, I had pro-
bably advanced, in a direct line, less than a hundred
miles. I began now to find my strength giving way,
and a strange apprehension came over me. I had not
seen a village, or even a house, during my journey.
The country was in general desolate, and calculated to

THE BABY SIOKEKS. 127

depress the spirits by its aspect of loneliness. It was
the dry season, and the birds, insects, and wild beasts
had mostly withdrawn to the valleys.

Added to all this, I could not but notice that my
little companion was, day by day, growing pallid and
thin. He wailed a good deal, especially when I put
him on my back. I then took him in my arms, and
carried him as gently a* possible. But all motion
seemed to distress him. When I stopped and sat
down, he became quiet ; and when I spoke to him, he
looked pleased, and a little faint smile dimpled his
chin and cheeks. But this soon passed away, and a
mild sadness settled upon his cherub face. I began to
feel very bad about him, and deeply pondered as to
what ought to be done. I tried to think over all the
ways and means I Jiad seen practised at home, for the
benefit of sick children. But what could I do ? I had
no medicine ; I was not a physician ; I was not even a
nurse. My heart sank within me, for the little crea-
ture had taken hold of my feelings, and I felt as much
interest in him as if I had been his father. When the
thought came across me that he might die, the tears
gushed out, as if I had been a boy.

I now cast about for a place where we might have
shelter, and this I soon found beneath a shelving rock,
overspread by trees resembling our hemlock. Here I
made a bed of leaves for Moses, and when I laid him
in it, he seemed quite content. I now rambled about
in search of water, and was gone for half an hour.
Having filled my saucepan, I returned, and, as I ap-
proached the bed of the boy, I saw, with horror, an
animal resembling a leopard, crouched on his belly
close to him, and about to make a fatal spring

128 THE BABY DIES — Hi! HO !

upon him. I screamed aloud, and rushed upon the
beast, which was taken bj surprise, and ran awaj
like a cat.

I now did everything I could think of for the poor
sick and sinking child. Night soon set in, and though
I was very weary,! did not sleep. I heard a wild, shrill
mewing in the woods, and several times it came near,
and I saw two bright eyes, like balls of fire, between the
trees at a little distance. At another time all this might
have excited emotions of fear, but such was my anxiety
for Moses, that I felt a kind of relief in watching the wild
beast that threatened me, and in contemplating the
battle that was certain to follow, if he came within
reach of my fist.

The night seemed very, very long, but the dawn at
last came. My little patient was evidently fast passing
away. He was perfectly still, and showed no signs of
pain. His breath was light as a summer breeze. As
the sun came up, it shone through the trees fair upon
his face. A faint slight sigh came from his bosom. It
was his last ; he was gone : I was alone. Never was
there anything in nature more sad, more beautiful, than
that dead infant — so still, so cold, and yet with such a
strange mysterious smile over the whole countenance.
I shed many tears, — ^nay, I may as well confess it ; I
cried like a very child — and then I buried him in the
rock.

I CONTINtTE MT JOTJEKBT. 129

CHAPTER XVIII.

I contitme my Journey. — Encamp in a Valley. — Terrific Storm and
a Dismal Night. — Take Lodgings in a Buddhist Temple. —
Monkeys follow my Example. — The Image of Buddha keels over.
— Tremblings of the Earth. — The Temple is inundated. — A
Deluge. — ^I take to a Tree. — Monkeys, Lizards, Anacondas, and
Tigers, are lodged in the Tops of the Forest. — Anxious Bieflec-
tions. — Escape on a Baft. — Arrive at Ava. — Description of
Burmah. — The Emperor. — The Burmese. — Meeting with Butter
Fate.

With a heavy heart and a lingering step I took my
leave of the burial-place of my little companion ; and,
still pursuing a westerly course, at the end of two days
I came to a region consisting of tall, rugged mountains,
traversed by long, narrow, and winding valleys. It
seemed to be a huge wall, made to be a perpetual
barrier between nations. I conceived this to be the
boundary of the Siamese dominions, and so it after-
wards proved.

It was, however, nearly a week before I had crossed
these mountains ; and, when at last I reached the
western ridge and began to descend the slope, which
shelved down to a wide plain, I was worn out with
fatigue. Coming at length to a hill, on the edge of the
valley, which was covered with palm trees, I determined
to «tay a day or two, in order to recruit. The place
was inviting, for the trees afforded shade from the sun,
and by the abundance of monkeys grinning at me from
the branches, I concluded I should find cocoa-nuts and
other fruits.

I made myself a hut of a few sticks set in the groimd,
with a roof of palm leaves, and, as it was now eveaing,
I turned in and had a good night's sleep. It was June,
and the trees which had cast their leaves in May, were
now clothed in the most abundaat Ne'^^\»^\Aa\i^vcsi^'t<^'^^

130 TEBBHTO STOBH AIQ) A DISMAL NIGHT.

by light rains which had fallen at intervals. In the
morning I got some cocoa-nuts, and, after a good break-
fast, laid down again in my cabin, and snoozed away the
entire day.

As evening approached, I perceived a great movement
in the clouds, and soon the rain began to fall in torrents.
The lightning flashed terribly, and the thunder pealed
and echoed along the mountain slopes, shaking the
earth in a most extraordinary manner. I was soon wet
to the skin, but there was no help for it, and so I laid
still. The wind, however, began to sweep by in gusts,
and rushing in currents through the open spaces
beneath the trees, capsized my hut, and left me to the
pelting of the rain.

I passed a dismal night, and in the morning I cast
about for some substantial shelter. I soon came to a
mass of shrubbery, and forcing my way into the thicket,
found the ruins of a Buddhist temple. It was all
thrown down ; but I perceived a staircase through an
opening in the basement, and in I went. I descended
some twenty feet, and here I discovered a kind of
chapel, with a smooth, level floor. There were deep
niches in the sides, and near one of them I found an
image of Buddha, but, strange to say, he stood on his
head, with his huge beast-like heels in the air. The
place was very dark and dismal, but it was no time to
be particular : so I gathered some loose stones, made
myself a seat, and sat down.

The storm continued to rage without, and I distinctly
felt shocks of an earthquake. The huge stone image of
Buijdha was greatly disturbed, and finally it took a sort
of leap, tumbled forward, and assumed an erect position
immediately before me. Soon after a whole troop of
monkeya came straggling in ; I supposed at first that

TBEMBLINOS OF THE EABTH. 131

they came to drive me out of my retreat ; but they
slunk away in the nooks and comers, and sitting down
upon their haunches, doubled themselves up, shivering
and whining like a parcel of frightened children. It
was obvious that the shock of the elements had
deprived them of their wonted vivacity, and that, like
myself, they had come to seek security in the recesses
of the ruined building. They manifested no fear of me ;
most of them kept aloof, but they looked at me, and
winked with countenances full of respect. When the
wind howled louder than usual around the entrance of
the cavern, or when the thunder broke over us with
imwonted violence, two or three of them crept towards
me, and squatted at my side. One of them at last
edged along on his rump, so close as to touch me. I
offered to shake hands with him, but he rather snap-
pishly declined the honour, and, as if insulted, retreated
behind Buddha, where he kept himself snug, occasionally
peering at me roimd the bulky haunches of the god.

The whole day passed, and as night approached, it
seemed as if the war of wind and rain and lightning was
redoubled. The room of the temple, which had been
faintly lighted during the day, was now perfectly dark,
except that the lightning came in at the entrance and
filled it at intervals with its flashes. About midnight
I heard a strange, confused sound, and felt the earth
shudder beneath my feet. At the same moment every
one of the monkeys started and scampered out of
the cavern. I had no idea what had happened, but I
thought I might as well go and see.

It is impossible to describe the scene now before me.
By the glare of the lightning I could perceive that the
plain around me had been converted into a sea, swelling
and rushing forward in one wide^foamvTik:^ Q.\xrcL^^% T^^

il2

132 A DELTTGB — I TAKE TO A TBEE.

top of the hill alone was still uncovered. The waters
were already at the very mouth of the cavern, and while
I stood on the threshold, they rose and hegan to tumble
in headlong dashes down the staircase.

For a moment I became giddy with surprise, and
perhaps with fear. What indeed could I do ? Whither
could I fly ? There was no safety on the whirling tide
— ^there seemed no refuge on the trembling earth. I
stood paralyzed, and already the waters curled over my
feet, and rose to my ankles. The last patch of earth
had disappeared. I cast a look upward, and there, on a
sturdy palm tree, I saw several monkeys. I fancied
there was a fellow-feeling in their look ; and so, reduced
to extremity, I did not consider it beneath me to follow
their example. When a monkey does the best thing
that can be done, a wise man loses no dignity by walk-
ing in his footsteps. I therefore mounted the tree, and
climbing into its top, found quite a comfortable resting-
place between two of its upper branches. I even con-
trived to weave together some of its broad leaves in
such a manner as to form a kind of roof, which afforded
shelter from the rain. One of the monkeys liked the
idea, and, with a face of ludicrous importance, began to
imitate me. He succeeded at last in weavins: three
leaves together, and he put his head under them : but
finding the rest of his body exposed to the storm, he
pettishly tore his work in pieces, mounted high into a
fork of the tree, and sulked like a spoilt child. I
believe it was the same chap I had offered to shake
hands with. "Well," thought I, "these monkeys
greatly resemble other folks; that fellow, as to his
temper, is just like my schoolmate. Bill Pitcher, at
Sandy Plain. Bill was always getting into the sulks:
he took to povLting as naturally as he did to his hasty-

ANIMALS IN THE TBEES. 133

pudding. The only way was to let him alone, and after
a while he got over it, and was all the better for it."
So it happened with the offended monkey. After
sitting for two hours in the crotch of the tree, he came
down grinning, and skulked into my cabin as if he was
one of my family. I said nothing, but I gave Sulky a
meaning look, which he returned, it being very clear
that we now understood each other perfectly.

The rain continued for two days, during which the
waters rose to within about two feet of me. Around,
and at no great distance, there were about fifty palm
trees, whose tops were still above the surface of the
tide. These were occupied by monkeys, lizards of
various kinds, and serpents, coiling in the branches. At
no great distance, I saw a leopard in the forks of a
tree, and, by his side, a boa-constrictor, both so sub-
dued by terror and adversity, that they seemed totally
unconscious of each other's presence.

I had before heard of the terrible storms, inundations,
and earthquakes that take place in Southern Asia, at
the beginning of the rainy season. I knew that these
agitations of nature were particularly violent in the
Burmese territories, where 1 now was, but T had never
imagined anything so frightful as what I here beheld.
A broad valley had been converted into a lake in the
space of three days ; the wild animals had been driven
from their haunts ; the nature of the venomous reptile
and savage beast had been subdued and changed ; the
inhabitants of the cave and the rock, had been driven
from their hiding-places ; the crocodile and the leopard
perched on the branches of trees : and man and monkeys
alike sought shelter in the frail abodes of the feathered
tribes !

But how was all this to end ? Tkafc '^^va ^. ^<«\<5pcj»a.

134 AirXIOTJS BEELEOTIOirS — ^ESCAPE OS" A EAPT.

question for me. It is true that I was tolerably well
off for the moment. I had caught three or four cocoa-
nuts, as they went swimming by, and my seat was
tolerably comfortable. But how long was the deluge
to last ? Was it to be like the Old Deluge, forty days
in its progress, and a whole year in leaving the face
of nature P I was a stranger in a strange land, and I
should have been particularly happy to have been in-
formed on this subject. I asked my monkey neighbour
about it, but he looked very wise and said not a word,
which has given me a disgust, ever since, of all those
people who roll up their eyes and are silent when there
is trouble on hand. There is a great deal more comfort
in talking, and being talked to, than most people
imagine. I would have given a first-rate Waterbury
clock, with an alarm and a landscape extra, to have
had somebody near by, just to hear me talk, during
those long, tedious days, while I was roosting in the
top of a palm tree. I hallooed pretty loud several
times, but the only consequence was that the monkeys
on my tree showed signs of uneasiness, the leopard
crawled up a little higher, the alligator winked, and
the anaconda girded the branch on which he clung a
little tighter with his tail.

It was at the end of four days that two logs came
floating along, and struck broadside across the tree
where I sat. They were bound together by a rope of
bark ; and, without hesitation, I got on to them, and,
giving them a turn, put them fairly into the current.
I took an affectionate leave of the monkeys, serpents,
reptiles, and other monsters, and launched forth upon
my voyage. I went along at a great rate, and, in a
few hours, I was taken off by two men in a boat.
These persons were Burmese, The king of the

▲BBITE AT ATA — DBSCEIPTIOS' OF BUBMAH. 135

country was at war with England at this time, and
these men, supposing me to be an Englishman, took
me to Ava, the capital, and delivered me up as a
prisoner. I was soon released, however, on making it
known that I was an American.

I found Ava to be a much smaller city than I sup-
posed. It does not contain over thirty thousand in-
habitants, and most of the houses are mere huts,
covered with thatch. The place takes its name from
Aug-wa, which means fish-pond; and it appears that
a fish-pond once occupied the site of the present city.

It consists of an outer and inner town, both of
which are fortified. The inner part comprises little
more than the palace, which, however, is seldom occu-
pied by the king, the city of Monchobo, twenty-seven
miles west, being the real capital. Ava contains many
Buddhist temples, one of which has an image of
Buddha, or Gadama, twenty-foiur feet high, made of a
single block of marble. In the markets, I saw some
British, American, and Chinese manufactiures.

Burmah is an extensive country, and contains five
or six millions of inhabitants. I did not call upon the
king, but I imderstood that he is almost as black as a
negro, though he loves to be called The Golden. Thus
the people talk of speaking to the Golden Ear ; falling
down at the Golden Feet, &c. He is very ignorant,
and does not know as much as a boy who has been
through one of our common schools ; yet the people
call him Lord of Life and Limb ; they even bow down
before his palace walls, and when they are riding by,
they dismount and take off their shoes. This sounds
very strange to us, but ignorant people may be very
easily brought up to make fools of themselves by artful
and designing persons.

136 THE BrBMESX — MEET WITH BVTTEB PATE.

The inhabitants of Burmah are almost exclusively
worshippers of Buddah. It is a curious fact that
people who have an absurd religion are usually absurd
in most other things. The priests get a good living,
and have great power, through the influence of Bud-
dhism ; so they try to make everybody believe it and
practise it.

In Burmah there are several races, some of whom
live in remote districts, and are almost independent of
the government. In general, the people are short and
stout, with an olive complexion, and coarse, lank, black
hair. The most refined have little education, and
more than half are mere barbarians. They do not
know how to whistle, and I had some thoughts of
setting up a whistling-school, but circumstances soon
led my thoughts in another direction.

During my late adventures in Siam, and my journey
to Ava, I had contrived to keep the greater part of my
money, which amounted to about two hundred and
forty-five dollars. This was a considerable sum in
Burmah, and yet it was very little to take back to
Sandy Plain. I had given up, entirely, my lost clocks,
and was casting about for some means by which 1
could gain a fortune, so as to return home and make a
sensation.

While I was ruminating on this subject, I chanced
to meet with my old friend Butter Pate, the Thibetan
priest. He had successfully accomplished his mission,
having foimded in Hu6 a central institution for the
benefit of aged and reduced crickets, with one hundred
auxiliaries. Being now on his way back to his native
country, he invited me to accompany him, promising to
show me to the Grand Lama, and do his best to make
mjr fortunes thrive, if any chance should offer. I

THE OBEAT BIYEB IBBAWADI. 137

thought the offer too good to be lost, and so, without
long delay, we took a boat that was going up the river
Irrawadi, and began our journey.

CHAPTER XIX.

Suggestions as to a Map of the Countries I travel. — The great river
Irrawadi. — Our Voyage. — The Rainy Season. — The City of
Bhamo. — We buy two Ponies, and leave this Place. — Continue
our Journey. — Assam. — Butter Pate loses a Toe, and shows a
want of Manly Fortitude. — The instructive Story of Grip and
Dot. — A Dialogue on Charms. — ^Priestcraft a profitable Pro-
fession.

I MUST beg my readers who wish to understand my
travels, to keep before them a map of the countries I
visit. It will be seen that the Irrawadi is not only the
greatest river in Burmah, but actually one of the great
rivers of Asia. It rises in the mountainous regions of
Thibet, breaks through the great barrier of the Hima-
laya range, and pursuing a southerly course of 600
miles, empties into the eastern part of the great Bay of
Bengal. It passes nearly through the centre of Bur-
mah, and is the principal thoroughfare of its commerce.

The boat in which I was now ascending this river,
in company with the Thibetan priest, was a sort of
canoe with two masts, each of which had a small sail of
matting. It was a long, narrow craft, made of the
trunk of a huge tree, but it got along better than one
could have expected. The boatmen showed great skill
and activity, and evinced a real genius for their voca-
tion.

The rainy season was pretty much over, but the
river was still swollen ; and the rapidity of the current
against which we were contendixi^ daVK^^i^ ^xxs. ^gts^

i

138 THE CITY OF BHAMO.

gress, though we were assisted by a steady wind from
the south. There were a great number of boats and
vessels on the river, some going up and some down the
stream, thus showing that a very active and extended
commerce exists in this country. The towns and vil-
lages along the river were numerous, but we saw none
of great size till we reached Bhamo, — 180 miles north-
east of Ava.

We remained at this city a week, and I found it a
most interesting place. Next to Kangoon and Ava, it is
the largest city in Burmah — containing about 20,000
inhabitants. It is only forty miles west of the Chinese
frontier. The people consist of Chinese and Burmese,
with a sprinkling of Tartars, Thibetans, Shans, &c., all
marked with their national peculiarities of language,
dress, and personal appearance. There is a very exten-
sive trade here, and I have seldom seen a more curious
spectacle than that which is exhibited at the chief
market-place or bazaar. Here are cotton, woollen, and
silk in variety.

The Chinese portion of the inhabitants have pretty
good houses, generally of brick : those of the natives
are made of reeds, covered with grass-thatch. Each
house has a railing of thatch around it. Several
fine villages are found near the town. The trade in
woollens, silks, and cottons is in the hands of the
Chinese. Several hundreds of Chinese traders arrive
here in caravans, during the months of December and
January, and then the city has a very busy and lively
appearance. The climate is hot, but not oppressive :
the country around is prolific and finely cultivated.
The market of Bhamo is well-stocked with game,
fowls, meat, and vegetables, with g^eat variety and
abundance of fruits. The Chinese costume, consisting

"WB BITT TWO POKIBS— ASSAM. 189

of a short jacket and short loose trousers, prevails to a
considerable extent, even among the Burmese.

I left Bhamo with some regret, for it is really an ex-
traordinary place, from the variety of people to be seen
there, from the activity of its trade, the beauty of its
climate, and the abundance of its fruits and other pro-
ducts. We now pursued our voyage on the river for
two days, and then taking to the land. Butter Pate
and I bought two horses not bigger than ponies, and
proceeded in a westerly course toward Assam. The
road, consisting only of a bridle-path, passed over a
hilly country, covered with wood. In the course of
four days' travel we came to three villages. Two
nights we spent in little shanties, by the roadside, with-
out inhabitants.

Assam consists mostly of the fine valley of the river
Burrampooter ; this is surrounded by lofty mountains,
the tops of which are covered with snow in winter.
The inhabitants are barbarians, and there are no large
towns. The houses are mostly built of bamboo. Silk
is produced by wild insects. Silver, iron, lead, and
other minerals are found. Pepper, ginger, mustard,
beans of many kinds, oranges, bananas, and other fruits
are cultivated. The people consist of many tribes, and
bear a general resemblance to the Burmese. Kice is the
principal article of food, but serpents, rats, dogs,
monkeys, and grasshoppers are esteemed very delicious.
The chiefs of the tribes administer the government,
such as it is. The whole province is subject to the
British, who keep two regiments of Assam soldiers
and two gun-boats at Suddya, on the Burrampooter.
The whole country, containing 600,000 people, is kept
in subjection by this paltry force.

Our route lay along the noTthein Viotdst ^t ^<^ \x^^

140 BTJTT£B PATE LOSES A TOE, AND

vince. We came, at one place, to an immense road or
causeway of stone, built ages ago, and the history of
which is entirely lost. Several similar roads cross the
country, and one extends from Bengal, in India, to the
eastern border of Assam.

This country is remarkable for the number of its
rivers, most of which are without bridges. In crossing
one of them, my friend. Butter Pate, came very near
being drowned. His little horse was a good swimmer,
but the priest was fat and heavy, and the poor beast
sank under him. I saw the danger, and the river not
being deep, thanks to my long legs, I was able to get
both to land. The priest, however, had lost one of his
great toes by the bite of a crocodile. He was so
frightened, that he was not aware of his misfortune
till some time after he was ashore. He then felt a
tingling at the extremity of his foot which caused him
to look in that direction. When he saw the blood
running, and perceived that a piece of his body was
gone, he bellowed like a boy. " Ook-a-doo-do — ook-a-
doo-do," said he at least a dozen times, the tears
rolling down his yellow velvet cheeks, and his counte-
nance being distorted by a woful expression of pain.

" My dear friend," said I, "you are a priest and a
religious man. You should be consoled. Think how
happy you ought to be that the crocodile took only a
toe, instead of a leg."

" Ook-a-doo-do l" said he, " you talk to a priest as if
he were a man."

" And why not ? — are you not a man ?"

" Ook-a-doo-do — not at all. I am a priest — a sancti-
fied one. Do you not see this holy amulet attached to
my neck ?"

''And what is that ?"

SHOWS A WANT OP MANLY POETITTJDE. 141

" It is a ray of the divine essence : it is a piece of
a wart cut from the Grand Lama's forefinger."

" If it had been on your great toe, probably it would
have turned the crocodile's stomach, and saved you
harmless."

" The vain words of an unbeliever show the sin that
festers in his soul. Ook-a-doo-do — ook-a-doo-do ! "

" But really, my friend, do not give way to such
unavailing grief. Think of the consolations you have
given to others in their trials, and now apply them to
yourself."

" Ook-a-doo-do. You talk hke a child ; the loss of
a toe is irreparable ; it will never grow again. Besides,
it hurts! Ook-a-doo-do — it thrills to my hip, and
from my hip to every part of my body. Oh, that this
shotdd have happened to Father Butter Pate ! Ook-a-
doo-do — that it should have happened to me, assured
of safety by a relic holier than an angel's eyebrow.
Ook-a-doo-do — I have been guilty of some mortal sin.
Was it eating that leg of a rat on Wednesday ? — or was
it that I slept last night with my feet to the west ?
Ook-a-doo-do — ^who can tell ? Would that some brother
of the holy faith of Gadama were here to pour the oil
of consolation into my bosom."

" That would be very well, no doubt ; but the best
way to heal the mind, just now, is to mind the body.
Come, I am a pretty good surgeon. I have gathered
some plantain leaves ; pray let me bind them over the
woimd. I will engage that you shall be cured in a
week."

The poor man said not a word, though he groaned
and writhed while I proceeded to tie up his foot.
Luckily, as the toe was gone, it had been cut square
off, as if the amputation had \i^«i\i ^^tl^rscka^ \s^ ^

142 8T0BY OE GBIP AJSfD DOT.

hatchet. I made a neat job of it, and then prepared
to resume our journey. The priest's pony — at peace
both in body and mind — ^was quietly grazing at a short
distance. We both mounted, but my friend's foot gave
him such pain that he could not proceed. At last I
brought his wounded leg upon the shoulder of the pony,
and in this attitude we went slowly forward.

It was impossible to rouse my companion from the
sadness which brooded over him. I suggested to him
that he should find relief in his religion. He replied,
snappishly, "I have told you that our religion was
made for the common people." I suggested that it
was not manly to give way to such grief for such an
accident. " Ah," said he, you have never lost a toe I"
I told him that he should remember that the pain
would soon be over. "To-morrow," said he, "cannot
annihilate to-day !"

" Shall I tell you a story ?" said I.

" Speak," said he ; and I began, while my poor friend
clasped tighter the ankle of his wounded limb with one
of his hands, as if to alleviate by pressure the agony he
suffered.

" Once upon a time," said I.

" Ook-a-doo-do," said he.

I went on. " Once upon a time there was an — "

" Ook-a-doo-do."

" No, no ; not an ook-a-doo-do," said I, " but an old
monkey with two children. He was the patriarch of all
monkeydom roimd about that place. He was not only
stricken in years, and of a venerable aspect, but he was
deemed the wisest philosopher of his time. At last, he
said to his two sons, * I am too old to live in the
woods ; I must retire to yonder cave, and lay myself

STOBY or GBIP AITD DOT. 143

down amid the bones of my ancestors, and there I
must die. Listen to my last words. It is according
to the traditions of our family, which belongs to a
noble race, that the eldest son should inherit the
fortune of the father, that he may transmit it to future
generations. Here, Grip, is a golden chain which I
stole from a ^reat magician. Take it ; keep it around
your neck, and be happy. Nothing can harm you
while you have this protection. As for my younger
son. Dot, I shall give him some advice ; it is all I can
bequeath to him. Be a good monkey and take care of
yom'self !' Having said this, the aged patriarch retired
to the cave, and was heard of no more.

" Well, the two monkeys soon parted, and for a long
time they did not see each other. But at last there
came a terrible pestilence, and nearly all the monkeys
in that region died of it. The rest concluded to emi-
grate to another country, as the only means of safety.
In their way they came to a river, and it was necessary
to cross it. At this point the two brothers met, after
their long separation. * How are you going to cross the
lake ?' said Grip to Dot. * On a piece of bark,' was the
reply. * Poh,' said Grip, * why don't you swim ?'

'* ' I am afraid of the alligators,' said Dot.

"*Poh,' said Grip, *that is all well enough for a
common monkey, but I shall swim. None of your
vulgar tricks for me. I have a chain that saves me
from the necessity of such paltry devices. I am a
privileged monkey !'

"Saying this. Grip launched into the stream. At
the same time. Dot set forth on a broad piece of bark,
and, using a stick for an oar, he glided swiftly over the
water. Pretty soon he saw a terrible plashing at a

144 A DIALOGUE ON CBABMS.

little distance. Looking in that direction, be heard his
brother Grip cry out, * Boo-boo ? what are you doing,
Mister Alligator ?*

'* * I am eating you up,' said the latter.

" * But it's a mistake ; you are eating the wrong one.
I've got a sacred chain and amulet around my neck.
I'm the eldest son.'

" * You'll be all the sweeter,' said AUi, and with that
be opened bis jaws wide, and poor Grip was gone ! Dot
went a-head with his bark boat, and got safe ashore."
Here I paused.

" And what then ?" said the priest.

"Why, you see," said I, "that the preference given
to the elder son was, in fact, bis destruction. Thus
parents often ruin their children whom they endow with
fortunes, while those who are lefb to rely upon their own
good sense are successful in life."

" Your story may instruct others, but it is barren to
a priest, who has no children."

" Perhaps even a priest may gather something
from it."

"How so?"

" Let me ask you a question. When you were cross-
ing the river, why did you not bold your ffeet up on the
saddle as I did, for surely you saw the crocodiles in the
water?"

" Yes, I saw them ; but I was armed with the wart
of the Sublime Lama."

" And so you lost your great toe."

" It is too true ; but I had not faith in my heart."

" You bad too much ; you reHed upon your amulet,
and not upon common sense."

" You reason like a child of this world. The amulet
must be accompanied by faith. If I bad kept my mind

▲ DIALOOT7B OK CHABMS. 145

upon the holy relic, my toe had been npon my foot at
this very moment; however, I shall get it restored
when I reach Pootala."

"How soP*

" We hare charms there for such things."

"Indeed?"

" Can yon doubt it ?"

" I do doubt."

" What an obstinate unbeliever !"

" I am an unbeliever in charms and relics, and all
that sort of thing, for you see, without them I am safe,
ftnd with them you have lost a toe."

" What faith have you, then ?"

" I belong to a Christian country. Our religion
teaches us to obey Gk)d. Now, he has given us reason
as our guide. When we follow this, we obey him;
when we act against reason, we disobey him. When a
person comes and tells us that he has an old man's
wart, or some other relic, and that these will perform
miracles, our reason tells us such things are false, and if
we believe such things, we disobey Q-od. Our religion
teaches us that God is good and wise. Now, can he be
good and wise if he gives to those paltry relics the
power to overturn the laws of nature ? Can he be
good and wise who rules by relics, which may be true
or false, and which may be mere instruments of decep-
tion and fraud, instead of ruling by universal laws,
which all may know and understand ?"

" This is mere worldly philosophy."

" Yes ; and good philosophy too, because, as yet, we
are in the world. We are here, I admit, as candidates
for another. I admit that this life is only the pathway
to another and higher state of existence. But we need
guides and Hghts to show ua tYift'v^'j. feaA*0GR5»

146 PBIESTCBATT, ▲ PBOPITABLE PBOPESSIOK.

guides should speak a language we can understand;
these lights should be adapted to our organs of vision.
If our guides talk a strange tongue, how do we know
what they say, how do we know that they are not mere
deceivers ? If these lights are not suited to our vision,
they serve only to dazzle or bewilder us."

" Do you not believe, then, in a religious faith, higher
even than worldly wisdom ?"

" Certainly ; but it is worldly wisdom that points it
out, that proves it to be a religious^ and not an irreli-
gious faith. Faith is the higher light of the soul; but
in order to see it, to try it, and to appreciate it, the
clear sense of the himian understanding must be kept
always shining. God has given to every human being
a lamp, and commanded him to walk by its light. That
lamp is common sense.'*

'' But if we give up relics, images, charms, and the
like, what advantage have the priests, who are the
great support of Buddhism f "

" I am not prepared to answer."

" Eemember, the priests make the reUcs, images,
charms, &c. ; if they seU them, they enjoy the profit ;
if they use them, they have a great advantage over
other people. I think if you destroy these things, you
destroy the power of the priests, and Buddhism itself
would fall."

"What then?"

" Our holy religion would be overturned."

" Then you can adopt ours."

" That seems to me sheer infidelity."

" And yours appears to me a system of superstition
and fraud."

" But I hope to convert you !"
^^And I hope to convert you /"
''Ooir-a-doo-do, how my foottwmge&V^

THB BIYEB BVBBAMPOOTEB — BOOTAK. 147

CHAPTER XX.

The River Burrampooter. — Bootan. — Descriptioii of the Conntry. —
The Qmntiiig Ox. — The Bootanees. — City of Paro. — Arrival at
Tassisadon. — Description of the Place. — The Deb-Bajah. — Eating
Grasshoppers on Thursday. — ^Boming of a Dead Body. — The
Priests, or (^ylongs. — We leave Tassisndon, and proceed toward
Thibet. — The Himalaya Mountains. — Desolation of the Scene. —
Intensity of the Cold. — Difficulty of Breathing. — ^I come near
perishing. — Am relieved by a Hermit. — How the Eootooktoo
takes Money. — Magnificent View from the Tops of the Moun-
tains. — ^Descent to the Plains of Thibet.

Mt journey, in company with my Thibetan friend,
continued several days without any remarkable incident.
We crossed the river Bramahputra, or Burrampooter,
and soon after entered the territories of the little state
of Bootan. This lies at the north-east comer of Hin-
dostan, and occupies the lower portions of the southern
slope of the Himalaya mountains. It is a wild, rough
region, its whole extent being about twice as large as
New England, and its inhabitants 1,500,000 in number.

Our route lay along the middle portion of this
country ; to the north the mountams, with tops covered
with eternal snow, rising in bleak pyramids to the clouds,
occupied the view ; to the south, the country sloped
downinto level plains and luxuriant jungles — ^the abodes,
as we were told, of innumerable wild animals, such as
elephants, tigers, rhinoceroses, &c. We frequently saw
among the hills small troops of buffaloes, and here and
there A^aik, or grunting ox, which is remarkable for a
long tail of silky hair, somewhat like that of a horse.
The horses here are fine, and most of them are of
various colours, called pie-bald.

The Bootanees are quite different from the Hindoos,
as well as the Burmese. They are generally of good
height, and many are six feet. They baJ^l^ ^^<b ^^f^-

Ii2

f

148 THE BOOTAITEES — OITT OP PASO

bones, the face terminating in a narrow pointed chin,
giving them a three-cornered, fox-like outline of phy-
siognomy. The eye is small and black ; the beard is
light ; the hair black. The climate of the country is
cool, and the clothing mostly of woollen cloth. Turnips
seem to be the chief garden vegetable that is cultivated
here.

The Bootanees are a barbarous people ; their houses,
consisting of one story, are mere huts. Sometimes a
man has many wives, and often a wife has several hus-
bands. In passing through the country, we had great
occasion to admire the suspension bridges, which are
often of chains of iron, though more frequently of
timbers ingeniously locked together. Many of them
are thrown across rivers sixty, or even seventy, feet
above the stream below. The people make aqueducts
for water, by hollowing out logs and placing them
under ground. They manufacture paper and satin
from the bark of a tree ; they also make idols, swords,
daggers, and the barbs of arrows, the latter being
dipped in poison. The bow and arrow are used for
hunting and war, though fire-arms are beginning to be
introduced.

At the town of Faro, which is not far from the
southern frontier of Thibet, we found considerable
manufactures of these latter utensils. This place has
some trade, and here is the principal market of Bootan.
Some commerce is carried on between this town and
Bengal at the south, and Thibet at the north ; this,
however, is in the hands of the government. Indigo,
English woollens, cotton, and linen cloths, sandal wood,
asafoetida, sheet-copper, teas, gunpowder, &c., are
brought hither ; coarse woollen cloths, wax, ivory, gold
dwst, Bilver, and, horses are given in exchange.

TABBISirSOlfr — THE DSB-BAJAH. 149

From Faro, we proceeded twelve miles north to
Tasaisudon, the capital of Bootan. Here I learned
something about the government. It seems that the
nominal chief of the country is called DharmO'Bqfah,
He is conceived to be above mortal men, and, in fact,
is deemed a god. The actnal business of government
is confided to an officer called Deb-Bajdh,

The city of Tassisudon is mostly a collection of one-
story houses, and the palace of the Deb-Bajah is quite
magnificent compared with the rest of the town. I
was very anxious to see the great men of Bootan, but
the Dharma-Bajah was living at Funukka, and a curious
difficulty prevented us from seeing the Deb-Bajah. It
seems there is a schism m the Buddhist religion here,
one sect believing in eating grasshoppers on Thursday,
and the other believing it to be a deadly sin to eat
them on that day. Tassisudon is full of priests, or
lamas, and in one of their monasteries or lamassaries
my Thibetan friend and myself were lodged.

We sent notice to the Deb-Bajah of our arrival, and
our desire to present our respects to him. We were
accordingly invited to come to his palace the next day
at sunrise. We went at the precise hour, and were met
at the door by a man in a long black gown, and wearing
a high conical cap, who asked us who and what we
were. To this we made a proper reply.

''Do you hold, then," said he, ''to eating grass-
hoppers on Thursday ?*'

The priest seemed to be in doubt how to answer,
and pointed to me, as much as to say — " Ask him first."

" Well," said the man in the black gown, " do you
believe in eating grasshoppers on Thursday ?"

" I don't believe in eating them at all," said I.

" Thou art a heathen," said the maav^ " «s!l^ ^%£ssi^

150 EATura gbasshoppebs ok thubsdat.

enter here. If grasshoppers are not made to be eaten,
they are made in vain, which is imputing foUy to the
Creator !"

I was about to reply, when the man waved his hand
imperiously, in token of silence. He then turned to
my companion for his answer. The latter spoke as
follows :

" The question you propose is too important to be
answered hastily. I am myself a man of religion : I am
a lama of Thibet. I have knelt at the feet of the thrice
divine Grand Lama, of the holy temple of Pootala ; and
his breath is the dew of heaven ! I have a right to ask
thee questions, and to require an answer. What is the
day of the week?"

"Wednesday," said the man.

"Yes; and to-morrow, what will you have for
dinner?"

" Grasshoppers and tiumips."

" I should be happy to dine with you."

" So ; you eat grasshoppers on Thursday ?"

" Certainly."

" Oh ! I see — ^you are of our faith : I will introduce
you to the Deb-Eajah, but your unbelieving attendant
cannot enter."

There was no help for it, so I turned away and
wandered about the town. I soon came to the river
on which Tassisudon is situated, and here, at the
bank, I saw a great collection of people. Pretty soon
there came a long procession of priests, and I saw that
four of them had something quite heavy, bearing it
forward on a sort of rude litter. When they came near
the water, they put it down on a pile of brush. I then
perceived it was the dead body of a man. After some
prajrers and other ceremonies were performed over the

THE PBIESTS, OB aTLOKGfl. 151

body, the fagots were set on fire, and the corpse was
speedily reduced to ashes ; these were then taken up
on a shovel and thrown into the river. The priests
who are here called gylongs, are a brutal-looking set,
and their horrid groans and grimaces in these rites
were truly shocking. I returned to my lodgings quite
sick at the spectacle I had witnessed.

Having remained three days at Tassisudon, we took
our departure, and proceeded northward in a direct
line toward Thibet. We had some severe travelling
before us. The route lay over tall, precipitous moun-
tains and deep valleys. The paths were rocky and
often encumbered by trees which had fallen across
them — as we advanced — from the shaggy sides of the
impending cliffs. Every day we rose higher and higher
upon that stupendous bulwark of mountains which
separates Thibet from Edndostan.

We were moimted on the two little horses — or rather,
ponies — ^which we had purchased in Assam. They
were tough, vigorous fellows, and performed their task
admirably; still it was hard work for them, and often
as we rode along the dizzy edges of the rocks, hanging
over deep and dismal gulfs and gorges, it seemed as
if they would inevitably fall over and carry us to
destruction.

At length we arrived in the region of snow. Ail
aroimd had now the aspect of perfect winter, though it
was the month of August. We continued to ascend
higher and higher, while far beyond we could see the
moimtains, like bluish clouds, still rising above us.
Every vestige of life now disappeared. The wild goats
were no longer seen skipping over the glaciers; the
snow-white owls that flitted before us were gone, not
a blasted pine— not even a lichen, cree^m*^ cs^^y ^<b

152 piVriGVLTX OF BfiSATHIKO.

ftQoks, was visible. The whole scene consisted of glaciers
as hard and unchangeable as granite. It seemed a
zone of desolation and death. How terrible was the
idea of that freezing atmosphere, which reduces the
whole circle of the seasons into an eternal winter, and
converts the most beautiful element of nature into solid
rock!

I confess that never in my life did I feel such a state
of loneliness and helplessness as in those terrible peaks
of the Himalaya mountains. Nor was mental depres-
sion the only thing I had to suffer. I found it exceed-
ingly difficult to breathe, the air, on account of our
great elevation, being so thin and so different from
what I was accustomed to. Several times I was so
suffocated that the blood gushed out of my mouth and
nostrils, and I should have perished but for some balsam
administered to me by the priest.

I became exceedingly weak, and finally was so fednt
that I could not sit upon my horse. I dismounted
with great difficulty, and while everything seemed to
swim around, I saw a shaggy-looking being approach
me. I thought to myself that I was about to be
seized by a bear, when all consciousness left me, and
I fell to the ground.

"When I awoke I was in a cavern, the priest reposing
at a distance, and the shaggy creature, which I now
saw to be a hermit, sitting by me, and taking care of
me. I soon recovered my senses, and, after a short
time, was entirely restored. I thanked the hermit very
sincerely for his kindness, and remarked that he had
no doubt saved my life.

" You need not give me the credit," said he, " it is
all the work of the Kootooktoo."

^'And who, pray, is the Kootooktoo F" said I.

HOW THB XOOTOOETOO TAKES MONET. 153

'^ He is here !*' said the priest, taking a little mis-
shapen stone image from a nook in iAiB cave, and show-
ing it to me.

^* Indeed!'* said I, ''this seems to me only a bit of
stone, cut into the hideous semblance of a man, or
rather a monkey."

" It was once stone,'* said the hermit, " and it has
the semblance of a monkey ; but it is consecrated, and
is now a thing of power. The spirit of generating and
restoring life is in it. Pay your thanks to it.*'

"Well,*' said I, "good Kootooktoo, I'm much
obliged to you ; and to prove it I here give you five
dollars." So saying, I handed the money to the idol.

"Bah!" said I, "the good Kootooktoo can't take
it. He has the power of generating — he can save life
— ^but he can't take pay for it."

" Leave such low, base, worldly matters to me," said
the priest. " The Kootooktoo is too holy to soil its
fingers with gold." So saying, he greedily took the
cash, and slid it into his pocket. Soon after this I set
out with my friend, and we proceeded on our journey.
I had got a little used to the peculiar atmosphere, and
I suffered less from the difficulty of breathing ; but the
cold was intense, and the scene continued to be a com-
plete solitude of interminable ice and snow.

At last we reached the very pinnacle of the moun-
tains — ^nearly 80,000 feet, or six miles, above the level
of the sea. The air was clear, and we could see far
away to the north over the vast plains of Thibet, and
to the south over the spreading savannahs of Hin-
dostan. These remote objects were indistinct, but
there was a grandeur of outline which gave an im-
pression entirely beyond the power of description.

We now began to descend tha isissvissfcaKSiSk^ ^Ka^ ^sfe»

1$4 rascm lo tem tlsjsm of

tiie eoootij of Tlubel k Yoy devalcd, it wvnotloB^
bcfive we reaelied its boondjries. Tins remote ifgioii,
edthnted as beii^ the seat of the Gmid Lama^tiis
head of that worship whodi has moie hdiercn tiian
aaj other, is little known to Europeans. It is gcne-
raHj defcribed as a Tast plateau or table knd, six or
seren thousand feet abore the levd of the sea, and
abutted bj the most stupendous range of mountains on
the globe.

A few European trarellerB haTe crossed these fior-
midable barriers^ and given imperfect sketches of the
people and the oountiy lying beyond them. Bat stiD,
Thibet is a strange and almost unknown land, and
hence my adventures there, which are not a little extrft>
Ofdinaiy, will, I trust, be interesting to my readers.

CHAPTEB XXI.

ObtetTaiioni upon Thibet. — ^Appearance of the Gonntiy. — People
of Thibet. — Abnndaooe of Ammal Life. — Thibet Goat — Musk
Deer. — Food, Hontes, Tents. — Scardtj of Timber. — ^Mealfl,
Ifnfie, Dancing, and Deyotion. — Eoada and Bridges. — Caravans.
— Sources of Riyers. — Butter Pate makes a good Operation with
the Finger Nails of a Lama. — Trade for a Thibet ShawL —
Benefit of Clergy. — A Lie not wrong in a Priest. — How to get
out of the Cayem of Green Lizards. — Resembhuice of the Boman
Catholic Religion to Lamaism. A Discussion on Creeds. — The
Tal6-Lama is Earth, Air, Sea, and Sky. — Butter Fate no Hypo-
crite. — ^Arrival at Giga-Goungjar.

Thibet, situated on the southern border of the great
plateau of Central Asia — as I have said — ^is regarded as
a remote, strange, unapproachable country, whose name
always excites wonder and curiosity. Peelings of this
kind had a great deal of influence in persuading me to
go there. It is true I had some idea that I might turn
the journey to account in the way of trade, especially

PEOPLE OP THIBET. 155

as my friend Butter Pate was familiar with the country,
and being a lama, or priest, was a man of sagacity and
power, and promised to promote my views.

When, therefore, I had crossed the terrible ranges of
the Himalaya mountains, which shut the country out
from the warm and fertile regions of the south of Asia,
I experienced strong emotions of excitement. I must
confess, however, that the aspect of the country greatly
disappointed me. It seemed to consist of rocky hills
and ledges covered with stimted forests, with dreary
plains between. The climate I found to be exceedingly
cold, though it was only the beginning of September.
The thick woollen garments we had bought at Tassi-
sudon were insufficient for comfort, so that I supplied
myself with a large goat-skin cloak, which I bought
of one of the shepherds.

I foimd the people of Thibet to be what we call
Tartars ; they resemble our American Indians, especially
those who have partially adopted the ways of civilized
life. In dress, I noticed a sort of Chinese fashion, par-
ticularly in the trousers ; though many of the people in
the country wear sheep and goat skins, almost without
being shaped to the figure.

Though Thibet seems poor and meagre in its vege-
table production, it abounds in animal life. The country
is teeming with game, and the domestic animals are
very numerous and valuable. The flocks of sheep and
goats are the great resource of the coimtry. There is
a peculiar variety of sheep — very small, with black legs
and black faces ; but the wool is exceedingly fine, and
the mutton is the best I ever tasted.

The Thibet goat is certainly the most beautiful spe-
cies of the numerous goat family. They are of various
colours, black, fawn, and white, tha bittet Xsecs^^sisiJ^w

156 inrsE pieb — tood, houses.

with blue. They have straight horns and very short
legs. Their long silky hair is used for the shawls so
famous all over the world.

There is a small breed of cattle like ours, used for
agricultural labour ; but the Yaik, which I have already
mentioned, is the most valuable species of ox to the
Thibetans. The cows furnish an abundant supply of
milk, and both males and females are excellent beasts
of burthen. Their long silky tails are sent to Kin-
dostan, where they are in great request as chowries^ to
brush o£P flies with.

Most of the animals, as dogs, wolves, hares, &c., have
u thick, furry coat, to protect them against the rigour
of the climate. The most curious wild animal is the
mush deer, which is about the size of a common hog,
and its body has the shape of that animal. Its head is
small, and its legs extremely delicate. It lacks the
usual finish of quadruped beauty — a tail ! The creature
is covered with thick bushy hair, in some parts three
inches long. The perfume, which we call mushy is
obtained from a dst or bag which grows upon the
belly of the male animal. These creatures belong
to the government, and this only is permitted to
take the unguent, which is a source of considerable
revenue.

The food of the people of Thibet consists largely of
flesh, either of game or sheep, goats, and cattle. Milk
is extensively used. The chief crops are barley, wheat,
and a coarse kind of pease. Turnips and radishes are
almost the only garden vegetables. Fruits are scarce.
Bice is not cultivafced, but is brought from India. The
poorer classes never eat wheat bread.

The fixed houses of the coimtry people gpenerally
resemble tock-ldliis, being low, mean mounds of rough

BOADS Ain> BBID0E8-— OABATAKS. 157

stones, heaped upon each other without cement. These
are generally grouped m villages. Many of the people
are migratory, and live in tents, which at a distance
look as hlack as soot. Bedsteads are unknown in
Thibet : a thick mattress serves for a seat by day and
a bed by night. The scarcity of timber subjects the
people to many privations. In their dress, yellow and
red colours prevail. Their meals are at no stated times,
but are taken as hunger requires. The business of the
day begins by prayer, and ends at night by music,
dancing, and other amusements.

As we travelled along toward Lassa, the capital, we
found the roads and bridges to be miserable. In "Boo-
tan, goods are generally carried on the shoulders of the
people, especially the females; here they are trans-
ported on yaiks, mules, asses, and horses, the latter
being brought from Turkestan, where they run wild in
herds. Even sheep are used here for carrying small
burdens.

We met several caravans of traders going from Lassa
to India, with various kinds of Chinese merchandize,
which it appears is obtamed at the town of Sin-ning,
near the northern frontier. Both horses and camels are
used in these journeys. This traffic is in the hands of
the government, and the great officers of state. Sugar,
tobacco, indigo, pepper, rice, gums, silk, &c., are received
from India, Nepaul, and Bootan.

Thibet is a very elevated country, and here many of
the great rivers of Asia have their source. Among
them are the Indus, the Ganges, the Irrawadi, and the
Burrampooter. This latter, which we had crossed in
Bootan, we now crossed again, it being here reduced to
a few rods in width. Along the banks there were some
marks of fertility, but the country ^<&\i<^T%2X:^ ^^&5ss:^^

158 BENEVIT 07 CLEBaX.

and the vegetation withered, as it is in New England
in the frosty days of November.

Our course now lay in a north-easterly direction,
being our intention to visit the city of Giga-Goungjar,
before proceeding to Lassa. We met with a few small
villages in our way, but no considerable towns. Every-
where we were kindly received by the people, and, in con-
sideration of the clerical character of my companion, we
were ofben gratuitously entertained. Butter Pate also
did a good business in selling charms, disposing of no
less than sixteen little finger-nails of the Lama of
Teshoo-Lomboo in one village of about fifty people.
He exchanged with a poor woman a bit of clay as big
as a pea — which he declared had been consecrated by
the Grand Lama — for a Thibet shawl which it had cost
her four months to spin and weave !

I took the priest to task for all this, telling him that
it seemed to me no better than robbery.

'* Pooh, pooh," said he, '* such things are done by all
lamas.'*

'* Then I should say that they are all rascals.'*

*^ Not at all ; you are constantly confounding us
lamas with the common people, ^ligion and morality
are two different things. We lamas are not bound by
morality. We are consecrated ; and whatever we do is
right, provided it be done for the benefit of the
church.*'

" What do you mean by the benefit of the church ?"
said I.

"The church," said he, " consists of the great body
of lamas or priests throughout the world. Buddha is
God, and these represent him. To do good to the
church is to do good to the priests, and of course to

A LIB HOT WBOKG DT A PBIEST. 159

I replied that I understood what he meant, and he.
went on.

" Common people," said he, " are forbidden to lie,
steal, rob, &c., nor is a lama to do these things if he
can as well get along without. But Buddha is above
all. He made the laws of the universe, and he can
break them if he will. In consecrating his priests,
Buddha gives his own power to them, and if they see
good reason for it, they can also set aside his laws."

" That is, if they find it convenient to lie or steal,
they are at liberty to do so ?"

"You speak irreverently, my son. A lama never
lies, and never steals. These words are only used in
application to the common people. If I, a lama, say
what is not true, for the good of the church, it is a
holy act, and not a lie ; but if you or any other un-
sanctilied person were to do the same, the punishment
would be to wander forty thousand centuries in the
Gulf of Green Lizards."

" Is there no way by which I could avoid such a
terrible doom ?"

^'None; imless you could get the prayers of some
pious lama for that object."

" And how could I obtain such prayers ?"

" By giving gold, or silver, or jewels, or some other
precious things, to the lama, for the use and benefit of
the church."

" Yes, yes ; I think I begin to understand your reli-
gion. What a great privilege it is to be a lama, for he
may do what he pleases here on earth, and be sure of
heaven afterwards. Our Christian religion is very
diflferent."

" On the contrary, some priests of your religion came
to Lassa a few years ago, from a country called ItaL;^

160 BOlCAir 0ATH0LICI81C AND LAHAIBM.

and they told us that their religion, which they called
the Eoman Catholic, was almost exactly like ours.
They said they had a Grand Lama at their head, who
was God*s vicegerent on earth : that he could forgive
sins, or send people to the Gulf of Green Lizards, at
his pleasure. He told us that the ceremonies of their
church consisted of bell-ringings, processions, kneelings,
prostrations, turning rosaries, &c., almost exactly like
ours." •

I replied to my friend, that the Roman Catholics had,
indeed, such a ritual as he described, but that the great
body of Christians in my country, instead of taking their
religion from the Pope, took it from the Bible. I
represented to him, that these held that all mankind
were alike bound by the laws of religion and morality.
Butter Pate replied with vivacity :

'^ You talk like a child ; you insist on placing the mass
of mankind on a level with the priesthood. This is a
sacrilegious error. The Tal6-Lama is the perpetual,
undying Buddha on earth. He is all in all. He is
heaven and earth, sea, and sky, and air. In him, how-
ever, the lamas live and breathe and have a being. He
is a tree and they are its leaves. The leaves may fall,
but only to be reproduced again in the fruit. The fruit
falls, but this yields the seed. So it is with the lama.
He is a leaf — a fruit — ^a seed, of the Eternal, always
advancing to perfection. But the mass of the people
are as sand and gravel, and have no other use than to

* M. Hue, the Catholic Missionary to Thibet, in the history of
his trayels in that country, nses the following language: — '*We
have already mentioned the many and striking analogies between
the Lamanesque worship and the Catholic rites. Rome and Lassa,
the Pope and the Tal6-Lama, might famish other analogies." The
reseraManee between the rites and ceremonies of the two worships
haa been remarked by many other authors, and is indeed univ^-
Mify admitted and understood.

BTJTTEB PATE NO HTPOOBITB. 161

feed the roots of the tree of Life — ^the thrice holy Tal6-
Lama, and his branches."

"A comfortable doctrine this for the priests, cer^
tainly, but how do the people like it ?"

" They have only to submit to it."

" WeU, well, my friend Butter Pate, now be honest,
and tell me the truth. Do you believe this religion of
yours ?"

" Do you take me for a hypocrite ?"

" Well, to be fair with you, I do."

" You are mistaken. Men seldom believe against the
influence of education, and, above all, against their in-
terest. I was educated in lamaism ; all my family and
friends are devoted to it. And besides, if I reject this
religion, I sink to the level of ordinary men. As a
priest, I enjoy great favours and privileges. I exercise
dominion over the concerns of the mass. Through their
fears I can extort their money and their goods. I can
compel them to serve me in any way I please. I am
not bound by the same rules of duty and morality which
restrain the vulgar herd. Do you think I will doubt a
system which endows me with such advantages ? Before
you leave Thibet you will understand what I mean.
You will see that all the wealth and power of the
country are in the hands of the priests. The mass of
the nation are poor, ignorant, and degraded; do you
think I will sink myself to their level ?"

" It is doubtless too much to expect."

Here our conversation was brought to an end by the
appearance of the city of Giga-Goungjar at no great dis-
tance, situated in a valley before us. The country around
had, indeed, by its better cultivation, announced our
approach to a considerable town. Still proceeding on
our course, we soon entered thetowci,2ciA, ^&\\&\yai^^Hia>0«-

162 ▲ DBOLL OEBEHONY.

up our abode at a lamassarj, or monastery. It consists
of a collection of rather small white houses, around a
lofty Buddhist temple. As we approached the place,
our two horses, though worn down to the skin, were
terribly frightened at a very droll ceremony, then going
on. About fifty priests were performing a pilgrimage
around the temple, constantly prostrating themselves at
full length, as. if they were measuring the ground with
their bodies. They looked like so many snapping bugsi
getting up and getting down — only that they were very
sober and sad about it. My companion was now almost
at home, and he found many of his old acquaintances,
as well among the lamas as the people of the town. I
observed that he was everywhere well received, and
appeared to be a imiversal favourite. He was in fact a
kind-hearted man, and much better, I have no doubt,
than his religious creed would lead us to expect.
Nevertheless, a false religion is very dangerous to the
higher gifts of humanity, because a man's principles are
formed by his religion, and it is very rare that actions
rise higher than the sources from which they flow.

CHAPTER XXII.

We leave Giga-Gonngjar. — ^Lake Palte. — Descent of the Thibetans
from Apes. — The Perfection of Aristocracy. — How the Priests
manage to govern the People. — The Thibetan Hell. — The Per-
fection of Government. — Legend of Lake Palte. — How Falsehood
is made Truth. — The Upper and Lower Classes. — The American
System. — Thibet compared with our Conntry. — First Sight of
lASsa and the Great Temple of Pootala.

We remained a short time only at the city of Giga-

€h)ungjar, for we were both anxious to get to Lassa.

We took our departure on our two ponies, and advanced

at the rate of about twenty miles a-day. The roads

DESCENT or THE THIBETAKS EUOM APES. 163

were bad, and we were obliged to ford nearly all the rivers,
for the want of bridges. The country through which
we travelled presented a number of villages, though, in
some cases, half the dwellings were mere tents of coarse
cloth.

On the second day we came to the famous Lake
Palte, which is about thirty miles in diameter. It con-
sists of a ring of water, with an island in the centre,
about four miles across. There is a celebrated Thibetan
temple on this island ; my friend Butter Pate had a
desire to go there, but after some deliberation he gave
up the idea, and we proceeded on our course. He
described the lake and the island, which he had ofben
visited, as exceedingly beautiful. The latter is consi-
dered a place almost sacred on account of a prevailing
legend, half civil and half religious, which my com-
panion related to me, as follows : —

"You must know that while other nations came
from various inferior sources — some from weeds, some
from fish, some from rats, and some from ants, the Thi-
betans claim descent from a more honourable source —
viz., from the apes. These creatures, as any one can
see, are much superior to all other brutes, having hands,
and sometimes walking erect like men. It required
only a single step in advance, and man was created.

" Now you must also know, that in ages gone by —
about 460,000 of years ago — ^the whole earth was
peopled only by races of vermin, fishes, insects, birds,
and quadrupeds. The monkeys were the master race,
and of these the apes were the most civilized and
enlightened. Everywhere they were the ruling people.
The kings and queens and nobles of the earth were all
apes ; their subjects were only monkeys.

" But Thibet was more happy thasi^Ti^ Q»\»Vv<et ^^xosSs^

m2

164 THE PEEFECTION OF AEISTOCEACT.

— for here there was a sublime race, exalted by nature
above all others. They were apes indeed, but they had
no tails — a sufficient evidence of their superiority to all
other tribes. Then arose the fathers and founders of
our religion and our government. Such a mark of the
favour of Heaven toward our country, from the begin-
ning, is one for which the Thibetans can never be too
grateful. Happy are we to know that this preference
has been continued to the present day. The lineaments
of our sublime parentage, the primeval apes, are still
visible in the countenances of the priesthood, and,
indeed, of all the upper classes of Thibet ; and let me
say, in passing, that what thus marks us as the
favourites of Heaven in our very countenances, is carried
out and illustrated in our rehgious and civil state.
Here in Thibet is the city of Lassa — ^the holy of
holies — the centre of light — the dwelling-place of
Gadama ! Here in Thibet is the temple of Pootala ;
here is the Tale-Lama — God on earth — whose presence
is more effulgent that the sunrise, whose breath is more
balmy than the dew of evening, and whose soul is
more glorious than the sky of summer. Such is the
beginning, the head of our religion : and see the
benefits our system confers on society ! Our coimtry is
governed by two powers, the state and the church. In
them lie the intelligence, the virtue, the wisdom of the
whole community. These two powers engross all the
wealth of the land. They are the masters'; all the rest
are servants. Thus we have realized a perfection of
aristocracy more completely than any other country.
By a perfect union of the civil and ecclesiastical power,
we have attained the height of human government and
human civilization. The free, the gifted, the privi-
l^ed — thoae who began without tails — ^by the rights of

THE THIBETAN HELL. 165

nature, by the dispensations of Providence, by the pro-
found and holy dictates of Buddhism — ^these few govern
the many."

" And how do you manage it ?" said I.

" By keeping the masses poor and ignorant," was the
reply. " We, the priesthood, take education exclusively
into our own hands, and so we teach these imderlings
just what we have a mind to ; we do not allow them to
think for themselves ; we instruct them in obedience to
authority ; we train them to habits of devotion to
Buddhism ; we make them believe that the Grand
Lama and his priests have power over men here in life,
and afber death. We tell them that hell is a mighty
cavern, filled with horrors, such as scorching fires,
venomous serpents, horrid monsters, and agonizing
diseases, all of which are at our command. We bring
up the lower classes to live in a wholesome fear of us ;
because we make them believe that if they do not serve
us, — if they do not follow our instructions — we shall
subject their souls, afber death, to all the unspeakable
punishments of hell."

" And thus," said I, "you rule the people ! "

" That is not all," said my friend ; " besides the
terrors of eternity, we are obliged to adopt a sharp
system of police, to keep the multitude in order. Men
cannot be governed merely by fears of the future ; the
wholesome influence of present discipline and punish-
ment is necessary. There is no perfect government but
by the co-operation of the civil with the priestly power.
Authority has its beginning in religion ; it is the church
that lies at the bottom of all right and all policy in
government. But the church always finds it convenient
and necessary to bring to its aid the sword of civil
authority. Thus by severe punishments, by whi^x^ia^^

166 LEGEKD or LAKE FALTE.

by tortures, hj imprisonment, and by executions, in-
flicted by the police, added to the threats of future
misery, we have attained the perfection of government
to which I have alluded."

" I understand it all," said I ; " but you were going
to tell me the legend of the Island of Palte."

"Yes ; and I beg your pardon for this digression.
Well, in a very remote age, the borders of Lake Palte
were ""ettled by a numerous tribe of monkeys. The land
was fertQe, and the climate delightful, so that monkeys
were attracted from all the country round about, and
hence this region became crowded with inhabitants.

" Kow, up to this time, every monkey in the neigh-
bourhood had been bom with a tail ; to be without was
considered as much a deformity and a misfortune as it
is now among men to be without a nose. But at length
a rumour was circulated that on the island of Palte
there was a family of monkeys who were all tailless.
This created a great sensation, and indeed no small
degree of disgust ; for the very idea was shocking to the
ignorant and degraded people of the border.

" It must be understood that at this time the art of
navigation had not been invented, and consequently, to
cross the water of the lake, five miles in width, to the
island in the centre, was too great an imdertakmg to be
thought of. But, strange to say, one fair summer
morning, a long black thing like a log was seen to
leave the island, and gliding on the surface of the lake,
came steadily towards the shore. At last it struck
against the land — afber which two beings dressed in
furs came forth, and walked upon the land! The
monkeys all fled at first, but soon they came forward,
timidly, one by one, peeping and skulking about.
Afber a little time, however, the two strange beings

UEGEND OF LAKE FALTlfi. 167

were surrounded by thousands of the monkey inhabit-
ants of the shore. Some of the head men of the latter
approached the strangers, and the following dialogue
ensued :

" Head MonJcey, Who are you ? what do you come
here for ?

" Islander, We are your brethren ; but we have
been favoured by heaven with wonderful revelations
We have come to impart them to you.

^^ Head Monkey, And what are these wonderful
revelations ?

^^ Islander, We bring you the art of sailing upon
the waters; you see we have come in a canoe from
our home in yonder island.

" Head Monkey, And what else can you show us ?

^^ Islander, We can draw the Spirit of Life from
inanimate matter ; see here ! — and saying this, the
stranger rubbed two sticks together, and a flame leaped
forth and devoured the grass and leaves aroiuid. The
monkeys shrunk back in terror.

" Head Monkey, And what else can you do ?

^^ Islander, We can teach you to cut down trees,
and build houses, and other useful articles. Saying
this, the stranger cut down a tree with an axe which
he held in his hand, and began to build a house.

" Head Monkey, But if I judge rightly you have no
tails.

" Islander, It is true we have none, but — "

" The speaker was not permitted to go on, for imme-
diately there was a great agitation among the vast
crowd of monkeys. Some began to scream and hiss,
and some jumped up and down and foamed at the
mouth. Some ran to the trees and swung back and
forth by their tails, uttering hideous cries. Others

168 LEQEKD OP LAKE FALTE.

rushed upon tlie strangers with sticks and stones, and
the latter, to save their lives, took to their canoe, and
gliding over the water, reached their island in safety.

" But that was not the end. The rude monkeys,
who were mere imitators, set to work to find sharp
stones, so as to cut down trees : but they only cut
their fingers and legs off. They tried to make canoes,
by which hundreds of them got drowned. Then they
rubbed sticks together and produced fire, but one
Autumn night, during a high wind, the flame seized
upon the forest, and the wide settlement of monkeys
along the border of the lake, was consumed and exter-
minated.

" After many years, a new tribe arrived and peopled
the border of the lake. The islanders, came and
attempted to teach them, but they too were vain, con-
ceited, and arrogant, and were destroyed like their pre-
decessors.

" At last the islanders, who had become numerous,
settled along the shore. They were all apes without
tails, and these became the lamas — the founders of our
religion. After a time monkeys came and settled among
them, and thus our nation — ^the common people — was
begun. In after times, when apes and monkeys became
men, some of them went to the island of Palte, and
found the grave of the first pair of apes. Over this
spot they erected a temple, which is now one of the
most famous in Thibet.*'

" It is a very droll story, but of course it is a mere
fiction," said I.

" Not at all," said Butter Pate, " or if it be a fiction,
it is adopted by the priesthood, and therefore all the
common people are bound to believe it."

'' What is sanctioned by the Grand Lama and his

THE UFFSB AKD LOWEB CLASSES. 169

followers, I suppose, though at the outset it be a
whopper, becomes as good as gospel for the multi-
tude."

'^ Certainly, what we have sanctioned is henceforth
holy, at least for the vulgar, the common people."

" And has your legend of the apes of Lake Palte any
particular meaning ?"

'' Yes, and it is this : as the divine Buddha made a
distinction in the four-handed family, elevating a few
to the dignity of apes, while the great mass were left
in the condition of mere monkeys, so he has made a
distinction among men. The higher class comprise the
lamas, or priests, and the civil rulers. These are de-
signed always to have dominion over the lower and
more degraded mob. Hence you will see, wherever
Buddhism prevails, that the government and the priest-
hood, acting together, rule the masses, and make them
their servants and slaves. The good things of this
world were made for priests and magistrates, and for
those whom they favour: inferior things were made
for the rabble. Thus gold and jewels, and precious
stones, are all to be found in the palaces of princes, and
the temples of the priesthood : rulers and lamas have
splendid dwellings, and live on the iirst-fruits of the
field and the flock. The common people dwell in huts
of rude stone, or in tents ; their dress consists of rough
cloth or the untanned skins of wild beasts : their food
is only that which the upper class has rejected."

" And this you call the perfection of society ?"

" Certainly ; and do you not agree with me ?"

"It is very different from what prevails in my
country."

" No doubt, for you are heathen ; but tell me how it
is in your country ?"

I

170 THE AMEBICAlir SYSTEM.

" We regard all men as equal in the sight of God ;
and entitled to the same rights, and mider the same
laws."

" Do you consider a common man equal to a priest?"

" Certainly ; in the eye of the law, and in the sight
of God."

" Have you no privileged classes P"

" None."

" How, then, are the rabhle kept in order ?"

" We have no rabble."

" You must excuse me for doubting what seems so
absurd."

" I will explain. You start with a principle that
there is and must be an upper and a lower class. What
you thus avow as a principle, you do all in your power
to bring about in fact. You keep wealth and know-
ledge in the hands of the few ; your very doctrine is
that the many were made to be slaves of the few, and
in order to keep them in a state of degradation and
servitude — your laws, your religion, all your policy,
and all your proceedings, tend to keep from them the
free light of truth and knowledge. You enslave their
minds first, and their bodies afterwards. You begin
your work in childhood : you do not help the mind to
become strong, and to go forth in its vigour, to reap
the glorious harvest of life ; you teach the mind a rou-
tine of hollow ceremonies and false legends ; you train
it up to a servile and base worship of hideous images ;
you inculcate slavish obedience to the priesthood ; and
the child thus abused, and cheated, and blinded, grows
up a man, only to be your dupe and your tool.

" Our system is the reverse of all this. The funda-
mental principle of our religion, is that all have equal
rights, and this ia the corner-stone of our political in-

THIBET COMFABED WITH OTTB COXnTTBT. 171

stitutions. Being equal in rights, we seek equality in
education, instruction, and intelligence. We have
schools where all can be instructed. Each man is there
permitted to choose his profession ; to go forth and seek
happiness in his own way. Such is the operation of
this system that we have no rabble. All, or nearly aU^
can read and write. All, or nearly all, are acquainted
with GJeography, and History, so far as to be able to
form just opinions, and to choose and pursue a safe path
in life. Thus you will see, that while you govern by
authority, by fear, by tyranny, over the body and mind
— ^withering, degrading, and stultifying both — we give
instruction and liberty to all; and thus strengthen,
elevate, and bless society at large."

" This is sheer boasting."

" Let me prove that I am right. Look around you
here in Thibet ! What is the state of your country ?
Why, nine-tenths of the soil is a mere desert, and has
been so for ages. You have no great cities, and you
have few arts. Your roads are miserable, and your
bridges are contemptible. All but a few thousand of
your people Hve in wretched tents, or mere huts buUt
of rough stones. Half the people of Thibet are dressed
in the raw hides of beasts. The greater part of your
entire nation are but little above the brutes. You,
even you, a priest, are so degraded as to deem it an
honour to your nation and yourself to have descended
from apes, the most filthy and disgusting of beasts !
And how is it in my country ? Why, almost every
farmer has a house which would be here deemed a
palace. The children of our schools are taught more
than your Grand Lama and all his priesthood ever
knew. Your nation in Thibet has no importance. Your
people do not increase; knowled^^ \!kaa ^<2> ^^soi^^^'^is.^

172 THIBET COMPAEED WITH OTJE COUNTET.

science no development. You have not a newspaper or
an almanack in all Thibet. And this is what you call
the perfection of life! This is the state of things
begotten, and perpetuated, and perfected bj your system
of Buddhism — giving all power to the few — giving
control of men's minds and consciences to the priest-
hood."

" My friend Go-ahead, I really pity you. You are
stark mad. You have a high fever, and talk nothing
but nonsense!"

" Nay, I was never more sober."

"Then you are a most wicked and profane man.
What, decry the priesthood ! speak contemptuously of
the Tale-Lama ! This is sheer infidelity ; and, if you
are not discreet, you will be seized and proscribed as
a heretic. I counsel you to keep your mad and impious
notions to yourself till you are out of Thibet."

" I pray you not to be uneasy on my account, good
Butter Pate ; you have promised to show me to the
Grand Lama, and I know what belongs to good man-
ners and discretion well enough to keep out of mischief.
I have not come to Thibet to teach or preach religion.
This is not my vocation. I am, however, no more an
infidel than yourself. I reverence true religion, and I
respect its honest and faithful ministers. I believe
that religion — believed, preached, and wrought into the
hearts of men by a devoted ministry — is essential to
national peace and prosperity, as well as individual
happiness here and hereafter. But, it is a true, not a
false, religion that I believe thus essential. It is an
honest, not a trickish, priesthood that I mean. It is a
religion and a priesthood that unite to give the mind
of man light, liberty, and knowledge, as assistants and
helpers in his redemption, that alone commands my

riBST SIGHT 07 LASSA. 173

respect ; all others I deem false, and fatal to human
happiness. But, see, ^hat object is that which shines
so, far away to the east, in yonder plain P"

"That," said the priest, after gazing intently for a
minute, " that is the glorious temple of Pootala ; and
yonder, a little to the right, is Lassa!" Saying this,
he descended firom his pony, and prostrated himself on
his face, toward the holy city. He mumbled a number
of prayers, and performed various ceremonies with his
hands in the air, frequently touching his face and
breast. He then remounted, and we proceeded with
a quick pace. At the end of four hours, we began to
enter the city.

CHAPTER XXIII.

About Lassa. — Ecstasies of Butter Pate. — Description of Lassa. —
Situation. — Houses. — Temples. — Streets. — Buildings made of
Horns. — Trade of Lassa. — Approach to the Great Temple. —
Description of it. — Butter Pate exults. — View of the Country
around Lassa.— More about the Great Temple. — The Priests. —
Their Dress and Appearance. — Our Arriyal. — Celibacy. — A good
Meal and a Drink. — The Praying Machine. — The Praying
Barrel. — Other pious labour-saving Devices. — Butter Pate and his
Lama Friends. — The Thibetans. — Their Manners and Customs. —
How the Ladies daub their Persons with black Varnish. — Dress
of the People. — History of Thibet. — Ape Land. — History of the
Buddhist Religion. — Dominion of the Chinese. — Divisions of
the People into Classes. — Who and what the Tal^-Lama is. —
How he is elected. — How he behaves while a Baby or a Boy. — ^I
go over the Great Temple. — The Apartments, Libraries, &o. —
Description of the Lamassaries.

The city of Lassa, which we were now approaching,
being the seat of the Grand Lama, is the holy city of
the Buddhists. It is what Kome is to the Catholics,
and Mecca to the Mahometans. I was quite pre-
pared, therefore, as we descended into the plain on
which the city stands, to see my i!iica!iBxi^^<Kt^^^*\s^

174l ECSTASIES OE BUTTEB FATE.

a state of great excitement. He made motions with
his hands like turning a grindstone: he muttered
rapidly with his lips, and frequently got off his horse
and prostrated himself half a dozen times, going a little
way on his journey afber each prostration.

At length his religious ecstasies seemed to he passed,
and he then directed my attention to what he deemed
the splendid aspect of the scene. Compared with the
rest of Thihet, Lassa is really a handsome town. It
stands in a fertile valley, surrounded with mountains,
on a small river called Galdjao, which is a hranch of
the Sanpo. It has no defensive walls, hut is encircled
by aged trees, above which, as you approach, you see
the tall white houses, with their flat or bending roofs,
together with numerous temples covered with gilding.
In the distance, rising above all, is the palace of the
Tal6-Lama, giving to the w^hole view quite a majestic
appearance.

The principal streets are broad, well laid out, and
tolerably clean. The suburbs have numerous gardens,
hut they are disgustingly filthy. The houses are some
of brick, some of stone, and some of mud. All are
covered with white Hme-wash, giving them quite a neat
appearance. In one part of the city, the walls of the
houses are built of the horns of sheep and cattle.
These are arranged in a fanciful manner, so as to orna-
ment the surface ; sometimes the effect is quite pleasing.
The interior of the houses, almost without exception, is
very dirty.

Lassa is not only the seat of the Buddhist religion,

hut it has considerable trade in silk, goats' hair, woollen

cloths, velvets, linens, prints, silver, gold-dust, and

precious stones. There are extensive markets, where

the goods are exposed for sale on mats. Here are

BTJTTEB PATE El^LTS. 175

public officers, called inspectors, who fix the prices of
each article, and fi*om these there is no deviation. I
here saw merchants from Nepaul, Hindostan, Bootan,
Bokhara, and China. These, with their peculiar cos-
tumes, and diverse countenances, varying from jet black
to orange yellow, all combined to render the scene one
of the most curious and striking I have ever met.
Everything around told me that I was in a far-off and
strange country.

We passed directly through the city, which spreads
out to a considerable extent, and proceeded at once
along one of the two great avenues which connect the
town with the temple-palace of the Tale-Lama. This
lies to the north of Lassa, and, as we proceeded, I caught
another and still more imposing view of this famous
edifice ; as celebrated among the Buddhists as is the
church of St. Peter's at Rome among the Catholics.
It consists of a central structure of great elevation,
surroimded by many smaller edifices, built on to it, so
as to appear like one building. As the sun was setting,
the golden canopies and turrets of various forms and
sizes presented a general blaze of splendour. Butter
Pate evidently enjoyed my surprise and admiration.

" What do you think of the descendants of the apes,
now ?" said he, triumphantly.

"I am very hungry, my friend," said I. "After
dinner I can give a better opinion."

" Well," said the priest, " our journey is near its end.
We have but two miles to go — for the temple of Poo-
tala is my house, and it shall be yours. But look
around — is not this a glorious scene ?"

The hill on which we were at the moment, gave us a
commanding view of the valley in which Lassa is
situated, and I must confess the view is one of the

176 THE GKEAT TEMPLE — THE PEIESTS.

fairest in the world. This plain is some fifty miles in
diameter, and is watered by various streams, and en-
circled by mountains, the tops of one group rising to
tne clouds, and covered with everlasting snow. It was
now late in the autumn, but grapes in abundance swung
from the vines, pears and plums were in the gardens
and orchards, and numerous fields, spreading down the
hill-sides to the plains, showed the deep yellow tint of
wheat and barley stubble grounds, &om which the
recent harvest had been reaped.

When we had come within about half a mile of the
Grand Temple of Pootala, I began to be more and
more aware of its enormous elevation and its vast ex-
tent. The central edifice rose, from a broad base of
other edifices, in four distinct stories, and appeared
to me to be at least three hundred feet in height.
Around it were numerous temples and lamassaries,
which, though inferior to the great temple, contributed
to heighten the imposing effect of the principal struc-
ture.

As I approached the place, I perceived that every-
thing around the great temple bespoke its religious
character. The people all seemed to be lamas or monks.
These were dressed in a long robe with a hood attached,
like those of the capuchins of Europe. While near the
temple, they walked in a slow and solemn manner, and
with a meditative air. When they got a little distance
from the plain, they smiled, and seemed relieved. The
greater part of them had a well-fed, coarse, jolly look.
Their black Tartar eyes stood out with fatness, and
a deep cherry colour glowed in the cheeks, even through
the swarthy skin that covered them. Nearly all had a
dirty appearance, and I judged, as I passed close to one
of them, that a sweet breath and a dean person were

A GOOD HEAL AND A DBHfK. 177

not deemed essential parts of the Buddhist faith or
practice. There were others, however, connected with
the court, who were richly dressed, and had a more
refined appearance.

Following my companion now amid the throng of
people, and the wilderness of turnings among the huild-
ings, I came at last to a small court, which we entered
by a low archway. Here we were met by a servant
who took a flag that hung at the door, and shook it
over us as a charm. We then entered, and winding
through staircases, and entries, and corridors, till I was
as giddy as a windmill, we came at last to a cell, into
which we were admitted by a priest. He soon reco-
gnised Butter Pate, and, after mutually shaking a flag
over each other's heads, they began to talk in a very
free and friendly style. Two servant-priests were now
required to bring us food, and we soon sat down on the
floor to our meal.

The Buddhist church denies marriage to the priests,
and the higher clergy pretend to live on vegetables and
a low diet. But in Thibet animal food is abundant,
and vegetables comparatively scarce, so that meats are
allowed to the people as well as the priests. We had,
on the present occasion, roast kid and a horse-steak,
with a vile tea-porridge made of native tea-leaves mixed
with flour, butter, salt, and some detestable drug. I
had often seen this dish before, and could never abide it.
The horse-beef, so relished by the Tartars, I avoided
with loathing. I therefore stuck to the kid chop, and
such was my appetite that our host was obliged to
replenish his dish three times. Water was brought
for drink, and then sour mares' milk ; but, as I did not
seem entirely satisfied. Butter Pate asked our landlord
if he had no wine. The latter uimiedi"a.\»^'^ Y^^^<;ife^^

178 PIOUS LA30im-SAVING DEVICES.

large skin sack, and poured out about a pint of the
contents for each. A painted wheel was then given to
lis, and each having whirled it round on its axis three
hundred and thirty-three times — ^which was considered
equal to saying three hundred and thirty-three prayers —
we gazing all the time at the wheel, we were ccm-
sidered to have obtained the necessary indulgence, and
so we quaifed the liquor, sour as it was, in a very merry
and hearty fashion.

While I am talking of machine-prayers, I may ai
well say that in Thibet a man is deemed pious im
proportion to the. number of his petitions and pro*
strations. Sometimes himdreds of lamas may be seen,
following each other in exact single file, around a
temple, falling flat on their faces at every step. This is
hard work, especially for a fat priest ; so sometimes, in
lieu of this, they carry a load of prayer books around
the temple, and are deemed to have repeated all con*
tainedinthem, and therefore to have got so much credit
or indulgence in heaven. Another pious labour-saving
machine is that of the praying barrel. This consists of
an instrument in the shape of a barrel, set up endwise on
an axle, and which, being put in motion by the hand,
turns roimd and round for a long time. The body of
the machine consists of a multitude of pieces of paper
pasted together, and printed over with the most
popular and approved prayers. Every revolution of the
barrel goes for the benefit of the man who turns it, includ-
ing all the thousands of petitions printed in the machine.
Thus a man may say a hundred thousand prayers in five
minutes. What a stock of bliss may he not have laid up
in heaven, if he will work at the barrel for a whole day,
as many of these poor people do ! It is amazing to see
how devoted and zealous some of them are. I once saw

BTJTTEB FATB XSD HIS LAMA TBIEKDS. 179

two lamas get into a regular fight for the use of a pray-
ing barrel, and it was only pacified by another lama
who came along and agreed to turn it for them on joint
accoimt.

But I must return to my narrative. I liked my
first introduction to the great temple very well. I
had no difficulty in discovering that Butter Pate was,
in point of fact, a pretty fair type of the priests in
general. He was a good tempered, easy man, cunning
by habit, cheating by privilege, and making dupes of
the rest of the world, as if they were only made for
his benefit. He believed about five per cent, of his
religion — ^the rest was trick, artifice, and pretence, used
to gull the people, and make them his servants and
tools. There was, however, nothing malignant in his
temper. The masses were so ignorant, so enslaved by
habit, as to submit to their degradation and servitude
without doubt or question. Gratified in his voluptuous
wants and wishes, the world rolled on easily and cheerily
with the Reverend Father Butter Pate, as it did, in-
deed, with the whole brotherhood at Pootala. Some-
times their prostrations, prayers, and pilgrimages are
rather laborious, but most of them find some mode of
avoiding or abridging them. While about the temple,
they affect great gravity ; but at a distance, or in their
own cells, they are cheerful enough.

I have not time or space to give a detailed account
of all that I saw and experienced at this wonderful
place. I must, therefore, hurry on with my account.

The Thibetans I found to be of the middle height,
and combming much suppleness with agility of form.
They have small black eyes, high cheek bones, pug
noses, a thin beard, and a tawny skin. Some of them,
however, among the upper classes, have fair <!a\s2w<^

k2

j 180 HOW THE LADIES DAUB THEIIl PEESONS.

'S

plexions. They are fond of gymnastic exercises, and,
as they walk about, are always humming a tune. They
are of a generous disposition, brave in war, fond of
display, and rather indifferent to filth.

The men do not shave the head, like the Chinese,
but let the hair flow down on the shoulders. Some of
the dandies braid it, and decorate the braids with
jewellery. The ordinary head-dress is a blue cap, with a
red tuft and a black velvet border. On high occasions,
this is exchanged for a big red hat, tapering to the top,
the rim decorated with long thick fringe. A full robe
girded round the waist, with a red sash, and red or
purple cloth vest, completes the costume of the men.
The dress of the women is similar, though they wear
over the robe a short many-coloured tunic. They
also dress the hair in two braids which fall forward
over the shoulders. The common women wear a
yellow bonnet like a liberty cap : the ladies have
\\ graceful head-dresses like crowns.

Religion and law require the women, when they go
abroad, to daub themselves all over with a dirty black
varnish, this being supposed necessary to prevent im-
morality. In most of the towns the rule is observed ;
and the pious, even in Lassa, conform to it ; but there
are a good many who show their pretty faces in all
their native charms. They are hardly respectable,
however, and take good care to keep clear of the
police.

While such is the general attire of the Thibetans,
there are still to be seen in the streets of Lassa a good
many Chinese mandarins, officers, and soldiers, dressed
in the Chinese fashion. Some of the people, who affect
to cultivate good society, imitate the costumes of
Pekin. There are also so many strangers here that

HISTOET OF THE BUDDHIST EELIGION. 181

the dresses of Turkey, Hindostan, Persia, and Siberia,
are frequently to be seen in the streets.

It is well known that Thibet is now a mere province
of China, it being called in the language of that
country, Si-Tsang. Little Thibet and Ladak are in-
cluded with it in the China maps, but are not regarded
as a part of it by Europeans.

In remote ages Thibet was an independent country,
inhabited by a race called Sanmiao. They were a rude
people, living on their flocks, and cultivating a little of
the land. The Chinese called their country, Kea/ng or
Land of Demons, The Thibetans themselves, however,
believed that their Adam and Eve were two handsome
apes, and hence denominated their country the Ape
Land, Even now the people boast of their monkey
lineage, as I have stated.

After thousands of years of war with the Chinese, the
Thibetans became subject to the latter about the 12th
century. The Buddhist religion was originated in
Northern Hindostan by SaMa, often called Gadama^
about the year 1000 B.C. He wrote certain religious
books, which are the basis of Buddhism to this day. In
subsequent ages, his doctrines were spread by mission-
aries over all the surrounding countries. It took root
in Thibet, as well as elsewhere. When the famous
Zinghis Khan conquered a great part of the Asiatic
world, he sent an ambassador to the head priest or
Lama, in Thibet, and made a sort of treaty with him.
Prom this beginning, the Grand Lama of Thibet gra-
dually grew in spiritual authority, and this being
favoured by the Chinese government, which urged him
to establish its authority over Thibet, Tartary, and
China itself, the people of whom had become imbued
yn\h. Buddhism, he was raised at last, in the au^ersti-

182 DOMnaoir of the ches^ese.

tious minds of the people, to be God himself, or at
least to be God's agent, with full power on earth.

The Chinese took the civil government of Thibet
into their own hands, and they always keep soldiers in
Lassa and other principal towns. But they leave the
whole business of religion to the Grand Lama and his
priests. Every district has its bishop, and every bishop
his inferior clergy. As the people implicitly believe
their religion, and that what the priests tell them is
true and right, they submit in all things to their will.
They, the priesthood, have had no diflBculty in keeping
the whole wealth of the country in their hands. The
temples are exceedingly numerous, and are, in fact, the
palaces of the priests, who live very luxurious lives, fat-
tening and flourishing on the servile labour of their
dupes.

The people of Thibet are, therefore, divided into two
classes ; the upper class, or nobility, are the clergy — the
lower class, or vulgar, are the laity. Marriage is consi-
dered a degrading and low business, for the priests do
not practise it : it is, therefore, left to the lower class.
Such is the state of a country where cunning and selfish
priests have imbounded sway, and where the people
submit without doubt or question to their instructions
and guidance !

The lamas or monks are of various degrees of rank
and authority, as in the CathoHc Church. The Tal6-
Lama of Lassa is the supreme head, but at Teshoo
Lomboo, eighty miles to the north, there is another
lama of very high rank, and second only to the supreme
pontiff of Pootala. There are, also, several other dig-
nified lamas — called Kootoohtoos — in different parts of
the Chinese empire.

Accoidmg to the priests, the Tal^Lama is Buddha,

HOW THB TALfi-LAMA. IS ISLEOTED. 183

or God: he created all things: everything proceeds
from him, as light from the sun ; the earth, the heavenly
bodies, mankind, are emanations from him, and all will
return to him, and be absorbed by him, as drops of rain
are swallowed up in the ocean.

When the Tal6-Lama dies, another person is selected
to fill his place. The idea is, however, that the man
thus chosen, is only an envelope for Buddha, who, when
his envelope has got old, or sick, and dies, passes into
the other, which is provided for him.

The choice of the new Lama is made as follows :
prayers are offered up in all lamassaries : the inhabitants
of Lassa, especially, pray zealously, and make pil-
grimages around the Buddha-la, or great temple. By
certain indications, particular children are thought to
be Chaherans, that is, candidates for the holy office.
The three most promising ones are taken to Lassa, and
then the Kootooktoos, having assembled from all parts,
go to the Buddha-la, and spend six days in fasting and
prayer. On the seventh, they take three fish, made of
gold, and inscribed with the names of the three candi*
dates ; these they put into a golden urn, shake them up,
and the oldest lama draws one out. The infant whose
name is on this fish, is considered as designated for this
sublime office. He is then immediately conducted, in
great pomp, to the spot called the City of Spirits, and
proclaimed as the Tale-Lama. As the people pass by,
they prostrate themselves, and then he is conducted to
his sanctuary.

I made some inquiry, and found that generally
speaking, the new divinity finds his situation any-
thing but pleasant. It is a long time before he can
cease to be a baby, and behave like a God. He pre-
fers rather to play with other children, eat pap, and

184 I GO OVEE THE GEEAT TEMPLE.

be tossed up and down on his nurse's knee, than to sit
on a platform with his legs curled up under him, and
receive the worship of pilgrims, even if they come a
thousand miles, and offer presents of gold, silver, and
precious stones. When he gets a little older, he often
insists upon quitting his holy throne, and spinning his
peg-top. It is not till he is really a man, that he can
be made to feel the dignity of his position, and enter
into the full spirit of his mission. The truth, no
doubt, is, that this election of the Lama is all a
juggle of the priests, who are the tools of the Chinese
government, and select the child of some family who
is devoted to the imperial dynasty. The people, and
some of the priests, through education and long habit,
may be duped by these shallow artifices, but there can
be no doubt that the prime movers know it all to be
a deception, a trick to gain power over the people.

When I had been a few days at Pootala, and had
recovered from the fatigue of my journey, I went with
my friend Butter Pate over the great Palace Temple.
Its proper title is Buddha-la, or the place where God
is. The term Pootala, given to the whole village, is
but a corruption of this name. The edifice is of great
extent, and has 5000 apartments, occupied by lamas of
various degrees. The number of them who reside
here, together with those who are continually coming
from all parts of India, China, Tartary, and even
more remote countries, either for study in the various
theological schools, or on pilgrimages, is enormous. I
should think fifteen thousand persons were always in
the great Temple and the four celebrated monasteries
or seminaries in the immediate vicinity.

Many of the apartments in the great palace are ex-
ceedingly gorgeous, and several of the pinnacles on the

LIBBABIES — LAMASSABIES. 185

roof are sheeted either with gold or silver. There are
numerous libraries, the Thibetans having a literature in
which writing is like the Hebrew, from right to left.
Their books are all devoted to religion and the abstract
philosophy connected with it. The leading doctrine is
that of transmigration of souls, which means that the
people believe they have lived as insects, birds, quad-
rupeds, or other creatures, in a former state. The
great effort of religion is not to live pure lives, but to
sink all existence in meditation. To be absorbed into
Buddha or God, as a drop of water is lost in the ocean,
seems to be the highest object of the devout. The
priests occupy the common people with charms, miracles,
and pompous processions, but teach them no morality.
As to the priests themselves, some are studious, devout,
and sincere, but in such cases, their devotion only leads
them into mystic labyrinths of speculation, or idle
prayers, prostrations, and pilgrimages, or, perhaps, the
silent and barren seclusion of the cloister. Wherever
there is a Buddhist temple, as well in Thibet as in
other countries where this religion prevails, there is a
group of buHdings around, devoted to the lamas or
priests, called a lamaasary. This is a sort of monastery,
or ecclesiastical tavern, and is chiefly inhabited by
lamas who remain there permanently. These institu-
tions are also the stopping-places for itinerant or tra-
velling ecclesiastics.

Beside the stationary lamas, there are a great many
who are constantly wandering from place to place. They
visit various countries, stretching over a space of fifteen
hundred miles. They visit all the great Kootooktoos,
or Superior Lamas, throughout the Chinese empire,
India, and Tartary. There seems in these wide regions
to be no stream they have not ctosaed, xvq xasi^xjcc^^iKss.

186 HOBS ABOUT LA88A.

they have not climbed. They have no duties to per-
form ; no end to accomplish. They wander on, as if
by a kind of instinct or necessity ; the real secret being
that they are idle, lazy, and fond of change ; and as
they live free of cost at the lamassaries, or subsist easily
by selling charms^ they are able to gratify their tastes.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Kore abont Laoa. — The Courtship of the Monkey and Demon, the
Thibetan Adam and Eye.— Division of Sects. — Doctrines of
Bnddbism. — Visit to the Ghrand Lama. — The Apartment. — Per-
sonal Appearance of the Grand Lama. — ^Bfake him an Offering. —
His strange Behaviour. — ^I am ont of Humour. — The Priests get
Tipsy. — I am as bad as any of them. — A Bow. — Accused of
Sorcery. — I am pursued. — I escape. — ^Butter Pate takes me to
the top of a Mountain. — ^A Bargain and a GK>od-bye. — ^I quit
Thibet.

The longer I remained in Thibet, the more deeply did
I become interested in the people and their strange
institutions. The very obscurity of their religious
notions excited me to a thorough examination of them.

I found Lassa to be a more populous towu than I
at first supposed ; it possesses numerous arts aud insti-
tutions indicative of a considerable degree of civiliza-
tion. There are in the city a printing-office, a hospital
for the small-pox, and a great number of monasteries
or lamassaries. The latter are indeed numerous all over
the country. It is said there are no less than three
thousand in Thibet.

I have stated that the Thibetans claim to be de-
scended from monkeys, and are indeed proud of this
lineage. They are taught by the learned that at first
the country was peopled by animals and demons. After
a certain time, God sent to Thibet the King of the

COTJBTSHIP or THE THIBETAK ADAM AND EVE. 187

Monkeys, who led there the life of a hermit ; all his
time was taken up in religious devotions, his great d^
sire being to pray and think himself into nonentity,
which is the highest aim of the Buddhist faith. There
he would sit, on a stone in his cave, for twenty hours
together, snoozing away, and scarcely daring to wink,
lest he should wake from his stupor, and break the
tranquillity of his dream, which seemed to border upon
the hoped-for nothingness.

Just as he was on the point of being snuffed out like
a candle, there appeared before him a female maqua or
demon. What she was like the books do not tell us,
but I suspect she was a sort of spirit-rapper. . At any
rate, she woke up the king monkey, and made herself
look very lovely, and then proposed to marry him.

" Oh, but I can't do that !" said he.

"Why not?" cried she.

" Why, I never thought of such a thing !*'

" But you can think of it now."

" Nay ; all my time is taken up with my religious
duties !"

" Duties, indeed ! What good does it do anybody
for you to sit there all day and all night, and snooze
away existence as if you were a lump of dirt ?"

" Why, I hope soon to be absorbed !"

" What good will that do ?"

" I shall get rid of existence."

" Oh, bah ! it will be much better to live with me !"

Saying this, the beautiful demon smiled, and the
monkey smiled too ; and so they were imited, and be-
came the Adam and Eve of the Thibetan race.

Now this seems very absurd to us, but the Buddhists
believe that mankind have all existed in a previous
state, in the form of various animals. By this k^^u.^

188 TISTT TO THE OUAND LAMA.

they claim to have had a monkey, the most cumiing
of beasts, for their common parent; and hence the
story is readily believed by them, and at the same
time it is the foundation of a national pride, inasmuch
as it assigns to them so sagacious a progenitor.

The Buddhists are divided into several sects, but
they all hold to the doctrine of transmigration of souls,
and all conceive that the great end and aim of a reli-
gious life, is to get rid of individual existence, and to
be soaked up and become a part of the deity. They
6onceive that originally God existed in a state of per-
fect calm, and nothing existed but him. But after
millions of ages passed away, he exerted his will, and
the four elements, fire, air, earth, and water, were pro-
duced. In process of time, animals, and at last men,
were created. All this creation was only an afflux from
the deity, and finally all will be again absorbed by him,
and then he will relapse into his original state of bliss-
ful stupor and repose.

• When I had been about three weeks at Pootala, I
reminded Butter Pate of his promise to bring me into
the presence of the Grand Lama, and expressed a desire
to have this fulfilled. He replied that he was ready to
do as he said, but it was necessary for me to be pre-
pared to make the Sublime PontiflF a handsome present.
I asked my friend what I had better give him. He
replied that the richer the present, the richer would be
the blessing bestowed upon me. I inquired if five
dollars would do.

"Not for a man who has two hundred and fifty
dollars sewed up in his belt,'* was the reply.

" But the Sublime Lama don't know anything about
that."

^*He knows everything."

VISIT TO THE GHAIH} LAMA. 189

'' Indeed p I thought he spent all his time in a calm,
dozing indifference to this world and all its interests.'*

" Do not judge him hy yourself ; he is like a sponge
which sucks in water through a thousand pores ; he
drinks in knowledge from the air, and nothing escapes
him."

" Really, I did not know that ; I will present him
with ten dollars then."

" Twenty would be more suitable to your character
as a stranger, and the first representative of your
country that has appeared at Pootala."

" No, no ; that's too much, I will give ten ; if that
wont do, I'll go home without seeing his holiness at all."

" Well ; ten will do, but you know that you must
give the same sum to the superior lamas."

" Indeed ! is that the rule ?"

" Certainly."
. " And who are the superior lamas P"

" They are holy men who are approaching the state
of beatific absorption into the divine essence."

" Well, what do they want money for, if they are so
near being snuffed out P"

Butter Pate here gave me a cunning leer, as much
as to say, " It don't do to examine these matters too
closely. The best way is to pay your money, and ask
no questions."

I took the hint, and counted ten dollars into Butter
Pate's hand. " There," said I, " is one half for the
superior lamas, you being one of them : the other
ten doUars I shall present to his Sublime Excellency
himself."

" No, no," said he, "that wont do; you must give
it to one of his ministers."

" I had rather make sure of his getting it "b^ ^^^ i

190 THE APABTHEKT.

ting it into his own hands myself: when will you pre-
sent me ?"

** To-morrow there are a hundred and fifty pilgrims
from Ceylon, Java, Burmah, Anam, Cochin China^
Japan, Corea, and Kamschatka, to he presented, and
yon can go in with them."

To this I agreed. The next day, at twelve o'clock,
we all moimted to the great temple, hy an immense
nnmher of steps. The edifice itself is situated on a *
lofty hill, or mountain, and when I had reached the
upper stories, the view presented to us was in the
highest degree imposing. The town of Lassa, situated
in the midst of the valley, from this point seemed a
splendid city of lofty houses with numerous temples
in the suhurbs. On the brows of the mountains in
the distance, a great many lamassaries are visible, some
of them of grand appearance. The country itself was
marked with natural fertility and artificial wealth.
Several national roads could be traced for many leagues,
some of them leading to towns or villages of consider-
able size. The atmosphere was so clear that we could
distinguish remote objects, thus placing the prominent
featuies of the valley, as if on a map, before our eyes.

After attaining the fourth and last story of the edi-
fice, we entered into an immense hall, where I saw a
great number of lamas, in various dresses, some very
rich, and indicating their high rank about the court.
Here I expected to find the object of our visit ; but I
soon perceived this to be only an ante-room. On one
side there was a small low archway, and here two or
three of the company at a time were allowed to enter.
After two hours I was admitted into the apartment.
It was about twenty feet square, but so dark that at
Brat I could see nothing. Aftec straining my eyes I

I MAKE HIM AN OFFEBING. 191

began to see high up on a sort of shelf or platform, a dim
outline of a figure, squatting upon its haunches. Gazing
at it intently, I saw that it was a tall, lean, shrunken
man, dressed in a long robe or mantle, and wearing on
his head a high-pointed cap or hood. His skin had the
colour and texture of a seared leaf, and his expression
was that of a person stupified with some narcotic drug.
This was the Tal6-Lama !

I entered at the same time with two priests from
Ceylon. These brought rich offerings of cinnamon,
diamonds, and gold dust, and laid them at the feet of
the pontiff. They then prostrated themselves on the
floor, as if not daring to look up. His holiness did not
deign even to wink. They remained absorbed at his
feet for half an hour ; then, with downcast eyes they
retired. It was now my turn.

I must confess that there was something in the scene
that rather damped my spirits. It is true that I never
saw a more long-faced, sad, withered, tired, worn-out
looking personage than that now before me. The room
in which we sat was paltry, and all around had an
aspect of meanness. But the awe which he inspired,
and a recollection of the profound reverence in which
he was held by 200,000,000 of mankind, for a moment
imposed upon my imagination ; but it was but for a
moment.

Imitating, in some measure, the Oeylonese priests, I
approached the throne or shelf of his holiness, and
bowed low, I then looked up, and waited for his reve-
rence to speak : but he said nothing.

" How do you do, sir?" said I, in Chinese, which I
considered the court language.

There was no answer. " I hope your excellency is
well to-day," I added. There wob not «. '^ot^. T?w6k

192 HIS STEANOE BEHAVIOXJE.

great Lama did not move a lip nor an eye-lid. He was
as still and stiff as if he had been mesmerised. I laid
ten dollars at his feet. I perceived a dim twinkle in
one corner of his left eye, but it instantly vanished, and
I could get no more out of him. So, after a few mi-
nutes, I wished his worship good-day, and departed.
As I left the room I saw Butter Pate standing in the
shadow of the doorway, and perceived that he had wit^
ncssed my proceedings. He looked at me inquisitively,
as much as to say, " Well — is it not sublime !" I rolled
up my eyes, and went my way.

" So,'* I said to myself, when I was alone, " this is
the Grand Lama — the head of the Buddhist faith — the
living Gadama — God on earth! It is he in whos^
footpath the flowers spring up ; he whose breath is like
a divine odour, converting hundreds of deserts into
blooming and fruitful plains ; he who can bring living
waters from the barren rock ; he the paring of whose
toe-nails can save the body from pestilence and the soul
from perdition ! Such, at least, is the faith of millions
of deluded men." Oh ! how shocking to me appeared
this monstrous delusion, and how base and detestable
the priests and other cunning men who contribute to
keep up the imposition.

It was some days before I recovered my equanimity;
I was, indeed, disgusted with the whole system of
things, which, it was evident, was founded not only in
falsehood but in fraud. It appeared to me perfectly
evident that the lamas, or gylongs, or priests, are nearly
nil of them a set of hypocrites, who understand per-
fectly well that their whole religious system is a fiction,
and that the Grand Lama himself is a humbug. A
few of them, certainly, are sincere, but by far the
^greater part familiar with the cheats and juggles put

I AM OFT OE HUMOFE. 193

upon their deluded followerg, have a real contempt for
mankind, using their religion and its various arts only
as means of making tools of their fellow men.

I did not think it worth while to tell all my feelings
to Butter Pate ; he, however, easily guessed them. He
was, in fact, neither surprised nor ojffended that I de-
spised the profession to which he was devoted, and I
became satisfied that he had pretty much the same
opinion of it as myself.

I now began to think of quitting Thibet, for I saw
no advantage in staying here any longer. But what
course was I now to adopt ? Here I was, near the
middle of Asia, and take which way I would, it was a
long road : however, while I was deliberating upon this
subject, my plans were determined by a very unex-
pected event.

I must premise, that before I left Connecticut, I had
joined a Total Abstinence Society, and during all my
wanderings, I had stuck to my principles. It is owing
to this fact, that I had been able to pass through so
many trials and vicissitudes with a good constitution,
and without getting into any fatal difficulties. If my
wandering and unsettled turn of mind had led me
through a long series of adventures — and misadven-
tures — if, indeed, according to the proverb, I had been
a rolling stone and gathered no moss — still, I was
alive and well, and had yQt a chance of doing some-
thing in the world. I looked upon myself, in regard
to drink, as good as insured ; but, alas ! it turned out
that my strength was not so great as I imagined.

About four days after my visit to the Grand Lama,
I was invited by a little fat lama, about four feet high,
and as yellow as a carrot, to sup with him. I had
made his acquaintance througli Bvx^^x^^^^^s^^^-

O

194 THE PEIESTS GET TIPSY.

presented him as an excellent fellow, and I had cer-
tainly found him an amusing companion. I accepted
his invitation, and at the time appointed I went to his
cell. I found here no less than eleven lamas — five of
whom I knew to be regarded as holy men, for they sat
all day in dijfferent niches of the chief temple, seeming
to be lost in a divine stupor. The pilgrims, on their
way to the Grand Lama, were accustomed to make
them handsome presents, on account of the fame of
their sanctity. I had before found out that after dark,
when the temples were vacated, they were accustomed
to descend and stretch their legs, benumbed by being
coiled up under them all day, I had suspected, also,
that they took ample compensation for their privations
by good suppers, and now and then a glass of liquor.

We had a luxurious meal, according to Thibetan ideas,
among which horse-flesh was the chief luxury. There
was plenty of arrack, a kind of fiery whisky, made of
rice, and the lamas drank pretty freely ; though always
keeping the prayer barrels going as the liquor went
down. As crows keep one of their number to watch
while the rest feast, so these monks kept one of their
number turnuig at the praying machine while the rest
were drinking. They soon became merry, and most
of them began to sing and dance. The five holy men
were among the gayest of the party. Now, I must
confess that I had a sort of malicious pleasure in seeing
these sanctimonious hypocrites in this condition, and I
longed to get them tipsy. To encourage them, I drank
also, and was soon as bad as any of them. I got well
paid for it afterwards, as I confess I fiiUy deserved.
We kept it up till daylight, when it was time for the
£ve priests to go to their squatting-places. They were
very drunk, and reeled TaitTieT asA ^loi^et «& '^Vi'ay went

A EOW — ACCUSED OE SOECEET. 19(>

forth to their several chapels. They made a good deal
of noise, but it was very early in the morning, and there
chanced to be nobody in the way to notice their
strange conduct.

They all contrived to mount upon their platforms,
and by the time the pilgrims began to gather in for
their devotions, they seemed to have resumed their
wonted state of tranquil beatitude. But just as a
company of priests from southern Hindostan came in,
and stood before them in mute reverence, all the five
priests began to make up mouths, writhe upon their
seats, and make all sorts of absurd growling noises,
like so many bears. The pilgrims fled in dismay, and
immediately a cry ran from chapel to chapel, that sor-
cery had invaded the holy places, and that five gy longs
of extraordinary sanctity had become bewitched.

The news spread over the temple of Btlddha-la in a
few minutes ; from thence it was communicated to the
other monasteries, and in an hour all the great avenues
and squares and halls of the temple were filled with
excited people, lamas, and Chinese soldiers. I was
quite sober by this time, and was among the crowd,
greatly amused by the scene. At last I heard twenty
voices cry out at once, " There he is ; seize him !" At
the same time, I saw them point at me. I soon heard
that I was regarded as the sorcerer, and immediately
saw the danger I was in, if the excited mass were to
get me in their power.

Plunging into the thick of the crowd, I pushed my
way to a small square, and, threading several familiar
passages, I soon reached my lodgings. I locked myself
in ; but in a few minutes I heard Butter Pate thump-
ing and calling at the door. I let him in, and asked
him what was to be done. "Eottss^ T£l'^\'* ^'soSlV^^

o2

196 I ESCAPE.

quite out of breath ; at the same time he pushed back
a secret spring in the wall, and a door flew open. We
entered, and sped along a dark passage, till we came to
a flight of stairs. We groped our way up these,
which I perceived to be rough, and hewn out of the
solid wall. We continued to ramble along throu^
a great number of courts, corridors, and passages, some
lighted by openings in the ground above, and some as
dark as night.

At the end of an hour we emerged into the vault of
a small stone temple. We ascended to the ground-
floor, carefully looking around, to see if any person was
there. We foimd no one, and accordingly walked forth.
I now discovered that we had ascended to the very top
of the mountmn, which rises several thousand feet
behind the temple of Footala, and this we had achieved
by an underground passage wrought in the rock. On
both sides of us, to the right and left, the rocky ter-
races of the mountains are occupied by monasteries, of
which we could count more than a hundred, encircling
the valley beneath.

We had now time to breathe. After a while, I said
to my friend, " Well, you have saved me from being
torn to pieces, but what shall I do now ?"

"You see yonder plain," said he, pointing to the
north, ^' and, beyond, a range of mountains, lying along
the vei^e of the horizon like a cloud ?"

« I do," said I.

" Well, that plain is the northern part of Thibet,
and the masses beyond are the Kien-lun mountains.
There lies your road."

^ But, suppose I choose to go the other wayp"

" You will lose your liberty — ^perhaps your life."

^ Yon are jertisig, &ieii'iB\siCi\i6£ ¥«iW

A BAEGAIlSr AND A OOOD-BTE. 197

" Not at aU."

" But really, I had nothing to do with all this
rumpus ; I am no sorcerer."

" But you were at the supper, and the five holy lamas
who got tipsy must have an excuse, and so they will
say it was sorcery, and they will lay it all to you. H
you once get into the hands of the Grand Lama, you
will be Med like a saddle of mutton, or drowned in a
lake of pitch, or smothered in the raw hides of buffaloes,
or dragged to death at the heels of * a Taik !' '*

" What a delightful prospect ! And you really think
I must go ?"

" There is no other way, if you would save your life."

" But, my dear friend Butter Pate, how can you part
with me ?"

" You can soften our parting by a present."

"Of how much?"

" I leave it to your generosity."

" You have saved my life — I owe you all I have —
here is my purse ; take what you will."

" I will take twenty dollars ; you will need the rest."

Accordingly, the lama counted out twenty dollars,
and then, having given me various directions and
instructions, we parted. I was forced to confess that,
in spite of his duplicity and meanness. Butter Pate had
treated me with kindness. His tax upon my purse had
been light, considering that I was completely in his
power, and that he might easily have taken the whole.
"After all," said I to myself, "the conscience of man
sees a just God in the heavens, however the craft of
lamas and gylongs may obscure the horizon with the
clouds of darkness and error. These poor pagans of
Thibet, without the light of the Gospel, have many
amiable traits of character ; and their crimes and vicoa

198 COKSIDEEATIOir.

are not worse than those which are common in lands
blessed with the Bible, and all the institutions of a true
and pure religion. Let me not be too severe upon them
then. As God tempers the wind to the shorn lamb, so
he adapts his dispensations to the circumstances of his
children, of whatever name or faith they may be."

CHAPTER XXV.

Consideration. — Pros and Cons. — Lay my Course to the North-
west. — Vindication of my Character. — About making a Fortune. —
Climate of Thibet. — Ejrtraordinary Eflfects of Drought. — Fall in
with a Comi)any of Traders. — ^Passage of the Kien-lun Moun-
tains. — Desert of Gobi. — Turkistan. — Travelling over the Desert.
— Account of my Companions. — Tedious Journey of Fifteen Days.
■ — The Camel Family, — ^Arrival at Khotan. — Description of the
Place. — Yarkand,

It will be readily conceived that, having worn out my
welcome at Lassa, my situation was very embarrassing.
Which way should I steer — north, south, east, or
west ? That was the question.

It was now December, and, though in the valley of
Lassa it was still mild and pleasant weather, I knew
that in the higher table-lands around, the air was
already spiced with the keen winds of winter. I was
inclined, therefore, to turn to the south, and enter
Hindostan, as I knew I should there find a warm and
pleasant climate. But between me and that country
lay the terrible barriers of the Himalaya mountains ;
which, at this season, I knew to be impassable in the
direction I must take. I should have liked to cross
China, and worked my way to the sea ; but this lay to
the east, and, in order to get there, I must pass through
Thibet, which I deemed impossible, now that the

PEOS AKD CONS. 199

government at the capital had become irritated against
me.

I saw no other way, therefore, than to proceed west-
ward, and take my chance of what might happen. It
was better to be at liberty, even in the wilds of Tartary,
than imprisoned, or perhaps beheaded, in Thibet. My
resolution was therefore soon taken. After a few
hours' thought and preparation, and still having about
two hundred dollars in my pocket, for I had scarcely
dipped into my purse at Lassa, I set forth, taking the
direction of what is called Little Thibet.

As I trudged along on foot, I revolved all sorts of
schemes in my head as to what I should do. Of course,
one of my chief objects was to travel. To go-ahead
was now as much a necessity for me as for water to
run down-hill : but, after all, T liked to do something
as I went along. It was very pleasant to see different
countries, and study geography a-foot, and learn man-
ners and customs by one's own observation and expe-
rience ; it was pleasant enough to have an adventure
now and then ; but yet it seemed that it was time for
me to be looking out for solid advantages, which might
serve me when I should return home and settle down
at Sandy Plain.

In short, thriftless as people may think me, I assert
it as a fact, that I have never entirely lost sight of the
main chance. To make my fortune has been always
my main object. For this I set out, and for this I
have kept a-going. And, even now, in Central Asia,
cut off by distance and the obstacles of nature from the
whole civilized world, and from all its thoroughfares
and pathways, I did not wholly give up the ship. My
first object was to secure the means of living ; these I
had, for a time, at least, sewed into the waistband of

20Q CLIMATE or THIBET.

my pantaloons. If this money should get exhausted,
I thought of exhibiting myself as the tall man ; for,
being six feet two inches high, I was a perfect prodigy
among these Tartars. If that should not do, why, I
could try something else.

But then, as to making money, getting a ship-load
of gold, or my pockets full of diamonds, — ^what chance
was there of these things in going to Little Thibet, or
• Great Tartary ? Why, to say the truth, just none at
all. The best I could hope was to go there, and then
to go away again ; and I was to do this in the winter
season.

It was a chill prospect before me, but I pulled my
goat-skin cap sharp over my brow, set it north-west, and
went ahead. For several days I proceeded over imdu-
lating grounds, gradually rising into the higher table-
lands of Central Asia. The weather grew colder at
every step. The drought was very severe, and the
ground was like powder. Every particle of moisture
seemed to be taken out of the earth by the cold blasts
that swept day and night over the land, bearing along
thick clouds of dust with them.

The eflTects of this intense drought were very re-
markable. The rocks along the shaggy sides of the
mountain were split into fragments, and, as they fell,
seemed dissolved into dust. The leaves of the trees
could be ground to powder between the fingers. As I
travelled along, I found that the timbers of the houses
were also split, and the inhabitants were obliged, often,
to cover them with wet cloths, or throw buckets of
water upon them, to preserve them. In these regions
timber never rots : the flesh of sheep and goats, ex-
posed to the air, becomes so dry that it may be ground,
like wheat, into a sort of meat-bread, like the beef-

TALL IS WITH A COMPAinr Or TBADEES. 201

biscuit made in Texas. THs is firequently practised ;
travellers are generally supplied with it, and I found it
convenient to take it along with me in my journey.
Indeed, flesh-bread is common all over Thibet, and
especially in the higher portions, where the drought is
more general.

For ten days I pursued my march alone, though I
met numerous groups of herdsmen, in their tents, and
some villages on the way. I had become so tanned a«
to have a pretty good Tartar complexion, and my goat-
skin coat and cap, with a pretty good stock of Tartar
phrases, enabled me to pass as a native of the country.
When the people rolled up their eyes at my altitude, I
suggested that a man bom in the Himalaya mountains
might be expected to be a little taller than the inhabit-
ants of the flat country, twenty thousand feet below.
Thus I passed along without suspicion or hindrance.

At last I fell in with a company of merchants, re-
turning from a trading expedition to Tchin-too, in
China. They were about sixty in number, and mostly
from Little Bucharia and the vicinity. I concluded to
join them, and as all were mounted on horses, I bought
a tough cob for eleven dollars, and proceeded with
them. There is little snow in these regions, even
during winter, but as it was now nearly December,
there was a good deal of driving hail and sleet. These,
urged by the swift, keen wind, were often very severe.
We, however, advanced rapidly — at least fifty miles a
day. We soon reached the Kien-lun mountains, which
proved a formidable barrier. They are 16,000 feet
high, and the tops are covered with perpetual ice. At
this time, the whole range, down to the valleys, was
wrapped in snow. We, however, passed them in the
space of four days, and now entered u^on ih& ^^^ji;*

202 DESEET OP GOBI — TrEKISTAN.

desert of Central Asia. This bears the general name
of Cohi, or Oohi, and extends in several patches, inter-
sected by fertile spots, at least 1200 miles. Its width
varies from 200 to 600 miles.

We were now in the southern edge of Chinese
Tartaiy, or Turkistan. Our design was to pass through
the towns of Khotan and Tarkand, into Little Bucha-
ria. Our general course, therefore, was across the
desert, to the north-west. The extent of the desert
here, in the direction in which we were to cross it, was
about three hundred miles. It appears at a distance
like a sea of sand, presenting an even, level line along
the horizon, but, in passing over it, I foimd it to con-
sist of a sHghtly undulating surface of hard, dry, sterile
earth. Here and there we met with patches of thistles
and other prickly plants; and at long intervals we
found wells where we watered our beasts. The weather
was not cold, but the wind swept with a constant blast
across the plains, occasionally raising clouds of dust, and
obliging us to stop and turn our backs, or even to
dismoimt and lie flat on the ground, till the gust had
exhausted itself.

There was a sort of road, dimly traced by the hoofs
of the animals which had often travelled the route,
which directed our course. On the third day after
entering upon the desert, we overtook a caravan, com-
prising about a hundred dromedaries and some twenty
horses. The persons in this company were mostly
traders, who had been to Hindostan. Several of them
were great travellers, and one of them had visited Con-
stantinople and St. Petersburg. I learned from these
persons that the whole central portion of Asia, almost
unknown and unheard of in our country, is the theatre
of a very extensive trade, in which the camels and

TEDIOrS JOTTENET. 203

dromedaries are used for transportation, especially
across the deserts. Hence the camel is called the '^ ship
of the desert,^*

The people with whom I was travelling were Tartars,
but of a great variety of tribes. The inhabitants of
Central Asia are broken up, like our American Indians,
into numerous families. These differ in some respects,
but there is, nevertheless, a general resemblance. They
have a skin of the colour of a seared leaf, with black
hair and black eyes. The latter are small, and have a
dip downward toward the nose. Those in our company
were mostly Mahometans.

The journey was very tedious, and occupied fifteen
day*. At the end, our horses were completely worn
out. .The dromedaries looked very thin, and had a sad,
woe-begone look ; but this is their ordinary condition
and aspect. In fact, I know of nothing that seems
more melancholy and despairing than the whole camel
tribe. Their form, their gait, their countenance, seem
to say that the camel is born unto toil, privation, and
hard work, from the beginning to the end. I had
supposed the creature gentle, patient, and resigned, but
he is on the contrary, snappish, quarrelsome, and dis-
contented — and requires the utmost care, patience, and
encouragement on the part of his driver. If not petted,
and favoured, and encouraged, he gives himself up to
the sulks, or perhaps to despair, in which case he lies
down in the desert, and after the vultures and ravens
have taken his flesh, his bones remain as a tombstone,
till they are buried and forgotten in the sand.

At last we arrived at Khotan, which I found to be a
considerable town, encircled by a mud wall some ten
feet high. This is, howev*, only a pretence ; for as a
matter of military defence, it is easily broken, da^^s.^

204 DESCEIPTIOB" or KHOTAK — TAEKAIH).

and in many places it is in a complete state of decay.
Here, as I learned, there is a Chinese governor and a
garrison, but I did not see them, as my stay was short.
Khotan has a considerable manufactory of silks, leather,
paper, &c. It is noted as a market for musk, and also
for a kind of jasper, called t/u. The inhabitants are of
the tribe known as TTsbecTcs, and are deemed a very
handsome race by the people in this quarter. For my
part, I was constantly reminded by them of our Ame-
rican Indians, from their copper complexion, their
smooth skin, their small, black, piercing eyes, and their
straight, coarse black hair.

Having remained at Khotan two days, I proceeded
with some dozen of our party on the route towards
Yarkand, which lies about two hundred aAd fifty miles
north-west of Khotan. Th« coimtry improved as we
advanced, and on approaching Yarkand, the territory
appeared to be occupied with numerous villages. The
suburbs of the city indeed extend for some miles around
and outside the walls. The latter consist of a high
rampart of earth, and are strengthened by two citadels,
one in, and one without the town. The garrison con-
sists of about seven thousand Chinese soldiers. These
are recruited from boys of fifteen or sixteen years old,
who serve fifteen years, and are then dismissed.

CHAPTEE XXVI.

Little Thibet. — Crossing the Boundary between the Chinese Empire
and Independent Tartary. — Muz-Fuz, the Armenian Merchant. —
Buying a Passport. — How I got taken in. — How to blind the
Eyes with Gold. — Arrival at Samarcand. — ^Description of the
Place. — Tomb of Timour.

It had been my intention to visit what is called Little
Thibet, but I found it lay iai to tii'ft ftouth and out of

MUZ-rT7Z, THE ABAfEKIAJf MEBOHAKT. 2Q5

my way, for I had now determined to steer nearly west,
and return home by way of Persia and Turkey. How
little we know beforehand whai may happen to us.

It appears that a strict watch is kept all along
the Chinese frontier, to see that nobody comes in or
goes out, unless it may be certain persons licensed for
these purposes. Kow I had no licence, and as it was
my desire to pass from Little Bucharia, one of the
Chinese provinces, into the territory of Great Bucharia,
which is a Tartar principality, I was somewhat puzzled
to know what to do. At last I went to see Muz-Fuz,
an Armenian merchant, with whom I had crossed the
desert of Gobi, and asked his advice.

Mr. Fuz was a man of middle height, but of great
breadth, his body being rather flat and shingly; his
hair black as a coal ; he had black eyes, and a close,
solid-lookiug black beard. Alt<^ether he was what
may be called a handsome man, though, as to that, I
never saw but two or three handsome men in my life.
What the girls call " a pretty young man," generally
reminds me of a smooth dipt candle, and what older
women call "ducks," and "dears," and so on, as I
have generally found them siUy and conceited, so they
appear to me like monkeys smiling at their own beauty
in a looking-glass. After all, it is well enough for a
woman to be h^mdsome, but for a man, it is of no sort
of consequence, beyond having an agreeable and respect-
able look.

I found Muz-Fuz at breakfast, and though he pro-
fessed to be a Christian, he was sitting on a cushion, his
legs imder him, like avy Turk. Some unleavened cakes
and a dish of pomegranates seemed to constitute his
frugal meal. He made the Moslem sign of welcome,
bowing and putting his hoada to \^ i<;st^«^^&.^ ^s» X

206 BTTTHTG A PASSPOET.

entered. He asked me, politely, to join him in his
repast.

You seldom oftend a man by sharing his meal. So I
sat down, and was helped to what the table offered.
After a few moments Fuz looked keenly through his
shaggy eyebrows at me, as much as to say,

"Well, sir, what is your will ?"

I answered immediately :

" I want to get a pass into the Khanship of Bu-
charia."

"Are you a licensed merchant ?" said he.

"No,** was my reply.

" Are you a privileged lama, a Kootooktoo, or gy-
long ?"

" Not a bit of it."

"You are forbidden to pass the frontier, then."

" And therefore must pay."

" Exactly."

" How much ?"

" Seven dollars."

" Agreed — ^there is the money !"

"And there is the pass !"

So Muz Fuz handed me a greasy piece of silk paper,
dabbed with three or four Chinese characters. I thanked
him, shook his hand, and was about to depart.

" Stay," says Fuzzy — " are you a Christian ?"

"Yes."

" Well, then, I must be frank with thee. That is a
pass into Great Bucharia : thou wilt need a pass out of
China!"

" Well done ! If I go into Great Bucharia, of course
I can't stay in China."

" I see — ^you are a philosopher, not a merchant. In
philosophy, going into Buc\im2i TCkfidaa& cutting the

HOW I GOT TAKEN IK. 207

Celestial Empire. In trade, they are two distinct
things, and cost seven dollars each."

"Well, friend Muz Fuz, you ought to hav6 been
bom in Connecticut. I really feel as if you were a
relative — a cousin, at least. If you will change that
tall dogskin cap for a hat, cut off your beard, and go with
me, I warrant you a handsome fortune in the clock
line."

" Speak not lightly of my beard, for it is my glory.
I would part with it, perhaps, for a hundred carats of
diamonds of the first water, as it would grow again.
But we lose time. Do you wish the pass ?"

" Is there no help for it ?"

"None."

" Come, be reasonable, take half price !"

" I cannot abate a farthing. Do you know that I
risk my neck in these transactions ?"

" Why ? are these papers forgeries ?"

"Undoubtedly."

" And you have the face to charge fourteen dollars
apiece ! And you confess them to be forgeries ? In our
country, a man who does such things should have a face
of brass."

" Do as you please."

" Is there no other way ?"

" Why have you come to me ?"

" I was advised to do so."

" Well, you have come. What concern is it of yours,
if these papers be false, provided they answer your pur-
pose ?"

" Will they answer my purpose ?"

" Yes ; if you are discreet."

" What does being discreet mean ?"

" Giving the officers two do\\.2GC^ e2rf3a.^\»N2aa^<3^iH^^^''*'

208 HOW TO BLUTD THE ETES WITH GOLD.

" In addition to the fourteen ?"

" Certainly ; and for this reason : the passes are false ;
and to prevent the officers from discovering it, blind
their eyes with silver, though gold is better !"

" Oh, friend Fuzzy, give us your hand ; you are a
wise man . A dieu !' '

" Not so fast. Stay a moment. One thing must be
remembered. You pronounce the name of the country
you are about to visit Bucha/ria, This is offensive. The
true title of the country is Bokhara, meaning the Trea-^
Bv/ry of Sciences, Beware ; remember the adage that
the * tongvs has the colov/r of a marCs soul^ **

" How much must I pay for this advice ?"

" Nothing ; it is gratis!**

" May I believe my senses!"

"You may. Farewell.'*

And so we parted.

I passed the frontier without difficulty, taking care to
follow the directions of the Armenian, as to blinding the
eyes of the officers with a few pieces of silver. They
glanced their little black oblique eyes at the passes, and
no doubt they knew wellenough that they were fictitious.
Indeed, I was told that the fraud was understood by the
government and the officers, and that both shared in the
profits of this system of counterfeit and plunder.

Four days' travel brought me to Samarcand, one of
the most celebrated places in Tartary. It is situated on
the little river Logd, and contains about ten thousand
inhabitants. The outer wall is rather a series of. defences,
now completely decayed : it encloses a space thirty miles
in circumference. The inner wall is of earth, and is much
smaller, enclosing only the present city. Between the
two, however, are gardens, parks, fields^ and extensive
suburbs.

HAMJlBOJJSTD — TOMB OP TIM0T7B. 209

This place has all the marks of ancient grandeur and
pr^ent decay. Gardens and cultivated fields now cover
the sites formerly occupied by edifices of stone and
marble. The two hundred mosques, some of white
marble, which three or four hundred years ago adorned
the city, are mostly in ruins. Of the forty ancient col-
leges, only three remain fully organized. The buildings
of two of them are still handsome, one being ornamented
with bronze and enamelled bricks, and the other noted
for the el^ance of its architectural proportions. The
tomb of the famous Timour the Tartar, or Tamerlane,
or Timour Beg — ^for he had as many names as a counter-
feiter — ^is still in good preservation, and is admired for
its superb dome, the walls of which are richly decorated
with jasper and agate.

Samarcand, though it has sunk into an inferior town,
was the capital of the Mongol empire in the most
splendid period of its history. Here, too, rest the ashes
of the renowned Timour, as well as those of his family.
It is, therefore, a kind of holy city, a Mecca, or a Jeru-
salem, with the Usbekians. A king of Tartary who has
not included Samarcand in his dominions is not regarded
as a legitimate sovereign.

CHAPTEE XXVII.

The Tartars. — ^Resemblance to the American Indians. — Zingis
Khan. — His Origin and early Exploits. — He is recognised as
King of all the Tribes. — (Jrand Ceremony. — Exterior Conquests. —
The Kingdom of Kharesm. — The sad Story of Jelaleddin. — Great
Festivalof Zingis and his Army. — Death of Zingis. — His Character.

Bepobs I began to travel iu Central Asia, I had heard
very little of the Tartars, except as a barbarous race,
who resembled in personal api^e«iiMiefc ova ksssKr^Rssa.

210 ZIKGIS EHAlir.

Indians. This resemblance is, indeed, very striking;
but I found Tartary to be much more populous than I
had supposed. This part of it, in which I now was,
seemed indeed not only to be a fine coimtry naturally,
but the people were actually much farther from the
savage state than I expected.

I began to be greatly interested in the history of the
country ; for it seems that the principal nations of the
earth originated in these high central plains of Asia ;
and here, too, some of the most famous conquerors
of the world began and ended their career. Zingis
Khan, the first of these restless chiefs, originated near
Lake Baikal. He belonged to a small tribe called Mon-
£fol8, which signifies brave. The people in these regions
are divided into small tribes, some forty of which were
united in warlike enterprises by Zingis* father ; but at
his death two-thirds of them refused to obey his son,
who then bore the name of Temugin, He was only
twelve years old, but he fought them, conquered them,
and reduced them to obedience. This exploit gained
him fame, respect, and influence ; but he was afterwards
obliged to seek assistance from the great khan of the
empire, who was under obligations to his father. The
khan, in gratitude to his father, and esteem for Zingis,
reinstated him in his paternal dominions, and gave hinn
his daughter in marriage.

Temugin had been educated with the greatest atten-
tion, and the care of his childhood was confided to a
very able minister. He was well versed in all the exer-
cises which belong to a Tartar education. He could
shoot his arrow or strike his lance with imerring aim,
either when advancing or retreating — in full career or
at rest. He could endure himger, thirst, fatigue, cold,
Biid pain. He managed \u& ^eiee and heavy war-horse

HE IS BEOOaiQSXD AS KLSa, 211

or his light and impetuous courser, with such consum-
mate skill, by word, or look, or touch, that man and
beast seemed but one animal, swayed by one common will.

Having gained some military success for his father-
in-law, his high favour at the court excited jealousies
both in his family and in the empire. He had further
rendered himself unpopular by inducing the khan to
assimie more authority than the subject-princes could
willingly accede to. The princes, therefore, rose against
the khan, and defeated him in battle ; but his son-in-law
replaced him on the throne, by winning for him a bril-
liant victory. This victory was tarnished, however, by
cruelty ; for Temugin scalded seventy of his enemies to
death by flinging them alive into seventy caldrons of
boiling water.

Envy and revenge did not cease these machinations ;
but at last means were found to render his father-in-law
jealous of so famous a son. Temugin, after exhausting
every conciliatory measure, thought himself obliged to
build up a party of his own in self-defence. Eecourse
was at last had to arms, the khan was slain, and
Temugin, affcer some further struggles with his enemies,
one by one, succeeded to the empire.

He was now forty years old, and, wishing to secure
himself in his extensive dominions, he convoked the
princes of his empire at Karakorum, his capital, to
do him homage. They all met here on the appointed
day, clothed in white. Advancing into the midst, with
the diadem upon his brow, Temugin seated himself upon
his throne, and received the congratulations and good
wishes of the khans and princes. They then confirmed
him and hia descendants in the sovereignty of the
Mongol empire, declaring themselves and their descen-
dants divested of all rights of thia nat\ucQ«

x2

212 GBA^D CEBEMOyr.

After some further victories, he renewed the cere-
moDial in a stm more simple and signal manner. Stand-
ing on a plain mound of turf, near the banks of the
Selenga, he harangued the assembled princes with an
eloquence natural to him, and then sat down on a piece
of black felt which was spread npon the earth. This
felt was revered for a long time afterwards as a sacred
national relic. An appointed orator then addressed
him in these words : " However great yonr power, from
God yon hold it : He will prosper you, if you govern
justly : if you abuse your authority, you will become
black as this felt, a wretch and an outcast." Seven
khans then respectfully assisted him to rise, conducted
him to his throne, and proclaimed him lord of the
Mongol empire.

A relative, a saint and prophet, naked, like the mara-
bouts of the present day, then approached. " I come,"
said he, " with G-od's order, that you henceforth take
the name of Zingis Khan, that is — greatest khan of
khans." The Moguls ratified this name with extrava-
gant tokens of joy, and considering it a divine title to
the empire of the world, looked upon all opposing
nations as enemies of God.

Nothing was now impossible to Zingis. By a rapid
succession of victories he found himself, in the year
1226, master of a territory stretching from Corea, in
Asia, to Hungary, in Europe, a space of five thousand
miles. The descriptions of his butcheries are terrific.
His conquest of the empire of Kharesm, now called
Khiva, which embraced Great Bokhara, and the sur-
rounding country, and which was governed by a sultan
named Mamoud, may be taken as an example of his
operations. The destructive conqueror rushed upon
all parts of this small \)\it {Lo\xni^\im^ km^dom at once.

EXTEBIOB C0NQX7SSTS. 213

One hundred and fifty thousand Kharesmians were
slain in the first hattle. Like a devouring conflagra-
tion, the invaders swept from city to city, leaving
behind them only heaps of cinders. A body of Chinese
engineers, skilled m mechanics, and perhaps acquainted
with the use of gunpowder, assisted the destroyer.
Samarcand, Balkh, Bokhara, and many other cities
which had flourished with the wealth and trade of
centuries, now underwent a pitiless ruin to the very
foundations. Mamoud's armies were almost uniformly
defeated. He himself, driven to miserable extremity,
came to the shores of the Caspian, and embarking in a
boat, amid a shower of arrows, escaped on an island
only to die of sickness and despair ; yet not until he
had enjoined his son Jelaleddin to avenge him. Tossed
by every wave of fortune, this daimtless and persevering
king did all that man could do to fulfil the injunctions
of a dying father ; but hemmed in by the loss of city
afber city, he was at last driven to an island in the
river Indus.

Here he burned his ships, except one for his family.
His soldiers died around him, defending themselves like
tigers at bay. The Kharesmians now took refuge in
the rocks where the Tartar cavalry could not penetrate ;
but being reduced to only seven hundred men, the
sultan disbanded them. The unfortunate Jelaleddin,
having embraced his family, and torn himself away
from them, now took oflP his cuirass, stripped himself
of all his arms but his sword, quiver, and bow, mounted
a fresh horse, and plunged into the river. In the midst
of the stream, he turned round and emptied his quiver
in defiance against Zingis, who stood on the bank. The
ship in which the family of the dethroned monarch had
embarked was wrecked as it left thi^ %\v^x^<^ %£l^ NkiL^^^

214 SAB STOBY or JELALEBDIK.

fell into the conqueror's hands, who afterwards murdered
them.

The fugitive prince passed the night in a tree, jfrom
fear of wild beasts. On the next day he met some of
his soldiers. He now collected all the fugitives he
could muster, and, being joined by an officer of his
household, with a boat laden with arms, provisions,
money, and clothing, he established himself in India.
But unable to endure exile, he returned to his country,
and after many misfortunes, died in obscurity, soon
afber the death of his conqueror. Such is but a
single passage in the terrible history of Zingis the
destroyer.

When he had conquered a great part of China, sub-
dued all central Asia, overturned the kingdom of the
Saracens, subjugated a portion of the Greek empire —
being on the banks of the Indus, he at last yielded to
the desire of his soldiers for repose, and the enjoyment
of the wealth they had gathered with so much toil and
blood. Returning slowly, encumbered with spoil, he
cast an eye of regret around him, and intimated his
intention of rebuilding the cities he had swept away.
As he passed the Jaxartes, there came to meet him two
of his generals, whom he had sent roimd the southern
shore of the Caspian, with thirty thousand men. They
had fought their way through the passes of the Cau-
casus, traversed the marshy regions near the Volga,
crossed the desert, and come back by a route north of
Lake Aral — an unexampled feat, in ancient or modem
times.

As soon as the princes and generals were returned

from their several expeditions, Zingis assembled them

together in a large plain, which, though twenty-one

jniles in extent, scarce {umi&\ied tooth Cot tlie tents and

GBAITD FESTITAL Or ZOTGIS KHAK. 215

equipages of his countless hosts. His own quarters
occupied six miles in circuit. A white tent, capable of
containing two thousand persons, was spread over his
throne, on which lay the black bit of felt used at his
coronation. But now, instead of the primitive sim-
plicity of the vagabond Tartar, all the luxury of Asia
guttered in the dress, horses, harness, arms, and fur-
niture of the vast assemblage. • The emperor received
the homage of his powerful vassals with majesty, and
that of his children and grandchildren, all of whom
were permitted to kiss his hand. He graciously ac-
cepted their presents, and in return distributed among
them magnificent donations. The soldiery also partook
of the liberality of the great robber of robbers.

The mighty khan, who was fond of public speaking,
now pronounced an oration, commending his code of
laws. To these he attributed all his success and con-
quests, which he minutely enumerated. The ambas-
sadors from the several coimtries subjected to his sway
were then admitted to an audience, and dismissed well
satisfied. The whole ceremonial was concluded with a
grand festival, which lasted many days. At the daily
banquets were served up everything most exquisite in
fruits, game, liquors, and edibles^to be had in any part
of his boundless dominions.

Such festivals were followed by new triumphs, and
prosperity seemed always to attend the conqueror's en-
terprises. He died a.d. 1226, at the age of seventy,
having reigned twenty-two years, and preserved to the
last his complete ascendency over the surrounding
nations as well as his own. His magnificent funeral
was unsullied with the human sacrifices which desecrated
the obsequies of his ancestors. His simple sepulchre,
beneath a tree whose shade he had loved^ b^Q.<dxsi<^ *^is^

216 CHABAOTEB 01* ZINQIS EHAIT.

object of veneration to liis people, who were wont fondly
to embellish it.

This famous man was characterized by qualities
fitting him for a conqueror — a genius capable of con-
ceiving great and arduous designs, with prudence equal
to their execution ; a native and persuasive eloquence ;
a degree of patience enabling him to endure and over-
come fatigue; an admirable temperance; a superior
understanding ; and a penetrating mind, that instantly
seized the measure proper to be adopted. His military
talents are conspicuous in his successfully introducing a
strict discipline and severe police among the Tartars^
until then indocile to the curb of restraint.

Such was the celebrated Zingis Khan. We are apt
to be dazzled bj the deeds of a conqueror, and in the
excitement of our sympathy, to forget the actual horrors
of such a career of violence. It is supposed that the
wars of Zingis caused the death of five miUions of
human beings, without naming other millions who were
brought to a miserable and premature grave by sorrow,
disappointment, and slavery. No less than fifty thou-
sand towns and cities were destroyed by him, and even
now, after a lapse of six centuries, many of the countries
he ravaged have not recovered from the devastations
he inflicted.

THOM^ UYEBLIGHT AKD CUSTABD. 2l7

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Instnictiye Story about Thomas Liverligbt and Custard. — Timour
or Tamerlane. — The beautiful Queen, Tekine Eatune. — Making
great Men. — ^The Dream of the Eight Stars. — ^War with the
Getes. — ^Timour's Talent at Story-telling. — His vast Conquests. —
Story of Bajazet. — Timour's Death. — Horrors committed by him.
— Lining Men, with Brush and Mortar, made into Furtifica-
tions. — Enormous Spoils taken by Timour and his Army. — A
great Feast.

I HABDLY know whether my readers will forgive me
for introducing such long accounts of the famous men
of those far-off regions, into which my travels had now
led me. Nevertheless, one must take some risk, now
and then, and therefore I shall venture a little more in
this line, giving free permission to everybody to skip
over what they don't like. I recollect that in my
early days, my mother asked Tom Liverlight, one of my
playfellows, to dine with us, and he consented. He
wielded his knife and fork very well, but when we
offered him some custard he drew back, and said some-
what sulkily that he wouldn't have any.

" Why not ?" said my mother.

*' 'Cause !" said he.

" 'Cause why ?" was the answer.

" 'Cause I don't know what it is."

" It's custard."

" Wal,— I don't like it."

" Eeally,— and why not ?"

" 'Cause I never tasted it."

And so Thomas Liverlight went without his custard ;
and so, my readers who reject the history of Zingis
Khan and Tamerlane, because they never heard of
these strange characters before, may shove back from
the table, if they please, and let others devour the
feast.

218 TIMOUB OB TAMEBLAIO!.

I remained at Samarcand nearly three weeks, during
which time I was chiefly occupied in learning the
history of Tartary. This city, as I have before stated,
was the residence of Timour or Tamerlane, and under
him it became one of the most splendid capitals in
the world.

Timour was quite as remarkable in his history as the
great Zingis : indeed, the incidents of his life are even
more romantic. He was the son of prince Tragai, and
bom near his father's capital, called Kech, in Inde-
pendent Tartary, a.d. 1336. His mother was the
beautiful queen, Tekine Katune. His birth, according
to the history of his country, had been long predicted
to one of his ancestors, by a dream, in which eight
splendid stars seemed to shoot out of the sleeper. The
eighth appeared to cast round such a glory as to
illuminate the four quarters of the world. This was
understood to mean that a prince, in the eighth ge-
neration, should be bom, who would fill the earth with
the splendour of his deeds. Timour was imderstood,
at the moment of his birth, to be the prince pointed
out by the prophecy, and of course great things were
expected of him.

His biographers were pretty much like our modern
president makers. These latter, when they fix upon a
man to fiU the chief office of the nation, write pam-
phlets and books about him, and, though he was an
ordinary man before, he is now made to swell up into
a prodigy. All his little commonplace actions and
sayings, which had before passed as hardly worth re-
cording, are now embellished and coloured, and ex-
aggerated, so as to appear like marvellous indications
of his future greatness. Even the facts of history are
changed, and if the hero always ran away from battle.

MAOKG GBEAT MEK. 219

these kind biographers make it out that, somehow or
other, he was always victorious, and therefore they
bestow upon him the title of a great general. If there
is a blank in his biography, in which he said and did
nothing, they fill it up with magnificent flourishes of
what he will do if he comes into power. The people
of modem times are like the people of ancient times,
and they love to be amused and cheated in this way.
Hence we often see them paying homage to the images
of " clay and brass,'* which juggling politicians have
set up for them. How these cunning magicians must
laugh in their sleeves to see the enthusiasm of the
masses for the little puppets whom they have dressed
up and made to appear Uke giants !

The biographers of Timour not only tell us of the
dream of the eight stars, but they go on to assert that
as soon as he reached the age of reason, something
might be seen in all his actions which showed an air
of sovereignty. He would talk of nothing but thrones
and crowns, and his favourite discourses had reference
to the art of war or the government of kingdoms.

All this was no doubt made up afterwards, when, the
career of Timour being finished, it was thought fit by
his historians to invent stories of his early life, to suit
his actual character. In this respect, these biographers
differed from those we have alluded to above, inasmuch
as their inventions were compatible with the subject to
which they related.

I cannot tell a hundredth part of the tales related of
Timour during the early part of his life. One only
must suffice as a sample. On a certain occasion,
during a state of war, as he was waiting for his confe-
derates at Samarcand, the enemy came upon him.
With sixty soldiers, he fled into the de^wt, \s>afc \i'KtRi Va

220 TIMOFE'S talent at STOBY-TELLnfa.

was suddenly met and attacked by a thousand Getes —
wild Tartar warriors of those regions. He and his
men fought with incredible strength and valour, and
finally slew the greater part of the assailants. At last
his friends were all killed but ten, and then, three
others, appalled at the danger, fled. With his little
band, Timour now wandered about in the wilderness,
but he was finally captured and thrown into prison.
After a time, he escaped, swam across the river Oxus,
and, being joined by a few followers, led the life of a
robber and outlaw.

At length he returned to his native country, and
three of his friends, who were chiefs, hearing that he
was in the desert, went to see him. They soon found
him, and Timour thus describes the interview : " When
their eyes fell upon me, they were overwhelmed with
joy, and they alighted from their horses. Then they
came and kneeled and kissed my stirrup. I also came
down from my horse, and took each of them in my
arms. And I put my turban upon the head of the first
chief ; my girdle, rich in jewels, and wrought with gold,
I bound on the loins of the second ; and the third I
clothed in my coat. And they wept, and I wept also ;
and the hour of prayer arrived, and we prayed. And
we mounted our horses and came to my dwellmg, and I
collected my people, and we made a feast."

Whatever else we may think of Tamerlane, we must
admit that he had a pleasant way of telling a story.

The career of this famous chief was but little more
than a series of bloody conquests and savage triumphs.
He ravaged the countries immediately around him, and
then undertook more distant enterprises. He com-
pelled Persia to submit to his authority, and imposed
sui amount, as tribute, on the rich island city of Ormus, of

HOBBOfiS COlilllTTSD SY HIM. 221

six hundred thousand dinars of gold. He subdued all
Western Asia, and a portion of Europe, even threatening
Moscow and Novgorod — ^burning Azof, and reducing to
ashes many other Kussian cities. He conquered
Bajazet, the powerful and warlike sultan of the Turks,
in Asia Minor, who met him with four hundred thou-
sand troops. Having taken him prisoner, he confined
him in an iron cage. He invaded India or Hindostan,
and plimdered it of its countless treasures of gold,
silver, and precious stones. Finally, he gathered an
army of one miUion two hundred thousand men. and, in
mid- winter, set out for the conquest of China. On his
way he was taken with fever, and died, a.d. 1405,
aged seventy years.

Some of the accoimts of this fearful man iill the
mind with horror. After a victory he would erect
towers formed of the heads of the slain, or perhaps of
the prisoners, each soldier being obliged to bring one
head, to aid in constructing the hideous pile. In one
instance, he ordered 4000 soldiers and their horses to
be pitched into the moat of a city which he had taken.
In an expedition against the G-etes, he took 2000 pri-
soners. These he had piled alive, one upon the other,
with brush and mortar between, to construct military
works. Seventy thousand heads were used by him as
building materials, in the city of Ispahan, in Persia,
for the construction of towers. The people, in this
case, were massacred by the soldiers to supply these
heads, a price being fixed for them by order of Timour !

The amount of the spoils taken by the armies of this
conqueror almost exceeds the powers of the imagina-
tion. On returning from India, the soldiers were
loaded with diamonds and other precious stones. Each
had several slaves, some of whom were to^^'^^rccssij^^^^.

222 A aBEAT FEAST.

Yet, it would appear that Tamerlane was not all
savage. He had great pleasure in seeing his army re-
creating themselves, afber the fatigues and sacrifices of
war. He took a lively interest in his generals, and re-
warded them with costly presents.

On the birth of a grandson, he made a great feast
at his capital of Samarcand, then the depository of the
spoils of his victories. Seats were erected which ex-
tended for six miles. The emperor was seated on a
gorgeous throne, a vast crowd of beautiful females,
covered with veils of gold brocade, sprinkled with
jewels, being on either side. There were luxuries from
various countries, the choicest wines of every climate,
and a gorgeous host of officers and soldiers, which ren-
dered the scene more like a dream than a reality.

Such scenes as these show that Timour had a taste
for magnificence, but it seems that the gratification of
his own pride and vanity, even in such cases, was his
ruling passion. It is sickening to the heart to read
the Hves of such men, who, in our more enlightened
age, appear rather like monsters than human beings .

CHAPTEE XXIX.

I set out for Bokhara. — Independent Tartary, or Tnrkistan. — Its
Divisions and Tribes. — Description of the Country between
Samarcand and Bokhara. — Huts. — The Golden River. — Arrival
at Bokhara. — Bustle of the City.— Dreary Feelings. — Take
Lodgings in a Caravansera. — I am beset with Idlers. — Attack of
a Water-Melon. — A general Hubbub. — I beat a Retreat. —
Splendid Quarters. — A Man-trap and a Tumble.

Having remained several weeks at Samarcand, I set out

on horseback for Bokhara, capital of the kingdom of

Khareson, which 1 have meutioii^, and still a famous

INDEPENDENT TAETAET, OB TUEKISTAN. 223

city lying about a hundred and fifteen miles south-
westerly of Samarcand.

Before I proceed in the story of my adventures, it
may be well to give a more exact idea of this region.
Independent Tartary is called by the people who in-
habit it, Turkisian, which means the country of the
Turks. It is, in fact, the birth-place of the Turks or
Ottomans, who had their origin here some centuries
since.

Turkistan, at the present day, includes several inde-
pendent states, called Khanats, because their rulers or
chiefs are denominated Khans, These are as follows,
being arranged in the order of their importance : 1.
Khanat of Bokhara. 2. Khanat of Khiva. 3. Khanat
of Koondooz. 4. Khanat of Khokan. Beside these,
there is Kafaristan, or land of the Kafirs, and the
country of the Kirguiz. The population of all these
states is supposed to be about seven milHons. We
know so Httle about those countries, however, that the
number of inhabitants may be considerably more or
less.

These regions contain small distinct tribes of Turks
or Tartars, who, however, bear a general resemblance to
each other in appearance, manners, and customs. Mixed
with these, are Jews, Persians, Armenians, and others.
The prevailing religion is Mahomedism. The modes
of living are various : some of the people dwelling in
cities, and carrying on trade and manufactures ; others
dwelling in the country, and rearing cattle ; and others
still, living by plunder and rapine.

The country around Samarcand is hilly, but in pro-
ceeding towards the city of Bokhara, we soon came to
a region consisting of barren plains, here and there
masked by sand-heaps, in the form. c>C ^ Wcs»<i-'i^<

22:1 THE GOLDEK BIYEB.

this shape being given by the wind, which thus deposits

the sand around low mounds of clay which constitute

a portion of the soil. We crossed wide spaces entirely

without vegetation, except patches of low brushwood

and a few dried and stunted herbs, mixed with the

camel-thorn. Here and there a rat, which, by the way,

looked very much like his American namesake — small

lizards, and some solitary bird of a species imknown to

me, were the only creatures that seemed to inhabit

these solitary wastes. Yet, even here, we frequently

met with the ruins of cities which once existed, but

which have passed away and been forgotten by history.

As we proceeded, we could see to the south a range

of low mountains, and finally, as we turned to the

north, we came to a valley, which we were told was

watered by the river Zer-af-chan, or Golden river. We

did not, however, reach the stream, as it runs to the

right of Bokhara some six or seven miles. The coimtry

now assumed a very different aspect, being in the

highest degree fruitful, and in some parts cultivated.

We passed several villages, and now the country seemed

to be pretty thickly peopled. The greater part of the

inhabitants were living in low houses constructed of

earth mixed with withes of willow, and sometimes sup-

ported by posts. We often met with groups of black

tents occupied by people who roamed from plain to

plain with droves of horses, camels, homed cattle, and

goats.

At last, after three days' travel, we came in sight of
the city. Viewed from a small eminence, the place is
very imposing. It is eight miles in circuit, and is sur-
rounded by a triangular wall of earth twenty feet high,
pierced by twelve gates of brick masonry. The country
around is flat but*xic\i, aa^ ^^v» cjA.^ vb» ^q cttibQwered in

BITBTLB OF BOKHJLBJu 225.

trees, as to give it a charming appearance. The great
mass of low mud edifices are not seen, but the public
edifices, towers, and mosques rise here and there aboTe
the foliage, leading the beholder to imagine that he is
about to enter a vast and magnificent ciby. But as
he reaches the interior of the place, this illusion
vanishes.

Most of the streets are indeed so narrow that a
loaded camel blocks them up entirely. In some of
them, two or three persons can hardly pass at a time.
They are also odiously dirty. By far the largest part
of the houses are of one low story ; they are built of
Sim-dried bricks laid on a rude frame-work of wood.
The roofs are all flat : toward the street they present
bare walls without windows. Only one house in the
city, so far as I saw, had glass. The holes for windows
are defended by lattices, which are opened or closed ac-
cording to necessity.

When I got into the heart of the city, I found my-
self rubbed and pushed and jostled about by loaded
camels, horses, and asses going along the narrow streets,
as if I had been nobody at all. ** Ah, ah !" said I to
myself, " you don't know that Gilbert Go-ahead has
come.'* It was very dear that the city of Bokhara
had no idea of what had happened. In truth, it is al-
ways rather dampening to one's self-love, to enter into
a great city where you are a total stranger, and where
you soon perceive that you are only one of ten or twenty
thousand persons, all as important to themselves as you
are to yourself. A man who travels finds out that
there are too many people in the world to justify that
swelling self-conceit which would make one feel as if
he was a very essential spoke in the wheel of all
creation.

226 LODan^as or a oASiLYAirsEBA.

On entering Bokhara, I felt as I have often done
before in similar circumstances, that is, rather dull,
and half home-sick. In this strange place I could not
but feel the force of that dismal ditty —

''I care for nobody, and nobody cares for me."

I have generally found a good dinner to be the best
remedy for this complaint, and therefore, as soon as
possible, I got to my lodgings, and made an excellent
meal upon a sort of mutton chop, tea, and plenty of
fruit.

My lodgings consisted of a single room in one of the
caravanseras, of which there are about forty in the
town. Some of them belong to the khan, and others
to private individuals. They consist of low rectangular
buildings, mostly two stories high, inclosing a square
court. Many of them extend to three hundred feet
on each of the four sides. The entrance is by a general
gateway into the court. The lower story is occupied
wholly for merchandise, and a very busy scene of trade
is displayed in the court, and at the doors of the several
stores and magazines. The upper rooms are used as
lodgings. There is no look-out but into the court.

I soon found myself overrun with a set of idlers,
who came to tell me the news, ask questions, and offer
their services. It was well enough for a time, but I
soon found it very tediou^, so I turned them all out and
shut my door. This, it seems, was contrary to Tartar
politeness, and when I went out, I found myself the
object of an intense and hostile excitement. At last
about fifty persons were gathered in the court near my
quarters, and, as I descended the stairs, they thronged
around and ei^circled me, making a great hubbub, and
^lireatening me withi vio\eii\> ^e^Wc^.

ATTACK 07 A WATEB-MELOK. 227

I, however, went straight ahead, and as I was a foot
taller than any one among them, and, moreover, seemed
pretty cool, they opened a space before me, and I got
into the street. The crowd, however, formed at my
heels, and followed me for a considerable distance. I
did not look behind, but I heard the clatter of the
rabble close upon me. At last, I felt something come
smash against my back. Turning quickly round, I
perceived that one of the mob had thrown at me a
small water-melon, which took effect between my
shoulders, and was running down my back in a juicy
shower.

I picked out the fellow who had thrown this, by his
attitude, and rushing suddenly upon him, I seized him
by the throat, drew him to the spot, where the wreck
of the melon lay, and while he grew black and blue
with my clutch, I bathed his face in the fragments of
the melon, taking care to make it go a little rough
over his nose. I then gave him a jerk, and sent him
spinning across the street. The fellow hallooed like a
fox-hound, and soon the whole street was alive with
people. Chancing to look up, I saw that some were
gazing over the battlements of the roofs, and through
the openings in the walls of the houses. Half re-
vealed, through the lattices, I noticed the turbaned
heads of many women. There was now a general
hubbub in the streets, and I thought it time to beat a
retreat.

Just as I was looking around to see which way to go,
a narrow door in the wall close by was opened, and
without a moment's reflection in I went. I ran along
a passage, and soon came to a court shaded with trees,
the floor being paved with variegated marble. In
the centre a fountain was playing, «2CidL ^csv^si^ ^^Si ^

q2

228 8FL£in)II> QTTABTEBS.

group of women. These screatned and fled. Having a
very good opinion of women in general, and these
being very good-looking, I followed close at their heels
all the way, begging their protection. They, how-
ever, had no idea of listening to me. They flew up the
stairs which led to a gallery extending around the
court, and disappeared.

I expected the crowd to burst into the place, but it
seems they had not seen me enter the door, and they
were therefore thrown off the scent. I had time to
look aroimd me. The place I had got into, was evi-
dently the house of some very rich person. The court
was enclosed by high walls of wood, richly carved and
gaudily painted. The fountain was covered by a pavi-
lion, beauti&lly executed, in a manner which reminded
me of what I had seen in pictures of Arabian ^chi-
tecture.

"Well," said I to myself, "I'm always in luck,
good or bad. A moment ago I was threatened with
speedy annihilation by a mob ; now I am a guest of one
of the richest citizens of Bokhara." This traia of
thoi:^ht was, however, soon cut short, for in a few
moments a man came into the court, who, as soon as he
set his eyes upon me, seemed smitten with horror. I
bowed in the Eastern fashion, and looked very polite
and smiling, but he waved me back, and shrunk from
me as if I had been an alligator. He then went to a
comer of the court and struck a gong, which sounded
like forty swarms of bees, and made the whole place
ring with its echoes. In a moment half-a-dozen men
came in, and rushing at me, attempted to seize me.

Instead of yielding to fate, I sprang up the stairs^
and ran along the gallery, but hotly pursued. Coming
to a door, I popped v^ «D&.fl^^ ^tl^ a» dark corridor

▲ HAir-TBAP Aim A TTTIIBLE. 229

which opened before me. As I was proceeding, the
floor suddenly fell from beneath my feet, and I was
pitched down headlong into a dungeon.

For a moment I was stunned, for I had fallen at
least ten feet, and had been received by the hard
ground. When I recovered my faculties I perceived
that the place was dark as pitch. Indeed, not a ray
of light was visible. I groped about with my hands
and feet, and soon took the measure of my apartments
which was some dozen feet square. It was without a
single article of furniture, except a piece of earthen-
ware, which seemed to be a broken vase or pitcher.

" WeU," thought I, « this is " but it is too

long a story to tell in this chapter.

CHAPTER XXX.

A Distaressing Situation. — ^I am sapposed to be dead, and hear
TariouB Opinions of my Person and Character. — ^lam taken away
to be buried. — Romantic Incidents. — I refuse to be buried, and
frighten the Sextons. — ^A Plot and an Escape. — People who never
h^trd of Franklin Pierce or the Bible. — ^Priests who do Religion
for the People.

I HAVE but a confused recollection of what happened
to me for several hours after my plunge into the dim-
geon. My fall was so sudden and the shock so severe
as to upset my understanding. I only recollect that I
groped about in the darkness, and came to the conclu-
sion that I was alone, and completely imprisoned. I
shrieked aloud — I ran from one side of the room to the
other — I felt along the walls — I crawled over the fl6or
• — and then, gradually a sickness came over me, and I
fainted away.

How long it was I cannot teU^bxkt «&» ^^Qas!£^\:

230 I AM SrPPOSED TO BE DEAD, Aim

awoke, and saw a light streaming throngli the crevice
of a door into my room. I sat up and began to gather
my senses. I heard voices, and then I recollected
what had happened, and where I was. I listened, and
heard two men talking about me.

" Oh, he is dead," said one — " I went, in an hour
ago, and he was as stiff as a dried crocodile."

" Well, well," said the other — " then we have nothing
to do but to put him into the canal, with a stone about
his neck."

" Exactly, but what a supper he will make for the
fishes ! Why he is nearly twice as large as any of us."

" So much the worse, for he'll be a heavy load for
two of us."

*^ Oh, never fear, though he's long, he is as lean as a
rake handle. Are you ready ?"

« Wait a minute !"

By the time the conversation had reached this point,
I had made up my mind what to do. I determined to
pretend to be dead, and then let these amiable sextons
take me out of prison : for the rest, I would trust to
circumstances. So I stretched myself at full length on
the ground, and lay stiff and stark as a thanksgiving
pig just out of the oven. The fellows soon came in,
and holding their lamp close to me, took a survey of
my person. It is very rare that people hear their own
funeral orations, but on this occasion I had the satis-
faction of listening to mine.

" What a long, lank-looking, cut-throat of a fellow
he is," said one of the coroners. ^* He must have been

a desperate scamp !"

" Yes, yes," was the reply. " He is evidently a Tur-
coman. I don't wonder that the sultana and her
women were frightened to see him enter the harem.

HEAB YABIOrS OPINIONS OF HYSELT. 231

Allah ! How the Ehan raved and tore his heard when
he heard of it."

'^ No douht : the E[han don't like to have any man
even set eyes on his women, and there he is right. But
I don't helieve this fellow is a Turcoman. On the con-
trary, I think he is an AfPghan."

" An Ai^hanP an A%han? why do you think so?"

'' He has just the make of an Affghan : the lank,
long limhs ; hands like eagle's claws ; a hooked nose,
like the heak of a vulture, and a spreading wehbed foot.
I could swear by that, he was bom within sight of the
Koosh mountains."

" Then perhaps he was one of our countrymen ?"

" I could take my oath of it."

" And we, poor slaves that we are, must tumble his
body into the water hke a sack of dirt."

" Must ! Why must we ?"

'^ Because if we refuse, we shall take his place, and go
into the canal ourselves."

" That does not follow as a matter of course ; to tell
you the truth, Nasik, I'm tired of this slavery, and if
you had a little courage we might escape."

"Escape! How?"

" We have a commission to take this body to the
suburbs : let us take it — ^and when we are there, we can
see what our long legs can do."

" Agreed — ^with a slight change of your plan."

"How?"

" Let us take another with us;"

" Who ?"

"Vathine."

" Your sister — is she in Bokhara P'*

" She is here."

" And a slave ? Beard of Mohammed — I

232 BOMAiimo nrciDBKTS.

much ! She is a slave here in the palace ! I thought
I recognised her gazelle eyes. It was she that grazed
at me through her screen and waved her hand to me !
What a donkey I was not to recognise Vathine. How
did it happen that she came here ?"

''Oh, as such things always happen. A troop oi
Turcomans swept down from the mountains upon our
poor hamlet one moonlight night. I was away — ^you
were away. What could our old decrepit father do ?
What could women do ? They could only wail. Will
the Turcoman desist from his plunder because his
victim screams ? Will the hawk for^o his meal be-
cause the dove bleeds and trembles in his grasp P No,
no ! Vathine was too fair a prize to be released. With
a troop of other slaves captured by the robbers in their
foray, she was brought to Bokhara, and sold to a mer-
chant who supplied the harem of the Khan."

"And when did she come hither ?"

" A month since.'*

" Alla-il-Alla ! Where is she now ?"

" In the pavilion of the outer garden."

" Well — and how shall we proceed ?"

" We will have her come into the garden : we will
then put her in the place of this corpse — wrapping her
up well. Thus we can pass out, for the guards will be
deceived, and will not stop us. We shall be outside of
the walls by ten o'clock, and our escape will not be dis-
covered till morning. So we shall have twelve hours
the start of our pursuers."

"Q-ood! let us proceed at once. Eeally, Nasik, I

thought you a stupified dunce. It seemed to me that

your soul was bent to slavery, and that you never

thought of home — of Cabool — of our native hills — of

jrourparents-— of Vathine — ^the beautiful Vathine — ^your

I AM TAKSN TO BE BTTBIE]). 233

sister ! I thought you a coward — stooping to the load
laid by tyrants upon your back, while out of simple fear
of the lash you quietly submitted. Oh, I now find your
heart heroic — ^true to its birth at the foot of mountains
that touch the skies, and bring down waters to the
valley which have been tinged with the light of angels*
wings. Alla-il-alla ! Let us go!"

The two men now made their preparations, and as
they bent down to take me up, I rendered myself
as rigid as if I had been magnetized. With some
tugging and grunting they got me upon their shoulders,
and carried me through a door and a long dark passage,
till we came to the open air. I was very near sneezing,
and in the effort to prevent it I slightly contracted one
of my legs. " Beard of Mahomet V ' said the fellow who
had the nether end of me, " if I didn't know this man
was dead, I should say he gave me a kick ! But, dead
or alive, I hope we shall soon be done with him, for he's
as heavy as a camel. I should think his bones were
made of iron!"

We were proceeding across the garden, entirely sur-
rounded by darkness, when my carriers paused to take
breath. They tumbled me upon the ground rather un-
civilly, but I was playing the dead man, and so I did
not consider it as belonging to my part to resent it.
The men now held some conversation, which I did not
distinctly hear, as my head was jammed in between
some shrubs, which, by the smell, I took to be Persian
lilacs. Afber a time I heard one of them say, dis-
tinctly —

" It is an excellent plan. We will bury the body
beneath yonder heap of stone and earth, and it will be
some days before they find it out. We can bundle up
Yathine as the corpse, and pass out all th^ «»qsss& "

234 I VRiawrss thb sextons.

" Excellent, excellent," was the reply. According to
this arrangement I was carried near the wall of the
garden, and laid down preparatory to my burial. Having
no desire to undergo this process I quietly rose, first on
my feet, and then I stood upright !

Had the two men been suddenly frozen into icicles,
they could not have been more completely riveted to
the earth on which they stood. It was too dark to
study their physiognomy, but I easily guessed their
aspect of horror at seeing a man, and a pretty tail one,
thus suddenly raise himself from the dead.

After a very short pause, I said — ^^ Whist, I am your
friend; I know your plans, and will assist them. Let
us go together!"

" Who are you F What are you ?" stammered one of
the men.

" A prisoner — a slave, like yourselves. Do not stop
to parley. Let us proceed ! Bring Yathine hither at
once, and prepare her for the expedition."

After some explanation, Nasik went, and in half an
hour he came back with his sister. She was nearly
dead with fright, and it was a long time before she
could be persuaded to perform the part assigned her.
Almost perforce she was at last laid out, and by the aid
of a Httle straw stuffing, and splicing, she was made
into a very portly corpse. We all three took her up ;
and staggering under our load as if it were very heavy,
we passed through the outer garden, and came to the
gate. Here a difficulty arose, for the guard had only
been ordered to let two men pass with the body. I
very easily settled the matter, however, by slipping two
dollars into the fellow's palm, as he held it at his back
— a motion which is very common here, by the way,
and 18 as easily understood in a public officer to

IlS xscapb. 235

mean bribery, as a dog's wagging his tail and looking
you in the face means that he would like something
to eat.

It was now near midnight, and not only the city
but the suburbs were wrapped in a silence as profoimd
as the darkness. As soon as we got well clear of the
city walls, Yathine was taken out of her straw co£Bn,
and restored to life. We now proceeded at a quick
pace, but in silence. The two men seemed to under-
stand the route, and before the sim rose we were at
least fifteen miles from Bokhara.

It was deemed prudent to lay-by during the day,
and so we concealed ourselves in a clump of trees
which had grown up amid the ruins of some buildings.
Nasik ventured out, however, and brought us some
dried goat's flesh, with bread made of beans and rye,
pounded together. I had now time to make inquiries,
and to tell my story in return. I found both the
Affghans quite intelligent as to affairs in this quarter
of the world where we now were. When I told them
I was an American, they seemed delighted, and told me
that from the first they knew I was of their own blood
and lineage. When I asked them where they supposed
America was, they both spoke at once, and told me it
was a mountain country on the southern slope of the
Hindoo Koosh mountains, and that it actually belonged
to Cabool, or Affghanistan, though the chief of the
district claimed to be independent !

It may readily he supposed that I felt not only
mortified, but offended, to discove^r that the name and
fame of the United States had never reached these
regions. It was a little too much to have it supposed
that I belonged to a mere *' patch " of earth up in the
mountains^ over which some barbariaa c\:d&€ ^t&^^S&^^

236 PEOPLE WHO ItrSTSB HEAIED OE THE BIBLB.

dominion. I held my tongue between my teeth for
some time, but at last I gave vent to my feelings.

" Gentlemen," said I, " at what college did you
graduate?" and I said this, because when I find any
body ignorant of geography, I calculate they've been
to college.

They both gazed at me in wonder, but said not a
word. " Gentlemen," I added, " do you mean to say
that you never heard of the stars and stripes ?"

They shook their heads.

" Do you mean to say you never heard of George
Washington?"

A shake of the head.

" Nor of Bunker Hill ?"

A shake.

" Nor of Zachary Taylor, nor Buena Vista ?"

A shake.

" Nor of Winfield Scott, nor Churubusco, nor the
Halls of Montezuma ?"

An emphatic shake.

" Nor of Franklin Pierce ?"

" He's mad 1" said Nasik to his friends.

" No, no — I'm not mad," said I, emphatically. " It
is hard work to turn the head of a Yankee. His brains
are as true as the cog-wheel of a brass clock. He's
like a catamount — ^he takes big leaps now and then, but
he always comes down on his feet. The difficulty lies
in your ignorance. I see how it is. You never went
to school : you never studied Parley's Geography: you
don't take the newspapers. Just tell me, did you ever
see Webster's Spelling Book ?"

"Never!"

" I thought so. Did you ever see the Bible ?"

'' We never heard oi \V'

BELiaiOK BT FBOXT. 237

" Did you ever see a Connecticut clock ?"

"Never."

" That's enough," ssdd I, ** that's enough ! What can
he expected of men who never heard of the stars and
stripes, George Washington, Bunker Hill, Old Zack,
Franklin Pierce, the Bihle, or a Connecticut clock!
Poor benighted heathen, that you are ! Nevertheless,
we wont quarrel. You have all the faculties of men,
no doubt, and serve Gt>d after your fashion. Pray
what is your religion ?"

" We are Mahometans."

" You believe in the Koran."

" No, we don't believe it : that is not our business.
The priests believe it for us."

" So, so. * Do the priests eat for you ? Do they
drink for you ? Do they sleep for you ?"

" No ; in all worldly matters, we act for ourselves ;
as to religion, we can't "be expected to understand it.
It is written in books which we cannot read ; so the
priests do our religion for us."

" That's very convenient ; how do you pay them ?"

" Oh, we give them alms ; build temples for them ;
pay them reverence ; furnish them with monasteries ;
pay them roundly for the sins we commit ; give them
the tenth part of all we produce or gain."

" They have a nice time, no doubt."

" Certainly, and why not ? They are the ambassa-
dors of the Prophet, to whom heaven and earth belong.
He commands all nations to give to the priests, and in
thi8> he only requires that to be given which is his."

" Exactly ; and you ought to be thankM that the
priests only take tithes, whenthey might take thewhole."

Here the conversation took another turn, and what
followed will require another cha^W.

238 WE FBOCEED ON OJTB, JOTJBNEY.

CHAPTER XXXI.

We proceed on our Jonmey. — The Two AffghaTiB. — ^TheEyeof God,

or tiie Story of Moroz.

The next night we continued our travels, with great
caution, however, for we still feared pursuit. A good
deal of the time we were obliged to lie by in thickets,
or amid the deserted ruins which were not unfrequent
along our route. In the intervals of rest and conceal-'
ment, I had a good deal of conversation with my male
companions — ^Vathine being always kept aloof, and
never speaking to me. Occasionally I could see a
glimpse of one or both of her eyes &om beneath her
veil, but this had always the appearance of accident,
and not of design.

They were rather intelligent yoimg men, and had
not only been over the greater part of Afghanistan,
but into the adjacent coimtries of Northern India, Be-
loochistan, and Persia. One of them had been to Mecca
with a caravan, which was alike a religious and trading
enterprise. He started firom Cabool, and passed through
Herat, Teheran, and Damascus, and thence across the
Arabian Desert to the Holy City of the Mahometans.
He was a good story-teller, and gave a very lively
account of his travels. He related a great many inci-
dents and episodes, and among other things he told us
the following tale, which he said he heard from the lips
of a Persian poet, who related it one night to the com-
pany of the caravan.

" A great many years ago, there lived and reigned in

Cashmere, a race of princes, each of whom was called

the JEye of God — a profane title, certainly, but which

seemed justified, in some degree, by the crown they

wore — for this was omameii^ted. mt\i the most superb

THB STOBT OP HOBOZ. 239

diamond that ever was seen. It was said to have been
brought by the Angel Gabriel himself, to the founders
of the little kingdom, in token of the affection of the
Prophet, and as an assurance of the favour of Heaven.
The king caused it to be set in his crown, and with this
it descended from father to son for a long series of
generations. The diamond was not only one of the
finest water, but it was of that deep and pure nature
indicative of the highest order of precious stones, for
while it was rather pale and dull in the light, it shone
with intense and burning rays in the dark. Nor was
this all : it had the faculty of filling the eye, and also,
if steadily contemplated, of illuminating the mind. And
hence, while it adorned the brows of the princes of
Cashmere, it shed light, knowledge, and wisdom upon
their imderstandings. It was indeed regarded as a
talisman of great sanctity, and came at last to be al-
tnost worshipped by the people. When the king ap-
|>eared in public with it on his head, they all fell on
their faces, and remained prostrate till he had passed by.
No wonder that such a gem should be called the Eye
of God, and that at last this title should descend to the
princes who wore it.

" Now in the city of Cashmere, there was a yoimg
man named Moroz, of great learning and genius, but
he was very poor. His heart was filled with ambition
and love of pleasure, but his poverty prevented the
indulgence of his propensities. By degrees he gave
himself up to evil thoughts, and began to despise man-
kind, religion, and all good and holy things. He said
to himself; 'After all, life is only a game, and they
who play it best are the best fellows. Eight is only
might ; religion is the bugbear of the priests ; they do
not believe it themselves. Oh I ii \'SRet^Tv<;2»a.^^^>^ii^

240 THE BYE OE GOD, OBr

have all the pleasures of life, and as to death, I should
have no fear of that !'

"While he thus conversed with himself the king
came along, with the crown on his head. All the people
prostrated themselves except Moroz : he stood erect,
and gazed steadily at the sacred diamond. A sudden
but dreadful thought came into his mind. * If I could
only become the possessor of that gem !' said he to
himself, ' I could carry it to Delhi, and sell it to the
Great Mogul for a million of dollars. Then I should
be rich — then my heart would be fuU of pleasure and
happiness !' After a short time he went away, but firom
that day a new being animated him. He shut himself
up in his room, and thought only of the sacred diamond;
The more he dwelt upon it, the more intense became
his desire to possess it. At last he determined to make
the attempt to obtain it. He had no scruples of con«
science, for he did not believe in religion ; he laughed
at the idea of a future state, of heaven and hell, and
hence he had no respect for right or wrong.

" It is true the idea crossed his mind that this gem
was said to be sacred, and to have gifts above other
gems. Once or twice he said to himself, 'What if,
after all, it should turn out that this diamond really is
like the Eye of God, and can see into the soul P K I
possessed it, should I not be miserable afber all P' He
soon, however, dismissed such reflections, and laughed
at his fears as the miserable dreams of cowardice. ' Let
me cast aside such weakness,' said he to himself; 'let
me dare to be a man, and then I may realize the full
pleasures of existence. Let me remain a coward, and I
only remain a slave, and wear out my ]i£d in the miseries
of slavery J
*^ Alter a time lie ^m i\]i&:j x«M3kh^ and now th«

THE SIOBY OF MOBOZ. 241

only question was How he should get possession of the
gem ? In order to accomplish his object, he contrived
to obtain a place in the king's household, and thus he
was duly admitted to the palace. He had a small
cabinet assigned him near the king's bed-chamber, and
thus he was able to carry on his schemes. When every
body was asleep, he took the crown to his cabinet and
miade a cast of the diamond. Being a skilful chemist
and worker in gems and metals, he made au exact
imitation of it in glass. This he set in the place of the
true gem, one night, and with the latter in his pocket,
he secretly left the palace, and quitted Cashmere.

'' He bent his steps towards Delhi, which was then
the capital of India, and the most brilliant city in the
world. The king, called the Great Mogul, was chief of
the whole empire, and his riches knew no bounds. His
palace glittered with gold, and his whole person was
radiant with the most costly jewels. His gardens were
filled with fragrant plants and delicious fruits. At
night they shone with the light of ten thousand lamps,
and the whole air trembled with entranciag music.
The palace itself, filled with gay and happy people,
seemed but a Paradise of pleasure, from morning to
night. Princes and princesses — the young, the rich,
the noble — ^all gathered there, seemed only to live for
enjoyment.

" * Let me get to Delhi,' said Moroz to himself, * and
I shall be happy ! The king will be ready enough to
possess himself of the finest gem the world has ever
known, and one who thus gratifies him, will not only
be made rich, but will be created a prince of his court,
at least.'

« So thought the young man, and with his heart
boimding in triumph, he pursued \n& y^xoxi^^ ^^^^^^^ ^

242 THE £YE OF GK)D, OB

towards Delhi. He was, however, under the necessity
of travelling only by night, for he knew that the cheat
he had practised would soon be discovered, and that
he was likely to be pursued. The sense of danger
gradually grew upon him, and hence he became watch^
and suspicious. A whole week passed before he could
feel so secure as to take a look at his prize. But one night
as he lay hidden in the shadow of an old temple, he
took the gem from his pocket, unrolled the numerous
folds of cloth with which it was covered, and gazed
upon it. How beautiful — ^how wonderful was the light
that streamed from its innermost depths — even in the
darkness ! How did the soul of Moroz expand as he
gazed upon it, and felt the consciousness that he was
its proprietor.

'' Although alone in the gloom of night, and amid
the ghastly ruins of some fallen and forgotten temple,
his whole being glowed with an intense delight.
Already he seemed to enjoy the pleasures for which he
had sighed, and to grasp the sceptre of power which he
yearned to wield. For a long time he was absorbed in
gazing upon the diamond, which constantly unfolded
new rays, and shed more delicious tints, till suddenly
its aspect changed, and it seemed to enlarge, grow
rpund, and assume the appearance of a human eye. Its
light became more and more intense, and ere long it
seemed to gaze into the very soul of the yoimg man,
with a stem and menacing look. Moroz shrunk back,
and for a moment he closed his eyes ; but ashamed of
what he deemed weakness, he opened them again, and
looked steadily at the diamond. Its aspect was now
even more stem than before, and Moroz starting up
exclaimed — * Horrible ! it is indeed the Eye of God ! '
'^ The young man aViook. ^vt\i Ihd excitement, and

THE STOBT OF MOBOZ. 243

although he rolled up the diamond and hid it deep in
his pocket, it was impossible wholly to recover his
peace of mind. When morning came, he shook off his
fears, in some degree, and at length laughed at them as
the phantoms of a dream. Still the diamond felt
heavy in his pocket, and seemed to become a burden to
him. He could not help thinking of it, and with a
kind of sinking of the heart. His feeling of triumph
was gone, and a strange anxiety took possession of his
bosom. As night approached, he grew timid and
afraid of the mere shadows that gathered around him.

" * This is dreadful ! ' said he, at last ; * and it will
drive me mad if I give way to it. I am playing the
part of a child — a woman. Let me be a man ! Is not
my secret my own ? Who knows, but me, that I have
this gem in my pocket ? And after all — what is it ?
A mere stone. Come, let me look at it again. It is
all nonsense to call it the JEye of Ood ! There is no
Grod ; or, if there be, it is money, and money is made
to be our slave, and not to make slaves of us. What a
fool I am ! Here I have unbounded riches in my grasp
— here is power, here are pleasures — all wrapped up in
this little ball. And I, so weak am I, that I am ready
to cast it into the river and rim away from it ; aU
because of a superstitious fancy that it is a God. A
God, indeed ! Let me have another look at it ! '

"It was night — Moroz was again alone. He un-
rolled the diamond as before; at first it only sent
forth its mild but lovely radiance, streaming out, as if
it were a fountain of many colours, from which issued a
perpetual rainbow. But gradually it expanded, and at
last — again it assumed that steady — searching look
which belongs to the All-Seeing — the All-Knowing.
Moroz gave back glance for glance — ^a^e {oT^i&a&« IBLsv

^2

i

24i4 THE EYE OF GK)I), OB

braced himself to a desperate effort ; he said, again and
again : ' It is but a stone — it is only a diamond. Let
me not make myself the dupe of my own excited
imagination ! '

^' By these means the young mau was able, in some
degree, to command his nerves. After a time, he
rolled up the gem, and felt that he had conquered ; but
he was mistaken. His strength of mind was gone ; he
had lost confidence in his own reasoning and in himself.
The gaze of the Eye of God, whether it was a phantom
of his own mind, or a reality, everywhere haunted him.
He felt constantly as if that dreadful look was upon
him. He knew that he was a thief; he was conscious
that he was bearing about on his person the fruit of a
sacrilegious robbery. In vain he said to himself
* Nobody knows it but me ! ' He knew it, and that
was too much. Ah, it was terrible, and Moroz at last,
in the agony of his mind, exclaimed, ' It is indeed true ;
there is a God ; and, though this is but a stone, yet it
has the power of revealing God to man, and man to
himself. Hideous sight ! I see, by the light of this
miracle, the sentence written on my soul, * Thou art a
thief!* A thief? What pleasure is left for me, thus
adjudged guilty of the meanest of crimes — and that
too by my own conscience. Would to heaven I had
remained content in my poverty. But, what shall I
do P Let me hasten to Delhi, and disburthen myself
as soon as possible of this terrible treasure.

'^ Agitated with these and similar thoughts, Moroz
made his way, after a journey of five weeks, to the
gorgeous capital of the Great Mogul. But he was so
worn out with anxiety that he could not look upon the
irondrous curiosities of the place. Afi^d of being
detected as the robbec cf t\i<& ^s'^^ai ^m^for already

THE STOBY OF HOBOZ. 245

the news pf the thefb had spread over Hindostan, he
glunk into a dark and narrow garret in the outskirts of
the city, and meditated upon the means of parting
with his prize to the emperor. But now difficulties,
not foreseen, beset him. * How,' said he to himself, —
^ how shall I appear as the seller of this diamond, and
avoid being seized as a thief P '

" That was indeed a very important question, and it
was strange that the acute Moroz had not thought of
it before. He debated the matter for a long time, \mtil
he had worked himself up into a state bordering on
madness. At last, he gave up the idea of selling his
treasure in Delhi, and departed for Persia, intending to
dispose of it to the Shah, who was then famed for hi^
riches. Arrived at Shiraz, he was seized with the same
fear which had beset him at Delhi, and so he hastened
on to Bagdad — intending to offer his treasure to the
Caliph — ^then one of the most splendid sovereigns in
the world. Here he was racked with apprehensions
similar to those he had felt before, and so he proceeded
to Constantinople, hoping in that capital to find him*
self beyond the reach of the rumours of his theft, which
pervaded all the other countries he had visited.

" In all these wanderings, he had spent at least a
dozen years ; and, though he was not yet old, his hair
was thin and grey, his body bent, and his aspect that
of a man smitten with despair. Indeed, every pulse
that had once beat with pleasure, was now tremulous
with care, anxiety, and dread. Conscious of possessing
the value of millions, he was still living in poverty —
often for weeks having hardly the necessities of life.
Convicted of crime in his own mind, he had i^ao n
dread lest every man that he met should reooj
him the mark of sin, and expose hixa. CS&OkilB^''

246 THE ETE OF GOD, OB

fruit of his theft with a sort of miser's greediness, he
still looked upon it with dread, and bore it about as a
burthen and a curse hanging to his very heart. He
was afraid of the day, because men then looked upon
him; he dreaded the darkness, for then Grod's eye
seemed gazing at him ; for now, even when the diamond
was wrapped up, — as soon as night set in, it shone out
and looked at him, in whatever place he might be.
Even when, in his agony, he put his hand over his
sight, the terrible vision, as of an Omniscient Eye,
burning into his very soul, was still before him. No
screen could exclude it — ^no reflection efface it : no en-
velope could conceal its radiance, or make him forget
its power for a moment.

" It was strange that such sufferings had not broken
the heart of the criminal, but though his frame was
shattered, it was full of painful vigour. His nerves
were quick, his perceptions keen, his vital energy great
as in his youth. Yet his existence was only turned to
agony. His last hope was gone ; for, on arriving at
Constantinople, he found that the robbery of the
famous gem of Cashmere was known, and that all the
officers of the police were on the alert to detect the
thief.

" * What now shall I do ?' said the miserable man.
* Shall I keep my treasure, and, when I die, let it pass
to my heirs ? I shall then have been a criminal and a
beggar only for the benefit of posterity. This is indeed
the usual fate of the miser, but it will not do for me.
Shall I cast this gem away, and fly from it as from a
curse ? Alas ! that will not wipe out my crime, even
if I could forego the pleasures I have hoped for long
jears to derive from it. What then shall I do ? Shall
I go back to Cashmere, Tea\.OTft xn^ ^binder, and thus

. THE STOBT OF MOBOZ. 247

atone for my crime ? What, go back to poverty ?
That I cannot do. Which way, then, shall I turn ?'

" When the wretched man had ended these reflections,
he was nigh starving, for he had lost all means of ob-
taining the necessaries of life. He was, in fact, in a
miserable shed, in one of the outer streets of Constan-
tinople, and there was not another person in the dwell-
ing. He was lying on a heap of dirty straw, from
which he found it impossible to rise. He felt that he
was dying, and called aloud for help, but no one
answered, except that three or four dogs, hungry
and lean, came into the room, and, after a while,
passed out, and set up a long, boding howl.

" Moroz saw that his last hour was come. With
feeble yet trembling fingers, he took out the roU from
his pocket, and began to unfold the diamond. He
wished to gaze upon it once more, even though he must
pay the usual penalty of feeling its light to scorch his
soul. He fainted several times before he could com-
plete his task. When the last fold was taken off, what
was his amazement to discover only a mass of sand, in
place of the sacred diamond ! Had he been robbed, or
was this a miracle p The fading senses of the poor
man could not solve the question. His pulse failed —
his eyes closed — and the wretched Moroz was no more.
But, that very day — that very hour — the real gem —
the Eye of God — ^was returned to its place in the Crown
of Cashmere!"

I

248 DXBCSIPTIOir OF BJlLKB..

CHAPTER XXXII.

Arrival at Balkh. — Description of that Place. — Abont Zinghis and
Kadir Shah. — I take leave of the Affghans. — Join a Gararran for
Persia. — Arrival at Herat. — Description of the City. — Trade. —
History. — Alexander the Conqueror. — Turquoises. — Great Cal-
culations. — Arrival at Meshed. — Description of the Place. —
Kishapoor. — I visit the Turquoise Mines. — Get badly Cheated. —
Interview with a Magistrate.

The young Affghan told many other stories, but I
have not time to repeat them. On the eleventh day
after onr departure from Bokhara, we arrived at Balkh,
the capital of a province of the same name. It is
situated in a plain, on the Balkh river, two hundred
and eighty miles south-east of Bokhara. It is now but
a shadow of what it was in its days of glory — then the
capital of the Bactrian kingdom, and bearing the title
of Bactra. It is also spoken of in ancient history under
the name of Zariaspa, The ruins of mosques, temples,
and other edifices, some still visible, and others only in-
dicated by heaps of sand and soil, extend over a circuit
of twenty miles around the city.

The history of this place has been indeed remarkable.
So far back as the time of Ninus and Semiramis, three
thousand years ago, it figpired in history. In the time
of Xerxes, Bactra was a province of Persia ; afterwards,
it yielded to the arms of Alexander of Macedon. Here
he founded a Greek colony, and built a city, and, in
twenty days, by the aid of his army, encircled it with
a wall. This was the beginning of the Greek Bactrian
kingdom, which flourished for a long period. In more
modern times, the city and province of Balkh have
been possessed by Zinghis, Aurungzebe, Nadir Shah,
and other Eastern conquerors. At present, it is sur-
rounded by a mud wall, and eoxLt^Aus about two thou-

JOIK A CABATAir POB PXBSIA. 249

sand inhabitants. It is governed by a chief, who re-
ceives all the revenues, but he is tributary to the Khan
of Bokhara.

At this place my Affghan friends took leave of me,
and I saw them no more. I was now under the neces-
sity of determining upon my future plans. By this
time, my stock of cash was reduced to one hundred and
twenty-seven dollars — a small sum for one who was
still a wanderer almost in the middle of Asia. After
considerable reflection, I determined to make my way
into Persia, and there decide as to my route home-
wards. I was influenced in this decision by finding at
Balkh a trading caravan on its march to Teheran, to
which I foimd no difficulty in attaching myself.

The caravan consisted of sixty persons, all mounted
on horses or camels. It was now spring, and the season
was very pleasant. Our route was westerly, and led us
over an uneven but not mountainous country. We
passed several villages, and met also with numerous
groups of people living in tents and surrounded with
flocks and herds, and appearing to be of nomadic
habits.

In five days we arrived at Herat, the chief town in
the province of Khorassan. It is the central market,
for the interior trade carried on between Cabool, Cash-
mere, Bokhara, HinJostan, and Northern Persia. It
consists now of a fortified town, only three-quarters of
a mile square. The walls are lofty, and are made of
unburnt bricks. It contains six thousand houses, and
perhaps forty-five thousand people. The smaller streets
are covered with filth, which fills the air with an in-
tolerable odour. The residence of the Prince is a low,
mean building, standing upon an open square, in the
centre of which is the gallows tti4thA<3Lt«iiib'\&saB»RiS

250 DESCEIPTIO»r OF HEKAT. TBADE.

The city is divided into four quarters by four bazaarfi,
consisting of arched brick-work, and each running from
one side of the town to the other, and being entered
by a gate at the wall. Here the collection of merchants
and traders, with their caravans and equipages, presents
a very animated and curious scene.

Though the city is on the whole crowded and dismal,
and parts of it insiifferably dirty, the suburbs are exten-
sive and beautiful. The river Herirood, on which
Herat stands, is made to send its waters through canals,
in all directions, and thus the gardens and grounds are
irrigated. The necessaries of life are cheap and abun-
dant ; the bread and water are famous ; the fruits are
various and delicious. I learnt that melons, somewhat
resembling our water-melons, as big as my head, could
be bought in the season of them for about two cents
a-piece. Strawberries and cherries were already in
market, though it was only the early part of spring.
Each could be bought for about two cents a quart.

The chief goods received here are shawls, indigo,
sugar, chintz, muslins, leather, and skins by way of
Tartary. These articles are exported to different parts
of Persia. Saffron and assafoetida are the staple pro-
ducts of Herat, and from this market they are distri-
buted over the adjacent countries. Silk is produced in
the vicinity. The skins of sheep and lambs are
abundant, and one hundred and fifty people are em-
ployed in making them into caps and cloaks, with the
wool on. The carpets of Herat are famous for their
brilliancy of colour, and for their luxurious softness.

This city, like most others in these regions, is of

great antiquity, and is renowned in history. In early

times this country was called Artay and Herat, the

eapitsdy bore the name o£ Artacoana, Alexander the

OBEAT CALCTTLATI017S. 251

Conqueror, visited this place, and seems to have been
much struck by the fertility of the country. In more
modem times Herat has experienced various changes.
In 1824 it suffered from wars that raged in that
country, and since that time it has been much inferior
to the ancient city in extent, population, and wealth.
Nothing of particular interest occurred to me hercy
except that I purchased some turquoises at a low price ;
and as I learned that these precious stones are almost
wholly produced from the mines and quarries near
Nishapoor, I determined to visit that place, and see if I
could not make a speculation to reward me for my bad
success in the clock line, and the various misadventures
which had been the result of my failures.

My mind soon became interested in this matter, and,
as usual, my imagination was filled with schemes, and
then conjecture as to possible or probable success.
"What after all,*' said I to myself, "if I should turn
out a rich man? G-reater wonders have happened.
Didn't Lord Timothy Dexter make his fortune out of
warming-pans sent to a tropical country ; and why
shouldn't Gilbert Go-ahead, in spite of his thriftless
travels, have some luck at last ? Let us see — suppose
I buy a hundred ounces of turquoises for a hundred
dollars : I can get a hundred dollars an ounce for them
in New York ! There is a clear profit of nine thousand
nine hundred dollars ! That would do, at Sandy Plain,
for a moderate man like me; one who has dined on
rats, and been rejoiced at the hind leg of a monkey !
Good — ^this is a promising business, and I will at least
look into it. It's a long lane that never turns. It's a
dry stick that wont give sap in the fire. Perhaps my
day of good luck has come. I'll atieast put a venture
into this lottery." <* JAf^gj^^ -

252 DESOBIPXIOK or meshed — NI8HAF00B.

After a stay of two days at Herat, we departed, and
soon arrived at Meshed, a sort of holy city in this part
of the world. It contains the remains of the famous
Caliph Haroun al Baschid, and also of the celebrated
Im^m Beza. The mausolemn of the latter is still an
object of great interest, on account of its richness and
beauty of architecture. It has gates of silver, and its
doors are studded with jewels. It once had railings of
gold, but these were taken away by ravaging con-
querors. With its glittering domes and minarets, and
its handsome arcades, it is one of the most interesting
curiosities I have ever beheld. No Christian or Jew is
permitted to visit it. The houses of the city are low
and mean, being built of sun-dried bricks. The popula-
tion is about fifty thousand. The place has some trade,
but it has all the appearance of a decayed and decaying
town. A good many turquoises are sent here, and sold to
pilgrims passing on to Mecca or returning thence. From
this place Nishapoor lies in a south-westerly direction,
at the distance of forty-six miles. In a day and a half
we reached it. We found it to be a wretched-looking
town, of low, mean dwellings, crowded into a small
space, encircled by a ditch and mud- wall. Nearly half of
the interior of the town is encumbered with ruins.

I was much disappointed to find that the mines were
at a distance of forty miles from Nishapoor. However,
I determined to visit them, and therefore parted from
the caravan, and set out on horseback with three mer-
chants, one Hindoo, one Bokharan, and one Mesopota-
mian, all going to buy turquoises, like myself. Our
route was south-westerly. The country over which we
passed seemed naturally fertile, and the people showed
tolerable skill in agriculture. Irrigation was general
and well managed, cousvdeimg t\i<& T^de and unim-

I TISIT THE TrSQTTOISE MUTES. 253

proved state of every kind of domestic art. But at
least three-fourths of the arahle land lay in a fallow
state, it being the custom to till it only once in five
years ; the rest of the time is allowed for it to recruit.

In a day and a half we arrived at the mines. These
are some eight or ten in number, situated in small hills.
They are only wrought by the neighbouring villagers,
who use no machinery, but dig into the rocks with
picks, drills, and chisels, in the most clumsy manner.
The gems are found in a reddish brown argillaceous
rock, as well as in rocks of quartz of a whitish-grey
colour. The mines belong to the government, but are
rented to a chief for the annual sum of two thousand
tomoms. The villagers have one-fourth of what they
find.

I very soon discovered that all my plans of specula-
tion were entirely at fault. The fact is, that the work-
men here are the greatest cheats I ever met with. They
ask an extravagant price for the turquoises, and do not
hesitate to pass off bits of bluish glass, manuDsu^tured for
the purpose, upon those who are ignorant or not on their
guard. I was taken in by a fellow in this way, who got
from me twenty-seven dollars for a handful of glass,
having greatly the i^pearance of two gems. In fact,
they were handsomer than real ones, for they were of a
very intense blue. When I found out the cheat, I went
to a magistrate, and had the man brought up for trial.
When I told my story, both the judge and the criminal
laughed in my face. " Is that all ?" said the former.
"Why, selling glass for turquoises is an established
trade here : the faidt in your case is, that, not being a
merchant, you have entered into commerce. I dismiss
the man you have summoned hither, and condemn you
to pay the costs of the court."

254 OrXEBYIEW WITH A MAGIBTBATE.

" And how much are they ?" said I.

" Sixby-two and a half cents," said his worship.

I gave him a dollar, and he was preparing to give me
the change. " Never mind the change,'* said I. " I will
take it out in your way. You are a judge, and, I pre-
sume, a lawyer."

"Yes; I am both."

" Well, what is your price for an opinion ?"

"That depends upon circumstances."

" Suppose a man wrongs me, and I knock him down ;
how much ought I to pay ?"

" That depends upon his quality."

" Suppose he is a judge, but unjust."

" Well, it would cost you a dollar."

" And how much for your opinion ?"

" Thirty-seven and a half cents."

" That is cheap enough. Now, the change you owe
me will pay for your legal opinion, and there is a dollar
for knocking you down !"

Upon this I gave his worship a slap with my full
palm at the side of his head, which sent him across the
room, and, at last, laid him on the floor. This was
wrong, I know, but I was very angry. I did not wait
to receive the judge's compliments, for I expected a
storm. I went straight to the stable, and saddling
my horse, I left the village, and returned to Nishapoor.

I SET OUT FOB TEHEBAK. 255

CHAPTER XXXIII.

I quit Nishapoor, and set out for Teheran. — Join a Company of
Traders. — Khorassan. — The Tiger's Throat. — Appearance of
Danger. — A Terrible Alarm. — A Furious Battle. — I come oft
victorious, and push on to Demavend. — Find I^have made my
Fortune.— -Jubilation. — Arrival at Teheran. — I Loom up. — ^A
Sudden Turn of Fortune. — I am put in Prison. — My Trial. — I
get the best of it. —A shabby Betum for my Generosity. — I do
a very improper Thing.

As speedily as possible I made my preparations to
quit Nishapoor, and proceed on my journey. My in-
tention was to go to Teheran, the capital of Persia.
This lies to the west a distance of more than three
hundred miles, the route leading, for the most part,
through a rugged, wild, and mountainous country.

Having exchanged my little cob of a horse for a
more lively animal, I joined a small caravan of traders,
and we set forward. Nishapoor is situated in the pro-
vince of Khorassan, a term which signifies Country of
the Sun, The southern part of the district is a saline
desert, which is frequently swept by a terrible wind
called the Simoon. The northern portions consist of
lofty and rugged ridges, and fertile valleys between.

Cattle-feeding is the chief employment of the in-
habitants of the desert. There are among them, how-
ever, bands* of Turcomans, Koords, and Djelers, who
live by plunder, being mounted on swift camels or
horses, and roaming about from place to place, restless
as vultures, seeking whom they may devour.

Our company proceeded at the rate of about thirty
miles a day, and at the end of a week they had per-
formed more than half the journey. At last we came
to a narrow pass called the Tiger's Throat, lying
between two rocky mountains. The ^\a«.^ ^^a^ ^ssi^-

256 APPEABAIfCE 07 PAIfGEB.

ceedingly wild, and scarcely allowed a pathway between
the enormous rocks that had fallen &om the impending
cliffs on both sides, and choked up the valley. This
spot was regarded with a degree of terror, partly on
account of its natural wildness, partly because it had
the reputation of being haunted by wolves, and more
than all because it was the rendezvous of Turcoman
robbers.

As we approached the place, our whole party became
watchful, and every man prepared for defence. Some
were armed with pistols, some with knives, others
with scimitars, and three or four with long spears.
One or two ferocious-looking fellows were each pro-
vided with all these weapons.

For myself, not being aware of the danger, I was
entirely unarmed, and would have given a good price for
one of Colt's revolvers, or one of Sharpe's rifles ; but
these were out of the question. Afber a good deal of
bickering, I bought a pistol of one of our company, a
trading Armenian, who, like the greater part of our
caravan, was on his way from Cabool to Damascus, or
some of the intermediate capitals.

On examining the piece, however, I found it per-
fectly useless. I could think of nothing better than to
cut myself a club about five feet in length, which, being
of wood in the sap, was very heavy, and & formidable
weapon. I took care to place myself about the middle
of the caravan, in the rear of a brawny Syrian, armed
to the teeth, my idea being, that he would take the
brunt of the battle, if we should actually meet with an
enemy.

It was just at evening that we entered this for-
midable pass. The moon was near its fall, and in a
short time was vi&ible o^ex 'tii^^ TCLOuntains to the east.

JL TEBBIBLB AUOIM. 257

In a safe country and a pleasant state of mind, the full
moon is a cheerful companion, and seems to throw a
pleasant calm over the feelings ; hut in a wild region
where the rocks around naturally assume the appear-
ance of hears, lions, and tigers, and especially where
these frightful images seem to acquire life and activity
from the legends which haunt the place, the moon
serves only to excite the terrors of the imagination.
The grisly images around hecome more frightful in the
pale light that seems, after all, only to give relief and
holdness to the monsters that crouch in the shadows.
It may he well understood, therefore, that the minds of
our party were wrought up to the highest pitch hy the
time we reached the middle of the valley, where we
had reason to suppose that the terrihle Turcomans
might rush upon us.

At this critical moment there was a sudden sound,
like the rush of a horseman down the rocky sides of
the mountain. " They come ! they come !*' burst in a
wild shout from the whole line of our caravan. At
the same moment every man was seen to put his horse
to the gallop, and rush headlong through the windings
of the pass. Some went forward, some dashed into the
ravines at the side, some turned backward, and scam-
pered away as fast as they could go.

For my part I stood still, holding my pistol in my
left hand, which I intended to show as a warning,
while I grasped my green shillelah in the right for ser-
vice. I waited several minutes, but no enemy ap-
peared ; I therefore moved forward, and soon put my
horse into a smart trot. As I was descending a rocky
declivity, I suddenly came upon a hideous fellow, armed
with a spear at least eight feet long, a carbine, and other
weapons. .^^

258 A ruBiOTTs battle.

As the fiill moonlight fell upon him, I could see that
he was a man of great strength, and well mounted.
He did not give me time to turn about and run, as I
thought of doing, but, uttering a yell of "Allah-il-
Allah," he came at me in a furious gallop. " Bunker
Hill and Buena Vista !'* said I, at the same time rising
in my stirrups and whirling my club round in the air,
as I had seen the Murphys do at New York.

Whiz came the spear close to my ear, and a moment
after my enemy assaulted me with his scimitar. I ex-
pected to see my head fly off like a popped com. Never-
theless, I swung my shillelah about, and taking advan-
tage of a good opportunity, gave the fellow a slap at
the side of the head which tumbled him off his horse,
and sent him rolling over the rocks like a sack of meal.
I immediately seized the bridle of his horse, and lead-
ing him by my side, trotted rapidly along through the
dell.

I pursued what I supposed to be the right road till
morning. I saw no one, and wondered what had be-
come alike of the enemy and of my companions. The
weather was clear, and though I was not sure that I
was in the true path, I could see by the rising sun that
I was going in the right direction. Continuing my
journey, after two days' solitary travel I came to the
town of Demavend, which is a small place situated at
the foot of a mountain of the same name.

This is the loftiest peak of the celebrated Elburze
range, which extends in a bending line across the whole
of Northern Persia. It is in fact a part of the chain
which stretches, under various names, across Central
Asia, from the bofders of the Black Sea to the eastern
shores of China. Mount Demavend is fifteen thousand
feet high. It has a corneal shai^e, with a crater at the

riKD I HATE MADE MT FOBTUITB. 259

top, which shows that it has been volcanic. It yields
large quantities of pumice-stone and pure sulphur.
Around its base are numerous hot springs.

I remained at this place two or three days, to recruit,
and examine my prize, consisting of a horse I had cap-
tured from the Turcoman, together with the contents
of the burthen he bore.

These I found to consist of merchandise of various
kinds, of immense value. There were not only some
exquisite rings, pendants, bracelets, and other orna-
ments, set with rubies, diamonds, and other precious
stones, from Golconda, in Hindostan, but there were
three magnificent shawls from Cashmere ; a box of one
hundred and sixteen superb turquoises of the largest
and purest kind ; several pieces of the most beautiful
India muslin that I have ever seen ; nearly a hundred
uncut diamonds of various sizes ; about two pounds of
musk ; six pounds of opium, and a variety of other
articles of greater or less value. I estimated the whole
to be worth at least fifty thousand dollars.

Of course I was in a state of great exultation. " My
object is accomplished," said I, "my fortune is made !
I can now go back and live like a nabob at Sajdy
Plain." I could hardly refrain from rushing into the
streets and proclaiming my good fortune to the inha-
bitants of the village. A little reflection, however,
satisfied me that I had better keep my own counsel.
I repacked my precious stones, sold my own horse, ana
set out upon the one I had captured, for Teheran.

The next day I arrived at that city, which is the
winter capital of Persia. It looks well as you approach
it, its mosques, colleges, and caravsbBeries being nume-
rous and in good condition. It has also sevml
furnished shops and bazaars, anda&>R \^3NCL^aoi&Kk^

^1

260 JL BUDDEK TTTBir OP POfiTmOI.

belonging to the Persian nobility. There are two royal
palaces, one in the city, and another on a hill in the
vicinity. It is surrounded by an earthen wall, and
from a distance, as I have said, it has a picturesque ap-
pearance, but the streets within the city consist of low
houses built of earth, and have a mean appearance.

I took up my residence at gne of the caravansaries,
and being now easy in my circumstances, I indulged
myself in a few luxuries which I considered no more
than my due, after the many hardships, sufferings, and
privations I had endured. But misfortune seems gene-
rally nearest when we least expect it. I was one day
walking in the bazaar, dressed in a new turban and rich
green surtout, edged with fiir and coming down to my
heels ; on my fingers I had no less than seven magnifi-
cent rings. In my bosom I wore a pin worth at least
five hundred dollars. In fact, I was attired like a
prince, and I have an idea that I looked like one.

As I passed through the crowd, everybody turned
and looked at me. I drew myself up to my full height
and towered head and shoulders above the mass around
me. But suddenly I saw myself encircled by a set of
desperate-looking fellows, armed with scimitars, blue
jackets, and red turbans. I had not time to say a word
before I was seized and trotted off through the streets
— a crowd of loafers and vagabonds — men, women, and
children — trudging after us, and cackling like so many
geese.

At last we arrived at a dark-looking stone building,
the door of which was speedily opened, and in I was
thrust, my captoisi following me. Here we paused a
moment, and therl was a consultation. I took advan-
tage of the opportunity to ask the leader of the band
what I was to undeistaii^ \3iy ^ tbds violence. The

I AM PUT nr PBisos". 261

man gazed at me a moment, but made no reply. I
then addressed the whole company as follows : —

" This may be very good sport for you, gentlemen,
but it is not pleasant to me. I have always understood
that the Persians were a polite people, but never in my
life have I been treated so rudely. Here am I, a
stranger in Teheran, quietly and innocently walking
the streets, when I am suddenly seized and hurried off
to prison ! Nobody condescends to tell me the crime
of which I am accused ; no opportunity is given for
explanation or defence.

" This is not only a breach of good manners, but it
is a violation of justice and law, as understood in civi-
lized countries. You had better take care of what you
do. I belong to the imiversal Yankee nation, which
beat the British, thrashed the Algerines, conquered
Mexico, and swallowed Califomia whole. You'd better
look out, I say : General Pierce is President, and if he
hears of the manner in which you treat a citizen of the
United States, he'll make you pay dear for it 1"

Having made this speech, I looked round to observe
its effect, but the fellows said nothing, and all looked
the other way. In a short time, a small fat man, of a
sallow and feminine look, with a black turban on his
head, came with a bunch of enormous keys. We fol-
lowed him between a long range of rooms till we came
to a stone archway. Here the little sallow man put in
a key and opened a heavy door. In I was thrust, the
door was locked, and I was lefb to myself I

Here was a pretty adventure. What a terrible down-
fall of my fortunes ! The place was as dark as pitch,
and very damp withal. I tried to whistle Yankee
Doodle, but there was no music in me, which is pretty
good evidence that I felt my situatioiL tic^ \^ \%i;ks!^ ^

262 MY TEIAL.

discouraging one. Affcer a time I began to feel a little
better, and concluding that matters would mend some
time or other, sat down upon a stone seat and began
to consider my ways.

To make a long story short, I was taken out at the
end of three days, and brought before the criminal
court of Teheran. There were four judges, who wore
turbans as big as a peck. I was charged with rob-
bing Malek Taroimi al Taroum, a merchant of Armenia,
in a fierce and felonious manner !

The crime was stated to have taken place by night,
in the pass of the Tiger's Throat. The indictment set
forth the event as one of the most daring robberies
that had ever been committed. Malek had been
knocked from his horse, tumbled over the rocks, and
left for dead, while the robber fled with his horse, car-
rying off* rich treasures of untold value.

Never was a man more completely flabbergasted than
I was at this accusation, and what was the worst of all
— the story was substantially true. The sufferer was
now brought forward as a witness, and, to my amaze-
ment, I perceived that he was one of my companions
on the journey from Nishapoor. In a moment I saw
the whole truth. Somehow or other this man and my-
self, during the alarm in the valley, had mistaken each
other for enemies. Each had imagined the other to
be a Turcoman. In the battle I had come off victorious,
and supposed that the effects of my robber enemy
were the lawful spoils of war. He, too, thinking me a
Turcoman, and finding me at Teheran, caused me to be
arrested and brought before the court.

I allowed the case to proceed till the witness had

told his story, in which, by the way, he had adhered to

the truth, except the sydditiou o£ a few flourishes set-

MT TBIAL. 263:

ting forth his valorous achievements in the combat. I
then asked permission of the court to cross-question
the witness. This was granted, and we proceeded as
follows : —

"You say that your name is Malek Taroum al
Taroum ?"

" It is,*' was the answer.

" You have been on a trading expedition to Cabool,
and you were returning to your native country, which;
is Armenia ?"

"Yes."

" At Nishapoor you were joined by a stranger, who
accompanied you as far as the Tiger's Throat. This
stranger purchased of you an old pistol, and gave you
five dollars for it, as a means of defence against the
Turcomans, who were expected to attack the caravan.
The pistol was good for nothing, and of course you
cheated the stranger ?"

" It was a fair bargain ; the man saw what he bought.' '

" Well, was this the pistol ?" As I said this, I handed
it to him, for I happened to have it in my pocket.

" It is the same," said Malek, afber a slight exami-*
nation.

"Look at me," said I, lifting my turban, "am not
I the stranger to whom you sold the pistol ?"

Malek looked amazed, but answered in the affirmative*

"One thing more," said I. "In the fright occa-
sioned among our party in the Tiger's Throat, you got
bewildered and turned backward, as you have already
related. You met me in your path, and violently
assaulted me. In the battle you were defeated. It
would appear then that you sought my Hfe, while I

acted from self-defence. I took your property, at b ^

longing to me of nght, because I was the ^ux^'OlkflHJI

264 HY TBIAL.

deadly encounter. Now, it appears to me, that we
should exchange conditions ; that you should take my
place in prison, and that I should be set at liberty."

The effect of this speech upon Malek was like that
of a thunder-clap. He saw the full force of what I
had said, and his evident embarrassment convinced the
court that my statement was the simple truth.

" What do you say to this ?" said one of the judges,
addressing Malek.

** Before I answer," said the merchant, " let me ask
of the court, whether I could not claim my goods, even
supposing the stranger has told the truth ?"

" That will be for the court to consider," said the
judge. " Let us first have the facts. Was the caravan
actually attacked in the Tiger's Pass by the Tur-
comans ?"

'' I believe not," said Malek. ^' So far as I can learn,
the caravan people were frightened by some accident,
perhaps the rolling of a rock down one of the preci-
pices. The noise sounded to them like the clatter of
horses' feet, or the clashing of armed men in conflict.
Some one cried out, * They come !' and the wliole
party scattered."

"It appears to me very obvious," said the judge,
'Hhat the prisoner has given a true account of this
affair. It explains circumstances which your story
would render mysterious and improbable. What have
you to say to the prisoner, who claims that you should
take his place, and he be set at liberty ?"

" And is he to keep my property ?" said Malek, with
a shudder.

" Why not ?" said the judge.

"It was all an innocent mistake on my part," said
the merchant, now completely humbled.

I GET THS BEST OF IT. 265

" Yes," said the judge, " but you put this man's life
in peril. You sought to slay him, and he has escaped
only by the will of God. You have pursued him and
caid him to be imprisoned. You have arraigned
him before this court, and have done what you could to
effect his punishment."

" Still I acted without evil motives. I acted under a
mistake. I am willing to make compensation."

"How much," said the judge.

Here I begged leave to speak. " Don't be hard upon
the merchant," said I ; " may it please your honours, 1
can see that this affair is a blunder from beginning to
end. Let me be set at liberty, and I will cheerfully
restore to Malek his property. I will leave it to him to
make such compensation as he thinks proper."

The Armenian joyfully accepted this arrangement,
and the court confirmed it. I was immediately libe-
rated, and went with the merchant to my apartments
at the caravansera, where I delivered him his property.
He carefully examined the whole, and compared the
articles with his inventory. Every thing was there
except a single diamond, which I had sold. He took
care to assure himself that he was in full possession,
and then asked me what I expected in consideration of
the circumstances.

" I leave it entirely to you," said I, " you are rich,
and I am poor. Give me what you please."

" Well," said the Armenian, " you have sold a dia-
mond which was worth five hundred dollars."

" I received but fifty for it," said I.

" It was worth at least five hundred, and that, I
think, is ample compensation for your three days' im*
prisonment."

"As you please," said I, quietly* -. \i<i%;

266 I DO A VEET IMFBOFEB THINa.

"Very well," said he, rising, "if you are content, I
am. Farewell !" Upon this he was about to take his
leave, when I said, " Stop a moment, the account is not
square. Your liberality leaves me in debt. Upon this
I took him by the collar, dragged him through the
door out upon the gallery of the caravansera, brought
him to the top of one of the stairways, and giving him
a kick, sent him on all fours to the bottom, where he
landed safely in a soft heap of camel's manure. It
was a very foolish and improper thing on my part, but
I must beg to say 1 was rather excited.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

The King and Court of Persia. — Description of tMs Kingdom. —
Hadjee Ibrahim. — Shah Abbas. — Animals of Persia. — Trade
and Commerce. — Money. — The Inhabitants. — Manners and Cus-
toms. — Religion. — Education. — Poets. — The Caspian Sea. — I aet
out to visit Lankeren. — Baku. — The Naphtha Springs. — The
Atash-Kudda. — The Ghebers. — Mud Volcanoes. — Astrakan. —
Orenburg. — Set out to return to Teheran.

It was winter when I was at Teheran, and the King
and Court were there. The place is very damp and
imhealthy in summer, and at that season it is deserted
by a great part of the inhabitants, who then remove to
the adjacent country, there being many pleasant villages
aroimd. The winter population is sixty or seventy
thousand, but in summer not more than ten thousand
remain.

Persia, which makes such a figure in ancient his-
tory, is now comparatively insignificant. In the time
of the celebrated Cyrus, the conqueror of Babylon, and
the founder of the great Persian Empire upon the ruins
of Assyria, 636 before Christ, it stretched from India
to the borders of t\ie BWk ^^ wad probably included

HADJEE IBBAHIM. 267

about a hundred millions of inhabitants. About 330 B.C.
it was conquered by Alexander, and from that period,
amid many changes and vicissitudes, it has always con*
tinned to be an inferior kingdom . At the present time its
population is about twelve millions ; its territory, lying
between the Caspian Sea on the north, and the Persian
Gulf at the south, is about ten times as extensive as
the state of New York, and seven times as extensive as
New England.

The government is a complete despotism, and is ad-
ministered with little wisdom. The nobles are nume-
rous, and are entrusted with the provincial governments,
where they practise every species of extortion and
oppression. The following anecdote will illustrate this :

Hadjee Ibrahim was a noble of Teheran. A few
years ago a shopkeeper of the capital went one day to
the brother of Ibrahim, who was governor, to request
the abatement of a tax which he was unable to pay.

"You must pay, or leave the city,** replied the
governor.

" Where shall I go ?" asked the shopkeeper.

" To Shiraz," was the reply.

" Your nephew rtdes that city, and all your family
are my enemies," was the answer.

" Then to Cashan."

" But your uncle is governor there."

" Then complain to the Shah."

" But your brother Hadjee is prime minister.*'

"Then go to the lower regions!** exclaimed the
governor, in a passion.

" But your pious father is dead," retorted the shop-
keeper.

Ibrahim burst into a laugh at the witty impudence
of the man, and said :

268 BHAH ABBAS — ^AJTIliALB OF FEBSIA.

" Then I will pay your tax myself, as my family
keeps you from all means of redress, both in this world
and in the next."

It would appear that although the Persian monarchs
are among the most cruel of despots, they are not
insensible to the claims of justice, if they chance to be
put in such a way as to touch the heart. It is said of
Shah Abbas, who flourished about the year 1600 a.d.,
and whose reign was regarded as the golden period of
modem Persia, that he was once on a hunting expedi«
tion, when just at dawn, he met a very ugly looking
peasant. At the sight of this person the king's horse
started so violently as almost to throw him off. Abbas,
who like most of his countrymen, was superstitious,
deeming this a bad omen, ordered the man's head to be
struck off. The poor peasant was immediately seized,
and the scimitar was drawn for his execution, when he
begged that they would inform him what crime he had
committed.

" Your crime,*' said the Shah, "is your unlucky face,
which is the first object I saw this morning, and which
had ne^ly caused me to break my neck."

" Alas," said the man, " by this rule, what must I
say of your majesty^ s face, which was the first object I
saw this morning, and which is about to cause me to
lose wy head?"

The Shah was so diverted by the man's wit and pre-
sence of mind, that he not only spared his life, but made
him a Hberal present.

Among the wild animals of Persia, are lions, tigers,

leopards, chetahs or hunting leopards, lynxes, and

hyenas. There are few reptiles, but many parts arc

dreadfully infested by insects. Scorpions, centipedes of

great size, and gigaii\>\o ^^\ddT%, ^11 venomous, are nu*

TBADE AKD COICMEBCB. 269

merous in certain districts. The musquitoes in the
jungles of the north surpass, in numher and size, any-
thing of the kind known in the United States. Hosts
of locusts occasionally spread like clouds over the
country, and carry devastation far and wide. The camel
is largely used in the trading caravans ; and fine breeds
of horses are common. The horse, indeed, is the great
pet of the Persians. It is attended with as much care
and attention as a child. It is clothed according to the
weather, kept close in the stable during the heat of the
day in summer, and taken out to breathe the fresh air at
night. Dromedaries and mules are in great request as
beasts of burthen.

The principal trade of Persia is with India, Turkey,
Russia, Independent Tartary, and Affghanistan. All
this commerce is carried on by caravans, chiefly of
camels. The whole interior of Asia has indeed been the
theatre of an extended caravan trade for thousands of
years. From India the Persians receive Indigo, cali-
coes, muslins, gold and silver brocades, precious stones,
China and earthenware. From Turkey they get Eu-
ropean manufactures: from Russia, iron, broadcloth,
gold lace, metal buttons, coarse calicoes, ]^s, fringes,
cutlery, leather, glassware, quicksilver, &c. There is
considerable direct trade with England, the Persians re-
ceiving woollen goods of all sorts, shawls, jewellery, fire-
arms, watches, spectacles, glassware, earthenware, and
articles of tin, copper, and iron.

To India the Persians send spices, dried finiits, to-
bacco, wine, drugs, dates, sulphur, turquoises, shawls,
rose-water, swords, horses, greyhounds, &c. ; to Turkey,
grain, raw silk, tobacco, skins of lambs, spices, salt, sheep,
&c. Many articles of a similar kind are sent to Bagdad.
There is considerable trade also along tli<^ Q;a&^\X!L ^^^^^^^s^

270 MOKET — THE IKHABITA2n:S.

of the Caspian, with the Turcomans, and by way of the
interior with the Tartar tribes, known as Usbecks. The
chief article sent to these people is a peculiar species of
shawl manufactured at Kerman.

The Persians have no shipping of any consequence;
sea commerce being almost entirely in the hands of
foreigners. The chief coin consists of hajoglees and
Jcoroonees, of silver, and pool-e-siah, or black money, of
copper. The population is very mixed, consisting of
Arabs, Turks, Tartars, Armenians, and Greorgians,
grafted on the original Persian stock. A large portion
of the people live a nomade or wandering life, having
no habitation but tents, and no property but their
flocks. The inhabitants of the towns and cities are
devoted to trades and manufactures; there are nu-
merous gardeners and farmers in the vicinity. The
higher classes about the court are skilful in every spe-
cies of intrigue, and are more distinguished for a slip-
pery politeness than for integrity. They are described
as at once sensual, venal, deceitful, and treacherous,
and when they dare be so, they are arrogant and over-
bearing.

The townspeople, influenced by the example of those
in high places, partake of their vices, though in an
inferior degree. They are heroic, cheerful, polite, and
sociable; the masters are kind, and the servants obe-
dient. It is said there is a striking resemblance between
this people and the French, in a imiversal politeness
■running through all classes, and greatly smoothing the
intercourse of society.

As a race, the Persians are very handsome, robust,

and active. The women are beautiful, but in the towns

they are kept secluded as in Turkey. The wives of the

^eat spend tlie\r time Va. ^om^, Wt\im^, and a little

MATJ^KEES AND CUSTOMS — ^EDUCATION. 271

embroidery, and in visiting one another. Many of
them meet at the baths, where they have abundance of
idle talk and racy scandal. Large, soft, languishing
eyes, like those of the gazelle, are considered the chief
features of beauty. Many of them are fair, like the
women of Europe, but they all spoil their appearance,
according to our taste, by painting their cheeks of
various colours, and tattooing their skins. They also
smoke to excess, thus defiling their breath and ruining
their teeth. When they go abroad, they wrap them-
selves entirely in a cloak, extending from the head to
the feet, and so arranged as to permit them to see out
of two little holes. Though they are thus careful of
their persons, their language is in the highest degree
coarse and indelicate.

The Persians are Mahometans of the sect called
Sheahs, while the Turks belong to the sect called
Sunnites, The two are opposed to each other as bit-
terly as the Catholics and Protestants of Europe and
America. The priests in Persia are numerous, and
consist of a great many orders, the chief being called
mooshtehed. Of this rank there are four or five, as
there are four or five patriarchs in the Greek Church.
There are still a few of the old Ghebers, or fire-
worshippers, who follow the ancient Zoroaster, whose
doctrine was that " hyfire we hreathe ; to this the earth
owes its fertility, animals their existence, and plants
their vegetation,^^

Considerable attention has been paid to education at
different times in Persia, and especially by some of the
former sovereigns. This, however, was chiefly for the
higher classes and for the priesthood. At present there
are private schools for teaching to read and write, and
especially to understand the prayers and practices of

272 EDUCATION — ^POETS.

the Mahometan religion. The children of the rich are
taught by private masters at home. There is some
literature, embracing poetry and tales, but books of
true science and solid history are imknown. The chief
poet is Hafiz, who lived in the time of Tamerlane. His
verses are too extravagant to be tolerable in English.
In one he said he would give the cities of Samarcand
and Bokhara, then in all their splendour, for the mole
on the cheek of his mistress. When Tamerlane came
to Shiraz, where the poet Hved, he asked how he dared
thus to dispose of his two principal cities ?

"Can the gifts of Hafiz impoverish Tamerlane P"
said the poet ; by which the king was greatly delighted,
and consequently he became his friend and patron.

While Hafiz is a sentimental and lyrical poet, Saadi
is a moralist, and in this vein he is at the head of Persian
writers. He was bom at Shiraz near the end of the
twelfth century, and being in Syria he was taken by the
Crusaders, and compelled to work as a slave in building
fortifications. From this condition he was released by
a merchant of Aleppo, who paid ten crowns for his
ransom, and gave him his daughter in marriage with a
dowry of a himdred crowns. She, however, proved a
terrible shrew, and led poor Saadi a sad life. On one
occasion she reproached him with having been bought
of the Christians for ten crowns. " Yes," said the
poet ; " and then I was sold to you for a hundred
crowns !**

There are other Persian poets, of whom the most
famous is Firdusi, who wrote a poetical account of the
Persian kings, extending to a dozen folio volumes !

Soon after I arrived at Teheran the spring set in,
and having a great curiosity to see the Caspian Sea, I
smarted for that purpose, with a company of traders

THE OASPIAK SEA. 273

going to sell goods to the Usbecks. The distance from
Teheran to the Caspian is not over a hundred and fifty
miles, hut the road leads over the Elhurz mountains, so
that our journey to the little town of Esterahad, lying
near the south-east comer of the Caspian, cost us five
days of severe travelling. I here parted with the cara-
vans, which proceeded along the eastern coast, while I
sailed in a small sloop for the Kussian port of Lan-
keren.

The Caspian Sea is one of the most remarkahle sheets
of water in the world. It is about 700 miles long, and
from 140 to 400 miles wide. Its extent is about
120,000 square miles, equal to the British Islands,
almost twice as extensive as all New England, and four
times as large as Lake Superior. It receives several
large rivers, as the Volga, Ural Terek, Kur, &c., yet
it has no outlet, and such is the amount of evaporation,
that it is 300 feet lower than it was in ancient times,
and nearly 100 feet lower than the Black Sea. The
water is salt, yet much less so than the ocean. It has
no tides. It aboimds in salmon and other fishes, with
seals, &c. In winter its northern part is frozen over.
The waters are shallow near the coasts, being but about
twelve feet ; in other places they are scarcely fathomable.
Its shores are broken, and in some places mountainous,
so that the winds are rendered irregular and variable,
causing the navigation to be dangerous.

The Caspian Sea is bounded on the south by Persia,
on the east by the Turcomans and Kirguiz Tartars, and
on the west by Bussia. Near the north-west comer, at
the mouth of the great river Volga, is the Russian town
of Astrakan, which has now almost monopolizodthe entire
trade of this great inland sea. At present, steamboais
ply from this city to several places «Ai()Ti^\^<^ ^^ciKStMik. •

T

274 BAKU — ^ITAPHTHA SFBINOS.

In two days our sloop reached Lankeren, which I
found to be a small town, formerly belongmg to Persia,
but recently taken by Eussia. It is a place of some
importance, being the chief port in this quarter. Here
I staid two days, and then proceeded in the same vessel
to Baku, a Bussian town on the celebrated peninsula
pf Apsheron. This juts out from the western coast
some fifty miles, and is noted for its mud volcanoes and
springs of naphtha, or bitumen.

Baku has about 5000 inhabitants, and is surrounded
by a double wall and deep ditch, constructed in the time
of Peter the Great. It has several mosques and cara-
vanserais, but it is very meanly built. Its houses have
flat roofs as in the East, and these are covered with
naphtha, which excludes the water. The chief advan-
tages of this place consist in its central position, its
good harbours, and its wells of naphtha. A steamboat
runs between this place and Astrakan.

I had a great curiosity to see the naphtha springs,
which I fouod to be in a plain to the south-east of the
city. The quantity produced is really enormous. As
soon as the naphtha is taken out of a well it comes in
again, so that 1000 and even 1500 pounds are often
taken from one pit in a day. It is used by the natives
in the country around, instead of lamp oil, yet, though
it gives a clear flame, it throws out a large quantity of
filthy, bad-smelling smoke. The naphtha is exported
in large quantities.

Just to the east of this region of the naphtha springs,
I saw a large edifice, and on inquiry was told that it
was the Atash-Kudda of the ancient Ghebers, or fire-
worshippers, whom I have recently mentioned. Here
is a space of ground nearly a mile in circuit, in the
centre of which, from time immemorial, a bluish flame

MUD YOLOAKOES — ^ASTBAEAK. 275

has issued from the ground. Around this the people
have built a wall, and to smother the flame, have covered
the earth with a thick coat of loam. When, however,
they want the flame for any purpose, as to cook their
vegetables, or to make a pot boil, they scrape a hole in
the loam, and the fire bursts out. When they have
done with it, they cover it up, and the flame gradually
disappears.

This is so wonderful that I could hardly believe it,
unless I had seen it. A kind of sulphurous gas rises
with the flame, and when this is extinguished, a current
of inflammable air continues for a time. This is taken
in leathern bottles, and may be transported to a distance.
The whole country around Baku at particular times
seems to be covered with a light bluish flame, which,
however, does not consume, and a person in the midst
of it feels no warmth. Sometimes large masses of fire
seem rolling down from the edges of the mountains,
with incredible velocity. In the clear moonlit nights
of November and December, the whole western range
of mountains appears to be clothed in flame.

Besides all this, there are around Baku what are
called mud volcanoes. These frequently throw up large
quantities of mud, though without any great signs of
violence or agitation. My stay being limited, I had
not the pleasure of seeing any of these curious pheno-
mena.

I was very anxious to go to Astrakan, as I was told
it was quite an interesting place, with 60,000 inhabi-
tants. It has commercial relations with all parts of the
Bussian Empire, and is in fact a kind of central point
between its vast territories of Europe and Asia. It is
the chief dep6t of the trade carried on between Eussia,
Persia, Tartary, India, and China. Orenburg, 600 miles

t2

276 A 8TKAKGE SET OE PASSE2<r0EBS.

to the north, though a Bmall town, has however large
intercourse with Astrakan, especially in connexion witii
the great inland commerce of Bussia with Central
Asia.

It was now time for me to return to Teheran, as I
had engaged to accompany a caravan from that city to
Bagdad, and the day for its departure was approaching.
I therefore took passage in a little vessel, and, aH^r a
boisterous run of seven days, reached Asterbad.

CHAPTER XXXV.

A BtraBge set of PaBsengers. — Some account of Armenia. — ^Monnt
Afarat. — Story of the Armenian and the Charm.

J'S my passage from Baku to Asterbad, we had on
board several odd-looking customers, among whom was
a merchant of Teheran, but a native of Armenia; a
rough, athletic Koord ; a roving, piratical sort of a fellow
from Turcomania ; two or three Tartars, a Greek priest,
and several other persons whose country I could not
designate. Our passage was a long one ; and in order
to pass the time, a great many stories were told. I
may as well repeat two or three of them, as they seem
to illustrate the manners and customs of these far-off
regions. The first I shall give is that of the Armenian,
which was as follows : —

" Armenia, as you must know, is one of the oldest
countries in the world. Here is Moimt Ararat, a moun-
tain standing apart and by itself, yet rising to the height
of 17,000 feet above the level of the sea. It was here
that the Ark of Noah rested after the deluge, and in its
neighbourhood, no doubt, were formed some of the
earliest states and kingdoms of the world. The upper
part of the mountain is now covered with perpetual

BTOBY OF THB ASMES1A.JS, 277

snow, and it is very difficult to reach its top. Whether
it was so in Noah's time, I cannot tell : perhaps the
water of the deluge melted it oif, or perhaps he landed
with his ark below the line of snow.

" But, however that might he, there once lived near
the foot of the mountain a shepherd by the name of
Luke Gozzo. He was very poor, having only seven
sheep and seven goats, with a miserable shed of wood
for a house in the summer. He had also a hole in the
ground for his winter's residence, the climate being so
severe that most of the people in this quarter are
obliged thus to burrow in the earth for six months of
the year. Poor Luke had also a little stony patch of
land, upon which he raised a few onions, some cabbages,
and two or three baskets of beans. This was his whole
property ; yet he had seven children, and, what was very
hard for poor Grozzo to comprehend, they were all boys.
His wife was an honest creature, and a very thrifty
housewife. She was content with her lot ; and while
her husband grumbled, and thought it very hard that
Providence should send him nothing but boys, she took
it all in good part, and did the best she could ; so that
by hook and by crook the family made out to live, in
spite of their poverty.

" Now the country of Armenia is very mountainous,
and in general the people are poor ; so that it is common
for the youths to quit the country and go to other
places to seek their fortune. When they have got a
little money, they often return, and live comfortably in
their native mountains.

" When, therefore, the eldest of Luk^ Goovo's boys
had reached the age of fifteen yewt, ill. Ml
necessary for him to leave the paternal.]
some other country and try to

278 STOET or the abmeniak

stances. One sheep and one goat were accordingly sold
to supply his outfit. He was provided with two shirts,
a pair of shoes, a jacket, and a pair of pantaloons, with
fifty cents in money. This was his entire equipment,
except a little hag with something carefully sewed up
in it, given to him by his mother, with instructions not
to open it till he found himself in trouble. This she
called a charm ; and, although her husband laughed at
her about it, she impressed it upon her son's mind that
it was really a matter of importance. Thus provided,
and having received the blessing of his parents, he set
forth upon his adventures. The next year another boy
was fifteen, and he was provided and sent off in the
same manner. The next year another went; and,
finally, at the end of seven years, all Luke's boys had
departed in search of their fortunes. The seven sheep
and the seven goats had also all been sold for their
equipment.

"Luke and his wife were now left alone, and they
were so poor that they could hardly get the means
of living. Seven years had passed away, and they had
heard nothing of their children. But now a change
began to take place. One morning they were awakened
by the noise of sheep and goats bleating around the
house. When they got up, a stranger met them at the
door, who said to them, * Your eldest son is now a rich
merchant at Constantinople. He has sent you seven
sheep and seven goats, and seven pieces of gold and
seven pieces of silver, and he has sent me to deliver
them, and here they are !' So the man delivered the
sheep and the goats, and the gold and silver, and,
carrying the blessing of the father and mother to the
son, he departed.
"A year now elapsed, YiYieii eocVj ^yc^a TCkOtYda^ Luke

AITD TnE CHA.BM. 279

and his wife were awakened by a noise without.
When they arose, a stranger met them at the door, and
said, ' Your second son is a rich merchant at Bagdad,
and he has sent you seven sheep and seven goats, and
seven pieces of silver and seven pieces of gold. He has
sent me to deliver them, and here they are.' So the
man delivered the sheep and the goats, and the silver
and the gold ; and carrying the blessing of the father
and mother to the second son, he departed.

" At the end of another year another stranger arrived
with the same gifts from the third son, who was now a
rich merchant at Smyrna. At the end of another year
the same gifts came from the fourth son, who was now
a rich merchant at St. Petersburg. At the end of
another year the same came from the fifth son, who was
a rich merchant at London. At the end of another
year the same came from the sixth son, who was a rich
merchant at Damascus; and at the end of another
year the same came from the seventh son, who was a
rich merchant at Teheran.

" And now Luke Gozzo was rich, for he had large
flocks of sheep and goats, and he had a big chest full of
gold and silver. He had also the satisfaction to know
that his sons had all prospered in life. Thus he and his
wife were very happy, and glided gently down the
stream of life together. Only one thing was wanting to
complete their satisfaction, and that was to see their
children once more. At last, when they were stricken
in years, their eldest son came ; and while he tarried with
them the second came, and then the third ; and finally
all the seven sons were with them.

"And when they were together, they conversed
about their several adventures, and how they had all
prospered ; and each one declared that his success was

280 STOBT or THE ABMElSXOr.

owing to the charm in the little bag given to them hj
their mother at parting."

Here the Armenian paused as if he had finished his
story ; but several persons at the same time asked him
what was the charm in the little bag. Putting his
hand in his pocket, he drew out a small bag like a purse,
but much worn, and, holding it, he said, '' Here is one
of the charms."

" And are you one of the seven sons ?" said I.

" I am," he replied, " and I am on my way back from
the meeting of my brothers to my home at Teheran."

" And you really attribute your success in life to this
charm ?"

"I do."

" It must be of the greatest value, then ?"

" Yes ; would you like to buy one ?"

I replied in the affirmative, and several other passen-
gers also expressed a desire to purchase the art of suc-
cess in life. At last, however, the Armenian said,
" Come, I will open the bag, and show you the charm !"
Upon this, he opened it, and on a bit of sheepskin was
written in the Armenian language as follows : — " Do

THE BEST YOU CAK, AND PBAT GOD TO HELP TOU !"

We all agreed that it was a good story ; and now the
Koord was called upon to tell one. But the account of
this must be given in another chapter.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

The Koords and Eoordistan. — The Story of the Eoord.

I MAT as well say that the country of the Koords,
called Koordistan, borders Armenia on the south, and
forms at present a part of the Turkish empire. The

THE KOOBDS AND KOOBDISTAK. 281

northern partis mountainous, and here the people live in
rude castles huilt upon cliffs and rocks. Here are a con-
siderable number of chiefs, who are almost independent
of all government. Some of these live quietly by
agriculture, but most of them are robbers. In the
southern part the country is more level, and the people
are more civilized, and more devoted to agriculture.

Besides those who live in fixed habitations, there are
large numbers of wandering Koords, who dwell in tents,
and remove with their horses, dromedaries, sheep, and
goats from place to place, as their needs may require.
Their tents are low, and hastily put together upon
piles ; the covering is of coarse black cloth, there
being a division inside, one part for the men and one
for the women. Around an encampment consisting of
several tents, and inclosing the flocks, is a fence made
of hurdles and reeds — that is, reeds woven together.
Horses, ready saddled, are tethered outside this enclo-
sure.

The people are great horsemen, and, like the Persians
and Tartars, have fine breeds of horses. They employ
the lance as a military weapon, and in the use of it are
very skilful. They are strict Mahometans, and dress
somewhat like Turks, though they wear a red conical
bonnet, instead of a turban, and shave or pluck out the
beard. A cloak of black goat-skin is in common use
for an outer garment. Our travelling companion was
thus attired, and therefore he had a very wild appear-
ance. I may add that these wandering Koords are
very much devoted to robbery, and often make ex-
tensive excursions, either on swift dromedaries or on
horseback, for the purpose of plunder. The whole
country as far as Damascus and Aleppo, with others at
a distance of one, two, and even three hundred miles

282 THE STOBY OF THE KOOBD.

off, is often ravaged by parties of these bold and hardy
freebooters. It is, however, a curious fact, that these
people do not seem to be greedy of money, and often
perform liberal acts. If a stranger comes among
them, they are hospitable ; and when he goes away,
they will sometimes make him rich presents. It is
necessary to add that the greater part of the wandering
Koords who are professed robbers live within the
territories of Persia, the .country called Koordistan
lying partly in that kingdom. After this preface, the
reader will appreciate the story of our Koordish pas-
senger, which was as foUoWs : —

" To the south of Armenia, and west of Koordistan,
lies the district of Biarbekir, the capital being a city of
the same name. Its ancient name was Anieda, and
being surrounded with a lofty wall of black stone, it is
called by the natives Black^Anied, It is situated on
the Tigris, and indeed is nearly encircled by that
river. Its houses are built of stone, and it is alto-
gether the most splendid city in that part of the
country.

" Now, many years ago, there lived in this place a
rich merchant by the name of Zamoun. In early life,
he had traded in various countries, especially with
China, and Hindostan, and Persia, and Bagdad, and
Damascus ; he had sent caravans loaded with precious
stones, jewels in silver and gold, shawls, and other
goods, from one place to another, even from China to
Astrakan, and from Astrakan to China ; and thus he
had amassed great wealth.

" Rich as he was, however, Zamoun was a hard man.
Whoever owed him money must pay, or go to prison.
Among others that became his victims was a chief of
koordistan, by the name o£ Boxox, He borrowed a

THE STOBT OF THE KOOBB. 283

large sum of money of Zamoun, promising to pay it at
a given time. Not being able to do tbis, the hard-
hearted merchant threw him into prison, took posses-
sion of his castle in Koordistan, and turned his family
out of doors. When some one remonstrated with him
for this severity, he replied that these Koords are
great rascals, that they never kept their engagements,
and it was rather a merit than a crime to shut them up
in prison whenever a chance was offered.

'' But although Zamoun was thus hard-hearted, and
seemed to love money above everything else, there
was, in fact, one thing which he loved still better, and
that was his daughter Peria. She was a beautiful
girl of sixteen years of age, and all that remained to
him of his family. But at last she was taken ill, and
gradually pined away, so that she could hardly stand.
Her father was greatly distressed, and sent for all the
most celebrated physicians of Diarbekir and the
vicinity. They shook their heads, and said that the
disease was very mysterious, and therefore they could
not venture to tell its name or predict its result. On
the whole, however, they had little reason to hope for
her recovery.

" While things were in this desperate state, Zamoun
heard of a young stranger who had just arrived in
Diarbekir, and who, it was said, was a famous physician.
He sent to him, and besought him to come and see his
daughter. The stranger came, and having examined
the patient, he remarked, *You love this child,
Zamoun ? '

" * Yes, above all things.'

" * Above your wealth ?'

" * Yes, I would cheerfully give all I possess to in-
sure her recovery.'

284 THS BTOBT OF THE KOOBD.

" * Well, her disease is severe, but not hopeless. If
you desire it, I will undertake her treatnaent. If I
fail, I will accept no fee ; if I succeed, you shall give
me all your possessions — ^lands, houses, merchandise,
and money. "What say you to my proposition ?'

" * It is most unreasonable : you would not ask me
to accede to it P Do not take advantage of my agony.
If you have skill, I beseech you to use it for the
restoration of my child.'

" * I will make you another proposition,' said the
physician. * K I save your daughter, I will take either
your fortune or her as my reward, but it shall be at
my option.'

" * Oh, have pity on me,' said the agonized father.
' WhUe we are chaffering as to the fee, my chHd is
dying. I accede to your proposition. Only save her,
and it is all I ask.'

" * But the contract must be in writing.'

" * Well, write it, and I will sign it.'

"The contract was accordingly written, and duly
executed. The physician then sat down by the patient,
and after a careful examination, he prescribed certain
remedies. For two days no change was perceived, but
at last she fell into a profound sleep, and after a time,
awoke much refreshed. The crisis was past, the danger
was over. In two weeks the young girl was completely
restored.

" The physician was now absent for a few days, but at
last he returned and went to the house of Zamoun.
The merchant trembled when he saw him, for he
supposed he had come to demand the fulfilment of the
contract. He would have kept him out of the house
bad he dared to do so. He thought it best, however,
to greet him civilly. Xccox^xi^^ ^ ^\«t ^Q>\xifc X^sk^^W

THE STOBY OF THE KOOBB. 285

tion, he went forward and gave the usual salutations.
He then said, * I suppose you have come for your fee :
there is a thousand crowns of silver, which you will
confess is a generous reward. I owe you much, and
you see I pay accordingly.'

" * You seem to forget the contract between us.'

" * No, I remember it, but that of course is a farce :
you cannot think of enforcing so absurd an agreement.'

" * Do you mean to deny its validity ?'

" * Of course I do.'

" * Well, we will see how it is.'

" The physician departed, and proceeded to the pacha
of the district. The case was stated to him, and the
decision was, that the contract was valid. Zamoun
was, therefore, commanded immediately to fulfil it.
Officers went with the physician to return this answer,
and to enforce the contract.

" The merchant saw there was no escape, and there-
fore he prepared to obey. He called upon the physician
to decide which he should claim, his fortune or his
child.

" * Your child !' was the reply.

" The old man fell upon his knees and begged the
physician rather to take his fortune. The heart of the
young man was touched : he took the contract in his
hands, tore it in pieces, and gave them to Zamoun.
With a mingled look of delight and amazement, the
old man took the fragments, and then asked —

" ' Is this a sudden act of madness, or is it your
deliberate intention ?'

" * It is my deliberate intention.'

" * And you thus release me from my engagement ?'

« ' I do.'

" * And you leave me my fortune aud my child ^'

286 THE STOBY OF THE E:00BD.

" ' I do.'

" * This is a miracle !• Who are you ?'

" * I belong to a people you despise.'

" * What do you mean ?'

" ' I am a Koord 1'

" * You have redeemed the race in my opinion ; such
an act as you have just performed could hardly have
been achieved even by a citizen of Diarbekir.'

" ' But you have not heard all.'

" * What more have you to say ?'

" * I am the son of Boroz !'

" The old man staggered : this was too much, and
a sudden paralysis seized him. The shock, however,
was slight, and soon passed away. He now confessed
that the physician had conquered him. He caused
Boroz to be immediately liberated from prison, and
offered to restore his castle ; he also pressed the phy-
sician to receive a large sum of money for his services.
Both the father and son, however, refused to accept
anything, and soon departed to their own country.

" Here they took possession of a small estate belong-
ing to them, but they had been there only two months
when a messenger came from Zamoun, saying that his
daughter was again at the point of death, and begging
the young physician immediately to come to Diarbekir,
and prescribe for her. With this request he complied.
On examining the patient, he was greatly puzzled, for
though she had symptoms of fever, he could discover
no cause for it. In a short time she was quite restored,
but just as the physician was about to depart, she had
a relapse.

" Zamoun was a shrewd man, and he now readily
divined the cause of his daughter's illness. Taking
the young physician aside, \ie md;

THE TTJECOMANS. 287

" * Have you discovered the seat of my daughter's
disease?'

" * It is in the region of the heart ; but I have not
discovered the cause.'

" * And have you divined the cure ?'
" * I am afraid not. My medicines have given tem-
porary relief, but, as you see, the symptoms have re-
turned.'

" * Will you allow me to prescribe for her ?'
" * You can do what you will with your own child.'
" * Then I prescribe you as her husband !'
" The physician did not object. As soon as Peria
was informed of the arrangement, she had a terrible
spasm, but she got over it, and in a week was so per-
fectly recovered as to go through the ceremony of
marriage."

CHAPTER XXXVII.

The Toroomans. — The Turcoman's Story.
The Koords are good story-tellers, and some of them
have a wonderful talent at making up poetry and tales
off-hand, and these they recite with great effect. Our
rough companion, on the present occasion, told his
story in such a way as to make it very interesting.

We now called upon the Turcoman for his story, and
so he began. But before I repeat what he said, I must
say a word about Turcomania, and the strange people
who inhabit it. It lies along the eastern shore of the
Caspian Sea, and extends to the Sea of Aral, on the
east. Southward it stretches in deserts of sand, inter-
sected by occasional patches of verdure, to the borders
of Persia. The people appear to be a mixed race,
descended from the Usbecks and other Tartar tribes,
yet they are of a very peculiar chas^o-W. ^\:vS5^ "sssk

288 THE TFECOMANS.

small in size, of a square build and swarthy complexion.
They live in rude tents, and some of them dwell in
caves. They manufacture a coarse camePs-hair cloth,
which, with goat and sheep-skins, serve for clothing.
Their tents are covered with a species of felt.

For the most part, they are wanderers from place
to place, though a portion of them have fixed habita-
tions, and raise a few melons, with some rice, cucum-
bers, &c. They are governed by chiefs, yet these have
no great authority. Small companies of these people
may be seen in all the surrounding countries, and
especially in Persia, Syria, and Asia Minor. These
resemble the gipsies, and wherever they go, they are
thieves and robbers on a small scale. In their own
country they are shepherds and horsemen, always
taking advantage of opportunities for plunder. The
caravans of traders and travellers, constantly crossing
the interior of Asia in every direction, have from time
immemorial furnished opportunities to the Arabs, the
Koords, and the Turcomans for plunder, and no doubt
have served to perpetuate the predatory habits of these
ruthless races. In former ages, the Turcomans at
several periods have been numerous, and have made
themselves formidable to the surrounding countries.
Northern Persia has been rendered desolate by their
ravages, and to this day it remains almost a waste,
where formerly there was a rich and thriving popula-
tion. At certain epochs they have established king-
doms which have risen to importance and power. Even
the Turkish dynasty originated with a body of Turco-
man soldiers. I will now give you the narrative of our
Turcoman fellow-passenger.

" Our Armenian friend has told us the story of his
iamily of seven sons, aX\ oi ^"Vvoxa. ^t^^^red in life by

THE TTTECOMA^'S STOBY. 289

observing a certain rule, that is, ' Do the hest you can^
and fray God to help you,* That may do for a
Christian, but it will not answer for a Mahometan. Our
doctrine is that all things are fore-ordained, and that
our own conduct cannot change the decision of fate.
My story will illustrate this principle,

" At the north-eastern comer of the Caspian Sea is
a large bay, called the Dead Gulf. Upon the shore of
this sheet of water, there once lived a man by the
name of Agour. He was very poor, and dwelt in a
cave with his family, consisting of a wife and two chil-
dren. These were twin boys, and were so much alike
that it was almost impossible to tell them apart. Even
their parents ofben mistook one for the other, and for
this reason their names were marked on their breasts
with a hot iron. One — ^the eldest — was called Kamil,
and the other Irak.

" When they were twenty years old, they said they
did not wish to live all their lifetime in a cave, culti-
vating a little patch of ground, and half starving, in
spite of their hard exertions. They chose rather to
go forth and seek their fortunes. So they departed
together.

" They joined a small band of Turcomans who were
going in search of plimder. These proceeded eastward,
and at length they reached the country of Khorassan.
While in the neighbourhood of the city of Meshed,
they came across a caravan ; this they attacked, and
secured a considerable booty. Among the spoils were
two beautiful young ladies ; and these being captured
by the twin brothers, fell to their share. One of the
ladies was fair, and the other was dark, and as both
brothers preferred the fair one, they could not agree a&
to the division. Accordingly ttiej ^e^ \q\» ^'ort ^^Soa

IS

290 THE ttjbcoman's stoet.

choice, and Kamil, the elder hrother, ohtained the one
he desired. It turned out that she was the daughter
of the Pacha of Meshed, and Kamil ohtained for her
ransom a thousand crowns. The hrunette was her
maid, and Irak received for her ransom only a hundred
crowns.

" After a variety of adventures, the brothers returned
to their country, Kamil having obtained a large sum
of money, and Irak only about a tenth part as much.
Leaving all this in the care of their father, they set out
with another band for a still more distant enterprise.
Passing around the southern point of the Caspian Sea,
they crossed the Persian territories, traversed Mesopo-
tamia, and at last came to Syria. On the desert which
spreads around the famous ruins of Palmyra, they met
a party of travellers, under the escort of a large body
of Arab soldiers. The Turcomans, being deceived as
to their number, immediately began the attack. A
furious battle followed, in which every Turcoman was
slain, except the twin brothers. Kamil was wounded,
taken captive, and carried to Damascus. He soon re-
covered, and was sold as a slave to a rich merchant.

" He was now employed in a flower garden, in which
situation he remained for several months, his chief duty
being to water the flowers. The garden was sur-
rounded by a high wall on every side, save one, which
was closed by the merchant's house. Here was a lat-
ticed window, out of which the merchant's wife and
daughter could look into the garden, though they
could not themselves be seen. But one day, perhaps
by accident, the lattice flew open, and Kamil saw,
sitting at the window, the most beautiful young lady
he had ever beheld. She immediately ran away, but
the next day the same ^Ami^\i^Y^^\i<^^^svd at last the

THE ttjecoman'b stoet. 291

lattice got such a trick that it flew open every day,
and just at the time that Kamil happened to be in the
garden.

" Well, Kamil plucked a beautiful moss-rose, and,
without being seen, by means of a pole he placed it on
the window. Afber a time the maiden came and took
it, and then she let fall, in reply, a small white rose.
An acquaintance thus began ended in mutual affec-
tion, and after a time Kamil and the young lady went
away together. They had plenty of means, for the girl
brought all her jewels; so they proceeded to Mecca,
where they were married. On their way back they saw
a small party of travellers beset by a band of Bedouin
Arabs. In a moment Kamil discovered that his father-
in-law was amongjthe travellers, and that he and his
party were on the point of being overwhelmed. Send-
ing off his wife and attendants to a distance, he
mounted a fleet horse, seized his scimetar, and dashed
into the midst of the flght. The Bedouins, amazed at
this sudden attack, and seeing two or three of their
number instantly fall beneath the blade of the stranger,
suddenly took to flight.

"Kamil now went to his father-in-law, who was
trampled in the sand, and a good deal bruised, though
not otherwise injured. When the old man had re-
covered his senses, Kamil made himself known. He
also brought his wife, who fell upon her knees before
her father, and begged his forgiveness. The old man
had suffered very much by the loss of his daughter, and
was now on a pOgrimage to Mecca, as well to expiate
the sins supposed to have brought such a calamity upon
him, as to ask advice of the seers of the Holy City
which might enable him to recover her. Now that he
foimd her in safety, and appaxe\i^A:5 \^Y^^^^S5yet ^'oassjk

Ml

292 THE tubcomak's stoby.

scolding, he forgave her, and took her hushand into
favour. Having completed their pilgrimage to Mecca,
they all returned to Damascus, where Kamil received
from his father-in-law a beautiful house and a great
deal of money, so that he was very rich, and with his
beautiful wife he was very prosperous.

" A number of years now passed away ; but at length
a war broke out between the different tribes of Syria.
Kamil was selected as one of the captams, and went
forth to the battle. In one of the conflicts he bore
down everything before him. His courage and his
energy attracted the attention and applause of all
around him. At last a horseman belonging to the
enemy singled him out, and made a furious attack
upon him. They fought for a long tyoie, their weapons
ringing with the blows aimed at each other. Finally,
Kamil*s horse having received a sabre cut in the throat
fell dead upon the field. Kamil fell, and was buried
beneath him. His enemy dismounted; but as he was
about to plunge his weapon in the heart of Kamil he
stumbled, and as he plunged forward Kamil's scimetar
passed through his bosom.

*^ As soon as Kamil could extricate himself from his
horse, he went to the relief of his fallen enemy. The
latter groaned as he looked upon him. Surprised at
this exclamation, Kamil gazed intently at the dying
soldier. * Is it possible that this is my brother P' said
he, * I thought he was slain in the battle near Pal-
myra; but surely this man greatly resembles him.*
He then opened his mantle, and upon his breast he saw
the name of Irak !

" Grreat was the grief of Kamil, for he almost felt

that he had killed his brother. He stooped down and

Jdssed the pallid \>roNV oi \i\vQ^Qi>i\ided man. The latter,

THB TimCOMAK's STOBY. 293

who had heen in a swoon, awoke, and looked on Kamil,
and said : —

" * Is this Paradise ?'

'^ ' It is not Paradise/ said Kamil, weeping to see the
mind of his brother thus wavering.

« ' Why, then,' swd Irak, * do I see Kamil ?'

" * We are both on earth, my brother, and both I
trust destined to live and be happy.'

" * No, no, there is no happiness for me. But I thought
you were killed at the battle of Palmyra ?'

" ^ No ; I was taken and carried into slavery. I am
now rich, and you shall come with me to Damascus,
where I will make you rich also.'

" * It is impossible ; ever since we parted I have been
the constant sport of misfortune. It cannot be. Fate
has so decreed. Ah, it is dark : it is death ! Farewell,
my brother.' "

This story was rather serious ; and, for a time, we
were all silent. The conversation, however, was soon
renewed, and we had several other tales, which shall be
related in another chapter.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

The Story of the Greek Priest.— The Monk of St. Basilius.— The
Tartar's Tale, or the Fatal Sace for a Bride.

I HOPE the reader is not tired of these stories, for they
seem to be illustrative, as before remarked, of the man-
ners and customs of the classes of persons of which the
narrators were in some degree the types. If the reader
is, however, of a different opinion, he can skip this
chapter, and go on to the pages which follow it. For
the benefit of others, I now give the tale related by our
fellow-voyager, the Greek Priest.

294 THE STOBY OF THE GBEEK PBIEST :

" There was, once upon a time," said the narrator —
taking his pipe from his mouth — " a monk, who came to
the monastery of Saint BasiHus, at Moscow, and de-
sired admittance. He was very much emaciated, and
seemed so weak as to be scarcely able to walk. He
was taken to a room, and everything required for his
comfort was provided for him. He, however, refused
to take food, and soon he sank into a sort of swoon
or lethargy, which seemed like death itself.

" In this state he remained for several days, until at
last it appeared that he was really dead. Accordingly
preparations were made to bury him; but just as they
were screwing down his coffin he rose up in his grave-
clothes, and looked around with a horrible stare. Every-
body was frightened, and ran away. Pretty soon the
monks, who looked upon what had happened as a ter-
rible apparition, saw a form moving along the avenue
which led to the chapel where they had assembled. It
was clad in a shroud, with a fillet aroimd its head,
giving to the ghastly countenance the very face of
Death. They all fell upon their knees, crossed them-
selves, and began to say the prayers appointed for the
casting out of evil spirits.

" Very few dared to look at the horrible spectre ; but
those who did, were thrilled with terror to see the
ghost walk up and down the chapel as if looking for
something. Finally it came to a smooth stone set in the
wall near the altar. Here it paused, and began to ex-
amine it. After a little space it touched a spring and the
stone flew round, presenting some inscription upon the
surface thus disclosed to the view. The ghost fell upon
its knees, and seemed to peruse this mystic writing with
profound interest. The chapel was dark, and only the
ii^ht of the tapers Wximiig «^\. Vci^ ^-wt fell upon the
stone; yet the appati\.\oii ^^^m^\»^\iw^T3ka^ciSiS2s^

THE MONK OF ST. BASILinS. 295

in maJdng out the purport of the inscription. Appa-
rently satisfied at what he had seen, he again touched
the spring ; the stone flew round, and all seemed as it
was before. The ghost then walked out of the chapel
and disappeared.

" The whole monastery was thrilled with horror at
this awful visitation. After a time, however, some of
the priests ventured to approach the room of the
strange father. On entering the place they found it
vacant. They went to the coffin, and the dead body
was no longer there !

" For a long time the story of this awful event was
the theme of wonder and discussion among the brother^
hood of Saint Basilius' monastery. A great many
attempts were made to unravel the mystery. The
general opinion was, that the apparition was the ghost
of some monk who had committed a great crime, and
who, having died without absolution, his spirit wan-
dered forth from the regions of torment to which it
was consigned. It was generally supposed that his
history was in some way connected with the stone in
the side of the chapel ; but, for a long time, no one
dared to approach the place. After some months,
however, it was determined to seek the mysterious
spring, and try to solve the mystery.

" It chanced to be just a year from the time on which
the ghost had visited the chapel, that the fathers had
all assembled to make their experiment. With beating
hearts and trembling hands, they approached, and
passed their fingers along the wall. One after another
they tried to discover the secret ; and, at last, one of
them chanced to press his thumb on a particular place,
when a sharp click was heard, and instantly the stone
flew roimd, just as it had done when touched b^ tJcsfe
^host. All the priests staxte^ an^ \o<^^^ vt^Nxe^^

296 THE STOBY OF THE GBEEK PBIEST :

What was their horror to see, coming down the aisle of
the chapel, the image of a man, hut so thin and ghastly
that it seemed only a spirit. They all fled in terror,
and lefb the unwelcome stranger alone. One monk
only dared to look through the screen of the organ to
see what happened.

"He saw the apparition approach the stone; the
latter, discovering that it was turned round, knelt, and
read the inscription, apparently with extreme interest.
When he had done, he seemed relieved, and, with a
noiseless tread, departed.

"This incident revived the previous wonder and
terror of the whole monastery. Again all sorts of
conjectures were formed as to its meaning, hut no one
could interpret the marvellous appearance and strange
demeanour of the ghost. At length a year had passed
away, and again a thin, emaciated friar hegged admis-
sion at the gate. He seemed like the holy father who
had appeared some two years hefore, and who had been
supposed to die in his room ; hut, if possible, he was
even more worn and wasted. His hair was white,
and his thin, snowy beard fell down to his girdle.
When he walked, no sound was made by his footstep ;
when he spoke, a whisper only issued irom his Hps.
His eye seemed but a transparent hall of glass, which,
however, reflected a single glowing ray of light.

" He was received, though a chill feeling of terror
ran through the monastery. He went to his room,
where he remained four days without food. At last he
seemed about to die, and a confessor was sent for. One
of the brethren came to him, and he said, in a faint
whisper : —

" * Are we alone ?'

" There was something so soft, yet so distinct in his

THI UOISK OE ST. BASTLIUS. 297

tone, that the holy confessor felt his heart grow cold,
and his hair rise on end. He was so disturbed, that
for a time he could not reply. At last he said —

" * Yes, brother, we are alone.'

" * And are you a monk of the order of Saint
Basilius P'

" ' I am.'

" * And have you been recently shriven, and have
you partaken of the Holy Eucharist, so that you have
fuU power to hear the confession of a great sinner, and
a dying man P'

" * I have, brother.'

" * And is what I am about to reveal to you under
the sacred seal of secrecy p'

'^ 'It is ; and you may speak as if addressing the
Ear of God.'

" * Alas ! it is a terrible revelation, but it must be
made, or I must die, and my imshriven soul must pass
into perdition. Let me proceed, then; but, brother,
put your ear close, for my voice is faint.'

"'Well, I can hear; proceed, therefore, with youp
confession.'

" * Not here, not here ; I must go to the chapel. It
is there alone I can tell my story.'

" At this the holy confessor felt a sense of terror seize
upon his limbs, and he was on the point of flying from
the presence of this mysterious stranger. He, however,
summoned up all his courage, and, assisting the fainting
friar to rise, led him to the chapel. The suflferer re-
quested to be conducted to a place at the left hand of
the altar, near the wall. When he reached this, he
was completely exhausted. After a time he was able
to rise on his knees, and, in this position, he proceeded,
in a faint tone, as follows : —

298 TH£ STOBT Or TH£ GBEEK PBIEST.

" ' Holy father, you see before you a wretch who
has committed sacrilege !'

" The confessor groaned, but he encouraged the peni-
tent to proceed.

" * My name,' said the trembling friar, ' is

J >>

Here the G-reek priest, who had told the storj with
great effect, and had wrought up the interest of his
listeners to the highest pitch, suddenly paused. We
all waited some moments in anxious suspense to hear
the horrible revelation. But the priest took out his
pipe, lighted it, and began very quietly to smoke. Several
of us then asked him to proceed, and finish his tale.

" It is finished !" said he.

" But, tell us the confession !" said one of the party.

" The secrets of the confessional are sacred," said the
priest.

'' But who was this man that had committed sacri-
lege, and what became of him ?"

" I have told you the story just as it was told
to me."

As the priest said this, there was a sly smile in the
comer of his mouth, and thereupon we all burst into
a laugh, acknowledging that it was a very clever quiz.

The reader will remember that all this time we were
on the deck of a little schooner, making our way slowly
to Astrabad. At sea, people catch at straws for amuse-
ment, and therefore it will be readily imderstood that
we all listened to the stories of the company, whether
they were good or bad. Each person was called upon
to tell a story ; and, when we had done laughing at the
horrible legend of the Ghost of Saint Basilius' Monas-
tery, it was the turn of a fierce-looking Tartar from the
banks of Lake Baikal, and he proceeded as follows: —

THE TABTA&'S TALE. 299

" As there are persons here from various countries,
I must tell them that among the Tartars of the Kirquiz
nation, it is the custom, when a man is about to marry,
for him and the bride to be moimted on horseback.
The bride then sets out, and goes to the distance of
about half a mile, when her lover starts to overtake
her. In general she rides fast, and even if she is willing
to be caught, she pretends to do all in her power to
escape. In point of fact our history records very few
instances in which ladies thus pursued have not been
overtaken."

" The reason is, perhaps," said one of the company,
" that they don't know how to ride."

" On the contrary," said the Tartar, " our women
are good riders, and many of them equal the other sex
in this accomplishment. Our people, of both sexes, are
trained to riding on horseback from infancy. If you
were to visit one of our encampments, you would see
children climbing upon the horses, and playing upon
their backs as you see monkeys sporting among the
branches of the trees.

" Well, once upon a time, near the borders of Lake
Baikal, there was a Tartar maiden of great beauty, who
was courted by at least a dozen lovers. Among them
were several persons of great wealth, and one who bore
the title of Khan. He was, in fact, the chief of a
considerable tribe who dwelt in the neighbourhood.
The lady seemed not to fancy any of these persons, but
at last a young man came to offer himself, who fairly
won her heart. He was a chief, but of a small tribe,
and destitute of riches. He was, indeed, brave, and a
famous horseman, but the father of the maiden wished
his daughter to make a more ambitious match.

" Thus affairs went on for some iam»^ imtil

800 THE tabtab's tale:

the maiden, weary of the importunity of her lovers and
the impatience of her father, proposed to mount a fleet
horse, and having a start of half a mile, her lovers might
pursue, and he who caught her first should have her.

"This arrangement was finally accepted by all
parties. The preparations for the chase were soon
made, and the tribes all around assembled to witness it.
The maiden, whose name was Maoki, which means the
Flying Deer, was mounted on a small black mare, of
the breed of Moimt Libanus, and celebrated for their
swiftness,

" The Khan whom I have mentioned as one of the
lovers, was moxtnted on a horse of iron grey, of prodi-
gious strength and vigorous action. When he moved
it seemed like the working of a machine of iron, 'ff\^
step was high, yet direct and far-reaching. All who
saw him, said in their hearts that his master would win
the prize. Maoki herself looked with dismay upon the
noble animal and his proud rider, for of all her suitors,
she liked him the least. Nay, there was something
about him so hard, dark, and severe, that she feared, if
she did not hate him.

" The other lovers were variously mounted, but all
had selected the most famous steeds known in the
whole country round for their speed and their endu-
rance. The young chief favored by Maoki, and who
bore the name of Larone, or the Whirlwind, came on a
milk-white charger, his eyes beaming with intelligence
and fire, while his dilating nostrils seemed like two
blazing coals, fanned by the wind. As he came up
Maoki smiled, though she seemed not to look at him.
As he passed near her, she said in a low tone, ' I shall
be the bride of death or the Whirlwind!' This met
no ear but his.

THE FATAL BACE FOB A BBIDE. 301

" The arrangements all being completed, Maoki set
forward, and soon reached the point fixed upon as
marking the advance she was to have in the race. At
the signal for a start, all the lovers bounded away like
the wind. The course taken by Maoki was over a
level plain stretching out for miles. Her fleet black
mare, with long silky mane and taU, laid herself down,
and seemed to fly with the wings of a raven. On came
the thundering band along her track, some piercing the
air with wHd cries, and some lashing their steeds with
the knout. Soon the whole chase was only to be seen
in the distance, and finally they all seemed on the
remote surface of the plain, like insects creeping along
the edge of the horizon.

" The spectators long watched the scene with intense
interest. At last there arose a wild shout, * They are
coming ! they are coming !' It was indeed true. Maoki
had made a wide sweep on the plain, and having eluded
her pursuers, was flying back, as if to take shelter at
the point of her departure. Swifb as a hawk she came,
her beast reeking with foam, and her nostrils seeming
to be on fire. Close at her heels was the E[han and his
iron charger. Next came the white steed of Larone,
springing and gathered with the facility and speed of a
moimtain deer. Then, straggling far behind, but yet
with desperate efforts, came the rest of the pursuers.

" Maoki approached the place of her departure, and
a cry of applause burst from the assembled spec-
tators; but all wondered what she intended to do.
Just as she came close to the crowd, she touched the
rein, and her horse shot by like an arrow. Two bounds
behind was the Khan, and close upon him was Larone.
It was a fine but fearful sight. The horses were gush-
ing with blood at the nostrils, and each. l»»ftilEk

802 THE tabtab's tale.

drew was like the plash of hail against the frozen cover
of a tent.

"Suddenly a cry of horror burst from the crowd.
Maoki was speeding directly toward the cliff that
beetled along the shore of the lake. She was already
on its verge. Another bound, and she and her horse
disappeared. They had gone over the cliff! In an
instant the Khan followed with his steed, and almost at
the same moment, Larone also was lost to the view.
The people hurried to the shore, and there they saw a
strong swimmer in the waters of the lake, mounted
upon his steed, and approaching the land. It was the
Khan, and he was soon safe on the shore, but all beside
had disappeared, and were never seen after that fatal
day."

CHAPTER XXXIX.

I engage in the Service of the Armenian Merchant. — My Outfit. —
Journey to Bagdad. — The ancient City of Hamadan. — Semiramis,
Alexander, Mordecai, Esther, Arphaxad. — Eerxnanshah. — Exca-
vations of Taki Bostan. — Bagdad. — Description of the Place. —
Government, Trade, Manners and Customs. — ^My Trading Ope-
rations. — Serious Illness, and Loss of my Beard. — Set out to re-
turn to Teheran. — The Simoon in the Desert. — B«markable
Events. — Arrival at Teheran. — Am dismissed by my Employer. —
An interesting Interview. — Strange Christianity. — A Bomance. —
All right at last. — Eetum to Sandy Plain.

In the course of my voyages and travels, to and from
the Caspian Sea, I had got very well acquainted with
the Armenian merchant, and he seemed to have formed
a pretty good opinion of me. At least I so inferred,
for he offered to engage me in his service as a trading
agent, and as I had nothing better to do, I accepted
his proposal.

My first expedition was to Bagdad, situated on the
Tigris, four hundred miles in a south-westerly direction

MT OUTFIT— CITY OF HAMADAK. 303

from Teheran. My equipage consisted of a dromedary,
or one-humped camel, loaded with raw silk, pipe sticks,
and dressed lamb skins. Altogether these weighed
two hxtndred pounds, and cost about seven hundred
dollars. I was expected to sell them for at least two
thousand.

In all respects I was equipped like a prince, with a
long loose coat, loose trousers, red morocco boots, and
a turban. My beard, now fourteen inches long, gave
me a venerable appearance. My height, one-third
greater than that of most of the Persians, rendered me
an object to be looked at in such a country as this.

No one who has goods with him ever travels alone in
this country ; so I joined one of the caravans, which con-
tained two hundred and thirty-seven camels, and a few
horses. Nearly all the persons belonging to it were
traders, though there were a few pilgrims bound for
Mecca. There were a Persian poet, or story-teller,
four jugglers from Hindostan, and a prince of Beloo-
chistan, with six attendants.

We followed the great route which connects Teheran
with Mesopotamia, and in five days reached Ramadan,
a distance of one hundred and ninety miles. We found
this place to contain about thirty thousand inhabitants.
It covers a large space, the houses being interspersed
with a great many trees. It has a mean appearance,
and is, indeed, only important as a stopping place and
rendezvous on a great trading thoroughfare. To a his-
torian, it is exceedingly interesting, for here was the
city of Ecbatana, capital of the Median empire, and
built two thouand years before Christ. The immense
ruins of walls and buildings, scattered here and there,
fully support the ancient accounts of its magnificence. ^ ^^

Now I need not tell the reader that I am a mttajriHl

804 SEMIBAMIS — ^iXEXAimSB — ATIPHATAT>.

no leaming. My school education was pretty much
confined to reading, writing, and arithmetic, and a little
history which I learnt from the Bible and the School
Histories ; but I have the curiosity natural to a Yankee,
and the lively interest in everything that bears the
marks of antiquity common to Americans. The people
of old countries, bom and brought up in the midst of
ruins, even though these may be associated with the
deeds of Alexander, or Nebuchadnezzar, or Pharaoh, or
Moses, or some other great character, regard them only
as common stones : but we of the United States, to
whom antiquity is a novelty, look upon these things
with a curiosity amounting almost to reverence. When
I found out that Semiramis had been here ; when they
showed me a building, which, by its inscription, claimed
to be the tomb of Mordecai, and another that of Esther ;
when I saw a heap of ruins, said to be the sepulchres
of the Median kings, and among them, Arphaxad of
the Scriptures ; when I learned that the place had been
besieged and taken by Nebuchadnezzar ; all my Ame-
rican readers will readily understand that, simple and
common as was my early education, I felt a profound
interest in wandering about, and looking at the vestiges
of this curious city.

Hamadan may, indeed, be regarded as one of the
most wonderful places in the world, on account of its
antiquity and its history. It is, perhaps, as ancient as
Babylon or Nineveh. Like them, it has been the capital
of many successive empires and kingdoms ; like them,
it has been often besieged, taken, and destroyed ; but,
unlike them, it has always arisen from its ruins. While
Babylon and Nineveh have been buried and almost
forgotten for more than a thousand years, Hamadan
has existed, and even m mod&xiL 'iaxnes has been sue-

SXOAYATIOKS OE TAKI BOSTAN* 805

cessively conquered by Otbman, Zinghis, Timour, Hus-
sein, Ahmed, and Nadir Shah. Where is there another
city, that for four thousand years, is known to have
been the favourite residence of kings ? The history of
this place reaches back to early Bible times, and coming
down to the present day, would fill a volume, present-
ing, perhaps, a more extraordinary gallery of portraits
than was ever before collected into one picture.

However interesting it might have been to have
pored over the ruins of Hamadan, I stayed there only
two days. Our caravan then took up its line of march,
and soon reached Kermanshah, which is a place of some
note, having thirty thousand inhabitants. It is the
capital of a province, and the beglerbeg, or governor,
is a Persian prince. Six miles to the east are the cele-
brated excavations and sculptures of Taki Bostan. Here,
an arch sixty feet high, twenty feet deep, and twenty-
four feet wide, is cut in the solid rock. Above and
around are gigantic figures, carved on the face of the
rock, and executed in an admirable manner. These
stupendous works are imputed to Semiramis. Is it not a
strange country, where one is constantly meeting with
works executed by those who lived three or four thou-
sand years ago P

We found this place in a thriving condition, and, in
that respect, different from most other cities of Persia,
for nearly all are on the sites of ancient towns which
have decayed, leaving behind their ghastly ruins, to
show the contrast between former prosperity and pre-
sent degradation. We remained here, however, but a
single day, to rest our beasts. In four days after leav-
ing Kermanshah, we reached Bagdad — our whole jour-
ney of nearly four hundred miles haviog been porfonned
in about fifteen days. . >

806 • DESCBIPTION OF BAGDAD.

Everybody has heard of Bagdad, the capital of the
Saracen caliphs, or emperors, and the residence of
Haroun al Raschid, who figures so largely in the
amusing stories of the Arabian Nights ; but everybody
has not seen it, or even read about it, as it now is. I
must, therefore, give a brief account of it.

It stands on both sides of the river Tigris — ^the
greater part of the city being on the eastern bank.
The stream is crossed by a bridge of planks, resting
on boats, anchored side by side. The width of the
river is about two hundred yards. It is an insig-
nificant looking stream for one so famous — ^for it
must be remembered that it has been renowned
from the days when Nineveh began to rise along its
borders.

The city is now a miserable skeleton of what it was
a thousand years ago, iu the time of the splendid
caliphs Haroun, Almamoim, and others. Its popula-
tion does not exceed seventy or eighty thousand ; the
wall which encompasses it is five miles in circuit. This
is of mud and brick, and at intervals is flanked vrith
towers : some of them, built by the caliphs, are of sur-
prismg magnitude.

Most of the streets are dark and narrow. In many
of them two persons can hardly pass each other. There
are several bazaars, which are very extensive, and sup-
plied with a great variety of merchandise, but they are
all destitute of beauty. Few of the ancient buildings
remain, yet there are enough to show the magnificence
of the place in the time of its glory. The palace of
the caliphs, so superb that one can hardly conceive its
beauty and splendour, has totally disappeared. Among
the existing relics of former glory, is the tomb of Zo-
beida, the most belo^eA. oi ^^^ .-^ivi^ of Haroun al

DESCEIPTIOlSr OF BAaBAD. 307

Raschid, with the gate of the Talisman — both exqui-
site specimens of Saracenic skill and taste.

Bagdad is in what is generally called Koordistan,
the site of the ancient empire of Assyria. To the west
of it lies Mesopotamia, the ancient Babylonia or Chal*
dea. These two countries, lying between the Koordis-
tan mountains on the east, and the desert of Arabia
on the west, comprise a territory of one hundred thou-
sand square miles — and one of the finest valleys in the
world. Here the first families after the flood began to
swell into nations. Here were Babel, and Babylon,
and Nineveh, and here are their remains, buried beneath
heaps of soil, having been hidden from the eye of man
for ages. There is not on the globe, perhaps, a finer
region. Here, no doubt, was the garden of Eden —
and here, we know, was the great nursery of mankind
in the infant days of our race. It was, no doubt,
chosen by the Creator, on account of its fertility, as
the place where the human family should multiply and
increase, and replenish the earth. And what is it now ?
" The mighty cities of Babylon, and Nineveh, and Se-
leucia, and Ctesiphon; have crumbled into dust. The
humble tent of the Arab occupies the spot formerly
adorned with the palaces of kings, and his flocks pro-
cure but a scanty pittance of food amid the fallen frag-
ments of ancient magnificence. The banks of the Eu-
phrates and the Tigris, once so prolific, are, for the
most part, covered with thickets of brushwood ; and
the interior of the province, which was traversed and
fertilized by innumerable canals, is destitute of either
inhabitants or vegetation."

The chief cause of all this degradation is the govern-
ment, for this fine region, like Asia Minor, Syria, and
other countries renowned in li\fttoT^,^T!A\JL««?ifc^\s'^ J

x2l ■

308 GOTBENMBNT — TSADE.

nature, has long been subject to the crushing sway of
Turkey. "No grass grows beneath the hoof of the
Sultan's horse," is a proverb the truth of which is
written wherever the mosque and the harem are known.
Nothing is more certain than that the Turks are a
degenerate race, incapable of improvement themselves,
and always debasing those who have the misfortune
to fall under their dominion. Even Bagdad, which, in
the first flush of Saracen glory, attained an almost im-
exampled pitch of splendour, refinement, and civiliza-
tion, has gradually sunk lower and lower under the
Turkish government. Degradation, physical and moral,
is written in the very faces of the population — for never,
anywhere on earth, have I seen so ugly a people — at
once so mean in aspect and expression.

Although the trade of Bagdad has declined, and is
BtiU declining, the bazaars present scenes of consider-
able activity. Crowds of camels are seen in the
squares, and along the stalls, for merchandise. There
are dealers from Persia, Hindostan, Tartary, Arabia,
Armenia, Const^tinople, and various parts of Syria.
Gold brocade, rich silks, sumptuous carpets, and magni«
ticent shawls, are displayed among spices of all kinds,
gall-nuts, sug?Lr, pepper, sandal-wood, cutlery, leather,
otto of roses, safiron, velvets, and tamarisk. The scene
presented is picturesque, for although there is a certain
uniformity in the general outline of Asiatic costumes,
there is still a good deal of contrast and variety of
form and colour in the details of the dress, among
these traders gathered from the four winds.

The air and manner of the merchants differ in a
singular degree from those of our Christian cities. In-
stead of the brisk, acquisitive, eager conduct of our
traders, these AB^aticft \i^N^ iiH the gravity, quiet, and

ILL10:SS, AND LOSS 07 MY BEABD. 309

submissiveness of a Chinese idol. The shops, or stalls,
are ranged in rows. In one of them a dealer in silks,
for instance, seats himself upon a cushion, with his
legs under him. To aid his digestion, and to pass the
time, he perhaps solaces himself with a pipe, in which
he either smokes tobacco or opium. If any one comes
to look at his goods, he merely replies to questions ; he
probably does not stir from his seat. He seems sub-
limely indifferent as to whether his wares be purchased
or not. A question and an answer are usually sufficient
for the longest bargain. There is but one price, and
of course there is no chaffering.

I adopted the same plan as the rest. I hired a small
stall, put a sample of my silk, pipe sticks, and lamb skins
in the window, and squatted upon my cushion. Like a
patient fisherman I waited three days, with only here
and there a nibble : the fourth I had a strong bite, sold
my whole stock, and prepared to set out on my journey
back to Teheran. But again ill luck befell me in the
midst of my seeming prosperity. It was now the fruit
season, and tempted by the delicious melons which
abound in the markets of Bagdad, I ate too freely of
these, and was consequently seized with dysentery^
which brought me to the very gates of death. I had
lost all consciousness, and, as a last remedy, the physi«
cian caused my beard to be cut off, and my head to be
shaved. These means, with others, had a beneficial
effect, and after a short time I began to mend. In
three weeks I was so far recovered as to set out for
Teheran, making one in a small caravan of traders.

I had gone about half the journey, when I saw a
sudden agitation in the caravan. The people leaped to
the ground, and fell with their faces to the earth. The
camels kneeled and thrust their nosieia c&smm^

810 BEMABKABLE ETENTS.

ground. I asked for explanation, and the man of
whom I inquired pointed across the plain before us. I
then saw a cloud of sand, agitated like boiling water.
It came rolling towards us with a sound similar to
that of a heavy fall of rain. Before I could leap
from my camel, I was smitten with a burning wind,
which took away my breath, and I fell senseless to
the earth,

How long I remained in this situation, I can hardly
tell. At length, however, I recovered my senses, and
began to look around me. My dromedary was stand-
ing at a Httle distance, but, with this exception, the
whole caravan seemed to have disappeared. As I pro-
ceeded toward my beast, I discovered a heap of sand,
gathered by the tempest which had just swept by —
and sticking out of it, I noticed the comer of a robe,
richly embroidered. I laid hold of it, and soon dis-
covered beneath the heap of earth the body of a man
— one of the traders of the caravan, whom I had fre-
quently noticed on our journey. Putting my hand on
his chest, I perceived that he still breathed. I raised
him up, and after a few moments his eyes opened. He
looked around. At first he took me for a robber, but
soon discovering his mistake, he made signs for me to
stoop down and listen.

Putting my ear close to his lips, I heard a few
whispered sentences, but in a language totally unknown
to me. Seeming to suppose I understood him, how-
ever, the poor man put his trembling hand into his
robe, and drew forth a parcel, which he gave to me.
He then, with great effort, took a ring from his finger
and gave it to me. After this he was completely ex-
hausted, and uttering a faint moan he fell back in my
arms — his eyes fox ei\er closed in death. I buri^

AK DISMISSED BT MY EMPLOTEB. 311

him mournfully in the sand, mounted my camel, and
two days after joined the caravan.

Immediately on arriving at Teheran I proceeded to my
employer, who however received me with a look of asto-
nishment. I easily guessed the reason, for I had been
shorn like Samson, and the change in my appearance,
through the loss of a beard more than a foot long, was
no doubt very striking. I gave an accotmt of my
stewardship, and paid over the proceeds of my enter-
prise. The merchant took the money, and counting
out my portion, which amounted to three hundred and
seventy dollars, wrote mutual receipts, and we signed-
them. He then said —

"Well, sir, you have discharged yom* commission
with success and fidelity. Farewell !"

"But,*' said I, "this is strange conduct on your
: you engaged me for several expeditions, provided

was successful."

" Yes, but circumstances have changed : you have
lost your chief merit."

"Indeed, and what was that ?"

"Your beard.''

" You are joking."

" Not at all : I never stoop to a joke. I look upon a
beard as indispensable to a man who is to live by ex-
ercising influence over other men."

"How so?"

" A beard is a mask to the mind. It hides what a
man thinks, feels, intends, purposes. Strip off the mask,
and the whole soul is laid open by the revelations of
the playing muscles — ^the tell-tale ebbing and flowing
of the blood within the veins. A man without a beard
is a woman, whose very thoughts are written in the
face. I want not women in my Mnrioe^ fiic iEdskfo\&x^^\^

T[ wa

812 xs iKTEBESTnra utteetisw.

woman's work. If you would thrive, conceal your own,
while you dive into the thoughts of others. The
great art of Hfe, indeed, in commerce with mankind,
whatever may be our vocation, is to wear a mask, and
God has given it to man in the shape of a beard. He
who takes it off is a fool."

Saying this the Armenian turned on his heel, and I
was left alone.

"Well!" thought I, "this is a very odd world of
ours. However, there's no use in kicking against the
pricks." So I went to my quarters, and began to con-
sider my ways. While I was meditating upon the
past, the present, and the future, I suddenly recollected
the parcel which had been given me by the poor man
who died in the desert. I looked it over and over, and
tried to interpret the inscription. It was a small thin
packet tied with a silken thread, the outer envelope
being of parchment. I opened it, and found live strips
of thin bluish paper, written over with the same mys-
terious characters as those on the covering. Then I
recollected the ring which I had thrust into a side
pocket, and taking it out I carefully examined it. It
was of plain gold on the outside, but on looking within
the circle, here again I found an inscription in the
same characters as those in the packet.

After considerable reflection, I concluded to go back
and take counsel of the Armenian. He refused to see
me at first ; when he was informed that I had impor-
tant business with him, he received me. I proceeded
at once to tell him the story of the stranger, and the
commission he had confided to me. As I went on, I
perceived, even through the mask of the Armenian's
beard, that he was profoimdly interested ; bearing how-
ever a stoical ind-VSexen^^e o£ dftme^xLOur^ he asked several
questions, and ftnaWy iec^^^\«^ xaft \i5i ^orw \asa. *<Saa

AS nrrsBESTiKG nrrEBYiEW. 313

parcel and the ring. I took them out, and let him read
the inscriptions, though I carefully kept possession of
both.

With a keen and stealthy lifbing of the eyebrows, the
merchant perused my features. He then said :

" You have asked my advice : will you follow it, if I
give it to you ?"

" If it suits me, yes."

" Tell me one thing : do you confide in me ?"

'^ As a sharp merchant, certainly. But you have a
beard and I have none. We do not stand on an equal
footing ; you are masked. Now, you will excuse me
for being upon my guard."

** The loss of his hair was the ruin of the strongest of
men : the loss of yours seems to have quickened your
wits. I see that I must deal with you as a man, not as
a woman. Give me those papers and that ring, and I
will reward you with a himdred piasters."

"No, no — not for a hundred thousand will I give
them up, till I know what they are, and whose they are."

" They belong to me: they are mine !"

" Not quite." And as I said this I gave the Arme-
nian a keen look, put the articles in my pocket, and
turned toward the door. He followed me.

" Come, come," said he, in a wheedling way, " let us
take counsel together. Walk into my cabinet, and we
will consider the matter."

** No, you've too much beard for me !"

As I said this, the Armenian put his fingers to the
back of his head, and suddenly his entire beard fell off,
showing a chin shaven as smooth as the back of mj
band.

" You are a conjuror," said I.

** Will you treat with me, now ?" said bft.

^^LesB than ever. I liad {omie^ Oi ^ocA oy^^^ssg^.

814 STEAKGE CHEISTIAITITT.

you, from your story of Luke Q-ozzo and his seven sons.
You told me that you had all made your fortunes by fol-
lowing your mother's maxim : Do the best you can, and
trust God for the rest. It now seems that you are
only a cunning, crafty, deceitful old rascal.'*

" Cunning, crafty, deceitful, I admit. These qualities
are, indeed, my boast. It is by using these gifts that
I do the best I can : it is in using these gifts which
God has given me, that I put my trust in him."

" And do you speak this sincerely or in mockery ?"

" In perfect sincerity."

" Does your idea of right and wrong tolerate this life
of deception and fraud ?"

" Certainly ; my morals, my religion, inculcate these
things."

" Then you are a Turk !"

" No ; I am a Christian !"

" Whew ! Is it possible that Christianity can mean
Such different things in different latitudes and longi-
tudes?"

" I am no philosopher; I care not for creeds ; I am
simply an Armenian merchant, whose doctrine is, always
to do the best he can. Now, I have dealt openly with
you; will you deal openly with me ?"

" You have only told me half 'your story," said I.
" Tell me what interest have you in this ring — ^in these
papers !"

" I will tell you frankly. When I was young, I bor-
rowed a thousand piasters of a Jew, in Damascus,
agreeing to double the amount every year till the
whole was paid. I signed those papers, and gave that
ring, both in the secret cipher of our trade, so as to
avoid the penalty of the law; for such usury was
punished with deatik. Etom that day, I have never

Jl bomakce. 81^

been able to find my creditor. It is now thirteen
years, and the debt, according to the terms of my bond,
would amount to over four millions of piasters."

" This is a strange story ; how can you prove it to
be true ?"

" Here is the evidence;" and the merchant showed
me copies of letters, to and from his brother at
Damascus, relating to this matter, and clearly proving
it to be as he said.

" Well ; so far I am satisfied. But of course you do
not hold yourself bound to pay such an absurd debt ?"

"Certainly; to the utmost farthing, if I have so
much in £he world."

" But I thought you said it was your maxim to use
craft and deception when you had a chance ?"

" Yes, in the way of trade ; but a debt is binding for
ever."

" But this debt is against the law ; you can set it
aside?"

" A debt is sacred with an Armenian merchant ;
nothing but the bond itself can redeem it."

" And so you desire to possess yourself of these obli-
gations ?"

" You understand me perfectly."

" Well, you can afford to pay something for them."

"Certainly."

"How much?"

" Five thousand piasters !"

" Say ten thousand."

" Well ; here is the money."

The Armenian here handed me out ten little bags
full of gold. I hesitated ; for, afber all, I was not quite
sure that I was doing right. Several questions
to rise in my own mind. I, ho^^^^.

»

816 ALL BIQHT AT LAST.

parcel and tlie ring to the merchant, and, takmg up
the gold, was about to depart. The Armenian was
absorbed in looking over the notes, when suddenly he
started.

" Stay," said he : "here is a fatal mistake !"

"What is it?" said I.

" Why, all these notes are cancelled : here it is so
written on the face of each ! This has been done by the
Jew, and he was coming to deliver them to me himself."

" I am glad of it," said I ; " it's a very pretty ro-
mance all round. Here, take back your money. I
had some doubts about receiving it; my conscience
is lighter now."

The Armenian looked at me steadily. A variety of
thoughts seemed to pass across his mind. At last,
he said : —

" No ! keep it — ^it is yours !"

"As a gift?"

" No : as payment of a debt. You have taught me
a lesson of rectitude which is worth ten thousand
piasters. Take the money, and farewell !"

Having said this, the Armenian lefb the room, and I
saw him no more.

This is the end of the adventures of Gilbert Go-
ahead, as given to the public by himself. It is under-
stood that, soon afber the events related in the last
chapter, he returned to Sandy Plain, where he was wel-
comed by his friends, and where he was looked up to
by the people generally, and the children in particular,
as a great traveller.

Petee Pabley.

f